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Region » Asia » Iran

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Ladies on the Persia Trail
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the-journeys
Beyond
Politics, discover Civilisation   

Ladies on the Persia Trail

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page” - Saint Augustine

 

The Middle East is a grand epic, a cradle of civilisations & a beautiful, complicated land that is home to some of the planet's most hospitable people. From the gravitas of the Sahara to the blue tiles of Isfahan, this is a region for discerning travellers, for those looking for the story behind the headline & where the bridges between ancient & modern civilisations are everywhere evident. Quite simply extraordinary, one of the world's most fascinating & rewarding travel destinations.

 

The word is out: as far as off-the-beaten-path destinations go & if you fancy travelling somewhere neither East nor West, and exotic & fascinating yet perfectly comfortable then, Iran might just be the most rewarding destination on Earth. More than ever, intrepid travellers are making their way to the Islamic Republic of Iran and there’s little wonder why. Come……experience Persia with us& prepare to be charmed…

 

In the Middle East, history is not something you read about in books. It was here that some of the most significant civilisations of antiquity rose & fell.  Here, it is a story written on the stones that litter the region, from the flagstones of old Roman roads to the building blocks of ancient Egypt & the delicately carved tombs & temples from Petra to Persepolis. This is where humankind first built cities & learned to write and it was from here that 3 great monotheistic religions Judaism, Christianity & Islam all arose.

 

Left behind is an astonishing open-air Museum of ancient cities & historic buildings, the stones of which still resonate with the sounds of the faithful. The ruins of the once similarly epic cities of history - Petra, Persepolis, Ephesus, Palmyra, Baalbek, Leptis Magna & the bounty of ancient Egypt, also mark the passage of centuries in a region where the ancient world lives & breathes. Wherever you find yourself, the past is always present because here, perhaps more than anywhere else on earth, history is the heart & soul of the land.

 

The Middle East is quite simply extraordinary, one of the world's most fascinating & rewarding travel destinations. Its cities read like a roll-call of historical heavyweights: Jerusalem, Beirut, Cairo, İstanbul, Isfahan, Damascus & Baghdad. Aside from ranking among the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, these ancient-modern metropolises are places to take the pulse of a region. It is here too, that you find the stirring, aspirational architecture that so distinguishes the 3 faiths.

 

Above all else, however, your most enduring memory of the Middle East is likely to be its people. At some point on your visit here, you will be sitting alongside the more secular charms of bazaars & coffee shops or looking lost in a labyrinth of narrow lanes embodying all the mystery & storytelling magic of a land that gave us The Thousand & One Nights, when someone will strike up a conversation & within minutes, invite you home to meet their family & share a meal. Or someone will simply approach & say with unmistakable warmth, ‘Welcome’. Their gracious welcome, many kindnesses & boundless hospitality speak of an altogether more civilised age. These spontaneous, disarming & utterly genuine words of welcome can occur anywhere across the region. And when they do, they can suddenly (& forever) change the way you see the Middle East.

 

Let us talk about the Islamic Republic Iran now & leave your preconceptions at home. If you believe what the media tells you & decide not to visit, you would be missing out on the journey of a lifetime.

.Ancient Civilisation | Beauty of Islam | Redefining Hospitality

A journey to Iran is a chance to peel away the layers of a country with a serious image problem. Conservative & unconventional, deeply religious & deeply surprising, the Iran experience doesn’t fit into any easy pigeonhole. Beyond the stereotypes you will discover a country desperate to be seen for what it is, rather than what it is perceived to be. Whether you are travelling in cities like Isfahan or Tabriz, in the Zagros Mountains of   central Iran or the deserts around Kerman, the real Iran will be revealed.

 

Little understood & seldom visited by Western tourists, Iran can seem opaque & enigmatic. Many preconceptions are based on its confusion with the Arab world, a fact lost on many in the West & a mistake many in Iran, with its over 2,500 years of Persian history, would probably take issue with.

 

An essential stop on the Silk Road, the Persian Empire stretched from Greece to India & brought its famously tolerant culture - including early medicine - to a world mired in comparative medieval backwardness. Today's Iran is still a place of bustling bazaars, glorious architecture & mountain villages with a young, friendly & open population. As long as you are not too attached to that glass of wine (curiously, Shiraz was invented here), a visit will take you beyond the rhetoric into one of the world's truly great cultures.

 

If you are drawn to places where echoes of ancient civilisations resonate down through the ages, Iran could be your thing. Some of history's biggest names - Cyrus & Darius, Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan - all left their mark here & the cities they conquered or over which they ruled are among the finest in a region rich with such storied ruins.

 

Formerly known as Persia, Iran illustrates its strength of spirit & unique historical & natural delights. Littered with a diverse, eye-catching array of ancient temples & artworks, mosques, fortresses & striking monuments, each of which reflects its own intriguing history. With a warm, but not overbearing climate, you can bask in the sunshine & take in the multitude of different atmospheres this country has to offer.

 

Iran is a treasure house for some of the most beautiful architecture on the planet. Seemingly at every turn, Islam's historical commitment to aesthetic beauty & exquisite architecture reigns supreme. The sublime, turquoise-tiled domes & minarets of Isfahan’s Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square gets so many appreciative gasps of wonder, and rightly so, but there are utterly magnificent rivals elsewhere, in Yazd & Shiraz among others. And it is not just the mosques - the palaces (especially in Tehran), gardens (everywhere, but Kashan really shines) & artfully conceived bridges & other public buildings all lend grace & beauty to cities across the country.

 

And before you come to Iran, you might be thinking the main reasons to visit the Islamic Republic are because it is a bit adventurous & there is a lot to see from the years when Persia was a great world power. At some levels you would be right. Culturally & historically linked to Central Asia, Iran is full of incredible highlights

 

Iran's greatest attraction could just be its people. The Iranians, a nation made up of numerous ethnic groups and influenced over thousands of years by Greek, Arab, Turkic & Mongol occupiers, are endlessly welcoming. Offers to sit down for tea will be an everyday occurrence & if you spend any time at all with Iranians, you will often find yourself invited to share a meal in someone's home. Say yes whenever you can & through it, experience first-hand, Iranian culture, ancient, sophisticated & warm. It is these experiences that will live longest in the memory.

 

For those who have grown up on an endless diet of images depicting Iran as a dark, dangerous place full of fundamentalist fanatics, discovering the real Iran is the most wonderful surprise. Before long you are asking yourself: how can somewhere supposedly depicted as so bad be so good? Sure, not every Iranian you meet is going to invite you around to dinner.

 

Walking around beautiful, romantic & hospitable Shirazthe sublime, turquoise-tiled domes & minarets of Isfahan’s Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square, the awesome power & beauty of the Achaemenid’s ancient capital at Persepolis, the mud-brick alleys & rooftops in Yazd & the wonderfully immense Elamite ziggurat at Choqa Zanbil will put you in the footsteps of some of history’s most outstanding figures & will carry you all the way back to the glory days of Ancient Persia. And certainly, you won’t find yourself crowded out of any sights.

 

Authentic Iranian culture & tradition is kept alive in the many scenic local villages & the city bazaars. And hikers are spoilt for choice with Iran`s stunning mountains, valleys & the Middle East`s highest peak, Mount Damavand. History lovers can soak in the legends of ancient temples & imposing fortresses, dating from early civilisations such as the Safavids & the Sassasians. Art enthusiasts can admire the innovative mosque designs & ancient mountain relief paintings.

 

If you make your travel decisions based on what your friends & family say, you will probably never make it to Iran. This is a country whose politics are impossible to escape. Independent travel is easy &, through the people you meet, rewarding & sometimes sobering. A journey to Iran will change the way you see this part of the world.

 

This trip for the cultural aficionados will help in dispelling the media-driven myths & helping you to discover the ‘real’ Iran. You would have the opportunity for an in-depth discovery of an ancient & scientifically evolved Civilization that dates back to antiquity & features so many artistic treasures. History within history is probably the best way to describe this journey.

 

This 15 day female-only, female-led Journey is one of our more interesting offerings in the region, especially among our travellers who crave an in-depth travel experience well off the beaten path, to an exotic destination, as yet unspoiled by mass tourism. Meet Iran's women, find out who they are & learn about their customs, food, challenges, lives, through a range of experiences. You will truly find the warmth & hospitality of the Iranian people endearing and the profound beauty of the land mesmerising.

 

Unknown, mysterious & misunderstood. The highlights, together with the atmospheric Teahouses, bustling Bazaars, Deserts punctuated by historic Oases & rugged mountain ranges, gives Iran more than its fair share of fantastic places to see. But to think of Iran only in terms of ‘sights’ is to miss the real story.

 

Travel through this fascinating country to discover refined Islamic cities, colorful Bazaars, ancient Persian ruins & shimmering Deserts.

 

Most Westerners have a preconceived idea on the appearance of Iranian women; however, once you arrive, you will notice a diverse range of clothing, facial coverings & styles on display. Although gender segregation is not typically an Iranian trait, strict dress codes imposed by Islamic Law (boundaries on the ideas of acceptable women’s dress are continually being tested & gradually accepted by the Clerics) have meant many places & ways of life have become segregated by default. Though, you will find courting couples mingling freely in Cafes, uptown Malls, Universities & other forums.

 

It is hard to reconcile the reality with what you have heard so much about on the news, with a place where savvy iPhone-toting locals carve up the Alborz piste, old women invite you in for a hot Chelow kebab,  University & the Arty crowd behaving exactly the same as we do at home,  Tinder (discretely) dominates the dating scene, fashionably dressed females driving around, some in fancy cars, smart female Entrepreneurs running successful businesses, small & big & female Politicians playing their part in the evolution.

 

You might have heard many things about women’s lives in Iran on the media. However, have you ever wondered what their stories are beyond the cliche image created by folks with ulterior motives? How far off is that image from the mainstream portrayal of them? This experience will expose you to a range of fascinating local women; young, old, religious, conservative, rural, modern, liberal, radical.

 

Step inside the hidden world of a ‘Ladies’ only Beauty Salon, wander through a ‘female’ only Park & you may also travel by public transport in the ‘female’ only carriage of the Metro (if possible & at the discretion of the Tour-guide). You will also have opportunities to observe & even participate with the Artisans creating handicrafts which have always been a part of the ancient Persian heritage (the Government has introduced support systems to preserve the Arts & Crafts & Artisans even though industrialisation & automation are playing a role in the evolution).

 

Imagine yourself in an Iranian home, preparing authentic Persian cuisine, alongside the lady of the house, recipes she may have learned from her grandmother & not just a Cook Book. And then, enjoying the labour of love (homemade food, as in every country, tastes vastly different than the restaurant offerings) as you interact & chat with the family, gaining more insights about a regular family’s daily routine, triumphs & tribulations, just like we do at home. You will discover more about the culture than one can soak just by visiting the ‘touristic’ areas & will certainly come back with a fresh perspective than the one we have grown up with.

 

And the word is out: as far as off-the-beaten-path destinations go & if you fancy travelling somewhere neither East nor West and exotic & fascinating yet perfectly comfortable then, Iran might just be the most rewarding destination on Earth. A unique experience is just the beginning. A warm welcome, historical secrets & an artistic paradise awaits you. More than ever, intrepid travellers are making their way to the Islamic Republic of Iran and there’s little wonder why. The Journeys is ready to take you on well, a journey (or journeys) of discovery. Come……experience Persia with us& prepare to be charmed….

 

Come…be inspired & discover the World

 

Ladies on the Persia Trail

Day | Date

City

Transfers | Sightseeing

October 2024

 

01 | 14   |  M

Tehran

vArrival Transfer  |  Free (balance of the day)

02 | 15   |  T

Tehran

AM  |  PM vTehran  Fashion Boutique  +  Pol-e Tabi'at  +

 

 

+ Dinner at a Family Home + Borj-e Azadi     

03 | 16   |  W

Tehran

AM  |  PM v Museums  + Artists Forum  +   Mother’s Paradise Park +

04 | 17   |  T

Kerman

AM vvTransfer  |  AM  | PM vKerman  +  Pateh Artisans  |  Free

05 | 18   |  F

Kerman

AM  |  PM vRayen  &  Mahan Fathabad Garden     

06 | 19   |  S

Shiraz

AM vTransfer + Pasargadae  &  Naghsh-e-Rostam + Persepolis  |  Free

07 | 20   |  S

Shiraz

AM  |  PM vShiraz  + Beauty Salon Experience  Free (balance of the day)

08 | 21   |  M

Zein-o-din Car. 

AM vTransfer  +  Meybod  &  ChakChak  |  Free (evening)

09 | 22   |  T

Yazd

AM vTransfer  +  AM  |  PM  vYazd   +  Shabneshini Experience   

10 | 23   |  W

Isfahan

AM Termeh Workshop + vTransfer  +  Nai’an  |  Free (balance of the day)

11 | 24   |  T

Isfahan

AM |  PM  vIsfahan  + Turkish Hamam Wellness Experience    | Free 

12 | 25   |  F

Isfahan

AM  |  PM vIsfahan + Handicraft Walk  +  Miniature Art Gallery  +

 

 

Cooking experience at a Home

13 | 26  |  S

Kashan

AM  vTransfer +  Abyaneh  | PM  Kashan  &  Shar Bafi Workshop  | Free 

14 | 27  |  S

Tehran

AM Giveh Bafi Workshop  + vTransfer +  Qom  &  Kharmohre Workshop  +

 

 

Mausoleum of Ayatollah  Khomeini | Free (evening)

15 | 28  |  M

Tehran

Departure Transfer v  

 

 

 

 

the-journeys 

the-journeys 

 

 

the-journeys

Mystical Iran&you never thought about it    Ladies on the Persian Trail

Teheran * Kerman * Shiraz * Zein-o-din Car. * Yazd * Isfahan * Kashan * Qom * Tehran

  

15 Days | 14 Nights

 

Day 01 - 14 October Monday | Arrive Tehran at ???         

 

The Middle East is a grand epic, a cradle of civilisations & a beautiful, complicated land that is home to some of the planet's most hospitable people. From the gravitas of the Sahara to the blue tiles of Isfahan, this is a region for discerning travellers, for those looking for the story behind the headline & where the bridges between ancient & modern civilisations are everywhere evident. Here, history is not something you read about in books. It was here that some of the most significant civilisations of antiquity rose & fell. It is a story written on the stones that litter the region, from the flagstones of old Roman roads to the building blocks of ancient Egypt & the delicately carved tombs & temples from Petra to Persepolis. This is where humankind first built cities & learned to write and it was from here that 3 great monotheistic religions Judaism, Christianity & Islam all arose.

 

Its cities read like a roll-call of historical heavyweights: Jerusalem, Beirut, Cairo, Istanbul, Isfahan, Damascus & Baghdad. Aside from ranking among the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, these ancient-modern metropolises are places to take the pulse of a region. It is here too, that you find the stirring, aspirational architecture that so distinguishes the 3 faiths.

 

Salam & welcome to Islamic Republic of Iran - one of the friendliest countries on earth. the jewel in Islam's crown, combining glorious architecture with a warm-hearted welcome. Land of fire, a journey of flavours, being one of nature – so many metaphors to describe the country.

 

Little understood & seldom visited by Western tourists, Iran can seem opaque & enigmatic. Many preconceptions are based on its confusion with the Arab world, a fact lost on many in the West & a mistake many in Iran, with its over 2,500 years of Persian history, would probably take issue with.

 

An essential stop on the Silk Road, the Persian Empire stretched from Greece to India & brought its famously tolerant culture - including early medicine - to a world mired in comparative medieval backwardness. Today's Iran is still a place of bustling bazaars, glorious architecture & mountain villages with a young, friendly & open population. As long as you are not too attached to that glass of wine (curiously, Shiraz was invented here), a visit will take you beyond the rhetoric into one of the world's truly great cultures.

 

Arrive in the dynamic & vibrant city Tehran, one of the world’s greatest megalopolises with its chaotic charm & juxtapositions found on every street.

 

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? Tehran Imam Khomeini International Airport, subsequent to Immigration & Customs, you will be welcomed by The Journeys female representative who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the hotel, help you settle in & provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for the next day.

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes of waiting, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer. Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel, unless advised.

 

Reach the centrally located hotel & Check-in.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’. If ‘complimentary’ early Check-in is not possible, after you have freshened up, the Tour-guide will commence a brief orientation drive around Tehran.

 

Hugging the lower slopes of the magnificent, snow-capped Alborz Mountains, Tehran is Iran’s most secular & liberal city city that attract students from across the country. Expect relatively bold fashion statements & a range of ethnic & international restaurants.

 

Many people have a preconceived idea on the appearance of Iranian women; however, once you start exploring the country, you will notice a diverse range of clothing, facial coverings & styles on display.

 

The first time Tehran is mentioned in historical accounts is in an 11th century chronicle in which it is described as a small village north of Rayy (Ragha or Ray), often considered to be Tehran’s predecessor, became the Capital city of the Seljuq Empire in the 11th century but later declined with factional strife between different neighbourhoods & the Mongol invasion of 1220. Although, in later years Rayy continued to serve as an important centre of strategic advantage during various military campaigns across the Iranian plateau, its significance as a city was lost. Now a suburb of Tehran, Rayy is well known for its religious Shrines.

 

In the 13th century Tehran was a prosperous market town, known for its pomegranates, its 12 rival neighbourhoods with their underground dwellings surrounded by a band of trees & its defiance of the government.

 

At the time of the Zand dynasty, it was a little town that was significant from a strategic point of view. The first of the Qajar kings, Agha Mohammed Khan, named Tehran as the country's Capital in 1778 & most of its growth started during the reign of a subsequent Qajar monarch, Fath-Ali Shah. The Castle which Agha Mohammed Khan had built was to contain the new majestic buildings. Even though the dynasty was in a period of decline, Tehran soon took the shape of a modern city.

 

In the late 19th century, a major program of modernization transformed the Capital, enlarging the urban area by several times its size. Gates, Squares & Mosques were built & it was at the time of Nassereddin Shah that the city's master sketch was prepared & modern streets were constructed. The structure of large government buildings, new streets, recreation centres, urban service organizations, academic & methodical centres were started. The city's old architectural fabric replaced by a contemporary one. Later, huge central Squares like Toopkhaneh Square (now Imam Khomeini Square) & quite a few military buildings were built. At the same time, the city's population doubled & now total 14 million.

 

The new urban structure resulted in a north-south divide, separating the rich from the poor & modern from traditional, establishing a new character for the city. The northern districts are more prosperous, modern, cosmopolitan & expensive while southern parts are less attractive but cheaper.

 

In addition to Persians, there is a large population of Azeris in Tehran, as well as other ethnicities including Armenian, Assyrian, Kurdish, Jewish & Zoroastrian communities. The majority of Tehran's residents speak Farsi (Persian).

 

Tehran has also earned itself the rather unenviable reputation as a smog-filled, traffic-clogged, featureless sprawl of concrete. But you can also find an endless number of nice & cozy places in & around the city - if you know where to look. The cosmopolitan city is dotted with Mosques as well as several Churches, Synagogues & Zoroastrian Fire Temples, Art Centers, Palace complexes, Cultural Centers & well-kept serene Gardens & Parks, more than 800 of them.

 

And while Tehran lacks history, it makes up for it with many impressive Museums specializing in a range of themes. If much of Iran is an open-air Museum, Tehran brings it back indoors, with a vast concentration of Artwork, Manuscripts, Jewellery, Rugs, Qurans & more sourced from across the Persian Empire. The Cinema & contemporary Art Museums reveal the country’s continuing love affair with art in all its forms & holds works from a number of major international Artists. The National Museum specializes in ancient Iranian heritage while the Carpet Museum displays masterpieces of this national craft. A great start to your holiday as you learn about Iran’s rich history before visiting the sites. 

 

Tehran plays a noted role in the arts. The Tehran Symphony Orchestra has performed both at home & for international audiences abroad & the Fajr International Theater Festival is held here annually. Iran’s film industry, based in Tehran, has been internationally recognized for its new realist School of Cinema & its award-winning films.

 

The Iranian Revolution in 1979 had a distinctive cultural impact, limiting particular forms of expression while nurturing others. Within this framework, traditional arts such as Calligraphy & Music have seen a revival, with many educational Institutions & Galleries involved.

 

Exploring this fascinating Metropolis will transport you on a journey through through more than 250 years of Iranian history - from the glittering Golestan Palace & the adjacent Grand Bazaar to the notorious former US Embassy to beautiful modern structures which have come to symbolize the city.

 

Tehran’s architecture is eclectic; while many buildings reflect the international Modernist style, others display postmodern, Neoclassical & traditional Persian styles. A modern, vibrant city, its skyline is dominated by snow-capped mountains & a proliferation of high-rise buildings, topped by the beautiful 21st century Borj-e Milad (Milad Tower) rising 435 metres above the city. The Azadi Tower, which has come to symbolize the city, is a Memorial built under the reign of Mohammad Reza Shah of the Pahlavi dynasty in 1971 to mark the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire, greets visitors at the western entrance to the city. The unique pedestrian Tabiat (“nature”) Bridge, completed in 2014, largest of its kind in Iran, that connects 2 public Parks, is a modern internationally renowned architectural marvel.

 

With so much fascinating history on show in its Museums, Mosques & Palaces, those in charge clearly decided that Tehran needed a more “contemporary” attraction, too. Enter the world’s highest Dolphinarium, at the top of Borj-e Milad, where dolphins & sea lions perform for visitors 4 times a day to the sound of pounding Persian pop. But, we will stick with a civilisation showcasing 1,000s of year of history within history.

 

Tehran’s vibrancy is marked by large crowds of young people, numerous Shopping Malls, commercial streets, fast-food outlets, an expanding network of highways & bustling public Squares. The city mixes tradition with modernity & religious imagery with secular lifestyles, as evident in the large roadside hoardings that display revolutionary religious iconography standing alongside those advertising consumer goods.

 

With its relatively short history, ugly mask of concrete, sometimes choking smog & manic streets flowing hot with machines, many travellers & no small number of Tehranis will tell you there is no reason to hang around in the Capital. But to take their advice is to miss out. For while Isfahan or Persepolis has a convincing case for being the soul of Iran, Tehran is indisputably its big, ugly, chaotic & dynamic beating heart & the place to get a handle on modern Iran & what its future will likely be.

 

Spend time here - as you should - & you will soon realise that the city is so much more than a chaotic jumble of concrete & crazy traffic blanketed by a miasma of air pollution. But to get inside the real Tehran you need to get beyond the Museums & into the contemporary chic Cafes & traditional Teahouses, plenty of Art Galleries & on the walking trails in the mountains. That is where you will connect with Tehranis & enjoy all that is good about Tehran.

 

No services are envisaged for this evening.

 

However, if time permits & you wish to explore independently, let us know (we shall be only too happy to offer suggestions).

 

You may want to check out 30th Tir Street Bazar for a buffet of street dining selections including sandwiches, kabobs & exotic Persian Basil-seed or Khakshir Bubble Tea. 30 Tir Street Bazar is also called the Crossroad of Religion in Tehran as it is home to a Synagogue, a Zoroastrian Fire Temple, a Church & a Mosque, all next to each other on the same street.

 

Overnight. 

 

Day 02 - 15 October Tuesday | Tehran 

Morning, meet your Tour-guide in the Lobby at 08.30 am to proceed for a 6 hour sightseeing tour of the city.

 

Visit a selection of carefully-chosen highlights, from the remarkable buildings featuring some of the most stunning architecture to be found anywhere & concentrating on its excellent Museums.

 

Nicknamed “the City of Museums”, there is a plethora to choose from to understand Iran better from political, cultural & historical perspectives.

 

First stop will be at the famous Golestan Palace Complex.

 

Located between Imam Khomeini Square & the bazaar, the Palace complex is made up of several grand buildings set around a carefully manicured Garden. In what was once the heart of Tehran is this monument to the glories & excesses of the Qajar Rulers. Although there was a Safavid era Citadel on this site, it was Nasser al-Din Shah (ruled 1848 - 96), impressed by what he had seen of European Palaces, who built it into the ‘Palace of Flowers’. Originally it was much bigger, with inner & outer sections to encompass Offices, Ministries & private living quarters, but several surrounding buildings were pulled down under the Pahlavis.

 

Walk around the Courtyard & along the long Pool to Ivan-e Takht-e Marmar - a mirrored, open-fronted Audience Hall dominated by a magnificent Throne, supported by human figures & constructed from 65 pieces of yellow alabaster mined in Yazd. It was made in the early 1800s for Fath Ali Shah (ruled 1797 - 1834), a Monarch who supposedly managed a staggering (& quite likely very tiring) 200 odd wives & 170 offspring. This Hall was used on ceremonial occasions, including the Napoleon-style self-coronation of Reza Shah in 1925.

 

Then, walk outside to the open-sided corner known as Khalvat-e Karim Khani (Karim Khan Nook), all that remains of a 1759 building that served as Karim Khan Zand’s 17th century Tehran residence. The Complex boasts several Museums that you might be able to see depending on the available time.

 

Negar Khane (Art Gallery) displays a fine collection of Qajar era art & it was the brainchild of Nasser al-Din Shah, who had been particularly captivated by European Museums. Especially interesting are the portraits of the Shahs wearing the jewels & crowns that you can see in the National Jewels Museum (which you will visit), & pictures of everyday life in 19th century Iran.

 

The dazzling Talar-e Ayaheh (Hall of Mirrors), closed for almost 30 years, is now open to the public. Built between 1874 & 1877, the Hall was dedicated to the Peacock Throne before it was moved to the National Jewels Museum. More recently it was used for the coronation of Mohammad Reza Shah in 1967 (25 years after he came to power) & royal Weddings. Today, it houses gifts received by the Shahs, including a large green malachite Vase from Russia & 13 huge Chandeliers.

 

Further down, is the Howze Khaneh (Pool Room), named for the small pool & fountain in its centre. It houses a collection of paintings & sculptures of 19th century European royalty - generously given to their Qajar counterparts by the same European Monarchs.

 

At the east end of the Garden, the imposing Shams-Al Emarat (Edifice of the Sun) blends European & Persian architectural traditions. Inside, a sequence of mirrored & tiled rooms house a Collection of Photographs, together with yet more Furniture & Vases, gifted by European Monarchs.

 

Next door you will see four soaring Badgirs (Wind Towers, used for air-conditioning), rising above the recently restored Emarat-e Badgir, first erected in the reign of Fath Ali Shah. The interior has typically ostentatious mirror work & is worth a quick look. In the basement, the Aks Khaneh (Historic Photograph Gallery) exhibits a fascinating Collection of Photographs depicting Qajar Court life; look particularly for the picture showing the inside of a Zoroastrian Tower of Silence, with bodies in varying states of decay & the shot of ‘freaks & dwarfs’.

 

Next up, the tiny Talar e Almas (Diamond Hall) displays a range of decorative arts - especially 18th & 19th century French ceramics - in a room with red walls & a tiled floor. The attractive Teahouse underneath might well be more appealing.

 

After wandering back through the Gardens, you will come to the Ethnographical Museum near the main entrance, featuring a range of mannequins in traditional ethnic costumes.

 

The Palace tour finishes & you will walk out into the bustling ‘real world’ vibrant Bazaar & continue on to the National Jewels Museum which houses royal jewelry & historical objects from ancient periods to modern times,

 

Owned by the Central Bank & accessed through its front doors, the cavernous Vault displays an impressive Collection of some of the most famous & spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces. Many pieces have disappeared over the years but the remaining Collection of Gemstones, Jewelry, Royal Emblems, ornamental Guns & jewel-encrusted Furniture is still impressive.

 

All over the world, from ancient times to the present, jewelry has been collected to be both a display of power & to enrich the Treasury of Kings & governments. The Safavid, Qajar & Pahlavi Monarchs adorned themselves & their belongings with an astounding range of priceless gems & precious metals, making this Collection of bling quite literally jaw-dropping. During the Safavid period, Kings sent Ambassadors to neighboring countries to buy, collect & preserve existing & newly purchased jewelry.

 

During the 19th century Qajar period, jewelry design was supported & developed for the first time. Iranian & Armenian jewellers were invited to the Court & tasked with designing & creating a Collection of exquisite Gifts & the precise classification of government Treasury jewelry started. The unique & valuable objects that exist today are a mixed Collection of the history & art of Persia.

 

On display is an impressive Collection of some of the most famous & spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces. The majority of the items were given to Safavid Kings as Gifts but many pieces were brought by Nader Shah from his conquest of India. These include the Darya-e Nur Diamond & the Jeweled Globe. Other pieces include the Crowns of the Qajar & Pahlavi Kings. Neyshabour turquoise & the Persian Gulf pearls were gradually added to the precious Collections.

 

However, the most famous item on display is the huge Peacock Throne built in 1798 by the order of Fath Ali Shah. is adorned with 26,733 gems, including an extravagant carved sun on the top of the Throne studded with precious diamonds. Hence, it was originally called the Throne of the Sun. Later Fath Ali Shah married a lady named Tavoos Taj al-Dawlah & to mark the occasion in her honor, the Throne became known as the Peacock Throne (Takht-e Tavoos). Some evidence also suggests this was the Throne of the Mughal King Shah-i Jahan of India, which was brought to Persia by Nadir Shah Afshar, the King of Persia (1736 - 47) who invaded the Mughal Empire of India with a huge army, eventually attacking & looting Delhi in March 1739.

 

Another special object on display, is Nader Shah’s Shield, 46 cm in diameter, which he used in various wars. Initially, it was just a simple cover but later, like the Sword on display, it was ornamented by the order of Fath Ali Shah Qajar. In the center of this Shield covered with rhino skin, you will see one of the largest Rubies in the world, weighing 225 carats, surrounded by Emeralds, Rubies & Diamonds.

 

After spending 2 hours in the Jewellery Museum, drive on to the next spot.

 

In between, pass by a small Fashion Boutique, run by the ladies, of course, where you can check out the various styles, colours & patterns of Scarfs on offer & learn the different techniques of tying a headscarf. Talk to the Small Business Owner & gain insights into running a small business in Iran, exactly the same ad at home.

 

Enjoy Lunch (not included – direct payment) in one of the Restaurants in the vicinity.

 

If time permits, you may stroll around Sa’adabad Cultural Complex sprawling across the foothills of Darband, covering 110 hectares & comprising 18 separate buildings, The Complex is located in what used to be the royals’ Winter Palace since the Qajar dynasty, although it was the Pahlavis who expanded it to the site you see today.

 

It houses several Museums, though not all of them are open at the same time; the ones that are, provide a glimpse into the lifestyle of the Reza Shah Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran. For a glimpse into the luxurious life of the Shahs, see the extravagant 54 room White Palace, built in the 1930s. The more classical-looking Green Palace dates from the end of the Qajar era. The eclectic well-curated Nations Fine Art Museum is found in the basement of the White Palace. There are also Exhibitions covering royal vehicles, military paraphernalia, royal costumes & even royal tableware.

 

Head back to the hotel with 1 more Stop enroute.

 

Bridges have always been close to the heart of Iranian identity. Isfahan, a top tourist destination & a former Capital of Persia, boasts 2 spectacular Bridges from the 16th century Safavid dynasty when the city was at the centre of Islamic Art & Culture. Siosepol, whose name means ‘Bridge of 33 Arches’ & Khaju Bridge, are both popular locations for public meetings, poetry reading & traditional Tea-houses.

 

Reminiscent of Isfahan’s Bridges, Tehran boasts the modern architectural marvel - the Pol-e Tabi'at, (Nature” Bridge) the largest pedestrian Overpass spanning over Shahid Modarres - one of the main segments in northern Tehran Highway System connecting 2 Public Parks.

 

Architect Leila Araghian was 26 when she came up with Tabiat Bridge which she designed while she was a student, winning a local Competition for a plan to connect the 2 Parks separated by the Highway in north Tehran. Her first Project, 5 years on, the 270 metres structure became a reality, despite sanctions, garnering awards & paving the way for a new, more avant-garde generation of Iranian Architects. So, it is no surprise that a new hi-tech award-winning structure has appeared in the Iranian Capital. It was recently named among the winners of the Architizer A+ awards, an internationally acclaimed global Architectural Competition based in New York. She has since won several international Awards & Competitions.

 

In designing the Bridge, a process which took a total of a year, Araghian wanted it to "be a place for people to stay & ponder, not simply pass”. To achieve this, the curved construction is not straight & contains plants, benches, seating & Restaurants, Cafes & Observation Decks on top, on 3 different levels. Just as the Architect had planned, the Bridge itself has become an attraction.

 

Supported by 3 large pillars, the 270 metres curved structure has broad Entrances, multiple Pathways & 3 floors of restaurants, cafes & sitting areas. There are several walkways spreading through Park-e Taleghani & Park-e Abo-Atash, spanning over the busy Modarres Expressway, that have access to the curved body of the Bridge at different heights, offering visitors countless views & perspectives.  Not being a commercial Bridge connecting 2 points to which people are used to, there are multiple points from one side which connect various points on the other.

 

It was built over 2 years & was unveiled in late 2014. It is easy to see why this multi-level, sculptural pedestrian Bridge has been a huge hit with locals & is a popular place for hangouts & morning sports as thousands flock to the Bridge. It is a fun space to relax & in good weather, provides superb views of the north Tehran skyline against the Alborz Mountains.

 

Inspired by ancient Iranian architecture in which the Bridge was not just a crossing path, linking 2 sides of a river or valley, it gives Tehrani people an opportunity to shake away their stress & exhaustion by just lingering their walk, relaxing on the Bridge. People come here to run, walk, bike or eat out.

 

The 1st level has a Gallery with several Cafes & Restaurants. The 2nd level is mainly designed for people who are crossing from one Park to the other - they may be walking, biking, skating or even riding on a horse carriage. Finally, level 3, or the stay zone, is a place to stay & sightsee. In the middle of the Bridge, there are stairs & ramps designed to get from one level to another. The ramps make all the levels of the Bridge accessible for wheelchairs. It is a fun space to relax & in good weather, provides superb views of the north Tehran skyline & snow-capped peaks of the Alborz Mountains in the distance.

 

Spend an hour on the Bridge & enjoy a cappuccino at one of the Cafes on the 2nd floor of this iconic tourist landmark for locals as well as visitors.

 

The sightseeing concludes & you are transferred to the hotel by late afternoon.

 

Relax & get ready for an immersive experience which would be highlight of your journey to Iran.

 

Around 06.30 pm, you will be met by the Journeys Rep / Driver & proceed for a sumptuous dinner, not at a fancy Restaurant, but at a family home, where you will have the opportunity to interact with the Host’s family & learn about culture & their way of live.

 

Iranians are known as their hospitality & express their feelings & intense excitement of hosting, preparing a feast for their guests. Following this honorable tradition, your Hosts too, will prepare a real Persian banquet featuring both vegetarian & non-vegetarian cuisine.

 

If your Host is not wearing shoes, remove yours at the door. Greet any elders present first before individually greeting everyone with a handshake. Entertaining happens in the Living Room which is usually the most lavishly furnished. Dinner could be at the Dining Table or sitting on the floor.

 

Iran culinary culture is yet to be discovered by the wider world, so you be one of the few to learn, experience & taste. Thanks to Iran's place on the Silk Road, the country's cuisine has enjoyed ancient traditions shaping it to its current state. Persian cooking has many features in common with Indian, central Asian, Turkish & Middle Eastern cuisines, yet it has its own particular characteristics & is unmistakably different from any of its counterparts. For instance, while many ingredients of Iranian & Indian food are similar, Indian cuisine is spicier & uses pepper very generously.

 

Likewise, many of the ingredients used in Persian cooking would be familiar to North Americans, but we would be surprised at the unique ways the ingredients are used & the flavors they produce. A good Persian cook has an almost miraculous ability to turn simple ingredients into dishes of great subtlety & beauty. The cuisine is sophisticated & refined enough to hold its own with any of the world’s other great cuisines, but ‘cos of politics, it is hardly known outside the region. A variety of climates, wide range of fruits, vegetables, herbs have resulted into a diverse culinary culture throughout the country.

 

Enjoy the famously warm Iranian hospitality as you tuck into a tasty meal & chat with the family about their daily lives.

 

Depending on the day, your Host may prepare typical dishes like Khoresht-E Gheimeh (a beef & split pea stew with fried potatoes), Zereshk Polo Morgh (baked saffron rice with barberries & chicken), the famous Khoresht-E Fesenjan (a poultry stew with pomegranates & walnuts), Baghali Polo (a rice dish with lamb, saffron, fava beans & dill), or Ghormeh Sabzi (lamb with herbs & kidney beans, served with rice), Chelo Kabab Koobideh etc.

 

Now comes the dessert. Most popular & standard at home is Saffron Ice-Cream with Faloode, a cold dessert, consisting of rice noodles mixed in semi frozen rose water & sugar syrup, similar to a sorbet.

 

The evening ends with the serving of Tea. Persian Tea comes in a variety of subtle flavours & its defining characteristic is its deep reddish-brown colour, which tea-drinkers can choose to dilute with water depending on their preference.

 

And now, it is time to say au revoir to your Host & transfer back to the hotel.

 

But, on the way back, stop to see an architectural wonder intrinsically linked to the history of the Revolution.

 

A silent witness to Iran’s major historical events, Borj-e Azadi remains Tehran’s most iconic landmark - a favorite spot for foreign tourists eager to Instagram their arrival in Tehran.

 

The Tower, formerly known as the Shahyad Tower, originally built in 1971 to commemorate the 2,500th Anniversary of Persian Monarchy, became a symbol of freedom during & after the 1979 Islamic Revolution which toppled the reigning Pahlavi dynasty & brought Khomeini to power. At this point, the name was changed from Shahyad or Kings Memorial, to Azadi or Freedom Tower. When conceptualized, the Tower was to represent the grandeur of Iranian civilization.

 

Borj-e Azadi is located on Azadi Square, part of the 50,000 sq meter Azadi Cultural Complex integrating principles of the traditional Persian Garden through its immaculately landscaped lawn, pristine flowerbeds & streaming fountains, sentry to the west entrance of the Capital city, welcoming all visitors arriving at the next door Mehrabad International Airport.

 

It was designed in 1966 by a 24 year old architecture student at Tehran University, Hossein Amanat (now an Iranian-Canadian, incidently) who won a National Competition to design a symbol for the country paying tribute to the 2,500th Anniversary of the Persian Empire & was built by Mohammad Pourfathi.

 

The stunning architecture is a combination of Sassanid, Achaemenid & Islamic architecture. Hossein Amanat used the features of Iranian architecture such as a Windcatcher, Chahartaq, Persian Garden, Iranian Bazaar & spectacular tiles to double the beauty of this monument & enable the visitors, or even locals, to understand the Iranian culture & civilization.

 

The main arch inside the Tower is a symbol of the Sassanid era, the parallel bases are reminiscent of the Achaemenid style of architecture & its upper arch is inspired by Islamic architecture.

 

The inverted-Y-shaped Tower was designed to ingeniously combine modern architecture with traditional Iranian influences, most notably the iwan style of the arch. Built in the form of a Gate with a width of 64 meters & 50 meters tall Iron skeleton clad in in 8000 pieces of white marble from Isfahan that were cut into 15,000 different sizes & geometric patterns, from 40 centimeters to 6 meters in length & with unique curves & 8 separate sections. Muqarnas & beautiful decorations were added to this architectural masterpiece.

   

The Tower has 4 floors & you reach the top via 2 staircases & 4 elevators. Hamedan granite stone has been used in the construction of the main doors & the stones of the floors are from Kurdistan Pearl Mine. In the basement, there are several Theaters, Galleries with changing Exhibitions, Libraries & a Museum that displays various ancient Cuneiform Tablets, Ceramics & Pottery, as well as a replica of the Cyrus Cylinder (the original of which is housed in the British Museum) & a Cafe.

 

In 2015, Tehranis flocked to see German artist Philipp Geist’s Gate of Words, in which Azadi Tower was used as the canvas for a light installation, with words of Peace, Love, Freedom poetically projected on the Tower surface, in Persian, English & German synchronised with live music. The Square is also a concert venue during the Fajr International Music Festival, held every year.

 

Historically, political demonstrations have taken place against the backdrop of Azadi Tower, a solemn onlooker. These days, however, one of the only politically inspired events allowed to take place at this site is the annual celebration of the 22nd of Bahman (February 10th) which commemorates the anniversary of the 1979 Islamic Revolution when Iranians march from all parts of Tehran, eventually convening at this Square which was the scene of much protest during the 1979 Revolution & remains a focal point / venue for rare demonstrations today. Though the Tower plays less of a political role nowadays & acts more like a cultural ambassador.

 

It is worth going inside to see the complex structural engineering that forms the bones of the design & to catch breathtaking views of the west & east from the Observation Deck (not included - extra payment) on top.

 

Time to go back to the hotel & relax.

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 03 - 16 October Wednesday | Tehran 

Morning, meet the Tour-guide in the Lobby at 08.30 am & proceed to explore some of the unique Museums of Tehran.

 

Begin with the impressive Tehran Glass & Ceramic Museum (also known as Abgineh Museum) is one of the famous Museums of Iran, known not only for the beautiful artifacts it displays within but also for the beautiful century old building, re-designed by the well-known Pritzker Prize winning Austrian Architect Hans Hollein. The octagonal-shaped 2 storey structure was inspired by the Columns of Persepolis as well as influenced by traditional European & Russian architecture styles of the 19th century. The late Qajar-era building's 1st floor is connected to the 2nd through a graceful horseshoe-shaped Russian style wooden Staircase & classical stucco mouldings are particularly delightful with their many delicate carvings & decorative flourishes. The exterior & interior of the Museum comprises of decorative plaster, mirror & inlaid works. The façade is decorated with brick reliefs, adorned with intricately designed ornamental wooden doors & windows. The Qajar era style porch & pillar marks the entrance.

 

Originally, it used to be the residence of Ahmad Ghavam Al Saltaneh, an Iranian Prime Minister during the Qajar period. Later, it was bought by & served as the Egyptian Embassy for 7 years before it was taken over by Iran Commercial Bank. Subsequently, the Government decided to preserve the 100 year old structure & use it as the Abgineh Glass & Ceramics Museum, inaugurated in 1980.

 

The Galleries present a rare Collection of Glass & Clay works that remain, displayed chronologically through the ages, with detailed explanations in English that chart the history of the country & the region.

 

Contemporary custom designed showcases used to display the fragile artifacts, integrate specific lighting, temperature maintenance & humidity control etc. The Collection comprises of clay pots dating back from the 4th millennium B.C. up to the present time as well as glass works from 1st millennium B.C. up to the contemporary era. European glass works belonging to the 18th & 19th centuries are also part of the Collection, displayed in 6 Halls & 2 Entrance Halls in separate sections depicting different historical eras & subjects.

 

Spending an hour or 2, marvelling at the displays, head out to the next one, equally unique.

 

Persian Carpets – from Imagination to Manifestation, as the aficionados say.

The Persian Carpet is a brilliant & glorious manifestation of the Iran’s rich culture & superior artistic sense. The art of weaving carpets by hand starts with imagination & creativity in designing the pattern & comes alive with knotting the threads to create a work of art. Today, embark on a discovery of this ancient Craft.

 

Proceed to the renowned Carpet Museum of Iran, one of the world’s few Museums that specialize only in Persian Carpets coveted by the rich & the famous worldwide. Visiting the Museum offers a rare & exciting opportunity to appreciate them in their country of origin.

 

The 36,000 square feet Museum was started by Farah Diba Pahlavi, the last Queen of Iran who known for her extensive, active interest in promoting & contributing to Iran’s arts & culture.  

 

The Museum opened in February of 1976 with a limited number of Persian Carpets & Kilims, from all over Iran, dating from the 16th century to the present, in order to revive & develop the art of carpet-weaving in the country & to provide a source to satisfy the need for research about the historical background & evolution of this art.

 

The intention was / is to keep the art of carpet weaving alive as well as be a place to gather the most beautiful carpets from all over the country. In time, the Museum did just that & consequently, has become a hotspot for lovers of antique art & the art of weaving, as well as Historians & Researchers of the world.

 

The seemingly strange exterior of the building was designed by Architect Abdol-Aziz Farmanfarmaian to look like a carpet loom consequently, serving a 2nd utilitarian purpose of creating a shade on the interior walls, thus shielding the Museum & artifacts inside, from Iran’s hot sun. The exterior concrete lattice is meant to resemble threads on a loom. The Entrance Hall displays a map of Iran’s iconic Weaving Centers such as Kerman & Tabriz.

 

The Museum is composed of 2 Exhibition Galleries covering an area of 3400 m2.  The ground floor is assigned for permanent exhibitions & the upper floor Gallery is considered for the temporary exhibitions of Carpets, Kilims & Carpet designs.

 

Carpet-weaving is undoubtedly one of the most distinguished manifestations of Iranian culture & art, dating back to the Bronze Age, but as the materials used in Carpets including wool & cotton, decay into dust during the course of time, Archaeologists couldn't make any special discovery during the archaeological excavations.

 

However, in a unique stroke of luck, an excavation in 1949, by a group of Russian Archaeologists, discovered the exceptional Pazyryk Carpet in the grave of a Scythian Prince, among the ice of inaccessible Pazyryk Valley, in Altai Mountains in Siberia.

 

Radiocarbon testing revealed that the unique 1.83 × 2 meters Pazyryk Carpet has 36 symmetrical knots per cm2, was woven in the 5th century BC. The advanced weaving technique used indicates a long history of evolution & experience of this art. Most experts believe that the Pazyryk Carpet is the final achievement of at least 2,500 years of experience & history. The Pazyryk Carpet, preserved in the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, is an ancient witness of the Persian Carpet's value & genuineness. According to this theory, the art of carpet-weaving in Iran is at least 3500 years old.

 

The Persian Carpet has a deep-rooted history as one of the oldest handicrafts & today, traded as a precious & profitable commercial good.

 

Experts can estimate the price & value of a Persian handmade Carpet based on several factors, including the breathtaking diversity & complexity of the patterns, fabric materials, the count of knots, the variety of colors in the design, the age & origin of the Carpet. Even the region where the Carpet is woven would affect the characteristics. For example, Carpets that are woven in the western areas, such as Tabriz, Hamedan & Bijar, are utterly different in style, color & design from those which are produced in central regions such as Kashan & Yazd.

 

The Museum dedicated to preserving every aspect of the precious legacy & heritage of the Carpets, provides more than just beautiful Rugs to look at. In addition to the precious books available to the public, it also offers many specialised Classes to the public. Designed to keep the art of Rug & Kilim weaving alive, these Workshops teach everything from carpet weaving, to understanding the meaning of carpet design motifs, to the repair of damaged rugs. Students who complete these Courses are awarded a Certificate. And, driven by demand of Carpet afficionados & collectors, the Museum also has a carpet restoration & repair shop open to the public.

 

The Museum’s Library contains approximately 7,000 books in multiple languages, including Farsi, English, German, French & Arabic. These books are a collection of some of the most important & rare publications & research about Persian Carpets available. There are also books on Culture, Religion, Art & Literature, available to researchers, students & art lovers. The adjacent Bookstore also sells.

 

After 2 hours here, move on to the next spot of your tour.

 

A smaller version of National Museum of Iran, Reza Abbasi Museum (RAM) can be considered as one of the finest historical-cultural collections in Iran for those who wish to trace the history of Iranian art & civilization, that includes artifacts from the 2nd millennium B.C. to the beginning of the 20th century, the end of Qajar period.

 

Named after one of the great artists of the Safavid period, this Museum showcases Iranian art from ancient times & the paintings of Abbasi himself. Opened to the public in 1977 by the efforts of the former Queen, Farah Diba, it assimilates, maintain & study the priceless artworks revealing the cultural legacy of Iran.

 

Known as one of the latest & greatest masters of traditional Iranian painting, Reza Abbasi pioneered an innovative style which had a lasting influence on the succeeding artists & formed the characteristics of the School of Isfahan. Until his time, illustrations in books & manuscripts were more common, but during the time of Reza Abbasi, murals became more prevalent.

 

Instead of having several Courtiers as the subject of his paintings, Reza Abbasi was more inclined to depict 1 or 2 characters, with eye-catching colors used for their clothes & ornaments, as well as delicate backgrounds mostly characterized with a willow. He was a master in illuminating the nature & in depicting the mental state of ordinary people who usually had large eyes & wide chins.

 

The chronological arrangement of the objects on 3 floors provides a general overview of the development of art throughout the history of Iran.

 

The chronological array of the Collection starts from the 3rd floor beautifully arranged Pre-Islamic Gallery where one find tools, utensils & decorative objects - Achaemenid gold & silver rhytons (rhyton is a sort of metal container often shaped like the head of animals, which was used to serve drinks in the ancient times),  armlets & decorative pieces, often with exquisite carvings of bulls & rams - made of stone, clay & metal, together with coins & jewelry from the pre-historic times to the end of the Sassanid era.

 

The rare Collections on display including Luristan bronzeware & the stone busts, mostly decorated with animals & natural scenes, allude to the transformation of needs, materials, values & beliefs of the Iranians at that time.

 

The Islamic Gallery on the 2nd floor display handicrafts of the Islamic era, detailing the history of various dynasties of Iran.

 

The 1st Section showcases items dating back to the early Islamic influences on Sassanid designs manifested on the Potteries & Metalware of the Buyid period, decorated with Kufic scripts. During the Seljuk period, we see a greater multifariousness in styles & materials, testifying to the growing mastery of craftsmen & the thriving intricacy of their work.

 

Included in the collection are also a number of Paintings belonging to Harat & Tabriz Schools and various versions of Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh with their elaborate illustrations of Iranian myths & stories.

 

The 2nd Section of the Islamic Gallery exhibits Ceramics, Fabrics & Brassware, while the Painting Gallery shows samples of fine Calligraphy from ancient Qurans & illustrated Manuscripts, particularly copies of Ferdowsi’s Shahnamah & Sa’di’s Golestan.

 

This Section also houses a wide variety of artifacts from 13th to early 20th century. With the attack of Mongols, art & artistic trends, as well as Centers of Fabrication, underwent a huge change. Displayed are some samples of the Pottery with different colors & decorative patterns, of this period. You can also see the Metalware from another turbulent period of Iran's history, the Timurid period. Also displayed are exquisite book covers, pencil boxes & glazed potteries decorated with delicate bird & flower patterns from the Qajar era.

 

Of particular interest in this Museum, are the Calligraphy & Paintings of the Islamic period displayed on the 1st floor. The Calligraphy Gallery represents several hundred year old history of this traditional art until the early Islamic period.

 

Exhibited in this Gallery are margined & finely decorated scripts in various styles which flourished during this period, namely, Naskh, Thuluth, Muhaqqaq, Reyhan, Riqa, Touqi, Nastaliq & Shekasteh – works of great masters as Mir Emad Hassani, Ahmad Neirizi, Mirza Gholam Reza Esfahani, Zein al-Abedin Esfahani, and Darvish Abd al-Majid Taleqani.

 

Other notable parts of the Museum are the Temporary Exhibition Gallery on the ground floor & the Library with 1,000s of books in Persian, English, French & German covering fields related to displayed themes - Iranian History, Art, Culture. The Museum also has its own Publication Department which has published important references regarding the Iranian Art & History.

 

Enough of Museums for the day.

 

Today, you will be treated to a ‘Vegetarian’ Lunch, ‘almost’ a rarity in the Persian Culinary scene.

 

Proceed to Iran Artists Forum for Culture & Arts located near the Park-e Tehran or Artists Park (Garden of Art) on Iranshahr Street (a great place to buy souvenirs), for a fully immersive experience.

 

A favorite hangout among the art crowd & a safe haven for stray cats, the Artists’ Forum offers a peek into the contemporary art scene of Tehran. It was established to enrich & foster a broad range of artistic activities & as a home to Artists Associations.

 

Straightaway, move to the Restaurant inside the building to have a light ‘vegetarian’ meal, first. Wholesome vegetarian meals are served in this popular place where the produce is bought fresh each day & the kitchen is completely meat-free, so there will be no surprises in the Salads, Pizzas or Khoresht (stew). There is a convivial, romantic indoor-outdoor terrace + the bright indoor dining area.

 

A cracking shop, a vegetarian & traditional Restaurant, a few Cafes couple & ‘generally’ young people in love with art & communication makes it a great place to meet locals & learn about Iran, off the beaten ‘tourist’ track.

 

The Complex is home to Iran’s Theater Forum, Music Forum, Cinema Forum, Iranian Painters Association, the Association of Iranian Graphic Designers, Iran’s Society of Sculptors, Iranian Calligraphers Association, the Association of Iranian Poets & Iran’s Society of Architects. 

 

The Forum is an artistic & cultural complex where various events are held. Visual Art Galleries, Theaters & Movie Halls, Music Concerts, Handicraft Shops, Art & Design Shows, national & international events are parts of the repertoire. The Art Center is right next to the U.S. Embassy Museum, so visitors can connect the 2 attractions together, if.

 

Besides Galleries & Studios & Workshops, the building houses a Bookshop & an Art / Gift Shop selling handicrafts with Iranian characteristics & artworks of modern Iranian Artists. Beside Exhibitions, the venue offers Music Concerts, Lectures & Art Classes.

 

With lots of Galleries around this part of Tehran, Artists Park is something of an Art Hub, with 8 Gallery spaces over 2 levels, exhibiting works in all media on a monthly rotation. There are different exhibitions of visual arts from time to time, mostly of Paintings, Photographs, Graphic Arts, Sculpture & some thought provoking Drawings.

 

At Tehran’s most important hub of Artists, spend the afternoon meeting younger Iranian Artists (Painter, Sculpture, Photographer, etc.) to get acquainted with their activities & challenges, modern Iranian art & get some insights about the city. You may also want to explore some of the Galleries in the Park-e Tehran & enjoy the displays.

 

Finally, it is time to go home. But enroute stop by at Mother’s Paradise, the biggest segregated Ladies only Park, 1 of 6 in Tehran. Even the Guards & Gardeners are women.

 

With no men (even kids above 5 years) allowed inside the Parks & no videography by Camera or Phones even by other ladies, to prevent any invasion of privacy, they can let their hair down (within limits, of course, unlike the Western world).

 

Within the enclosed Parks, the ladies can safely & legally shed their cloaks & headscarves & let their hair down as they enjoy such activities as archery, art classes, aerobics, sunbathing in the lawns, swimming in the indoor pool, exercising in the Gym etc. without being conscious of their veil slipping or how they talk, laugh or behave. This kind of Parks are being set up in other cities, too. Some locals take it as a positive development, others think it is unnecessary ‘abnormal’ segregation of the sexes.

 

Taking the Persian trait of hospitality into account, we are sure you will have many opportunities to interact, learn more & may be, form friendships.

 

After spending an hour there, you are transferred back to the hotel.

 

Later in the evening, meet the Tour-guide again & proceed to enjoy a sumptuous ‘Persian’ Dinner in a Teahouse.

 

Come back to the hotel.

 

Overnight.  B L D 

Day 04 - 17 October Thursday | Tehran Kerman Mahanair W5 1050 5.30 am – 07.10 am 

You will have to wake up early today. In time, you would be transferred to the Terminal? - Tehran Mehrabad Airport to board your flight to Kerman.

 

Arrive in vibrant Kerman, among several cities in Iran with a strong cultural heritage, which is expressed in the local accent, ancient poetry, local music, handicrafts & customs that the city has introduced to the world. It was a Capital city of Iranian dynasties several times during its history.

 

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Kerman Ayatollah Hashemi International Airport, you will be welcomed by The Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort & provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for this day & the next.

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes of waiting, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer. Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel, unless advised.

 

Reach the centrally located hotel, Check-in & relax for an hour.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’. Failing, you will embark on a sightseeing tour immediately on arrival & Check-in in the evening.

 

While central Iran's gem cities are deservedly a far bigger draw, the southeast offers Cave-houses, classic Gardens, Fortresses, deserted villages, oases & fabulous erosion patterns all set in scenery that intersperses great expanses of desert with chains of high mountains.

 

Shortly after, accompanied by the Tour-guide proceed for a full day of sightseeing, exploring ‘some’ of the landmarks of this ancient city & its surroundings. The city is also listed among the World's 1,000 cleanest cities.

 

One of the most important cities in the southeast of Iran, Kerman, known in ancient times as the Satrapy of Carmania, is the largest & most developed city in Kerman Province. Famous for its long history & strong cultural heritage, the city is home to many historic Mosques & Zoroastrian Fire Temples.

 

Mentioned in Shahname (between 977-1010), the Iranian epic poem, Historians believe this city was quite eminent in ancient Persia as it was used as a base in exile by Cyrus the Great. It has been a subject to many phases of war & its Rulers’ struggle for domination. Many of its Zoroastrian residents fled to other cities & to the mountains when the city was conquered by Arabs.

 

Situated on a large, flat plain 800 km south-east of Tehran, on an important Asian trade route, it was ruled by a succession of dynasties including the Arabs, the Buyids, the Seljuq's, the Turks & the Mongols and consequently, became the Capital city of Iranian dynasties several times during its history. However, the remoteness of Kerman resulted in the town remaining without much wealth through the centuries.

 

Kerman was founded as a defensive outpost, with the name Veh-Ardashir, by Ardashir I, founder of the Sasanian Empire, in the 3rd century AD. After the Battle of Nahavand in 642, the city came under Muslim rule.  At first the city's relative isolation allowed Kharijites & Zoroastrians to thrive there, but the Kharijites were wiped out in 698 & the population was mostly Muslim by 725.

 

Relative peace was maintained in Kerman during the reign of the Safavid dynasty & it particularly flourished under Ganjali Khan, its Safavid Ruler, who built notable structures such as a Bathhouse, School, Caravanserai, Mosque, Water Cistern, etc.

 

By 8th century, the city was famous on the Silk Route, for its manufacture of cashmere wool shawls & other textiles.

 

The Abbasid Caliphate's authority over the region was weak & power passed in the 10th century to the Buyid dynasty, which maintained control even when the region & city fell to Mahmud of Ghazni in the late 10th century. The name Kerman was adopted at some point in the 10th century. Under the rule of the Seljuq Turks in the 11th & 12th centuries, Kerman remained virtually independent, conquering Oman & Fars.

 

When Marco Polo visited Kerman in 1271, it had already become a major trade route linking the Persian Gulf with Khorasan & Central Asia.  Subsequently however, the city was sacked many times by various invaders. Kerman expanded rapidly during the Safavid dynasty. Carpets & rugs were exported to England & Germany during this period.

 

In 1793, Lotf Ali Khan defeated the Qajars & in 1794 captured Kerman. But soon after city fell to the very cruel despot Agha Mohammad Khan who, angered by the popular support that the defeated Lotf Ali Khan had received, had many of the male inhabitants killed or blinded. Legend has it that a pile made out of 20,000 detached eyeballs, was presented to the victorious Agha Khan, by his equally violent Generals. Many women & children were sold into slavery & in 90 days, the city was turned into ruins. The present city of Kerman was rebuilt in the 19th century to the northwest of the old city, but the city did not regain its former size until the 20th century.

 

Currently, the city is the largest carpet producing & exporting center in Iran. Some of the Kerman handicrafts & souvenirs, are traditional embroidery known as Pateh, Carpets, Rugs, Jajeems, Kilims (a coarse carpet), Satchels & other hand-woven articles. Caraway seeds & Pistachio of Rafsanjan & Kerman are also synonymous with this province.

 

The only Anthropology Museum of Zoroastrians in the world, which showcases the ancient history of Zoroastrians, is in Kerman's Fire Temple. The idea of launching the Museum along with the Library of Kerman's Zoroastrian Society came to light in 1983, when the head of the Society, Parviz Vakhashouri & the former head of the Library, Mehran Gheibi, built up a Collection of cultural heritage artifacts of Kerman's Zoroastrian community. The Museum was officially inaugurated during Jashn-e Tirgan (an ancient Iranian Rain Festival observed on July 1) in 2005 by Iran's Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts & Tourism Organization (ICHHTO). Jashn-e Tirgan or Tiregan festivity refers to archangel Tir (literally meaning arrow) or Tishtar (lightning), who appear in the sky to generate thunder & lightning for providing much needed rain.

 

Also, the archeological ancient areas of Jiroft & Tappe Yahya Baft are located south of Kerman. Rayen Castle is also located in the vicinity.

 

Start at the Bazaar-e-Bozorg (Grand Bazaar comprising a dozen ‘specialised’ smaller ones) located between the Arq & Moshtaqiyeh Squares. The Bazaar encompasses various rows or alleys such as Arg, Ganj Ali Khan, Ekhtiyari, Sardari, Vakil, Attari, Qadam Gah & Mozaffari rows. It is, however, easy enough to navigate & has a vivacity that should keep you interested, especially in the morning & late afternoon.

 

Walk to Bazar-e Sartasari, one of the oldest trading centres in Iran. Its main thoroughfare covered with classic vaulting that stretches 1200 metres from Tohid Square to Shohada Square, is made up of 4 smaller Bazaars & with several Caravanserai courtyards off to the north. Within are several Museums, Bathhouses & religious structures.

 

Starting at Tohid Square, the first section is the Bazar-e Ganj Ali Khan, built in the 17th century for local Governor Ganj Ali Khan, which opens into a Courtyard with lawns, also featuring what was once Kerman’s most important Hammam.

 

On the north side of the Courtyard is the photogenic Bazar-e Mesgari Shomali (Coppersmith’s Bazaar) & at the Square’s northeastern end is Masjed-e Ganj Ali Khan, the Governor’s lavishly decorated private Mosque. Next door, Golshan Caravanserai has recently been restored & is now home to a bunch of antique bric-a-brac stores. There is an unusual little Money Museum here, interesting for its tall Wind Tower & Coin Collection.

 

From the northeastern corner of the Square, the Bazar-e Zargaran (Gold Bazaar) leads to a small Square with an attractive portal into an old (& now closed) Madraseh (school). The jewellery shops of the Gold Bazaar spill into a couple of old Caravanserai yards. There was another Bathhouse here - Hammam-e Ebrahim Khan - which is being restored.

 

From Ganj Ali Khan Square, the main Bazaar continues east as Bazar-e Ekhtiari & passes another 150 year old non-functional Bathouse - Hamam-e Vakil Chaykhaneh,

 

After about 600 metres from where the covered bazaar ends, there is the 700 year old more down-market section of open-air stalls, called Bazar-e Mosaffari with vendors selling fruit & sundry stuff from tables & crowded storefronts. There is a small Masjed-e Jameh (Jameh Mosque) here, which you can enter.

 

You will stop to explore Hammam - e Ganj Ali Khan. Built in the Safavid period, this courtyard is home to what was once Kerman’s most important Hammam, now restored & transformed into a Museum.

 

Wonderful frescoes adorn the walls & wax dummies illustrate the workings of a traditional Bathhouse. The Reception Area, for example, was divided so men practising different trades could all disrobe together. Signage is a little garbled ('AD' dates actually refer to Persian Calendar years) but gives an idea of each Chamber's purpose. Look for the ‘time stones’ at the east & west ends of the Hammam; translucent, 10cm thick alabaster Panels & Doorways that glow mysteriously when struck by low sunlight filtering through the skylights, giving bathers a rough idea of the time (at least around sunrise or sunset) according to how light it was outside.

 

Visitors who don't want to pay to go in, can admire the quirky, century-old figures painted onto the much older Safavid portal. There is also a display case of antique washing utensils in the Entrance Hall.

 

The 4 hour sightseeing concludes & you enjoy Lunch (not included - direct payment) at one of the exotic Tea-houses in the Bazaar before proceeding back to the hotel to Check-in (if it was not possible to so do in the morning).

 

Relax or walk out of the hotel if you want to explore some more.

 

Evening, meet the Tour-guide again & proceed to visit one of the many Craft Workshops Kashan is famous for. Carpets, Rugs, Jajeems, Kilims (a coarse carpet), Satchels & other hand-woven articles.

 

In every city in Iran, you can find a unique piece of art which has a history behind. From north to south, & east to west of the country, there are various types of centuries old local handicraft, some passed down from family elders to younger generation. Some of the Crafts are losing practitioners & gradually moving towards extinction though the Government is constantly coming up with support schemes to encourage & generate interest in the ancient art & heritage.

 

Today, visit the Artisans, mainly women, specialising in a traditional embroidery known as Pateh, widely popular all over the country.

 

Pateh is woven on different color & size of decorative, usually wool fabrics / cloths (some cases, silk, too) named Ariz (meaning “wide” in Persian), to turn them into hand-woven literal work of art suitable to be used as a table sheet, framed, or even woven onto clothing such as blouse & trousers. The intricate needle-work patterns illustrate Iranian culture & history & the beautiful designs include flourishing paisley patterns, cypress tree, the Sun, traditional pre-Islamic & historical Persian symbols painted with natural colors.

 

One of the most beautiful & oldest “Pateh” with unique swings, covers the Grave in the Shah Nematollah Vali Tomb. It is said that the weaving for the 355 cm length & 210 cm width Cover was initiated 1285 & it took 16 ladies working full-time for 2 years to complete. So, just imagine the intricacies.

 

Exquisite handmade Pateh comes in many different designs, colors sizes & items and has become one of the most precious & beautiful memento to cherish. Visitors cannot resist the temptation to buy this traditional needlework, one of Iran’s most famous souvenirs.

 

Spend time talking to the Artisans & watching them create exquisite embroidery pieces.

 

Time to go. The Tour-guide will take you to yet another iconic Tea-house for a sumptuous Dinner.

 

Return to the hotel.

 

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax or for independent exploration (we shall be happy to offer suggestions, in case you want to walk around).

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 05 - 18 October Friday | Kerman v Rayen & Mahan vKerman Drive: 104 km x 2 

Morning at 07:00 am, proceed for a full day 8 hour excursion to see the archeological wonders in the vicinity.

 

Drive to the medieval mudbrick city of Rayen in Kerman County, with 10,000 inhabitants, one of the most interesting sites in Iran with notable historical events. Rayen displays all the architectural elements of a deserted Citadel & is extremely well preserved, despite numerous natural disasters that have destroyed similar adobe structures nearby. With a Waterfall, several Thermal Springs, Fruit Gardens, green & pink Marble & Sodium Sulphate Mines, the city has become an attractive tourist destination.

 

According to the old documents, it was situated on the trade route & many Caravans used to stop here & re-energise before continuing on the Silk Road. One of the main Trading Centre for valuable goods & quality Textiles. It was also a centre of Sword & Knife manufacturing & later on, also Guns.

 

This amazing Castle existed during the reign of Yazdgerd III, the Sasanid King & during an invasion, Arabs could not conquer this city due to its high walls. During the reign of Nader Shah Afshar, this Citadel was owned by one of his Commanders.

 

Built entirely of raw clay, Arg-e Rayen, one of Iran's most impressive fortress-citadels, is a miniature version of the majestic Arg-e-Bam (partially destroyed by the earthquake in late 2003, under restoration), with all the architectural features of a desert Citadel dating back to the 5th century, is located here.

 

The Arg's vast adobe walls top a gentle slope directly south of central Rayen. Inside is a Castle within a Castle. Some sections are completely ruined but wandering through the extensively restored Governor's quarters, it is easy to imagine the trepidation that supplicants must have once felt approaching the powerful local Ruler through dark passages & hidden inner courtyards. Superb views from the battlements above the Gatehouse reveal a backdrop of 4420 metre Mt Hezar.

 

The exact age of the mud & brick Arg is unknown, though it is thought to be well over 1000 years old & may have foundations from the pre-Islamic Sassanid era. Until restoration in 1996, it had been essentially abandoned for about 150 years. With an area of 40,000 sq metre, the Citadel had been functioning as a small city with about 5,000 people living there. But then the Citadel gradually became desolated & the houses were destroyed.

 

Like all Citadels in Iran, Arg-e Rayen has 2 separate parts for the rich & regular folks, with sections such as the Zurkhaneh (a traditional Iranian gym originally used to train warriors in ancient Iran), the School, the Barracks, the Mosque, the Cellar & the Stables. The various social classes lived in different neighborhoods depending on their occupation & economic & social status.  An illustration of the ingenuity of the Ruler, to ensure the health of its residents, the Citadel also had a Quarantine building, intended to quarantine newcomers so that the sick people would not be able to get inside.

 

To keep Rayen safe, the Citadel had 4 Watchtowers built around it, as well as artificial ditches protecting the south part of Citadel from enemies. Entry Points to control people’s entry & exit, were monitored by the Guards.

 

Walking down the alleys of the great Arg, you can still smell the clay & dirt from its walls & imagine yourself as a resident of a 1500 year old Citadel which remain unconquered by any King or Army in history.

 

After spending 2 hours here, drive on to the next point on your way back to the Kerman.

 

Enroute, stop at Mahan, capital of Mahan District, is one of the summer regions of in Kerman County, with a relatively abundant springs & streams. Mahan is considered the producer of the best grape in Kerman & has many pomegranate orchards.

 

Mahan is believed to have been named after the Persian General Adarmahan, who led the troops of Anushirawan the Just (496-579) on the western frontier of the Sassanid Empire (226-651 CE) against the forces of the Eastern Roman Empire (Byzantine) (330 - 1204) during the 572 – 591 Byzantine–Sassanid War of.

 

Mahan is known as the city of Gardens & Caravanserais and is famed for its UNESCO World Heritage listed 19th century Qajar-period Garden-house, Bagh-e Shahzadeh or Shahzadeh Garden (Prince’s Garden in the Persian language), a masterpiece of Persian architecture.

 

Built in the late Qajar era (1785 - 1925) by the then Governor of Kerman, Mohammad Hassan Khan Sardari Iravani, just outside Mahan, it is an oasis in the heart of desert. It was entirely remodeled & extended around 1870 by Abdul Hamid Mirza, one of the last princes of the Qajar dynasty, who lived in the Mansion inside the Garden, during the 11 years of his Governorship.

 

Separated from its surrounding desert with high walls, this historical Garden enjoys a fresh weather, a breathtaking view, a harmonious design & a genius water system.

 

The traditional Persian entrance with lovely tiling, disconnects you from the dry & sandy world outside & welcomes you to the world of architectural beauty inside. But the fascinating view of the green world that opens before you, might distract you from the fine muqarnas decorations on the ceiling of the entrance building.

 

Like the other 8 Persian Gardens listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, Shahzadeh Garden is also a fine example of Persian Gardens that take advantage of suitable natural climate.

 

This 5.5 hectare rectangular walled lush Garden is filled with fruit, shade & windbreak trees. It consists of an entrance gate at the lower end & a 2 floor Mansion at the upper end which now houses a Handicraft Shop, Restaurant & a Teahouse, which looks very charming when floodlit.

 

The distance between these 2 structures is ornamented with beautiful Fountains that are cleverly inclined to make use of the water flowing from the heights of the nearby Tigran Valley toward lower ends on a water cascade style. The Garden is divided into 4 sections & has a natural slope that leads water downward when the snow melts in the mountains. Water flows to the upper part of the Garden & divides into channels that direct it to different parts. It is not just the Plants & Fountains that enjoy this traditional water distribution system. With lovely trees, parallel pathways & running streams, splashing Fountains, visitors find it enchanting.

 

One of the things that make Bagh-e Shahzade different from other Persian Gardens is that it is behind the main Pavilion, which provided the Owners with a beautiful design & a more private atmosphere.

 

There is also a Bath-house & many Pools in the Garden that is sheltered with a variety of trees including Pines, Cypresses, Poplars, Cedars, wild Elms & fruit trees.

 

Check out the Villa before strolling in the delightful Garden.

 

After spending an hour, drive on to see the Qajar era Shotor Galu Mansion (Camel’s Neck).

 

The impressive Mansion in the east of Mahan town, lies on the route of Vakil Abad Aqueduct, one of the most spectacular historical relics of Qajar dynasty, considered as one of the unique architecture attractions of Iran’s south east.

 

In the past, in order to maintain the safety of Gardens & Houses in the route of Aqueducts & Springs, the entry & exit of water was designed in a way that no live creature could enter it. Consequently, a channel with an obtuse angle shape was built under the walls of the houses, so that water could go down from the higher side with a suitable height & come out on the other side according to the relevant plates & since these channels look like the neck of a camel, such a construction is called “Shotor Galu.

 

And in most cases, under the influence of the creativity of the Iranian Architects, beautiful pools, fountains & waterworks were created through using the same method in the houses of royalties & Rulers, so that Cedar & Pine trees & 4 seasonal flowers & also fruit trees could create a pleasurable & refreshing space inside the Complex.

 

There is a beautiful Pool in the middle of the Mansion with a high, dome-like ceiling with stalactite work. A unique feature is a big Fountain that appears to produce the sound of a camel caravan passing by, when water flows through its fountain.

 

Drive to perhaps, the most famous of Mahan’s monuments.

 

Stop at the blue-tiled Mausoleum of the renowned 14th century Iranian Sufi mystic & Poet - Shah Nematollah-e-Vali who died in 1431, aged over 100.  

 

The Shrine erected in 1436 in his honor, has became a pilgrimage site, that attracts countless visitors every year, with successive Rulers contributing various additions over the centuries. The historical Complex comprises 4 Courtyards, ancient wooden Doors, a reflecting Pool, a Mosque & twin Minarets covered with turquoise tiles from the bottom up to the Cupola. The 2 charming, pond-filled courtyards have roosting birds in the trees who are all a-twitter at dusk.

 

The main Tomb lies beneath a 17 meter dome surrounded by carpets incorporating pentagram symbols, some with elements of backward mirror writing. There is a tiny Prayer Chamber whose walls & ceiling are covered with calligraphy in a spiral pattern.

 

The earliest construction is attributed to the Bahmanid Ruler Ahmed I Vali who erected the Sanctuary Chamber in 1436. Shah Abbas I undertook extensions & renovations in 1601, including reconstruction of the blue tiled dome, described as "one of the most magnificent architectural masterpieces in old Persia". The small room where Nematollah Vali prayed & meditated contains plasterwork & tile decorations.

 

The day ends & you return to the hotel.

 

Later in the evening, accompanied by the Tour-guide, proceed to one of the top attractions of Kerman - Fathabad Garden with its exotic Tea-houses, Pubs, traditional Pergolas, Handicraft stalls, where you can grab something, rest a bit, look at the traditional artifacts & maybe drink some rose water or herbal tea.

 

The Fathabad complex has become very popular with locals & visitors for its special lighting decorations in the night. The decorations next to the Pool are so extensive that some passengers in the air mistake it for the runway of adjacent Kerman Airport.

 

Encompassing 13 acres, the vast beautiful Fathabad Garden (also known as Biglarbeigi Garden), was very famous & glorious in its time. Its construction style became a model for building the Shahzadeh Mahan Historical Garden & for many years, it remained in the shadows. The construction of the Garden began in 1803 by the order of Fazlali Khan Biglarbeigi, the Ruler of Kerman during the reign of Mohammad Shah Qajar took 5 years to finish. Future Rulers Nosrat ol-Mamalek I & II, used to hold their official Ceremonies & spend their leisure time in the Garden.

 

During the Qajar days, the gateway adorned with religious motifs a description in Nastaliq, opened to 4 Chaharbagh (garden pathways) that were about 6 km long & 60 meters wide, decorated with 2 rows of Plane trees. The water from Qanat that is now dried up, fed small rivers on each side of the Chaharbagh & then poured into the Howz (a small pool) in front of the Kushk (Pavilion) deep inside the Garden. The rectangular Pool, reflects the image of the main Mansion despite being empty of water adds to the splendor of the Garden. Convex lenses, magnifying glasses were attached in the circular holes at the top of entry gateways to reflect the light of the fire lamps to make the front courtyard brighter at night.

 

The main European-Iranian style 2 floor building has a substructure of 1500 meters surrounded by trees & vast agricultural fields of pistachios. The Qajar style Pavilion located at the end of the north side, is made from cob bricks, mortar of clay & plaster cover, with decorated stucco doorways & arches on both sides. The traditionally styled rooms in this historical structure have nice lighting decorations & the plaster decorations on the walls are spectacular.

 

The most famous room in the Fathabad Mansion is the “Shah-Neshin” room. The personal office of the Ruler of Kerman, now also called Painting Room, features his Paintings & Murals, some of which contained solid gold. Today, glass protection has been installed over these. The Panj-Dari & Seh-Dari of the Pavilion features Photographs & Biographies of the past Rulers of Kerman in the section called Hokkam Museum.

 

But unfortunately, Fathabad was neglected for a long time & it was only after the Iranian Revolution that it was registered as a National Heritage of Iran in 2002 & restoration began & the Garden was reopened in 2015. Today, the Complex is a venue for Handicrafts exhibitions, religious & symbolic Festivals, Juice Bars, Restaurants, Tea-rooms & shops selling medical herbs.

 

Stroll around the Garden & then enjoy a sumptuous meal in one of the Restaurants.

 

Transfer back to the Hotel.

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 06 - 19 October Saturday | Kerman v Pasargadae + Naghsh-e-Rostam + Persepolis vShiraz Drive: 473 + 75 + 68 km 

 

Get up early today & depart for Shiraz, which bears many historical & ancient attractions showing the glory of of Persian Empire.

 

Stop enroute at a few sites intrinsically linked to Persian civilisation, such as Persepolis, the ruined 6th century BC, with its immense gateways, columns & friezes & Pasargadae.

 

First stop will be at Pasagadae, the original Capital of the first great multi-cultural Empire in Western Asia.

 

The Achaemenid Persian Empire under Cyrus the Great, spanning the Eastern Mediterranean & Egypt to the Indus River, is considered to be the first Empire that respected the cultural diversity of its different subjects. This was reflected in Achaemenes architecture, which blended multiple cultures.

 

Pasargadae was the first dynastic capital of the Achaemenid Empire, founded by Cyrus II the Great, in Pars, homeland of the Persians, in the 6th century BC. It developed into a city of some significance until it was superseded by Darius I’s magnificent Palace at Persepolis.

 

Some people are destined to create, while others are destined to follow. Here lies a man who was both a creator & a visionary, laying the groundwork for human rights. Koroush (or Cyrus the Great), was a person whose futuristic & innovative viewpoints were amazingly ahead of their time. So much so that his ideas have been emulated & reproduced many times throughout history, even centuries & millennia later.

 

Particularly noteworthy vestiges in the 160 hactare Complex include the PalacesGardensMausoleum of Cyrus II Tall-e Takht, an enormous unfinished platform built to one side of a natural hillock. Like the Acropolis in Athens, it may have been intended as a massive fortified plinth to hold Palaces & Temples. This was, in fact, realized later at Persepolis when Cyrus' successors built their Palaces on large plinths somewhat similar to Tall-i Takht.

 

There is also a royal ensemble of Gatehouse & Audience Halls - all outstanding examples of the first phase of royal Achaemenid art & architecture, an exceptional testimony of the Persian civilization.

 

King Cyrus built his Tomb here. With a total area of 3,427 square meters, UNESCO World Heritage listed Pasargadae Tomb built on a funerary platform, consists of a vast main Hall containing 30 white stone columns. The construction material consisted of a large number of black & white stones. There is a doorway on the north, east, & west sides of the hall. A winged figure with 2 wings pointing to the sky & pointing to the bottom, can be seen in the northern doorway. Whereas, the hands are raised to the sky in a praying motion. His Tomb was apparently built before his death & was meticulously guarded during the Achaemenid Empire.

 

“Mummify my body & bury me without a coffin because every part of my flesh & Persian soil coalesces.”

 

Did you know that when Alexander the Great conquered Persia, he ordered the restoration of Pasargadae & the Tomb of Cyrus the Great? He didn’t mean to stay in Shiraz, but out of awe & respect for the Persian king, Alexander ordered the Tomb to be restored & repaired, making sure Cyrus’ resting place is in good shape.

 

The only edifice in Pasargadae referenced in Greek texts & sources is the Tomb of Cyrus. On his military campaign to Achaemenid land, Aristobulus, one of Alexander’s colleagues, provided the earliest description.

Inscribed on the tablet found within the Tomb, as quoted from Alexander’s book Anabasis: O manwhoever you are & wherever you come from, because I know you will come, I am Cyrus, who won the Persians their Empire. So don’t begrudge me this sliver of earth that covers my skeleton.

 

The Nowruz (Persian New Year) & Cyrus the Great Day on the 29th October to commemorate Cyrus, which are held in the vicinity of the Tomb, have long been celebrated throughout Persia. Evidence of the magnificent New Year celebrations held during the Achaemenid Empire has been found in Pasargadae.

 

After spending an hour here, hop on the vehicle & continue driving on the pre-modern highway to the next point.

 

Next stop will be at Naqsh-e Rustam, the ancient Necropolis houses the immense rock-cut Tombs of 4 Persian Kings.

 

The impressive Necropolis that stands as a reminder of the once famous & powerful Achaemenid Persian Empire, which thrived between 500 BC & 330 BC when it was defeated by Alexander the Great. The Complex has been somewhat overshadowed by the nearby ancient Capital of Persepolis, but this royal Necropolis does stand out as a magnificent example of the ancient Persian architecture & art.

 

The 4 Tombs holding the remains of Achaemenid Rulers, are hewn into the rock at a significant height from the base of the hills & bear the resemblance of crosses, hence the site is locally known as the “Persian Crosses”. Only 1 Tomb has been identified with certainty - the great Persian King, Darius I. Archaeologists believe the other 3 Kings buried here are Xerxes IArtaxerxes I & Darius II.

 

At the centre of the Cross, are openings leading to the chamber where the Sarcophagi may have been placed. In fact, it is not known whether the bodies were directly placed in a Sarcophagus inside or if the bones were collected from a Tower of Silence & subsequently placed in the Tombs, in the traditional Zoroastrian ritual.

 

Above the openings of each Tomb are carvings of royal figures being anointed by God-like creatures. Other rock carvings below the cross-hewn Tombs commemorate various battles that brought the Achaemenid dynasty to prominence. One carving actually seems to predate the Tombs, suggesting that this ancient site had been used by people even before the Achaemenid Persian Empire.

 

Aside from the Tombs, there is a building in the complex called Ka’ba-ye Zartosht(Cube of Zoroaster) - a replica of the Zendan-e Solayman (Prison of Solomon) in Pasargadae. It was once thought that this structure was the site of a perennially burning fire common in Zoroastrian Temples, but the lack of ventilation suggests otherwise. Although there is currently no consensus as to the specific use of this structure, it is widely accepted that it served a religious function. On the walls of this building are relatively well-preserved inscriptions in 3 languages.

 

Drive on, but 1 more brush with history.

 

Stop at UNESCO World Heritage listed Persepolis (also called Takht-e Jamshid), one of the greatest successes of the ancient Achaemenes Empire as well as its final demise.

 

One of the great wonders of the ancient world, Persepolis embodies not just a grand architectural scheme but also a grand idea. Persepolis was the first capital of Fars, some 2500 years ago.

 

The ceremonial Capital of the Achaemenian Empire of King Cyrus the Great & perhaps one of the country's most beautiful & spectacular archaeological sites surviving today. Darius I who, inherited the responsibility for ruling the world's first known Empire founded by his predecessor, Cyrus the Great, started constructing the great Metropolis to serve as a summer capital in around 512 BC. Subsequent Achaemenian kings, including Xerxes I, added their own Palaces over the next 150 years.  The Administrative Center of the Achaemenians was actually at Susa, shifting during the summer to Hamadan while Persepolis was reserved only for ritual celebrations. Persepolis stands on a limestone terrace overlooking the Marvdasht plain at the foot of the Kuh-e Rahmat(Mountain of Mercy).

 

It was conceived by Darius the Great who, inherited the responsibility for ruling the world's first known Empire founded by his predecessor, Cyrus the Great.  Darius I started constructing the great metropolis to serve as a summer Capital in around 512 BC. Subsequent Achaemenian Kings, including Xerxes I, added their own Palaces over the next 150 years.

 

The Achaemenid Persian Empire spanning the Eastern Mediterranean & Egypt to the Indus River, is considered to be the first Empire that respected the cultural diversity of its different subjects. This was reflected in Achaemenes architecture, which blended multiple cultures

 

Embracing tenets such as cultural tolerance & fair treatment of all subjects, Darius sought to reflect these concepts in the design of the magnificent complex at Persepolis, inviting Architects from the furthest corner of the Persian Empire to contribute to its construction. The result is an eclectic set of structures, including monumental staircases, exquisite reliefs & imposing gateways that testified to the expanse of Darius' domain.

 

The striking point about its architecture is not only about how grand or detailed it is but how delicately it was influenced by the construction art of nations from around the globe. Tiles were brought from Babylon, precious stones from India, Cedrus wood from Lebanon and Lydians & Greeks worked together with Persians to raise hundreds of Columns to the sky. Although, it was the seat of the government of the Achaemenid Empire, the opulent construction was more reflective of it being a venue for Receptions, Festivals & Ceremonies.

 

In its heyday Persepolis was one of 4 key cities at the heart of an Empire that spread from the Indus River to Ethiopia. Its original name was Parsa & it only acquired its Greek name of Persepolis – meaning both City of Parsa (City of Persia) & Destroyer of Cities – after Alexander the Great’s army sacked the city in 330 BC.

 

Categorized among the world’s greatest archaeological sites, there are about 15 major buildings, including the Apadana, the Hall of Hundred Columns, the Gate House of Xerxes, the Treasury, the Harem & the private Palaces of the different rulers. The most important buildings were crowded onto a terrace of natural rock that rises over 9 metre above the plain on 3 sides & is adjacent to a low mountain on the 4th side.

 

The Great Porch of Xerxes, flanked by winged bulls of stone, leads you into a massive ruined complex of royal Palaces, Reception Halls, Throne Rooms, Courts & Apartments covered with inscriptions & carvings.

 

There are remains of a number of Palaces. Some of the outstanding ones are MirrorApadanaTachara which is the most striking with photogenic skilled relief work. Hadish Palace was completed by Xerexes & an unfinished one simple called Palace H.

 

Another Palace worth visiting (no name) is one with a 100 Columns which was burned down by Alexander3 feet of ash covered the floor in some places when it was excavated & many Columns are still visibly scarred by those flames which burned over 2,000 years ago. The ensemble of the city’s majestic approaches, monumental stairways, & annex buildings bear witness of unique quality & to a most ancient civilization.

 

The most majestic part of Persepolis is the eastern staircase of Apadana with stunning wall carvings showing rows of Persian nobles in formal clothing with headdresses that distinguish them from the Medes in round caps. Exquisitely carved bas-reliefs depict the representatives from all 28 subordinate nations under the rule of Achaemenid Dynasty, bearing gifts to their almighty ruler - Envoys from as far away as Ethiopia & ArmeniaIndia & Cappadocia.

 

There are also Ossuaries in the nearby mountains where several Tombs pertaining to the Kings, had been dug intricately. The ancient city was buried years under dust & sand for 100s of years till being accidently discovered. The ruins are reflective of it’s once glorious & majestic past.

 

Today, the enticing spectacular glory of the ruins of Persepolis reveal both the glory of the Achaemenid Empire & the abruptness of its passing. In order to understand its magnificence & glory, visitors can just walk through the Gate of All Nations & observe the perfectly detailed drawings of the surviving pillars.

 

Somewhat surprisingly for a city of its size & grandeur, Persepolis is rarely mentioned by any name in foreign records, which focus instead on other Achaemenid capitals including BabylonEcbatana (modern Hamadan) & Shush. This has led some archaeologists to speculate that the existence of the city was kept a secret from the outside world.

 

After spending a couple of hours here, hop on the vehicle & continue driving on the pre-modern highway towards your final destination where you will stay for the night.

 

Arrive at the Hotel in Shiraz by evening & Check-in.

 

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax or independent exploration (we will be happy to offer suggestions & arrange for Optional activities).

 

One of the oldest cities of ancient PersiaShiraz is set in a fertile valley once famed for its Vineyards, which makes it a pleasant place to visit. 

 

Celebrated as the heartland of Persian culture for more than 2000 yearsShiraz has become synonymous with Education, Nightingales, Poetry & Wine. Known for Love & Literature & the origin of first illustrations of Persian Gardens, it is a unique example of hospitality & warmth of the Shirazi people.  A city of poets, Shiraz is the birthplace & home to the graves of Hafez & Sa’adi, both resplendently renovated, now major pilgrimage sites for Iranians. It is also home to splendid Gardens, exquisite Mosques & whispered echoes of ancient sophistication that reward those who linger longer. The marble Tomb of Hafez, honoring the revered Poet, sits within its own garden. To the east, the Mausoleum of Sa’adi houses the 13th century writer’s mosaic-tiled Tomb & an underground pool.

 

Shiraz was one of the most important cities in the medieval Islamic world. The first Capital of Fars, some 2500 years ago, was Pasargadae (located near Shiraz). It was also the Capital of Achaemenid King Cyrus, the Great. when many of its most beautiful buildings were built or restored. There is also Persepolis, the ceremonial 6th century B.C Capital of his successor, Darius & his son Xerxes with its immense gateways, columns & friezes.  Today, only the ruins of these 2 Capitals remain. Estakhr was another capital of Fars, established by the Sassanians that lasted until Shiraz finally assumed the role of the regional Capital. The earliest reference to the city, as Tirazis, is on Elamite clay tablets dated to 2000 BC.

 

In 1724, the city was sacked by Afghan invaders. Shiraz became Capital of the Zand dynasty (1750 - 94), whose founder, the Vakil (Regent) Karim Khan Zand, adorned the old city with many fine buildings, including his Mausoleum (an octagonal tiled kiosk, now a Museum); the Ark or Citadel (now a prison); the Vakil Bazaar & Mosque. Buildings in the new city include the Persian Church of St. Simon, the Zealot & the University (1945)Shiraz is still the Capital of Fars province & it bears many more historical & ancient attractions and old cities of Persian Empire showing the glory of a nation.

 

Farsi, the ancient language of Fars (Pars) has evolved to become the official national language of Iran, i.e. Persian. The city, a trading & road centre for the central Zagros Mountains, is linked to Bushire, its port on the Persian Gulf. It has Cement, Sugar & Fertilizer factories & Textile Mills. Traditional inlay work flourishes, as does weaving in the surrounding region.

 

It is also home to splendid Gardens, exquisite Mosques & whispered echoes of ancient sophistication that reward those who linger longer than it takes to visit nearby Persepolis, the area’s major tourism drawcard. During spring, the fragrance of flowers, especially orange tree blossoms fill up the air. The Gardens are extraordinarily beautiful & eye catching & you will have an amazing experience visiting the colorfully painted fabulous religious sites which mesmerizes the visitors. The amazing architecture of these attractions is what really fascinates.

 

In his 1893 book “A Year Amongst the Persians”Edward Browne described Shirazis as ‘…amongst all the Persians, the most subtle, the most ingenious, the most vivacious’. And even in Iran, where regional one-upmanship is common, everyone seems to like Shirazis.

 

Overnight.  B D 

 

Day 07 - 20 October Sunday | Shiraz 

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 08.30 am & embark on an 8 hour sightseeing of Shiraz - nicknamed city of “roses & nightingales”.

 

Shiraz’s vibrant culture of art, craftsmanship & a rich history, is on spectacular display at the 19th century Masjed-e Nasir Al Molk, one of the most beautiful Mosques in Iran & one of the iconic images most commonly used to define tourism here. From the outside, it might look like an ordinary traditional Iranian Mosque, since its location on the alley, its modest entrance gate, the lack of high Minarets & a giant Dome does not reveal anything about the interior.

 

The most elegant & most photographed pieces of architecture in southern Iran, the "Pink Mosque" with its spectacular rainbow of stained glass & a plethora of exquisite rose-colour tiles blanketing the ceiling & the impressive sight of sun rays passing through the colourful glass showering the Prayer Hall with hues of light, makes it the one of the most beautiful in Iran & may be, the world. The Mosque includes extensive coloured glass in its façade & displays other traditional elements such as the Panj Kase design.

 

The best time to visit is early in the morning when the Hall & its Persian carpets are illuminated with a kaleidoscope of patterned flecks of light - a magical experience & an irresistible photograph. The Mosque comes to life with the sunrise & the colors dance throughout the day like whirling Dervishes. The smart placement of the windows where the sunlight glints every morning & makes a spectacular drizzle of colourful lights shows its architectural subtlety, reflecting on the ground, walls, the arches & the towering spires. It even reflects on the visitors as if a colorful ball is hit by the first sun ray & has exploded into thousands of butterflies all around.

 

The splendid building took 12 years to complete (1876-188) &   was built by order of one of the Qajar grandees, Hassan Ali Nasir-ol-Mulk, son of the Ruler of Fars Province at the time, when Iran was taking the first steps of modernization under the influence of Europeans who frequented the country & had a considerable impact on the country’s art, architecture & culture.

 

From the outside, it might look like an ordinary traditional Iranian Mosque, since its location on the alley, its modest entrance gate, the lack of high Minarets & a giant Dome does not reveal anything about the interior.

 

Once you enter, the precise architectural symmetry catches your eyes. There is a big rectangular pool with golden fish in the centre of the courtyard that reflects the sky & structure on its water. At both northern & southern ends of the yard, there are 2 porches with stunning half-vaults ornamented with colourful tiling & detailed Persian Muqarnas art.

 

The Mosque is a fine example of the combination of Persian architecture & European tilework. The exquisite pink-coloured tiles with beautiful floral designs are new features - brought by Europeans - added to the geometry-based Persian tilework in which turquoise & other shades of blue were the dominant colours before.

 

There are 2 Prayer Halls, one on the left side of the pool (winter Prayer Hall) & the other on its right (summer Prayer Hall). There are 8 arches on the eastern room facade & 7 Orsi windows on the western Hall façade. The ceiling relies on 12 stone Columns that are skillfully carved with tiny domes between each pair of columns. The end of this pillar row leads to a gorgeous altar which completes the splendour of this Praying Room. The skilful use of colourful stained-glass Orsi windows with wooden frames, is different from the stained glass one might see in a Church or a Synagogue. Orsi windows are standard in traditional Iranian architecture, mostly in houses & mansions but rarely seen with this artistic splendour in a Mosque. 

 

Next, proceed to the historical Karim Khan-e Zand Complex, one of the most outstanding attractions of Shiraz, built by the ruler himself, consisting of many attractive ancient monuments. There is a Bazaar full of stores, a Bath-house for getting clean, an amazing Mosque for saying prayers, a Castle as the residential place of the King of Iran, a Garden, a Museum for receiving the foreign dignitaries & a water Reservoir.

 

The city’s ancient trading Zandiyeh district in is home to several bazaars dating from different periods. The finest & most famous of these is the Bazar-e Vakil, a cruciform structure commissioned by Karim Khan as part of his plan to make Shiraz into a great trading centre. One of the most atmospheric bazaars in Iran, especially in the early evening when it is fantastically photogenic. The wide vaulted brick avenues are masterpieces of Zand architecture, with the design ensuring the interior remains cool in summer & warm in winter. Today, the Bazaar, one of the commercial centers at the heart of Shiraz which has still preserved its traditional style, is home to almost 200 stores selling fascinating carpets, handicrafts, antiques, fabrics & clothes, spices & seasonings.

 

Inside this Bazaar with its great architecture & traditional merchandise, there is an old Caravansary which has been converted into smaller markets named Saray-e Moshir selling beautiful jewelry & priceless gem stones and & Shamshirgarha Bazaar selling tribal handicraft. Outside the Bazaar, you can try Shirazi ice cream & Faloudeh at the traditional Seray-e Mehr Teahouse - an atmospheric little place offering lunch. The Bazaar is best explored by wandering along the atmospheric maze of lanes that lead off the main thoroughfares. Getting lost in the courtyards, caravanserais, and arched brick pathways & finding yourself in the domed Chahar-su (intersection of the bazaar) feels like a trip to the past. With every step you take, the scent of the spices, the colors of the fabrics, the shine of the copperware or the charm of Persian carpets, antiques & handicrafts penetrates deeper into your soul.

 

Walk to Masjed-e Vakil next to the tribal arts arcade. The Mosque from Karim Khan’s time, has an impressive tiled portal, a recessed entrance decorated with Shirazi rose-pink tiles, 2 vast iwans, a magnificent inner courtyard surrounded by beautifully tiled alcoves & porches. The distinguishing feature of the Mosque, however, is the forest of 48 diagonally fluted columns that support the pleasingly proportioned 75 metres by 36 metres vaulted Prayer Hall, displaying a hypnotic rhythm of verticals & arabesques. The entrance has a portal with great tile works in colors of green, blue & yellow.

 

The spectacular colossal Mosque has a central pond inside its yard which reminds the religious people when doing ablution of the temporary world in this transient life when their faces fade away in the reflection of water waves & they attest to the greatest power in the universe that is the Almighty.  Other fine features include an impressive mihrab & 14 step marble minbar, carved from a monolith transported all the way from Azerbaijan. Much of the tiling, with its predominantly floral motifs, was added in the early Qajar era.

 

The next attraction that Karim Khan-e Zand had built in Shiraz was a Vakil Bathhouse in the western part of Masjed-e Vakil & next to Bazar-e Vakil. It used to be a public bath for almost all the people of Shiraz until 90 years ago, when it was converted into a traditional Gymnasium for a while & then the government designated this as a National Heritage Monument to preserve as a replica of a traditional Bathhouse.

 

Today, Iran Cultural Heritage Organization has made a lot of attempts to renovate some ruined parts of Bathhouse in order to preserve the ancient Persian culture & the Iranian identity. Archaeologists have carefully examined the decorations & architectural details & have concluded that they are inspired by Safavid architecture.

 

The 1,350 sq. metre Bathhouse is one of the largest traditional Bathhouses in Iran & offers visitors a glimpse of the past around 400 years ago, into the life style of the people of Shiraz. Famous for its aesthetic beauty, it forces its visitors to walk with their heads held high to look at the impressive frescoes on the ceiling. This ancient artwork is discernable for its great magnificence which is hard to find in any other historic Baths. 

 

The structure is mainly built of brick, gypsum mortar & stone & the entrance portal on the north of the Bathroom is a low doorway connecting to an Anteroom with a slight slope. This technique along with the angled entrance of the rooms was brilliantly applied to trap the heat inside. The Anteroom, decorated with arabesque patterns, leads to a chamber which used to be a Dressing Hall. This octagonal room holds 8 monolithic stone columns supporting the vault. The walls are decorated with stucco molding in floral & geometric patterns. There is a big Pool in the middle & the empty spaces around it were used to hold shoes.

 

A corridor where the lavatories are situated connects the Dressing Hall to the Heat Room which was meant for people to rest after their bath. Bath time in the days gone by involved more than just cleaning yourself. People interacted with one another chatting, cleaning, grooming, getting massages. So, it is a natural thing in Iran that strangers easily communicate with each other & talk about their lives.

 

It should be noted that the Bathrooms were not places used merely for cleaning, but also served as a local community centre for different ceremonies like baby shower, marriage proposals, other old marriage traditions. You can get feel of a real ceremony held here by visiting the room dedicated to 'Henna Bandan'. This is a ritual in a traditional Iranian Wedding Ceremony where the relatives put Henna on bride's hands as a symbol of joy & fortune. 

 

This makes the Bathhouse a great place to get to know Iranian culture. Vakil Bathhouse is a rich Museum of Anthropology. Visitors can find life-size wax figures clad in ‘Long’ (a piece of traditional cloth worn around the waist) in different sections, modeling the traditional stages of bathing, representing the function & some of the customs that used to be held there.

 

The central Heat Room architectural design is based on a square plan ground with 4 columns in solid rock topped by a canopy of vaults. Hot water canals passed under the floor covered with stones. The dados are in green marble plates imported from Tabriz. There are 2 deep niches with a large stone pool in front of them which were used by nobilities. Particularly remarkable are the plaster designs created in the Qajarid era (1785 to 1925) over the Zand designs. 

 

Next, proceed to visit Pars Museum near-by.

 

Small in size but it is a glorious monument built around 200 years ago inside Nazar Garden dating back to the Safavid time, by the order of Karim Khan as one of his royal Project for the ordinary people of Shiraz. It is an octagonal Mansion & a beautiful Pavilion decorated with exquisite tile & brick work & painted roof, that was initially built as a ceremonial meeting place where Karim Khan greeted guests & diplomats.

 

Influenced by European arts in Iran, the Pavilion was named Kolah-e Farangi (foreign hat). The octagonal shape of the building with its extraordinarily beautiful decorations especially the tiles with floral motifs & birds & flowers depicted on their surfaces, added to the beauty.

 

In 1943, the building was converted to a Museum to display exquisite items kept inside the glass boxes. Spend time exploring the interesting items related to Persian art, history & architecture. Relics & artifacts from pre-Islamic & Islamic era are exhibited.  It now houses a collection relating to the life of Karim Khan & other historic artifacts relating to the province. There is also a Collection of valuable metals & coins from 4th millennium B.C. Papier-mache works of Artists from Zand era can be seen, too. There is a Sword that supposedly belonged to Karim Khan Zand. But the most unique object of the Museum is Haftadman Quran, handwritten in Muhaqqaq calligraphy by Ibrahim Sultan, the Timurid prince, in 9th century.

 

Following his will, Karim Khan Zand was buried in the eastern alcove of the Mansion in 1193 AH.

 

Depending on the available time, you may also visit 18th century Arg-E Karim Khan (the Citadel). From the outside, you can see the long & majestic walls of the Castle with crenelations inspired from the ancient city of Persepolis.

 

Upon entering, cross an octagonal shape Saloon which was meant to protect the privacy of King’s family. There are some small platforms provided for the people who came to visit the King, to rest (or wait for the summons). Crossing the Saloon, you enter into a beautiful stylish Persian garden with all the relevant elements of a typical garden i.e. porches, ponds with nice & delicate designs, high roofs with monolithic stone & wooded pillars.

 

Inside the rooms, you can see decorations of golden floral motifs. Besides, there are colored windows in red, yellow, blue & green to add to the beauty of this residential Palace & also to avoid unwanted insects from entering the rooms. The shape of decorations & the pool and many other things inside the Palace has Toranj-like patterns or citrus fruits. There is also a small wind catcher above the pond in front of the Pavilion on top of the roof. Across from this Castle on the other side of the street, you can observe a Pavilion & a magnificent building which had been originally constructed for the foreign guests of Karim Khan-e Zand which has now been converted into a Garden & a Museum full of many priceless antiques from the Zandieh, Qajar & Pahlavi eras.

 

Leaving the Karim Khan-e Zand Complex behind, proceed to see some other notable sights which has made Shiraz famous.

  

Drive on after spending an hour exploring in the Museum & the next stop will be Aramgah-e Sa’adi(Mausoleum), resting place of Iran's best-known poet - a literary giant of the 14th century. Set in a pleasant Garden, the present Tomb was built in 1952 & replaces an earlier much simpler construction. The grave is inside an octagonal edifice on top of which stands an amazing azure blue dome.

 

Unlike Hafez (another famous poet)Sa’adi traveled extensively in Iraq & Syria, where he was even taken prisoner by the Crusaders. Upon his return to ShirazSa’di wrote his most famous works, the Bustan (The Orchard) & the Golestan (The Rose Garden), in which moral tales are written either in verse or in a mixture of prose & verse. Sa’adi is said to have died in 1290 at the grand age of 101.

 

One of Shiraz’s several Shrines, housed in an open-sided colonnade built during the Pahlavi era, is dedicated to Sheikh Mohammed Shams-ed-Din, simply known as Sa’adi - a Poet who lived & died between 1207 & 1291.

 

A tranquil place that makes for a pleasant respite from the noise of the surrounding city, the Mausoleum whose walls are inscribed with verses of Sa’adi’s poems, is set amidst generous gardens of evergreens, bitter orange & roses, appropriate to a man who wrote so extensively about flowers. Inside the serene Garden, one can listen to traditional Persian music played on the speakers & enjoy the relaxing environment. There is a beautiful pond in the yard in front of the Entrance where visitors throw coins in the hope that their wishes would come true. Just like the famous Trevi Fountain in Rome.

 

Sa’adi has been internationally revered, then & even now by scholars. In fact, he has been immortalised in the United Nations in New York. One of his Poem is written on top of the main Entrance of the United Nations: Human beings are members of a whole, In creation of one essence & soul. If one member is afflicted with pain, other members uneasy will remain. If you have no sympathy for human pain, the name of human you cannot retain”.

 

There are the usual Iranian traffic issues, but the city’s agreeable climate, set as it is in a fertile valley once famed for its Vineyards, makes it a pleasant place to visit. See from outside the famous Tomb of Shah Cheragh, brother of Imam Reza. The Tomb, beautifully lit at night, draws thousands of pilgrims annually & is the principal pilgrimage center in the province of Fars.

 

The sightseeing concludes & you return to the hotel.

 

Evening, we have a special treat for the ladies – a beauty treatment at a Ladies only Beauty Parlour.

 

The women, particularly in the bigger cities, are some of the most impeccably & stylishly dressed people you can see (if you are a fashion aficionado, bring some extra cash & treat yourself to a silk scarf or swing coat).

 

Arrive at the place & you are welcomed by the Owner.

 

At first, it may be a bit disorientating. The air is thick with hairspray & nail lacquer fumes & Farsi pop pounds from the Stereo. Above a leather couch, a Persian model surveys her Kingdom from a gilded frame. Women of all ages mill about the room reading magazines, wielding brushes & waiting for their hair to set. You will see all the ladies with their hair down, literally. Seeing everybody on the street with a head scarf / hijab & covering your head, too, at first it may seem odd.

 

Cut? Blow-wave? Pedicure? Nail treatment ? Henna Tattoo ? We have included the standard Nail Treatment or a Henna Tattoo Package with our compliments (if you are interested in any other Service, there would be supplement which the Tour-guide will advise).

 

In modern Iran, particularly among city-dwelling middle-classes, visiting a Beauty Salon can be an important part of a woman’s week. It is a social occasion, an opportunity to gather & catch up with friends on the latest news or celebrity gossip (you will be surprised to hear Iranians are obsessed with Kardashians & other western glitterati) like people might do at a Hammam or a Market or a Pub in Turkey or Peru or Australia or wherever. Indeed, the Salons are abuzz with conversation: low-key chats are exchanged between the girls at the Nail Desks, while across the room others laugh & shout over the hairdryers & enjoy in general.

 

Back home, you may not be a Beauty Salon aficionado & may have never had your Nails done, but here, we assure you, it would be an exciting experience amid the safe intimacy of this experience in a Group, consisting of women of varying ages from all over the world, even closer together. You could even get a small ‘henna’ tattoo on your wrist if you want. The girls will show you the designs on an Ipad & you can pick one. 

 

Beauty Salons aren’t just beneficial for creating a sense of community among local (& visiting) patrons. Since the Revolution, opening a Beauty Parlour - often in the basement or extra room in the house - was a common way for women to gain financial independence. Since then, it has evolved into a booming business as Iranian ladies have quite a preoccupation with beauty (government also offers support programs for self-employment). Visitors may wonder why women here spend so much on getting their hair done when it will just be covered by a hijab. “Maybe for their husbands in the home. Maybe for when they are among friends, other women or it may just be for themselves. To feel special no matter who can see”.

 

Iran is also one of the Nose job Capitals. Indeed, Iran has one of the highest rates of Rhinoplasty in the world. Very popular with young people who are obsessed with Kylie Jenner. Instagram & Pinterest. And it is not just the women; men seem to be just as fastidious about their appearance, often travelling from neighbouring nations to benefit from Iran’s thriving Beard Transplant trade.  

 

You will learn gain more insights about Persian culture interacting with the ladies at the Parlour while you wait or get the treatment.

 

Leave the Salon & proceed for a sumptuous Dinner.

 

Return to the hotel.

 

Overnight. B D 

 

Day 08 - 21 October Monday | Shiraz v Meybod  &  ChakChak  vZein-o-din Car.

Drive: 473 + 75 + 68 km 

 

 

Get up very early today & depart for Zein-o-din Caravanserai. Enroute, you will stop at Meybod & Chak Chak. (Maybod & Chak Chak stops will depend on the driving time, traffic conditions & discretion of the Tour-guide).

 

Arrive in Meybod by noon & commence your guided exploration.

 

Meybod is a sprawling mud-brick desert city with an ancient past. The city, which resembles Yazd city in many aspects, is considered to be much older than the City of Wind Towers with a recorded history of over 7,000 years. Legend has it that the ancient Narin Ghale (Castle) belonged to King Solomon, the mythical Prophet & was built by Jinns (spirits), but whatever the original provenance of the Castle's foundations, most of what can be seen today dates from the Sassanian era.

 

The town was the Capital of Iran during the Kingdom of the Muzaffarid which originated from here where the first King was born. It was an important region during the Safavid era, when the city was home to many Persian poets. Some believe the city was founded by Meybodar, a Sassanid (226 - 651 CE) Commander, who named the city after himself while others say, the city was founded by Keyumars, the First Man in Avestan accounts & the first of the Pishdadi Kings in Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh (Book of Kings). Pishdadian are considered the first Aryan dynasty in Persian mythology.

 

The Meybod-minted Sassanid coins found in excavations in different parts of Iran suggest the city was an important center towards the end of the Sassanid era as only a handful of the 111 known Sassanid cities were able to mint coins.

 

There are remains of historical Caravanserais around the city, from the time of Safavid dynasty. The most well-preserved Caravanserai with a vast courtyard surrounded by small rooms & an octagonal construction at the center, was made by the order of Shah Abbas. A few locals operate handicraft shops here.

 

Meybod’s proximity to Dasht-e Kavir Mountains has bestowed desert climate on the city & consequently, it experiences extremely hot Summers & cold Winters with mild Springs & Falls. The city is highly rich in mineral resources & consequently, its economy depends on the Mining industry. Numerous Tile & Ceramic factories have turned the city into the center of Tile & Ceramic production in Iran.

 

Industry & traditions merge in creating a thriving Handicraft centre - Ceramics, Pottery, Zilu Carpets, exported to other cities around Iran & the World. Countless shops throughout the city sell these fine Persian creations. Agriculture is common in this city from the past & the biggest Quail Breeding Center in the country & 2nd biggest in the Middle East is located here. Most people of this city are Muslims speaking Farsi with a Yazdi dialect.

 

Enjoy Lunch in the ancient Shah Abbasi Caravanserai.

 

Located in the Caravanserai is the Zilu Museum dedicated to the history of the craft of weaving, illustrating the steps of picking & sorting the Cotton to dying the threads with local plants like pomegranate peel to weaving the Zilu itself. It displays some fine examples of Zilu dating back to 16th century.

 

While most people are familiar with the highly-regarded Persian Rug, fewer have heard of Zilu, a world-known handmade Rug made with cotton strings, with simple geometrical cypress motif patterns in blue & white. While the Museum provides valuable insight into the process & history, you will visit A Zilu workshop where you can watch nimble master Weavers hard at work & appreciate just how much time & effort goes into creating each one.

 

Watch in awe at how deftly the Weaver’s fingers move & how patterns are transferred onto the loom from his imagination. Zilu is woven so cleanly that the front & back are indistinguishable so, it is reversible. Skilled Weavers can create some 60 different designs & can also weave words or special messages, on request.

 

Meybod is considered the center & “Pottery Capital of Iran”.  Note that the Pottery items are handcrafted by women only & men help in the process of carrying the clay & nothing more. Decorative pottery objects, earthenware vases & even ceramics pitchers are still seen in many homes today. Pottery, a sub-category of Ceramic, refers to containers with the same level of thickness in all areas, made of clay, on a Potters Wheel.

 

Next, see the Pottery Museum, which is inside a historical water reservoir related to the Qajar Dynasty, exhibits a collection of 100 historical pottery pieces, the oldest of which is a Pot dating back to the Medes era, discovered in Meybod. You can also see the various stages of the production process of making Pottery items using the iconic Potter's Wheel.

 

The contemporary creation of Pottery in Iran, more than a 1,000 year old, has managed to continue its remarkable legacy while developing even further in some regions of Iran. The oldest hand-made brown Persian pottery dishes with a rough surface, ever discovered are cave pottery dishes that belong to the Neolithic era. It was the age of the development of agriculture & Man learned that by baking clay, he can make cooking utensils & consequently, the Art of Pottery was born. In that era, the lower class used clay pottery cooking utensils, whereas the upper class & aristocrats used dishes made of gold, silver, copper or brass.

 

There are many traditional Pottery Workshops in the city where they create eye-catching pieces. Continuing with ancient motifs resembling the Artworks that were created thousands of years ago, the designs on the dishes are influenced by the climate, desert, sky, water, etc. 2 of the most significant patterns characterized by their special & simple geometrical designs on Meybod Pottery dishes, are Khorshid Khanom (illustrating the Sun as a lady) & Morghak (“The Bird & the Fish”). The sun resembles the sunny climate of the desert in which Yazd is located and the fish represent the draught & the water shortage in the area.

 

If time permits, those who want to, can participate in a short Workshop, offering the opportunity to work on a Potters Wheel.

 

It is an ancient city that goes back to pre-Islamic arena & hence, is home to many ancient points of interests & historical sites that are scattered in & around the city such as the Stone Mill, Kelar Ab-Anbar (cistern), Ice House & Pigeon Tower (dovecote).

 

Meybod Yakhchal (Icehouse) is a practical work of art & an illustration of scientific ingenuity. The historical adobe Fridge with a history that goes back to the Qajar period (probably Safavid era) is one of the unique sites of this city & one of the very few Fridges remaining in Yazd Province. These ancient Refrigerators were used primarily to store ice for use in the summer, as well as for food storage, in the hot, dry desert climate of Iran.

 

In the past, Ice was considered a precious substance in dry & warm regions like Meybod & Yazd and the people came up with the idea of constructing Icehouses (refrigerated enclosures), which are conical buildings in which ice could be preserved for longer durations. The Meybod Yakhchal is one of the amazing attractions in this desert city.

 

The main parts of this recently restored, elegant 400 year old mud & brick structure (one of the most impressive Icehouses in Iran) include 2 metre thick shadow-caster walls that prevent the sun reaching the 2 shallow icing ponds where water freezes in winter, a tall pit (called Yakhchal which cooled the air through the evaporation of water) for the storage of the ice from the ponds & a dome to shelter the ice from summer heat.

 

The production process was designed in a way that would lead stream or aqueduct water down to ice ponds during cold nights in winter so that thick, multi-layered ice sheets can be formed. Once solidified, it was broken into pieces & water was poured in the loose spaces between the ice pieces to make them pressed so melting time can be delayed.

 

Collecting the ice before sunrise, they stored it in the Dome. The dome walls are thick at the base but taper to a single brick at the top - a remarkable feat of engineering. Warm air, rising to the top of the dome, would have escaped through the hole that was closed once the storage area was full. A drain for any melted ice ensured that the stock wasn't spoilt by standing meltwater.

 

The well-preserved Kabootar Khaneh (or Pigeon Tower) is another exotic attraction left over from the Qajar era. These ingenious simple functioning structures could be found in different parts of Iran for sheltering the Pigeons & also collecting the birds’ dropping!

 

At the Kabootar Khaneh with its fine brick work, the Architect has managed to cram-in a plethora of functionalities alongside beautiful aesthetics - the dovecote is very artistic as well as, practical. This 8 meter high cylindrical Tower with 3 floors has around 4,000 nesting spaces to attract & keep migratory birds. A giant bowl of water was designed to attract the birds to the roof of the Tower.

 

Despite first impressions, this beautifully restored Tower was not military in purpose but dedicated to something altogether more prosaic: it is a Pigeon house, a giant roost for the collection of guano. The farmers had found out that the birds' dropping could be used as a rich fertilizer in agriculture. It was a precious commodity before the introduction of chemical equivalents, so the more Pigeons that could be induced to take up residence, the better.

 

One of the unique features of the construction is painting a white line around the Tower, which, in addition to helping attract the Pigeons, has prevented Reptiles from penetrating into the Tower. Unique stucco designs inside host an amazing play of light on the interior of the Tower, making it a super-hotspot for all the Photographers!

 

There are also a couple of other interesting sites, if time (& Tour-guide) permits.

 

Meybod Chaparkhaneh dates back to Qajar era & was one of the major Post Offices established on the ancient Rey-Kerman Road. Their mandate was to maintain a few fresh Horses & Messengers to quickly send & transfer important letters & trust properties.  Hence, to offer protection, Chaparkhanehs were built in the form of Castles with high towers, walls & holes for watching & shooting any unauthorised encroachers. This adobe building has now been converted into a Museum. There is also a huge Caravanserai where a few locals operate handicraft shops.

 

But, of most interest is the crumbling Narin Castle, in the centre of town. One of the oldest in Iran, crumbling Narin Castle (or Narein Ghale) rises imposingly above the town that has grown up around it. Constructed on the top of Galeen hill overlooking the city is one of the most important relics of the Province dating back to the to the Sassanid era before the advent of Islam to Iran. It is not only the most significant attraction in Meybod but also one of the oldest adobe constructions in the history of the world’s architecture.

 

Legend has it that the Castle belonged to King Solomon & was built by Jinns (spirits), but whatever the original provenance of the Castle's foundations, most of what can be seen today dates from the Sassanian era.

 

The Narin Ghale was a residential Castle until the early Islamic era & then it was abandoned. The Castle is related to the Sassanid era. However, discovery of pieces of Pottery & Coins, prove that the 15,000 square meter Castle is more than 5,000 years old.

 

This mud brick Parthian (247 BC–224 CE) structure, which has been built in 5 stories on a hill overlooking the town, was used as a military Fortress for most of its life. With fortifications, 5 fences & gates, 4 circular Towers, a deep ditch that was dug around the fortress for security, this construction is so strong that it was practically impenetrable & people probably sheltered at times of war in the residential area which included a Mosque, Bathhouse, a spiral-shaped Governor’s Palace. One of the interesting things about the architecture of the Narin Castle is the underground network of canals which was designed & built for transferring food & goods to the Castle during attacks by invaders. Lying on the Silk Route, the Castle may also have been used by soldiers who provided an armed escort for passing Caravans, charging a tax for their services.

 

The Castle renovated during different eras, is located on the highest hill of the Meybod town offers an interesting view of the town of the town & shows how the growing population of the Citadel spilled beyond the Castle walls. Watchtowers dotted around town until recently, formed the further reaches of the urban area but these have since been breached as new houses stretch into the surrounding desert. Climb to the top for fantastic views across Meybod’s rooftops & into the desert.

 

From here, you will drive a short distance to Chak Chak, a small village perched up on a mountain, beneath a towering cliff face in middle of the desert.

 

Zoroastrianism was the main religion in Iran before the Arab conquest. Numerous Zoroastrians migrated to Yazd after the conquest & so it became the center of Zoroastrianism at that time. Afterwards, many of them migrated to different countries & their numbers decreased. However, this ancient religion is kept alive by the Iranian adherents following their traditional celebrations based on Persian calendar & maintaining their historical costumes & clothing.

 

Chak Chak is the most sacred of the mountain shrines of Zoroastrianism & serves as a pilgrimage point for pious Zoroastrians. Each year during the Mehregan festival from June 14 - 18, many thousands of Zoroastrians from Iran, India & other countries flock to the Fire Temple at Pir-e Sabz. Tradition has it that Pilgrims are to stop riding the moment they catch sight of the Temple & complete the last leg of their journey on foot.

 

In Zoroastrian belief, Chak Chak is where Nikbanou, 2nd daughter of the last pre-Islamic Persian ruler, Yazdegerd III of the Sassanid Empire, was cornered by the invading Arab army in 640 CE. Fearing capture, Nikbanou prayed to God Ahura Mazda to protect her from her enemies. In response to her pleadings, the mountain miraculously opened up & sheltered her from the invaders.

 

Notable features of the village include the ever-dripping spring located at the mountain. Legend has it that these drops are tears of grief that the mountain sheds in remembrance of Nikbanou. Growing beside the holy spring is an immense & ancient tree said to be Nikbanou's cane. Legend also has it that a petrified colorful cloth from Nikbanou was also visible in the rocks, although pilgrims have since removed it.

 

The actual Temple is a man-made grotto sheltered by 2 large bronze doors. The Shrine enclosure is floored with marble & its walls are darkened by fire kept eternally burning in the sanctuary. In the cliffs below the Shrine are several roofed pavilions constructed to accommodate pilgrims.

 

Finally, drive on to your final destination.

 

Arrive at the Zein-o-Din Caravanserai near the city of Yazd, by early evening & Check-in. Balance of the day is at leisure to relax (we shall be happy to offer suggestions, if time permits).

 

Yazd was surrounded by many Caravanserais at the time of the Silk Road but nowadays, unfortunately, most of them have been destroyed with just a few of them left. Caravanserais were roadside Inns where travelers & caravans used to rest & spend the night after day’s journey, communicate with other travelers & even trade some gold, ivory, silk & spice & so much more.  There are 2 important ones which survived & are still in service. 

 

Zein-o-din Caravanserai in an extensive Valley facing the vast desert flanked by mountains, 689 km from Tehran. Converted into a Desert Eco-retreat, sitting on the legendary Silk Route, surrounded by oases & hot springs, it is a building with history, where gold, ivory & spice Traders would hole up & gossip.

 

Historical Caravanserais which hold many stories from the guests who spent a night & continued their journey the next morning, are spread all over Central Asia, especially on the Silk Road route which passed through Iran & connected China to the west. Caravanserais, usually constructed with adobes & earth, are rectangular areas with a central Courtyard surrounded by small rooms for accommodation.

 

Zein-o-din is located on the main trade route between Europe & Asia on the ancient Silk Road. Today, a motorway to Yazd passes through but in earlier centuries, it was reached after a 2 days camel ride (around 60 km) from south of Yazd, on the main road to Kerman in an otherwise vacant desert plain.

 

Zein-o-din's claim to fame is that it is one of the only 2 circular Caravanserais (the other, near Isfahan, is largely destroyed) built in Iran in the 16th century & it continues to function as a Traveller's Lodge. It is one of 999 such Inns that were built to withstand inclement weather, during the reign of Shah Abbas I to promote trade & provide facilities to weary Travelers. According to history books, the Zein-o-Din Caravanserai was built in honor of Shah Abbas’s visit to the region for meeting Ganj Ali Khan, the Governor of Kerman during the 10th century Hijri. This construction was used as an accommodation for the gunners & the military guards.

 

Fenced by 5 brick Towers that are attached to the 8 meter high walls, which has resulted in a unique shape of architectural plan, the Caravanserai is a 2 storied structure, square in plan, with a courtyard & a water pool. Utterly enchanting, unlike anywhere else you have been before. An "atmospheric & fascinating" place for those with the imagination to muster days of yore with camels grumbling outside the door, a night's stay here offers a haunting glimpse of a caravan Traders’ life on the Silk Road.

 

This 400 year old rounded brick Caravanserai has been charmingly restored, tastefully decorated to accommodate Travelers the same way it did when it was active on the trans-Asia trade routes. Its recent renovation took 3 years to complete & included the use of 13,000 pumice stones to remove the grime on the interior walls to make it look as it would have, originally. The Caravanserai's exterior view appears like a "derelict ruin" though its interior is well furbished in its original form. It was awarded the UNESCO Citation for best renovated building in 2006.

 

After passing the entrance gate on the south of the building & the Hashti (the vestibule or a small space leading to a larger space), visitors enter the round space which is originally a dodecagon surrounded by brick-made porticos leading to the small rooms, where travelers stay. The Hashti is continued by 2 long corridors that pass behind the rooms. These corridors were used as horse stables.

 

The room on the north side - Shah Neshin (a room assigned to the Kings & Governors) - is characterized by its high ceiling & ornaments including Karbandi & Stucco works. Other parts inside the building are decorated with brickworks which is beautifully laid out based on the dodecagon shape of the construction.

 

Restored to a near original state, the narrow rooms are built on raised wooden Platforms. Accommodation is simple: the raised rooms offer mattresses on top of carpets & there is no door separating the rooms from the corridor, with only a thick curtain providing privacy to the occupants. There are 2 types of well-ventilated rooms, 32 in total & the entrance of the rooms around the central Courtyard are ornamented with well-formed arches. Smaller ones inside along the main corridor & other spacious ones opening to the courtyard come with beds & private bathroom with a shower.

 

With large wooden doors, vertiginously high ceilings, carpeted brick floors & a couple of wooden steps / ladders up to your raised bed, hidden behind a wall of heavy curtains, it is Harry Potter-gone-Persian. Thick Persian carpets cover the floors and decorate the walls. Clean, yet thin mattress, pillows & blankets are provided on the on the carpeted floor. Everything is delightfully made to evoke the feeling of a Silk Road travel & this is exactly the experience the caravan Traders would have had.

 

Where it differs, however, is in the stylish & crystal clean communal bathrooms upto western standards. Some rooms have a private bathroom with a shower & for the rest, they have Tents sharing the same showers.

 

There is an exquisite dining room where you feast on a selection of sumptuous traditional Persian dishes like chicken with walnuts & pomegranate & bowls of saffron rice.

 

As the Caravanserai is located away from the city, the noise level is minimal & the night skies are clear & star studded. There are 2 Stairways on the sides of the building which lead travelers to the rooftop, where they can enjoy the serene desert landscape, the sunset & the mysterious million-star sky at night.  An amateur Astronomer conducts astronomy lectures on the rooftop. There is nothing but darkness & a light breeze brushing your cheeks & swaying your hair. Sometimes sounds of the cars & trucks passing on the highway would break the silence.

 

With the historical value of the Caravanserai & watching the sunrise & sunset from the top of the building, in the tranquility & the silence of the desert with nothing disturbing the views, you will enjoy the experience of staying at Zein-o-Din

 

If you want to drive out to see the settlements in the vicinity, you can visit Karimabad village. about 20 minutes drive away. There is also the 1800 years old Saryazd Castle on the outskirts of Yazd (but, you are going to Yazd tomorrow, anyway)

 

Overnight.  B D    

 

Day 09 - 22 October Tuesday | Zein-o-din Caravanserai vYazd Drive: 66 km 

Morning, depart for the historical city of Yazd with its winding lanes, forest of Badgirs & mud-brick houses,

situated in the middle of the Iranian plateau in the desert region of Dasht-e Kavir.

 

Reach the Hotel in an hour & Check-in.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’. Failing, you will commence sightseeing immediately after freshening up & Check-in will in the evening.

 

Shortly after, embark on a full day sightseeing tour of this UNESCO World Heritage listed mystical city of Yazd.

 

Every inch a city of the desert originally settled 5,000 years ago with an interesting mix of people, it is located on a flat plain ringed by mountains in the heart of Iran, between the desert region of northern Dasht-e Kavir & southern Dasht-e Lut. Known for its silks & other fabrics and close to the famous ancient Spice & Silk Roads to Central Asia & India, Yazd was where many caravans, traders & travelers passed through for numerous years. It may be hard to believe how a city like Yazd could have survived being in the middle of a harsh desert.  Yet, it is a living example of human survival with limited resources, creating a civilization.

 

The city’s first mention in historic records predate it back to around 3000 years B.C. when it was known by the name of Ysatis, part of the domain of Medes, an ancient settler of Iran. Marco Polo visited Yazd on his way to China & called it the "good & noble city of Yazd".

 

Isolated from any approach by a huge tract of monotonous Desert, the vibrancy of Yazd is invariably a surprise, indeed. Amidst the immense Desert, it retains its sterling of old in religion, traditions & architecture. During the invasion of Genghis Khan in the early 1200’s A.D. it became a safe haven & home for many Artists, Intellectuals & Scientists fleeing their war ravaged cities around Persia.

 

For a brief period, Yazd was the Capital of Atabakan & Mozaffarid dynasties (14th century A.D.). During Qajar dynasty (18th century A.D.) it was ruled by the Bakhtiari Khans. This region has been considered as one of the main historical paths of Iran & has always been given due importance by the governments.

 

It may not have the big-ticket sights of Isfahan or Shiraz, but, with its atmospheric alleyways & centuries of history, it exceeds both in its capacity to enchant & may be intriguing for travelers to know that the city itself is among the most popular tourist attractions of all Iran. The exceptionally traditional & dated architecture as well as its residents’ conservative lifestyle can be a reason.

 

In the course of history, due to its distance from important Capitals & its harsh natural surrounding, Yazd remained immune to major troops' movements & destruction from wars, therefore it kept many of its traditions, city forms & ancient architecture until recently. The city has miraculously escaped the grabby hands of modernization & refurbishment throughout all these years & the geographical features of this region have encouraged the locals to develop special architectural styles that has kept its adobe architecture surprisingly intact. Consequently, most of the older houses are built of mud-bricks with sun-baked domed roofs. The mud bricks served as insulation preventing heat from passing through.

 

It is the first raw adobe city & the 2nd historical city in the world after Venice in Italy. Yazd is a city of different cultures & religions with all inhabitants co-existing peacefully & harmoniously. It is known by various names - the “City of Windcatchers”, “Bride of the Desert”, “Dar al Elm”, “City of Bicycles” & “City of Sweets”.

 

It enjoys an official ‘sister city’ status with Homs in Syria, Jaszbereny in Hungary, Nizwa in Oman, Jakarta in Indonesia, Holguin in Cuba & Yeosu in South Korea.

 

Water was supplied to the city through long underground canals of water, (Qanat system), from high mountainous areas. The Water Channels along with its aged (yet still functional) Badgir (or Wind Catcher or Wind Tower) - a unique Ventilation System on the roof are a distinctive feature of the architecture of this city & is an ingenious way to maintain natural air-conditioning, to make the houses cooler during the hot summer days.

 

Visiting one of these Badgirs will show how the slatted Wind Tower capture the slightest desert breeze, drawing it down to the lower level inside the house where the incoming air is cooled by passing over a small pool of water, before being circulated inside the entire house. Enormous domes starting at ground level would act as protective roofs for deep water-tanks built 6 metres below street level (access to these tanks was by steep staircases). These Wind Towers are seen all over Iran but are most highly developed in Yazd.

 

Zoroastrianism considered as the world's 1st monotheistic religion, was the main faith in Iran before the Arab conquest. Seeking refuge from the invading Arabs, numerous Zoroastrians migrated to Yazd to find a safe haven within the city’s fortified walls & so it became the center of Zoroastrianism at that time. Afterwards, many of them migrated to different countries & their numbers decreased. However, this ancient religion is kept alive by the Iranian adherents (2nd largest Parsi population in the world) following their traditional celebrations based on Persian calendar & maintaining their historical costumes & clothing. There is an elegant Ateshkadeh (Fire Temple) near the city centre that shelters an eternal flame kept alive through centuries.

 

Although the population of Zoroastrians has greatly decreased in Yazd, some parts of it are still inhabited by them.  A walk through their neighborhood during your trip would be meaningful & a wonderful opportunity to meet & socialize with a Zoroastrian family

 

Yazd is famous for its various handicrafts. Always known for the quality of its Carpets, Silk & Cashmere, the city is one of Iran's industrial centers for Textiles. Termeh, a lavish hand-woven cloth synonymous with the city, can only be produced by the traditional hereditary Masters of the craft & requires good-quality wool with long fibers. The final product is a beautiful densely woven cloth with great longevity & comes in many colors & designs. Other handicraft items being produced here are Copper items, Gold & Silver Jewellery, Ceramics.

 

Yazd is also famed for its unique Sweets & Confectionery. Qottab, baklava, cotton candy, noghl & sohan are just some of these sweets that come in various shapes & sizes.

 

Like other cities of Iran, it has both traditional Bazaars & modern Shopping Centers. The precious Khan Bazaar is a historical treasure that showcases parts that date back to 9th century. Architectural charms, high purity gold jewellery & a variety of handwoven textiles that Yazdi artists have been creating for centuries, draw people to this quaint part of the city. As one of the top traditional Iranian Bazaars & the city’s longest, it features a distinct architecture with artistic carved Wooden doors at its oldest section - Qeisarieh located between Khan Square & Khan School.   

 

Yazd warrants a lazy approach - rambling around the maze of historic winding lanes (locally referred to as Yazd's 'historical texture'), popping into random Tea-houses or pausing to work out calligraphic puzzles in the city's exquisite tilework. With its well-preserved Old Town with thatched (mud, straw, brick) houses with Persian architecture, forest of distinctive Badgirs dotted around the skyline & numerous historical sites, it is a 'don't miss' destination. This is a place to wander & get lost in the maze of historic streets & lanes, not to mention your imagination.

 

Commence your full day of ‘guided’ exploration.

 

Yazd is one of the most ancient towns on Earth. With a unique Iranian architecture, the Old Town is a mesmerizing labyrinth, with winding streets that are extraordinarily well preserved; some say that this is one of the oldest continually-inhabited cities in the world. The architecture here is perhaps the most traditionally Persian to be found, preserved by the dry climate & spared the devastations of the Mongols. It is like a phoenix poking out in a baked-brown desert, in a labyrinth of lanes.

 

As UNESCO states it, it is the best place to get a feeling for the region’s rich history. Everything in the city is made from sun-dried bricks & the brown skyline - result of the sun-dried mud color, is dominated by tall Badgirs that can be seen on nearly every rooftop. The residential parts of this city seem deserted as the high walls shield the houses in the narrow lanes (kuches) zigzagging the town.

 

If you take time to wander around the town you will definitely discover simple courtyards, ornate wooden doors & other lovely adobe architecture patterns. Meanwhile, you will be welcomed by numerous children eager to help you out of the maze. To get some fine views, try getting to the rooftops at some point & you will be able to admire vast brown expanses of the desert.

 

First stop will be 14th century Masjed-e Jameh.

 

Yazd has resisted the modern urbanisation changes & has maintained its traditional structure. The Masjed (also known as Friday Mosque) is one of the most splendid attractions in Yazd with its unique architecture featuring Pishtaq (tall entry portals).

 

There is no more impressive gateway in Iran than this great soaring edifice known for its incredible architecture.  The Mosque is witness to Iran’s past wonderful architects with astonishingly perfect knowledge & expertise seen in the masterpieces of Persian & Islamic architecture in this city of mud bricks. Crowned by a pair of lofty minarets, the highest in Iran & the portals facade decorated from top to bottom in dazzling predominantly blue color tile work, it is a particularly fine example of Islamic architecture.

 

Construction began in 1324, continuously developed for 40 years & like many early Mosques, it was built on the site of a Sassanid Fire Temple. This Mosque with its high altitude, blue tiles & tall minarets worked as beacons that can be seen from outside the town & enabled the travellers in the desert to find their way inside.

 

Inside, there is a long-arcaded courtyard where, behind a deep-set southeast Ivan, is a sanctuary chamber which, under a squat tiled Dome, is exquisitely decorated with faience Mosaic: its tall faience Mihrab, dated 1365, is one of the finest of its kind in existence. Exquisite Calligraphy & Mosaic art have been used in abundance & the engrossing beautiful patterns & designs on the corners of the ceiling inside depict the holy name of Ali. The tile work has been skillfully restored & a modern Library built to house the Mosque’s valuable collection of books & manuscripts.

 

The view from the Dome shows the sun-baked roofs & wind towers of the city. The ideal time for taking photos is in the evening when the sun is setting & you can observe the unique scenic view of the Mosque’s azure blue tile works blend with the sun’s ray of range & red colors evanescent into distant horizons.

 

Along a side street to the right was the Vaqt va Saat (Time & Hour) Complex, now the Shrine of Rokn ad-Din, who was responsible for building the complex. The Observatory, the Library & a Madraseh, have all vanished.

 

Other notable Islamic monuments in Yazd are the Seljuk Shrine dedicated to the 12 Shi'ite Imams & the Ziaieyeh Theological School known as Zendan-e-Eskander, or Alexander's Prison. There are also many beautiful old houses in Yazd, among them the Dowlat-Abad Garden, with an 18th century hexagonal house.

 

Although the population of Zoroastrians has greatly decreased in Yazd, presently roughly 10 % of the town's population adhere to this ancient religion. 

 

Though their original Atashkadeh (Fire Temple) was turned into a Mosque when Arabs invaded Iran, a dignified new Temple was inaugurated 1300 years later & is now one of the most significant landmarks of Yazd.

 

Visit the active Atashkadeh located on a hill in a small fruit garden & is surrounded by evergreen trees & a large round pool in the courtyard, which offers a vivid reflection of the Temple for artistic photography. There is also a Photo Gallery & a water pool in the basement connected to Qanats (underground aqueducts supplying drinking water).

           

A couple of paintings, including that of Zoroaster, can be pointed out as another attraction of the place. There exists a winged figure atop the facade as well. This figure is the visual representation of the supreme god of Zoroasterians - Ahura Mazda.

 

The Pilgrims gather for the ceremonies & rituals but nobody apart form the Moubad (Grand Priest), supposedly a direct descendant of the Magi (Zoroastrian God), reciting the Avesta (holy book), has access to the chamber of Moubad-e Moubadan (Saint of Saints) where for the past 1500 years a Fire has burned in a bronze vessel enclosed in a glass enclosure. The ancient Flame here has been kept alive throughout various centuries, relocations & continues to burn today, without a break.

 

The sacred Yazd Atash Behram (as the holy Fire of Victory is known) is one of 9 Atash Behrams - the highest grade of a Fire held within a Atashkadeh - & is considered to be the symbol of the God of Light consequently, makes this the most important Temple attracting adherents from all over the world.

 

The Fires are created from 16 “types” of Flames & this particular Flame is the only one located outside India. The Flame first flickered in the Pars Karyan Atashkadeh & was then relocated to the city of Aqda, where it burned for 700 years. The Fire continued to move around over the years before finally landing in its current home in 1934. This particular Flame in Yazd has burned since 470, from the time of the Sasanian Empire. Today, the sacred Flame is kept alive by a junior Priest called a Hirob (or Moubad), who ritually feeds the Flame with dry wood several times a day, to keep it searing through. For this, the Temple & its surrounding alleyways are doused in the heavenly scent of incense & Boswellia each morning.

 

To enter this Temple during traditional Zoroastrian ceremonies, visitors must follow certain rules that are set into place to respect the Temple’s sacred soul. Men & women must alter their attire & wear white garments to get access to the viewing chamber. Non-Zoroastrians can enter certain areas only.

 

From here, you will proceed to Tower of Silence (Zoroastrian's Dakhmeh or Qaleh-ye Khamushan).  

 

Each ancient culture has its own customs & rituals about death. The name ‘Tower’ is misleading as they consist of huge circular walls on top of 2 hills. There are 3 impressive buildings remaining from several other similar structures on hilltops outside & in the immediate vicinity of the town where the bodies of the dead Zoroastrians would be brought to the foot of the Tower so that a ritual funerary ceremony could be held in presence of the relatives & friends of the deceased.

 

According to a Zoroastrian tradition dating back over 3,000 years, once someone dies, their body can immediately be contaminated by demons & made impure. To prevent this infiltration, Zoroastrians purified the dead body by exposing it to the elements & then carried by the Priests into the Towers of Silence where it was laid on the flat stones on the ground thus avoiding that earth, water & fire, the divine elements to be contaminated, the soul of the defunct person having already been taken by Ahura Mazda. The bodies were arranged in 3 concentric circles. Men were placed in the outer circle, women in the middle & children in the inner-most ring. The bodies were then left to slowly disintegrate & to be picked clean by the vultures.

 

The bleached bones were then thrown into a circular pit in the center of the Tower directly below. After the purification process, the bones were placed by the Priests in Ossuaries near or inside of the Towers. Ossuaries from these rituals have been discovered from the 4th & 5th centuries BC.

 

Similar Dakhmas (Towers) exist just outside of Mumbai, India, as well, although the most prominent “Towers of Silence” are in Iran.

 

As Iran developed & urbanized, Dakhmas became increasingly closer to city limits, severely curtailing their use. The custom largely disappeared throughout the Zoroastrian world around 50 years ago, at about the same time that the eternal Flame was transferred to the newly constructed Yazd Atashkadeh.

 

Since the 1970s, the use of Dakhmas has been illegal in Iran, forcing orthodox Zoroastrians to adapt to new burial methods & the community reluctantly moved to burying bodies beneath concrete to keep out all contaminants in the modern Cemetery at the foot of the Towers.

 

Although they are no longer in use, some of the Towers & Ossuaries in the area, have been opened to the public. Beneath the hill, there are several other disused Zoroastrian buildings including a defunct well, 2 small Badgirs, a kitchen & a lavatory for the visitors.

 

Drive back to the city & enjoy a sumptuous Lunch in a quaint Teahouse (not included - direct payment).

 

Post lunch, visit one of the most iconic features of the city - an architectural wonder & illustration of the ingenuity of ancient civilisations.

 

Proceed to see the Tower of Dolat Abad in a building located inside the 18th century Dolat Abad Garden, a jewel of the city which has the tallest existing Windcatcher in Iran.

 

Iran has an extreme & arid climate and it can get very hot in daytime & considerably cooler at night. Long before electricity & air conditioning were invented, back in Persia, staying cool required ingenuity & Persian Architects came up with an ingenious idea & so Windcatchers were designed & invented. Yazd, one of the largest cities in Iran, has a very hot & dry climate, perfect for this type of cooling device.

 

Many old buildings in Yazd were built with magnificent Windcatchers. Now, it is known as the “City of Windcatchers”. Windcatchers are a traditional Persian architectural design that creates natural ventilation in buildings. The basic design consists of a Tower that rises from a building below, with openings at the top.

 

Your visit here will show how the slatted Towers capture the slightest desert breeze, drawing it down to the lower level where it is cooled by passing over water & circulated through the house. Enormous Domes starting at ground level act as protective roofs for deep water-tanks built 6 metres below street level. People access these tanks by steep staircases.

 

Yazd is also known for having a large network of Qanats, which are underground channels that transfer water from a well to the surface. The Windcatchers & Qanats often worked together to create an amplified cooling effect.

 

Windcatchers work in one of 3 ways. The most common way is to cool the inside of a building. The Tower has openings that face the wind and “catch” it, creating airflow inside the structure. When used in combination with a qanat, air is drawn down into the qanat tunnel & comes in contact with the cooler earth & cold water. The cooled air is drawn up through the Windcatcher, which faces away from the prevailing wind - not only creating airflow, but also cooling the air.

 

In a windless environment, Windcatchers operate like a solar chimney, allowing hot air, which is lighter, to flow upwards & escape out the top of the Tower. Combined with thick adobe walls, Windcatchers are surprisingly effective & able to chill lower-level spaces. Windcatchers can still be found throughout Iran & in several other countries in the Middle East & Persian Gulf.

 

Check out the impressive City Walls & click a couple of photos, as you drive by. In ancient Iran, there were many types of public structures. The 12th 14th century Walls of Yazd city, which are still standing, are perhaps the most interesting, imposing & skillfully planned.

 

You can see some sections of the medieval wall, fortified by a Moat, Towers & Barbicans, now buried deep within a town which has long since expanded beyond its old limits. These walls were built it is said, in 1119, rebuilt & extended during the 14th century. In some places, they were 15 meters high, decorated with ornamental pieces like unglazed pottery.

 

Enough of Mosques & Monuments. Now, we briefly visit another interesting place synonymous with the city - Yazd Water Museum located in a restored Mansion with a visible Qanat running underneath. Yazd is famous for its Qanats (underground aqueducts) & this Museum, one of the best of its kind, is devoted to the brave men who built them.

 

Qanats run through many of the wealthy old houses in Yazd, collecting in pools in basements known as sardob. The Qanats (there are many running through each town) are the reason why the wealthiest districts are always closest to the mountains - to be closest to the freshest water. As the coolest part of the house, these rooms were often beautifully decorated & several fine examples exist & can be seen in some of Yazd's old Mansions that have been converted into traditional hotels today.

 

The Museum offers, through a series of photographs, exhibits & architectural drawings, a fascinating glimpse into the hidden world of Waterways that have allowed life to flourish in the desert. It illustrates the 2000 years that Iran's unique Irrigation System has been in operation & describes the drilling of mother wells (which can reach a depth of 300 meters, such as the Qanat near Mashad) & the use of Water Distribution Clocks (precursor pf the Water Meters you have in your house, which they created 2,000 years ahead). These Clocks (basically a bowl with a hole in the bottom) helped to mark out the 15 - 20 minutes shares of water purchasable by householder or farmer.

 

An interesting item on display are the unique Uniforms of the Qanat builders, an early form of the modern Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) with padded cotton hats & white-coloured clothing that was both luminous in the dark & would act as a shroud in the event of a fatal accident.

 

The last stop before reaching the hotel is at one of the 12 historic Bazaars - definitely worth a visit. The most important ones are Bazaar-e Khan, Goldsmiths Bazaar, Panjeh Ali Bazaar. The Bazaars here are probably the best places in Iran to buy silk fabric, cashmere, brocades & cloth (taffeta & Yazdi shawl) with all the beautiful local designs, motifs, colors, the products which brought the town its prosperity since the time of the legendary Silk Route.

 

Yazd is also a good place for cakes & sweets (Baghlava, Gottab, Pashmak), although quite a lot of the tempting delicacies on display are not actually made in the town.

 

Reach the Hotel by evening & relax as your experience is not over yet.

 

Later in the evening, around 06.30 pm, accompanied by the Tour-guide, enjoy one of the most memorable nights of your life. Proceed to an atmospheric traditional house which is conveniently located in the heart of the Old Town.

 

Beside routine sightseeing of Mosques, traditional Houses or Bazaar, which all have their own specific characters, a night with poetry, passion, music & hilarious anecdotes of Mullah Nasrodin is an attractive option to end the day.

 

Shabneshini (Iranian Night Gathering) is one of Iran’s long-standing memorable traditions for Iranians. For Iranian families, night gatherings have certain customs that symbolise a family reunion.

 

Persian Night is an interactive experience with a family in their home, where you will have the opportunity of becoming familiar with Iran’s traditional music & poetry of a legendary poet who had revitalized the Persian language & culture. You will become familiar with some of the customs associated with the Iranian ‘night gathering’. 

 

Some of the physical elements of Shabneshinis are Korsi (a type of low table with a heater underneath it, and blankets thrown over it), natural snacks such as nuts & dried fruits, drinking tea, reading Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh & most importantly storytelling.

 

Since developing ‘written communication’ humankind has been able to transmit & preserve knowledge throughout the ages in the form of Literature & Poetry which can be considered as an integral aspect of the culture of nations.

 

On arrival, you are greeted with a healthy cold fresh traditional Persian drink. The 3 hour experience begins with playing Persian classical music. You will be fascinated with the live performance by one of the experienced & skilled musicians playing a Setar (a wood & string instrument).

 

Listen to classical Persian music & recitals of legendary poems & reading lines from the “Book of the King” which narrates stories about past Iran with its legendary hero (translated in English). The evening continues with the narration of a number of funny anecdotes of Mulla Nasrudin, a famous Persian character.

 

During short breaks, you will be served delicious & tasty Yazdi cake as well as flavorful aromatic bitter orange blossom tea.

 

Traditional Persian Night experience in Yazd is very authentic due to the experienced friendly & passionate Hosts. Moreover, you may enjoy friendly chats with the Hosts & with other guests of different nationalities who may be there, about Persian culture, customs & traditions.

 

Iranians are known as their hospitality & express their feelings & intense excitement of hosting, preparing a feast for their guests. Following this honorable tradition, your Hosts too, will prepare a real Persian banquet featuring both vegetarian & non-vegetarian cuisine. You will be served a delicious & wholesome 3 course dinner which includes Shooli Soup, Ghormeh Sabzi & Mast-o-Khiar.

 

The evening ends with a sumptuous meal showcasing traditional Persian cuisine followed of course, with the famous Yazdi Cake & tea with citrus aurantium flavor.

 

Transfer back to the hotel.

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 10 - 23 October Wednesday | Yazd vNa’ian vIsfahan Drive: 171 + 143 km 

Yazd is best known for various types of Carpets with charming patterns & for its Textile production. One of the most prominent Textile products of Yazd is a type of luxurious handwoven textile called Termeh - brocaded Silk, Velvet, Blankets & Bed-cloths, among the best ancient Iranian handicrafts.

 

Today, before leaving for Isfahan, discover the practicing of an ancient craft intrinsically liked to Persia.

 

Morning, Check-out & proceed to one of the Termeh Workshop.

 

For more than 400 years, Termeh has been the most sumptuous Iranian handwoven cloth. It was traded throughout the Aryan trade regions, which we know as the Silk Roads. Although some believe that the origin of Termeh is the heart of Central Asia & Kashmir highlands, some others believe that Termeh weaving originated in Iran & then spread out through the Silk Route. However, history shows that the art of weaving Termeh textiles was developed & became popular in the early Safavid period in Isfahan & its evolution took place in the reign of Shah Abbas Safavid when it became one of Persia’s exportable products.

 

This delicate fine cloth had been initially used for royal robes & royal headdresses such as turbans. Intricately designed, Termeh fabrics were favored during the Qajar period for making Robes of Honor, which the Rulers bestowed on members of the Nobility & high ranking officials as a royal favor or award. As such, we can see Termeh Robes in numerous royal portraits.

 

Evolving over time, most of the upper & middle-class people offer it to each other as gifts in weddings & official or family occasions. Good quality traditional handmade Termehs with traditional patterns or textures, are part of a family's heirloom in much the same way as are (the related, identical) Kashmiri scarves. Common products are prayer rugs, scarves, cushion covers, table cloth, mats, curtains, garments, quilt covers, cummerbunds (kammar-band means waistbands).

 

Producing Termeh is a time-consuming process requiring attention & a good taste in choosing harmonic colors & forms in the best way, as Iranian traditional Artists did since ancient times till today. A handmade Termeh is usually made of high-quality natural or synthetic silk & wool fiber & sometimes gold & silver strings are interwoven into this eye-catching textile as part of an embroidered pattern or as a border. The value of a Termeh piece is assessed based on the number of colors, the delicacy of patterns & quality of the textile. In general, the deep dark & modest shades, especially those used for writing texts, consist of natural herbal colors as well as natural materials in different shades of red, red, green, orange, black & turquoise blue.

 

The patterns or motifs generally include various traditional curved schemes. The most common is Paisley (“Botteh Jeghe” in Persian) which has roots in ancient Iranian religion, Mithraism & its footprint can also be found in Carpets & other handicrafts like Ghalamkar textiles. The ‘Botteh’ is accompanied by other figures including cypress tree, fish, birds & delicate floral forms.

 

Sadly or conversely, the production has moved on to industrial scale machines & the craft of weaving by hand is slowly becoming extinct. Once, the current generation passes on, there will be very few Artisans left. Termeh Rezaee Factory Group in Yazd is the largest designer & manufacturer of Terme in Iran with dozens of stores.

 

Spend an hour watching the various stages & the Weavers deft finger work. We suggest you purchase some pieces as memorable Persian souvenir or even heirlooms.

 

Depart from Yazd & continue on your drive towards Isfahan.

 

Stop at Na’ian, a pre-Islamic town, more than 2,000 years old, on the edge of the Central Desert.

 

According to some evidence, Jewish people who emigrated to Iran, built the city of Na'ian under the rule of the Achaemenid Empire while they were enroute to Isfahan. Many local people speak an ancient Pahlavi Sasani dialect that is spoken by the Zoroastrians in Yazd today & Farsi.

 

Besides its magnificent monuments, Na’ian is also famous for high-quality ceramics, carpets & wool textiles & finished clothing like camel-wool cloaks primarily sold in Yazd.

 

Majority of inhabitants are farmers & the main produce is pistachio & pomegranates. Besides its magnificent monuments, Na’in is also famous for high-quality ceramics, carpets & wool textiles & finished clothing like camel-wool cloaks primarily sold in Yazd.

 

Unique to Na’ian are some of the most outstanding monuments in all of Iran: the Jame Mosque, one of the first 4 Mosques built in Iran after the Arab invasion; the Pre-Islamic Narej Fortress; a Pirnia traditional house; the Old Bazaar; Rigareh, a qanat-based watermill & a Zurkhaneh (a place for traditional sport).

 

More than 3,000 years ago, the Persians learned how to construct aqueducts underground to bring water from the mountains to the plains. In the 1960's this ancient system provided more than 70 percent of the water used in Iran & Na’ian is one of the best places in entire world to see these functioning Qanats.

 

See Masjed-e Jameh, whose construction dates back to the 8th century CE, but the whole of the Complex has been constructed in stages. The finely detailed stucco work around the Mihrab (niche) belongs to Ale'Buye in the 11th century. The Courtyard was constructed in the time of the Siljuks (12th century), the basement is believed to be pre-Islamic, which may have been used as a Fire Temple before the Mosque, one of the oldest in Iran, was built on top. The exterior facade & Minaret are beautiful & many parts of the interior are decorated with stucco work.

 

If you stand in the middle of the yard, you will find yourself surrounded by 14 Columns, each one adorned with a unique & intricate pattern of brickwork. Its magnificent plasterwork over the niche, the marvellous brickwork around the yard, are only a few of its features.

 

There is an exquisitely carved wooden Minbar, which an inscription identifies as being 700 years old & an underground Prayer Hall, designed to keep the faithful cool in summer & warm in winter. Alabaster 'windows' set in the ceiling of this dug-out basement allowed natural light to filter down from the courtyard, & access to the Qanat below the Mosque served as the ablutions area. There is a stairway that connects the Mosque to the water channel & to the Chambers above the Pool.

 

Briefly visit a traditional Museum House called Na’ian Pirnia & Ethnographic Museum right next to the Mosque.

 

The traditional Pirnia House belonging to a Governor of Na'ian during the Qajar dynasty, is a perfect example of the desert architecture of the region. It consists of living quarters arranged around a sunken courtyard on 2 levels. When you enter the House & pass the first corridor, you reach an octagonal room called "hashti", which used to be a waiting room for visitors. The rooms to the right from the Entrance immediately catch visitors' attention with their delicate monochrome painted plaster decoration.

 

A few decades ago, the Mansion was purchased by the Ministry of Culture & Art & after renovation in 1994, it was transformed into the Ethnological Desert Museum with an exceptionally fine Collection. Among the most valuable objects on display is 19th century Zoroastrian female clothing with exquisite hand-embroidery.

 

The old Mansion is located opposite the congregational Mosque dating from the Safavid period (1560) & consists of living quarters arranged around a sunken courtyard on 2 levels. When you enter the House & pass the first corridor, you reach an octagonal room called "hashti", which used to be a waiting room for customers & visitors. The rooms to the right from the Entrance immediately catch visitors' attention with their delicate monochrome painted plaster decoration.

 

The murals of the main Hall depict the scenes from the life of Joseph the Beautiful, including the scene of Zaltkhas unsuccessful attempt to seduce him. Beautiful paintings, amazing plastering of Qur'an stories, a book of famous poems & exquisite calligraphy decorate the small Sitting Room next to it. A Teahouse located on the same level as the courtyard is an excellent place to rest after the excursion.

 

Stroll through the old part of the town before sitting down for Lunch (not included - direct payment) in one of the Teahouses. You should try Doogh, a sour drink made from yoghurt, salt & water - sometimes carbonated & sometimes flavoured with mint or other plants. Same as Turkish ayran, it is an acquired taste but will rehydrate you quickly in the heat of Iran's summer.

 

Besides its magnificent monuments, Na’in is also famous for high-quality ceramics, carpets & wool textiles & finished clothing like camel-wool cloaks primarily sold in Yazd.

 

In the Muhammadieh suburb on the outskirt of the town, there are some man-made Caves which locals have named Aba Bafi. The openings of all these Caves face the rising sun & are thought to have been constructed by Zoroastrians who traditionally respect the sources of light.

 

Subsequently, the Zoroastrians migrated elsewhere & Muslim inhabitants moved in & set up loom workshops. Nowadays, the underground wool-weaving workshops support a cottage industry that is over 700 years old, producing by hand the heavy sheep & camel woollen cloaks & rugs (famous among Arab customers).

 

Na'ian’s specialty winter textiles & weaving cloaks by hand is one of the most valuable handicrafts & historical arts of this town. Clothing styles have changed but the heavy cloaks woven from 2 types of sheep & camel wools are still quite famous in some Arab countries. It is possible to buy the handicrafts directly from the Weavers in these underground Workshops.

 

Finally, it is on to Isfahan, perhaps the most beautiful of all Iranian cities.

 

Arrive by early evening & Check-in at the Hotel.

 

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax or independent exploration, if time permits (we will be happy to offer suggestions & arrange for Optional activities).

 

After consolidating his control, Shah Abbas I initiated one of the world's grandest experiments in city planning, moving the Capital from Qazvin to Isfahan in 1598 where it remained until 1722.

 

Isfahan is Iran’s top tourist destination for good reason. 400 years ago, Isfahan was larger than London, more cosmopolitan than Paris & grander, by some accounts, than even storied Istanbul. Elegant bridges crossed its modest river, lavishly outfitted Polo Players dashed across the world's largest Square & hundreds of Domes & Minarets punctuated the skyline. Europeans, Turks, Indians & Chinese flocked to the glittering Persian court, the center of a vast empire stretching from the Euphrates River in what is today Iraq to the Oxus River in Afghanistan.

 

Isfahan's history is an epic cycle of fabulous boom & calamitous bust. Here a road traveling across the Iranian plateau east to the Mesopotamian plain meets a path connecting the Caspian Sea to the north with the Persian Gulf to the south. That geography linked the city's fate to the merchants, pilgrims & armies who passed through. Blessed with a pleasant climate - the city lies at nearly the same altitude as Denver & has relatively mild summers - Isfahan evolved into a bustling township at ancient Persia's crossroads.

 

"One could explore for months without coming to an end of them", marveled British traveler Robert Byron on his 1933-34 journey across Asia. In his 1937 travelogue The Road to Oxiana, he was slightly more geographically specific when he ranked ‘Isfahan among those rarer places, like Athens or Rome, which are the common refreshment of humanity’.

 

It would be another 2 centuries before Isfahan would rise again, under the reign of Shah Abbas I, the greatest Ruler of the Safavid Empire (1501-1722 A.D.). Cruel as Russia's Ivan the Terrible, canny as England's Elizabeth I & extravagant as Philip II of Spain (all contemporaries), Abbas made Isfahan his showplace & after consolidating his control, he transformed the provincial city into a global Metropolis, importing Armenian merchants & artisans and welcoming Catholic monks & Protestant traders. He was generally tolerant of the Jewish & Zoroastrian communities that had lived there for centuries.

 

Most remarkably, Abbas sought to establish Isfahan as the political Capital of the first Shiite Empire, bringing learned Theologians from Lebanon to bolster the city's religious institutions - a move begun by his predecessors that would have profound consequences for world history.

 

The art & crafts thrived in the new Capital; miniaturists, carpet weavers, jewelers & potters turned out ornate wares that enhanced the Mansions & Palaces that sprang up along spacious avenues. He initiated one of the world's grandest experiments in city planning, moving the capital from Qazvin to Isfahan in 1598 where it remained until 1722. Mosques, Palaces, Bazaars & public Parks were built under the Monarch's personal supervision over the next 30 years. Its profusion of tree-lined boulevards, Persian gardens & important Islamic buildings gives it a visual appeal unmatched by any other Iranian city & the many artisans working here, underpin its reputation as a living Museum of traditional culture.

 

Abbas was a man of extremes. A European visitor described him as a ruler whose mood could quickly turn from jolly to "that of a raging lion." Abbas's appetites were legendary: he boasted an enormous wine cellar & a harem that included 100s of women & more than 200 boys. He loved to roam Isfahan's markets, eating freely from stalls, taking whatever shoes on display suited him & chatting with whomever he pleased. "To go about in this way is to be a King," he told scandalized Augustinian Monks accompanying him on one of his jaunts. "Not like yours, who is always sitting indoors!"

 

After a brutal siege shattered that golden age in the early 18th century, new Rulers eventually moved the Capital to Tehran, leaving Isfahan to languish as a provincial backwater, which not incidentally left many of the old city's monuments intact.

 

But, such is the city’s wealth & grandeur that it is easy to agree with the famous 16th century Persian pun & proverb ‘Isfahan nesf-e Jahan (Isfahan is half the world). During the last half of his extraordinary 42 year reign, which ended with his death in 1629, Abbas left behind an urban landscape that rivaled or exceeded anything created in a single reign in Europe or Asia.

 

The French archaeologist & architect Andre Godard, who lived in Iran early in the 20th century, wrote that Abbas' Isfahan "is above all a plan, with lines & masses & sweeping perspectives - a magnificent concept born half a century before Versailles". By the mid-1600s, that plan had filled out into a city that boasted a population of 600,000, with 163 Mosques, 48 Religious Schools, 1,801 shops & 263 public Baths. The elegant main street was 50 yards wide, with a Canal running down the middle, filling onyx basins strewn with the heads of roses & shaded by 2 rows of chinar trees. Gardens graced the Pavilions, which lined either side of the promenade called the Chahar Bagh. "The Grandees were airing themselves, prancing about with their numerous trains, striving to outvie each other in pomp & generosity," remarked one visiting European.

 

As the country’s 3rd largest city is home to some heavy industry, including steel factories & a much-discussed nuclear facility in the outskirts of town. Inevitably, then, traffic jams are a regular occurrence. Despite these modern realities, the inner core of the city remains a priceless gem.

 

Visit one of the famous Tea-house (traditional restaurants) for a sumptuous Dinner.

 

After dinner, accompanied by the Tour-guide, walk on the riverside to the historical Khaju Bridge & stop to listen to local music enthusiasts who come together to sing & practice, under the Bridges.

 

Back to the hotel & relax.

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 11 - 24 October Thursday | Isfahan 

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 08.30 am & proceed for a 6 hour sightseeing tour of the beautiful city of Isfahan, known for its Persian architecture.

 

Walking through the historic UNESCO World Heritage listed Bazaar, over the picturesque Bridges are sure to be highlights of your holiday.

 

Stroll through the huge UNESCO World Heritage listed Naqsh-e Jahan Square (Central Square).

 

4 centuries ago, this Square, which is also called the Maidan, was the economic & political heart of a prosperous & largely peaceful empire that drew foreigners from around the world. "Let me lead you into the Maidan", wrote Thomas Herbert, Secretary of the English Ambassador to the Persian Court from 1627 to 1629, which is "without doubt as spacious, as pleasant & aromatic a market as any in the universe".

 

Measuring 656 by 328 feet, it was also one of the world's largest urban Plazas of that time. But unlike vast concrete spaces such as Tiananmen Square in Beijing or Red Square in Moscow, Naqsh-e Jahan served alternatively & sometimes simultaneously as a marketplace, polo field, social meeting point, execution ground & festival park. Fine river sand covered the Plaza & vendors peddled Venetian glass in one corner & Indian cloth or Chinese silks in another, while locals sold firewood, iron tools or melons grown with pigeon droppings collected from special Towers surrounding the city. Acrobats passed their hats, hawkers called out their wares in several tongues & hucksters worked the throngs.

 

A mast in the middle was used for Archery practice - a horseman would ride past it at full gallop, then turn to shoot down an apple, silver plate or gold cup on top. Marble goal posts that still stand at either end of the Square are reminders of the fierce Polo matches at which the Shah on a heavily bejeweled mount often joined others dressed in fantastic colors & bold plumage.

 

Today the sand, Merchants, Hucksters & Polo Players are all gone, tamed by early 20th century Gardens. Yet the view around the Square remains remarkably unchanged. To the north is a great arch opening into the high vaulted ceilings of a snaking, covered marketplace that stretches nearly a mile.

 

The city's first recorded golden age is traced to the arrival of the Seljuk Turks from Central Asia in the 11th century. They turned the town into their Capital & built the magnificent Square leading to an enlarged 17th century Imam Mosque, with its mosaic tiles & calligraphy covered Dome & Minarets.

 

On the north side is the great arch entrance opening into the high vaulted ceilings of a snaking, covered Royal Qaysariyyeh Bazaar with 100s of shops stretching nearly a mile, displaying the art & handicrafts for which Isfahan is world-famous.

 

Facing each other on the east & west sides of the Square are the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, with its pale brown & blue dome & the Ali Qapu Palace. That structure - dismissed by Byron as a "brick boot box" - is topped by slender columns that turn it into a regal grandstand; bright silk curtains once hung from above to block the sun. The 2 Mosques bend at odd angles to orient toward Mecca, saving the Square from a rigid orderliness, while 2 story arcades for shops define & unify the whole. Constructed between 1603 & 1617, with its exquisite 17th century Persian tile work on the domed ceiling, it served as a private Chapel for the Imperial family. The domed ceiling has the finest faience tilework of 17th century Persia. The inscriptions were executed by Ali Reda Abbasi, the greatest Calligrapher of the Safavid period.

 

When it comes to Architecture & Music, Iranians know how to combine them to make double their impressions. On the west side of the Square is the 16th century Ali Qapu Palace, a charming Pavilion used to receive dignitaries & Ambassadors. Here, the walls are covered with frescos & paintings and the superb wooden roof of the porch is painted with a series of geometrical decorations interspersed with flowers. It has enchanting Music rooms & a balcony overlooking the Maidan, from where the Safavid Kings watched Polo games. In the Acoustic Music Hall, you can hear your voice reverberate in an echo across the length of the Hall. The roof was waterproofed by covering it with a fresh layer of beaten eggs every year, the weight of which has caused many to collapse.

 

On the southern side, the towering portal of the Shah Mosque, a monument to the grand vision of Shah Abbas the Great who died shortly before its completion.

 

See the beautiful Chehel Sotuni Palace, with its exquisite collection of frescos & paintings on tile. Chehel Sotun means ‘40 pillars’ - the number reflected in the long pool in front of the Palace. The reflecting pool magnified the majesty of the Ruler.

 

Built as a pleasure Pavilion & Reception Hall where Shah Abbas II welcomed dignitaries & Ambassadors. Using the Achaemenid inspired talar (columnar porch) style, this beautifully proportioned Palace is entered via an elegant terrace that perfectly bridges the transition between the Persian love of Gardens & interior splendour. The 20 slender, ribbed wooden pillars of the Palace rise to a superb wooden ceiling with crossbeams & exquisite inlay work. Today you are the guests of honor!

 

The only surviving Palace on the royal precinct that stretched between Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square & Chahar Bagh Abbasi St, this Safavid-era complex is reputed to date from 1614. An inscription uncovered in 1949, however, says it was completed in 1647 under the watch of Shah Abbas II. Either way, the Palace on this site today was rebuilt after a fire in 1706.

 

The Great Hall (Throne Hall) is a gem, richly decorated with frescoes, miniatures & ceramics. The upper walls are dominated by historical frescoes on a grand scale, sumptuously portraying court life & some of the great battles of the Safavid era - the 2 middle frescoes (Nos 114 & 115) date from the Qajar period but the other 4 are original. From right to left, above the entrance door, the armies of Shah Ismail do battle with the Uzbeks; Nader Shah battles Sultan Mohammed (astride a white elephant) on an Indian battleground; & Shah Abbas II welcomes King Nader Khan of Turkestan with musicians & dancing girls.

 

On the wall opposite the door, also from right to left, Shah Abbas I presides over an ostentatious banquet; Shah Ismail battles the janissaries (infantrymen) of Sultan Selim & Shah Tahmasp receives Humayun, the Indian Prince who fled to Persia in 1543. These extraordinary works survived the 18th century invasion by the Afghans, who whitewashed the paintings to show their disapproval of such extravagance. Other items, including Safavid forebear Safi od-Din’s hat, are kept in a small Museum.

 

The UNESCO World Heritage listed Palace’s Garden, Bagh-e Chehel Sotun, is an excellent example of the classic Persian garden. An ancient fallen pine resting on a plinth gives a sense of the great age of the garden. The polished noses of the lions on the standing water spouts at the head of the decorative pool hint at this being a favourite spot for a photograph of the Garden's perfect symmetry. Art students have set up a Calico Shop at the Garden's entrance selling Iran's popular printed fabric. On the far side of the Garden is the Tomb of Arthur Upham Pope & his wife Phyllis Ackerman, 2 Americans who were dedicated to the study of Persian art, history & culture.

 

Walk across the Square through the historic Bazaar to the picturesque historical Khaju Bridge, constructed by Shah Abbas II in 1650. It is essentially a bridge superimposed upon a 436 feet long Dam & supported by 24 stone arches. There is a Pavilion located in the center of the structure, inside which Abbas II would have once sat, admiring the view. Today, remnants of a stone seat is all that is left of the King's Chair. It also served a primary function as a place for public meetings & has been described as the city's finest Bridge.

 

Due to regional climate issues, the river is dry most of the time. However, the beautiful bridges that connect the northern & southern parts of the city are always worth a visit. Isfahanis gather around after the sunset under the Bridge to have a little musical get-together; some sing, some play instruments, some dance & some watch to enjoy the festive vibes there.

 

The tour concludes & you return to the hotel.

 

But the day is not over yet. Relax for an hour before meeting the Tour-guide again & proceeding to enjoy an exciting Wellness experience – a visit to an exotic Turkish Hammam.

  

If the Persian Garden as a world heritage is a unique style of Garden design, then the Persian Bath along with its age-old rituals is an important brand of public hygiene in the history of the world. According to excavations, the first Bathhouses were constructed in the time of Jamshid Shah & according to archaeological documents the earliest ruins were found in ancient Chogha Zanbil in Khouzestan province.

 

Cleanliness & hygiene were already important in pre-Islamic Iran & the importance of Bathing in Iranian culture dates back to the era when the state religion was Zoroastrianism. The emergence of Islam played an important part in the development of Bathhouses to the extent that it was considered to be part of a Muslim’s faith.

  

In Islamic Iran, especially in Safavid era, as reported by Jean Chardin in his Travelogue “The Travels of Sir John Chardin”, there were more than 270 public Bathhouses only in Isfahan which not only shows the significance of sanitation but also the high level of urban development of Persia.

 

Traditional Hammams in Iran (or everywhere) have never been a place for personal bathing only; rather they have functioned as a Social forum, a place for communication, relaxation & recreation. In the time when no TV news or social media existed. It was one of the major places for staying up to date with the latest news, passing information & of course, spreading rumours or gossiping. Moreover, a Hammam was a location where many important social & political events took place. Traditional rituals like Hana Bandan (bridal henna party), Hammam-e Zayeman (childbirth bath), Mourning Bath upon the loss of dear ones etc. were / are performed here.

 

Hammams were also used as Wellness Centres for doing traditional medical treatments like massage, bloodletting, cupping & circumcision. Women specifically, often frequented it for relaxation activities like getting a massage or beautifying deeds such as having a haircut, clipping their nails & face makeup in addition to shaving.

 

Join this once in a lifetime experience to hear the history of Iranian cleanliness & traditions and touch the aesthetic beauty of Persian architecture in an underground vaulted Hammam lined with harmonious blue tile work & centred with fountains.

 

Prepare to be soaped by a professional attendant, scrubbed with an indigenous peeling glove (kiseh) & chalk-like material (Sefid-ab) & massaged by a skilled Dallak (masseur) like never before, as they used to do in the centuries before. Soak up the rich Persian culture with a cleaning adventure. Feel extremely clean & reinvigorated after getting rid of the long-lived fatigue & dirt on your body.

 

On arrival, you will welcomed with traditional beverages & Tea, offered an explanation about the Hammam’s history & background & etiquettes to be followed. You will then be guided to your personal Dressing Cubicle (Sarbineh) to undress. You will don a red-coloured Bath Wrap (called Long in Persian) to cover up & slip into sandals. You will be handed a package of your personal bathing supplies (soap, scrubbing mitt, bath-wrap, towels).

 

After washing up & a traditional massage, you will have a scrubbing to slough off your dirt & dead skin by the skilled Dallak. Then, gently soap & relax in the hot water pool & Jacuzzi equipped with water purification system before moving to the cold room, taking shower & being handed your towels to dry out. Getting dressed, feeling great & extremely clean, you will be offered a light snack & drink in Reception Room before being transferred back to the hotel.

 

Later, proceed to a restaurant for a sumptuous dinner.

 

Later, if interested, accompanied by the Tour-guide, you may walk southward on Chahar-bagh to reach Si-o-Se Pol Bridge a great example of Safavid architecture, on Zayandeh River. A popular recreational gathering place, the Bridge was once decorated with erotic paintings, which have since been removed to accordance with the modern day Iran’s Islamic morals & laws.

 

Watch the budding Musicians playing under the Bridge & enjoy tea in a traditional Tearoom.

 

Walk back to the Hotel & relax.

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 12 - 25 October Friday | Isfahan 

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 08.30 am & continue where you left off in discovering this wonderful city.

 

Proceed to the Armenian Quarter to visit the richly decorated Kelisa-ye Vank (Vank Cathedral) - the historic focal point of the Armenian Christian Church in Iran with its dome & walls covered with colorful paintings representing the story of Creation. The exterior of the Church may appear drab, but the interior is richly decorated & shows a mixture of styles - Islamic, Persian & Christian European.

 

The Armenian quarter of Isfahan dates from the time of Shah Abbas I, who transported a colony of Armenian Christians from the town of Jolfa (now on Iran’s northern border) en-masse, under the supervision of Arch-bishop David, as part of his scorched-earth policy in Armenia during the Ottoman War of 1603-1618, to his new Capital - Isfahan & named their village as ‘New Jolfa’ located on the south bank of the Zayandehrud River & linked to the Muslim part of Isfahan by Siosepol bridge. Abbas sought their skills as Merchants, Entrepreneurs & Artists and he ensured that their religious freedom was respected - albeit at a distance from the city’s Islamic Centre. At one time over 42,000 Armenian Christians lived here.

 

The varying fortunes & independence of this Suburb & its eclectic mix of European missionaries, mercenaries & travelers can be traced almost chronologically in the Cathedral's combination of building styles & contrasts in its external & internal architectural treatment.

 

Kelisa-ye Vank, (‘Vank’ means "Monastery" or "Convent" in the Armenian language) widely referred to as an everlasting masterpiece of architecture, today forms the centre of this fashionable area. There are also a number of other Armenian Churches here & an old Cemetery, serving the local Christian community.

 

Also known as the Holy Savior Cathedral or Church of the Saintly Sisters, Kelisa-ye Vank, its construction is believed to have begun in 1606 by the first arrivals & completed with major alterations to design between 1648 & 1664 under the supervision of Archbishop David, with the encouragement of the Safavid rulers.

 

The Cathedral’s exceptionally plain exteriors in relatively modern brickwork may appear drab, contrasting with its elaborately decorated interior featuring a mixture of styles - Islamic, Persian & Christian European with restored wall paintings full of life & colour, including gruesome martyrdoms & pantomime demons. It consists of a domed sanctuary, much like an Iranian Mosque, but with the significant addition of a semi-octagonal Apse & raised Chancel usually seen in western Churches.

 

The Courtyard contains a large freestanding Belfry towering over the graves of both Orthodox & Protestant Christians, placed along the exterior wall before the entrance, with inscriptions in Armenian. The graves include those of Sir George Malcolm, an English army officer, Alexander Decover, Russian Consul & Banker and Andrew Jukes, English Surgeon & Agent of the British government. Graves are also. In one corner of the Courtyard, there is a raised area with a memorial to the 1915 Armenian genocide in Turkey.

 

The interior is covered with fine frescos & gilded carvings & includes a wainscot of rich tile work. The delicately blue & gold painted Central Dome depicts the Biblical story of the creation of the world & man's expulsion from Eden. Pendentives throughout the Church are painted with a motif of a cherub's head surrounded by folded wings typical of Armenian art. The ceiling above the entrance is painted with delicate floral motifs in the style of Persian miniature. 2 sections or bands, of murals run around the interior walls: the top section depicts events from the life of Jesus, while the bottom section depicts tortures inflicted upon Armenian martyrs by the Ottoman Empire.

 

Across the Courtyard, facing the Cathedral, there is a building housing Museum of Khachatur Kesaratsi (Museum of Armenian Culture) displaying numerous artifacts from the history of the Cathedral & the Armenian community in Isfahan. It displays over 700 handwritten books, a historic printing press & the first book printed in Iran, several edicts by Abbas I & his successors condemning & prohibiting interference with, or persecution of, Armenians & their property or affairs, an extensive display of photographs, maps & Turkish documents (with translation) related to the 1915 Armenian genocide in Turkey, migration a variety of objects related to Armenian community in Isfahan such as Safavid costumes, tapestries, European paintings brought back by Armenian merchants, embroidery & other ethnological displays related to Armenian culture & religion.

 

The highlight of the Museum is a fabulous collection of illustrated Gospels & Bibles, some dating back as far as the 10th century. And, appropriate to a City of Miniature Painters, relatively recent gifts to the Museum include one of the world's smallest prayer books & a Prayer written on a single hair that is possible to see only with the aid of a Microscope. There are several carved stones showing scenes from the Bible outside the Museum.

 

See Hasht Bahesht (8 Paradises) Pavilion & Park, built as an official Court & a Reception Hall by Shah Abbas II (1647 AD). The painted ceilings are outstanding.

 

Pause for lunch (not included - direct payment) at any of the several cafes & restaurant at Jolfa Square.

 

For centuries, Isfahan has been a cornerstone of Persian arts & handicrafts. Even though automations is taking a toll, the city is famous as a historical location for a number of hereditary Artisans practicing figurative art in all forms, following the age-old inter-generational traditional processes.

 

Isfahan’s photogenic 17th century Grand Bazaar is a literal Gallery of Art, Architecture & Culture.

 

Wandering around the alleys, walking under the arched & domed passageways will lead you to an attractive handicraft market with a wide range of workshops & art shops showcasing gorgeous Iranian crafts, elaborate Persian carpets & intoxicating aromatic spices.

 

Specialty Crafts being produced here are Mina Kari (Metal Enameling), Qalamzani (Teurotics or Metal Engraving), Messgari (making Copper ware), Monabat & Moarragh (Wood Carving & Wood Mosaic), Qalamkar (Persian Calico), Khatam (Persian Marquetry).   

 

Persians also developed natural & lasting dyes. Cobalt found in Isfahan was exported to China where it was used in the blue on ‘ceramic’ products later nicknamed by the British as ‘China’.

 

Carpet weaving, of course, is the default ‘national’ craft so it is considered ‘almost’ normal to see the Weavers & centers in many cities & villages producing intricate Arabesques, geometric & other floral designs. See notable differences between urban & rural styles. Those who are interested may also visit a carpet shop to sip tea & admire Iran’s most valuable craft & art form.

 

The Persian knot allowed the tight composition to create intricate Arabesques, geometric &d other floral designs. See both City & Tribal carpets. Unlike Arabic Islamic design, Shia Muslims took literally God’s commandment to know Him through His creation. Thus you find figurative art in all forms including Tile, Metalwork & Carpets. Persians also developed natural - and lasting- dyes. Cobalt found in Isfahan was exported to China where it was used in the blue on ceramics known later by the British as ‘China’.

 

Stop by one of the Bazaar’s Teahouses (direct payment - not included) for a refreshment.

 

Isfahan is known for its production of the world-famous "Gaz" a traditional and delicious white nougat (toffee containing a combination of egg whites, sugar, rose water, pistachios, almonds). It makes perfect souvenir for family & friends & you should not miss the opportunity to buy some.

 

From here, proceed to a private Art Gallery to observe a unique heritage craft, found in very few cities of the world. You may also meet a famous Artist.

 

Miniature art & paintings which are also found in Japan, Far East & China, have big fans among Iranian artists, too. The art of miniature painting in Persia flourished from 13th - 18th centuries & developed into a marriage of artistic & poetic languages. The most important function in Persian Miniature was the ‘illustration’. It continues to this day, with several contemporary Artists still producing notable Persian miniatures. In fact, only in Isfahan & Shiraz, can one find Shops selling miniature art. Interestingly, some Artists even paint miniatures on exclusive decorative boxes, tea sets or different vessels made of gold, bronze & copper. which enhances their value & pricing. The Palaces feature excellent Miniatures.

 

The visually stunning intricate miniature paintings, with a level of detail that can only be achieved with a very fine hand & experience, are drawn on white boards using strong magnifiers, special extremely small brushes, thin sheets of camel bones & specialised papers. The paintings are so delicate that even the viewer needs to use a magnifier, to see the details.

 

The price of miniature artwork varies depending on the Artists & their respective levels of skill, the size & theme of the picture. It gave a visual image to a literary plot, making it easier to understand. The ‘themes’ became more limited as time went by. In the 17th century there were mainly love scenes, portraits & some Artists even copied European pictures. In the 18th century, there appeared a new genre of flowers & birds. Visitors, especially from the Western world, are always thrilled to see the amazing works of miniature art & observe the Artists.

 

The tour finishes & you are transferred back to the hotel late afternoon. But the day is not over yet.

 

Around 05.30 pm, accompanied by the Tour-guide, proceed to a cozy family home, where you will have the opportunity to interact with the Host’s family, learn about Persian cuisine, culture & life-style and to participate in a Culinay experience, learning to cook several delicious popular dishes.

 

Meet the effable lady of the house & be ready for an exciting evening, gaining deeper cultural insights & dispelling the ‘official’ myths disseminated in the Western world.

 

Iranians are known for their hospitality & express their feelings & intense excitement of hosting, preparing a feast for their guests. Following this honorable tradition, your Hosts too, will prepare a real Persian banquet featuring both vegetarian & non-vegetarian cuisine.

 

If your Host is not wearing shoes, remove yours at the door. Greet any elders present first before individually greeting everyone with a handshake. Entertaining happens in the Living Room which is usually the most lavishly furnished. Dinner could be at the Dining Table or sitting on the floor.

 

Iran cuisine & culture is yet to be discovered by the wider world, so you be one of the few to learn, experience & taste. Thanks to Iran's place on the Silk Road, the country's cuisine has enjoyed ancient traditions shaping it to its current state. Persian cooking has many features in common with Indian, central Asian, Turkish & Middle Eastern cuisines, yet it has its own particular characteristics & is unmistakably different from any of its counterparts. For instance, while many ingredients of Iranian & Indian food are similar, Indian cuisine is spicier & uses pepper very generously. It is a diversity of tastes & recipes which kept their spirit during the long history of Persia even though the Rulers have come & gone.

 

Likewise, many of the ingredients used in Persian cooking would be familiar to North Americans, but we would be surprised at the unique ways the ingredients are used & the flavors they produce. A good Persian cook has an almost miraculous ability to turn simple ingredients into dishes of great subtlety & beauty.

 

The cuisine is sophisticated & refined enough to hold its own with any of the world’s other great cuisines, but ‘cos of politics, it is hardly known outside the region. A variety of climates, wide range of fruits, vegetables, herbs have resulted into a diverse culinary culture throughout the country.

 

The Chef already has all the required fresh ingredients ready & lined up in the kitchen. After a short introduction & warm-up, you will be introduced to the various stages to prepare & cook the selected dishes, under the able guidance of the Chef. Roll up your sleeves & indulge in the smells, flavours, spices & seasonings which blend with the best techniques prevalent in an Iranian kitchen.

 

Depending on the day, your Host may prepare typical dishes like Khoresht-E Gheimeh (a beef & split pea stew with fried potatoes), Zereshk Polo Morgh (baked saffron rice with barberries & chicken), the famous Khoresht-E Fesenjan (a poultry stew with pomegranates & walnuts), Baghali Polo (a rice dish with lamb, saffron, fava beans & dill), or Ghormeh Sabzi (lamb with herbs & kidney beans, served with rice), Chelo Kabab Koobideh etc.

 

The entire Cooking process consumes almost 2 hours & you spend the time chatting & interacting with the family & setting the Table (normally, Iranian families sit on the floor to eat).

 

And finally, it is time to enjoy your ‘labour of love’. Enjoy the famously warm Iranian hospitality as you tuck into a tasty sumptuous meal (home-cooked & restaurant cooked, same dishes, are completely different in taste) & continue chatting.

 

Now comes the dessert. Most popular & standard at home is Saffron Ice-Cream with Faloode, a cold dessert, consisting of rice noodles mixed in semi frozen rose water & sugar syrup, similar to a sorbet.

 

The evening ends with the serving of Tea. Persian Tea comes in a variety of subtle flavours & its defining characteristic is its deep reddish-brown colour, which tea-drinkers can choose to dilute with water depending on their preference.

 

And now, it is time to say au revoir to your Host & transfer back to the hotel. If interested, you may request the Host to email you the Recipes.

 

Reach the hotel by 10.30 pm.

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 13 - 26 October Saturday | Isfahan vAbyaneh vKashan Drive: 177 + 82 km 

Early morning, Check-out & depart for Kashan. Enroute, stop at Abyaneh, one of the loveliest villages in Iran.

 

The smell of roses in the air, the wind dancing through the willows, cozy little stair-like red houses, people with traditional patterned clothes with their charming accent.

 

Abyaneh is a wonderfully authentic ancient village near Kashan, which takes you back in time as it has kept its originality over hundreds of years - a living Architectural & Anthropological Museum. Set on the slope of the lofty mountain of Karkas (highest in the region), north of Isfahan, surrounded by beautiful valleys with numerous springs & ‘seasonal’ river flows, creating favourable conditions for agriculture.

 

Considering the evidence found in Abyaneh, it dates back to antiquity but its golden age was during the Safavid period. When the Arabs invaded Persia in the 7th century, some followers of the Zoroastrian religion fled to the surrounding mountains & deserts to escape forced conversion to Islam. In a long & narrow Valley in the Karkas Mountains, the Zoroastrians is believed to have founded a string of villages & Abyaneh is one of the last surviving Village of the valley. The ruins of a Sassanid Fort can be seen & archeological excavations are still going on.

 

This ancient Red Village, 2235 meters above the sea level, has largely preserved its culture, language, architecture, costume & traditional rituals over the years, is also famous because of the beautiful reddish color of its soil, due to an unusual high level of iron oxide, which makes it even more distinguished.

 

Abyaneh features red adobe mudbrick houses with lattice windows & fragile wooden balconies clinging to the slope, placed in a step-like structure, meaning that the houses were built in a way that the roof of the lower house is also the yard for the above house, surrounded by beautiful mountains of the same colour, giving the village a vibrant & lively look.

 

The winters are freezing, but summers are refreshingly cool. The ancient Village faces east across a picturesque valley to maximise the sun it receives & minimise the effects of gales that blow in winter. However, it is extremely beautiful with the whitecapped mountains surrounding the Village, contrasting of the deep red clay & the white snow are magical.

 

Although Abyaneh is a popular year-round destination, it is mainly during the summer months that the Village is most lively, filled with tourists & residents returning after winter from different Iranian cities specially Kashan & Tehran where they have migrated to work. In recent years, Abyaneh’s permanent population has dwindled to less than 250 individuals, consisting of mostly old people. The main attraction in Abyaneh are the people.

 

The Village’s remote location & isolation have, however, helped preserve the culture & tradition of its founders. The locals have maintained the traditions, ceremonies & feasts, language & customs dating back to before Islamic times, attracting the attention of visitors. Many elderly residents speak Middle Persian, an earlier incarnation of Farsi, the language of Sassanian Persia, that largely disappeared some centuries ago.

 

The local clothing is another example of great antiquity. The women's traditional costume typically consists of a white long scarf with colourful printed or embroidered floral designs, completely covering their hair & shoulders. They also wear colourful dresses, along with a special pair of pants. In winter, a velvet vest is added to this outfit. Men’s traditional clothes consist of black vest & wide trousers.

 

Abyaneh’s most impressive building is the 11th century Jameh Mosque, with its astonishing ancient carvings & a famous walnut-wood mihrab from Saljukian period. Other places worth a visit include the Zoroastrian Fire Temple, dating back to the Sassanid period, 3 Castles that protected the people from enemy attacks, a pilgrimage site & 2 other smaller Mosques.

 

Spend a couple of hours, exploring the quaint village before continuing on to the final destination, driving for 2 hours along the rural landscape.

 

Arrive in Kashan by afternoon & immediately proceed to enjoy Lunch (not included - direct payment) in one of the famous traditional Kashani Tea-house featuring traditional dishes, including dizi (lamb & vegetable stew pounded to a paste at the table), turshi (pickles) & delicious kashke bademjan (roasted eggplant topped with fermented cheese), etc. etc. amidst the company of friendly locals.

 

Kashan, a delightful oasis city on the edge of the Dasht-e Kavir, is one of the most alluring destinations in Iran, boasting a highly atmospheric covered bazaar, a cluster of architecturally significant 19th century houses. Its charm is also due to the contrast between the parched immensities of the deserts & the greenery of the well-tended oasis.

 

Archeological discoveries in the Sialk Hillocks which lie 2.5 miles west of Kashan reveal that this region was one of the primary centers of civilization in pre-historic ages & boasts numerous historical places. King Shah Abbas I was so enamoured with Kashan that he insisted on being buried here rather than in Isfahan. Other historical figures of note who are associated with the town include Abu Musa al-Ashari, a soldier & companion of the Prophet Mohammed whose army took the town in the 7th century AD. Legend has it that his troops tossed thousands of scorpions from the surrounding desert over the city walls, causing the terrified Kashanis to capitulate.

 

During the Seljuk period (AD 1051-1220), the town became famous for its Textiles, Pottery, Rugs & Tiles, reaching high levels of accomplishment in each of these cottage industries. Currently local Textile artisans are enjoying something of a renaissance of interest in their work, but mechanisation has largely led to the demise of this ancient craft. though still a major production centre for Textiles & Rose Water which is sold at outlets around the main tourist attractions & at dedicated stores in the bazaar.

 

It is also a major centre for the production of textiles & rugs and a great place to stock up on quality souvenirs. The wool for the carpets is usually shorn by local men in spring or autumn & women are mostly in charge of the weaving. In April, one can see the fields of rose bushes outside town in full & fragrant bloom. A great place to stock up on quality souvenirs for friends & family. The most popular time of the year to visit is April, when the fields of rose bushes outside town are in full & fragrant bloom.

 

Post lunch, immediately embark on a 4 hour sightseeing tour of this enchanting ancient city. Visit a couple of the more notable landmarks of Kashan. In the available time (not necessarily all the places listed here).

 

Traditional houses in Iran offer interesting details like the interior & exterior of homes, indicating the different aspect of Persian moral characters in & out of home. Marvel at the 19th century traditional Mansions.

 

A unique feature of the Houses here, is that most entry doors have 2 Knockers, specific to each gender: the round Knocker is for women, the long & thin, phallic Knocker for men, designed to give off different sounds so people inside know if it is a man or a woman at the front door. That was important in a society where women lived in Purdah (not to generally interact with strangers of opposite gender or wear a veil while meeting).

 

First stop is at the historic Borujerdi House, built in 1857 by the famous Architect Ustad Ali Maryam, for the wife of Seyyed Hassan Natanzi Mehdi Borujerdi, a wealthy merchant (who was nicknamed Boroujerdi because of the trade he did with the city of Boroujerd).

 

Legend has it that the Boroujerdi family were seeking the hand in marriage of a girl who came from the affluent Tabatabaei family, for whom Ustad Ali had built the Tabatabaei House some years earlier. The condition set for the marriage was the construction of a house as beautiful as the Tabatabaei house.

 

Boroujerdi House is famous for its unusual shaped 6 sided wind towers which are made of stone, brick, sun baked bricks & a composition of clay, straw & mortar and a large hall decorated with mirrors. The unique features of the House have resulted in a minimal amount of renovation & alteration of the original structure.

 

If time permits, walk from the Grooms house to the Bride’s place. Khan-e Tabatabaei, one of the most beautiful traditional houses of Kashan that was built by Seyyed Jafar Tabatabei, a famous carpet merchant of this city about 200 years ago.

 

It is renowned for its intricate stone reliefs, including finely carved cypress trees, delicate stucco & striking mirror & glass work. The 40 rooms are arranged around 4 courtyards, the largest of which boasts a large pond with fountains, helping to keep the courtyard cool & the 7 elaborate windows of the main courtyard (most houses sport only three or five) are a particular wonder, designed to illustrate the high social status of the owner. Inside, you can see delightful paintings of flowers & birds by the royal painter Kamal-ol-Mulk. From mid-afternoon on most days (depending on the month), sunlight & stained glass combine to bathe some rooms in brilliant colour. 

 

If time permits, you may also see Ameriha House which is the biggest Iranian house with 85 rooms, structured in the form of 3 traditional Units & 5 Courtyards. This Mansion is now converted to a boutique hotel.

 

Next stop will be Masjed-e Agha Borzog. Comprising 4 storeys, including a large sunken courtyard with ablutions pool, an austere dome, tiled minarets & unusually lofty Badgirs (Wind Towers), this decommissioned 19th century Mosque complex is famous for the symmetry of its design. The wooden front door is said to have as many studs as there are verses in the Quran & the mud-brick walls are covered with Quranic inscriptions & mosaics. A fine portal & Mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca) at the rear is particularly noteworthy. While the Mosque is no more in use, the ‘males’ only Madraseh (school) in the sunken courtyard is still operational. Near the Mosque’s entrance is the Khajeh Taj ad-Din, the Tomb of Ghotbs Kashani, a famous mystic of the Qajar period.

 

Drive on to UNESCO World Heritage site Bagh-e Fin in one of the suburbs, passing by elaborate modern Italian style houses that line the road near the garden, evidence that the location continues to attract fashionable Kashanis.

 

Designed for Shah Abbas I in the 16th century, this delightful Garden, which has influenced the planning of Gardens as far afield as India & Spain and is renowned as being the very epitome of the Persian garden & its evocation of heaven. The Garden covers 2.3 hectares with a main yard surrounded by ramparts with 4 circular Towers, spring-fed pools & fountains. The evergreen cypress & old cedar trees in the Garden are up to 500 years old & the profusion of complementary deciduous trees contributes to an ambience that works to please year-round.

 

In contrast to the arid location, the Garden flows with crystal-clear warm water channelled from a natural spring through a series of turquoise-tiled pools & fountains and continuing along the main road in jubs (canals, pronounced ‘joobs’). These were fed from a spring on a hillside behind the Garden & the water pressure was such that a large number of circulating pools & fountains could be constructed without the need for mechanical pumps.

 

The highlights of the Garden are 2 Pavilions built in the later Qajar period: the shotor gelou, a 2 storey pool house sporting an elaborate painted dome of outdoor vignettes (including a semi-naked beauty being surprised in the act of bathing), with water running through the middle of the ground floor & a recreational Pavilion at the rear of the Garden. In the adjoining rooms, stalactite ceilings & coloured glass windows play a role in keeping visitors content with blue, white & green glass chosen to be cool & soothing and to make the room look bigger; in contrast, red, orange & yellow glass has the opposite effect, making the room seem warmer in winter. Interestingly, red & blue combined apparently confuses insects & wards off mosquitoes.

 

Many Iranians head to the Hamaam complex along one side of the Garden, famous as the place where the nationalist Mirza Taqi Khan, more commonly known as Amir Kabir, was murdered. Amir Kabir served as Prime Minister under Nasir od-Din Shah from 1848 to 1851. He was a moderniser who instituted significant change, especially in the fields of Education & Administration, but his popularity was not appreciated in the royal court & the Shah’s mother eventually persuaded her son that he had to go. Amir Kabir was imprisoned in Fin Garden & eventually murdered in the Bathhouse. Inside, Mannequins posed in scenes from the drama form the backdrop of many a selfie taken by those coming to pay homage to a hero.

 

If we have the time, you may see the modest Kashani National Museum, which occupies a small Pavilion in the grounds, is worth a quick visit. It showcases some fine examples of Kashani velvet & brocade and has some Ceramics & Calligraphy on display. A scale model of the Garden helps to show its perfect proportions from an aerial perspective.

 

No visitor leaves the Garden without pausing at the Fin Garden Teahouse, which is set within its own enchanted little Garden. Located near the source of the spring, the current is thick with warm-water-loving fish & shaded with aged trees. The Tea-house speciality is Kashan Barley Soup in winter & Rose Water Ice Cream in summer. Fashionable & of course, wealthier Kashanis are attracted to the elaborate modern Italian style villas that line the side streets around the Garden.

 

Handicrafts showcase the cultural identity, customs & artistic skills of people of a particular land. Exquisite handiworks made by proficient men & women - master artisans - are ever-increasingly becoming popular to adorn houses even in this modern world. Although in today’s start-of-the-art world, everything is done by the leading-edge devices & gadgets to expedite & ease things, hand-made crafts have still maintained their glamor & allure.

 

It is also a major centre for the production of textiles & rugs. The wool for the carpets is usually shorn by men in spring or autumn & women are mostly in charge of the weaving.

 

If there is still time (& strictly at the discretion of the Tour-guide), we may stop enroute at the Handicraft Museum.

 

Even those with minimal interest in Textiles will find this working Museum a fascinating place to visit. Opened to ensure that the traditional craft of producing Kashani Textiles is kept alive, masters work at elaborate hand looms to create intricate wonders of weaving, such as embossed velvet & zarbaft (silk brocade). Given the quality of the silks & the intense labour involved (it takes weeks just to set up the threads on a loom), the Textiles are very costly and are reserved as Museum-quality pieces for display in the Workshop or for gifts to visiting dignitaries.

 

Kashan, a civilized city with its 7,000 year old history, features delicate, admirable handicrafts, some of them are not found anywhere else in the world. Archaeological finds yielded conclusive evidence of the fact that Kashan has been the cradle of many Iranian traditional crafts & it maintained its great importance as a center of traditional industries throughout all historical periods.

 

Visitors can look forward to being surprised by a plethora of crafts presented in kiosks & stalls or even simply by street peddlers. The craftsmen of Kashan have surpassed in carpet weaving, rug making, embroidery, chiseling, metal works, textiles & many other decorative arts. There are Workshops where trainees can learn how to make handicrafts on their own at a professional level. Courses are held either free of charge or at affordable rates.

 

Since the 13th century, when astounded Marco Polo left an effusive account of Kashan textiles, practically every writer has praised fabrics created here in the most enthusiastic terms. Voltaire. the renowned French Philosopher & Writer, emphasized the great importance of Kashan textiles, which could easily compete with the creations of Lyon, the most important French textile manufacturing center. Chardin mentions more than one hundred types of exquisite fabrics produced here in the 17th century, of which valuable brocade, silk & golden velvet pieces were especially in demand.

 

Kashan still has so much to offer for textile aficionados, designers & weavers. For centuries, precious hand-woven silk & velvet fabrics used to be objects of favor for the Rulers & were traded between nations. Now, pieces of these treasures are found in the well-known Museums across the world.  Even those with minimal interest in Textiles will find this Artisan Weavers workshop a fascinating place to visit.

 

Kashan is one of the very few cities where one can still find the Master artisans practicing the art of Shar Bafi (art of making handmade fabric woven from silk) & creating these very delicate & exquisite silk fabrics. When you set foot in the traditional workshop, you feel that you have traveled hundreds of years into the past, both in terms of workshop space & equipment and the older men who work there.

 

Supported by government, to ensure that the craft of producing Kashani Textiles, using the same ancient traditional techniques, is kept alive, master weavers work at elaborate hand looms to create intricate wonders of weaving, such as embossed velvet & zarbaft (silk brocade).

 

If there is still time today (& strictly at the discretion of the Tour-guide), we will be stopping enroute at one of the Shar Bafi Workshop.

 

After being presented with an introduction to & gaining enough rudimentary knowledge about the structure of the loom, you will observe the real weaving techniques for producing this textile. These delicate & exquisite fabrics come in very eye-catching colors with simple or striped patterns. Given the quality of the silks & the intense labour involved, (it takes weeks just to set up the threads on an enormous loom requiring 2 people to operate), the Textiles are very costly & are generally reserved as Museum-quality pieces for display in the Workshop or for gifts to visiting dignitaries. Just to give you an idea, the velvet starts at US$130 per metre & brocade from US$85 per metre.

 

From handicrafts, carpets, fabrics & underlays, tiles, copper, pottery, ceramics to delicious foods with specific recipes & distinctive names, each can be a good souvenir for the time you spent in this beautiful city. Today, it is also more widely known as a major centre for the production of rose water, which is sold at outlets around the main tourist attractions & at dedicated stores in the Bazaar. In April, one can see the fields of rose bushes outside town in full & fragrant bloom.

 

The sightseeing concludes & you are transferred to the hotel.

 

Check-in & relax.

 

Balance of the evening is at leisure (we will be happy to offer suggestions if you want to go out).

 

Overnight.  B D  

Day 14 - 27 October Sunday | Kashan vQom vTehran Drive: 113 + 149 km 

Get up very early today & depart for Tehran. Enroute, stop briefly to explore some more Craft Workshops continuing to produce ancient handicrafts, using the same processes followed by their peers.

 

One of most significant handicraft & unique art form in Kashan is Giveh Bafi (the art of making handmade shoes). While, it is common in many cities of Iran, some cities & regions of Iran are especially known for the production including the village of Naslaj on the outskirts of Kashan.

 

A center of weaving & right next to most houses, there one can find small Giveh Bafi workshops. Giveh are a kind of sturdy cloth shoes / Slop-ons commonly used in arid & warm regions.

 

Little is known about evolution of this craft but most ancient documents indicate its existence since at least the year 1105 in Fars province. Remains of Giveh & tools for making them have been discovered in the area of Pir Shalimar.

 

Giveh making is a small industry in which the outcome of several skilful Craftsmen is put together to create traditional shoes which adapt to the climate of Iran.

 

Made of high-quality fabric, Giveh consists of 2 parts, the ‘upper’ & the sole. The ‘upper’ is usually made from cotton yarn, while the sole is created using textile, leather or plastic. Weaving & sewing of the ‘upper’ portion is exclusively knitted by women in their homes, using a knitting needle called “Javaldooz”. But, it is men that prepare the soles in workshops because it needs more strength & lots of skill.

 

This process is time consuming & consequently most giveh makers prepare the sole by using old second-hand worn tyres, which has led to a decline in the sole making business.

 

Suitable for arid & mountainous climates, Giveh has some unique features. Almost weightless, it decreases the sweating of the feet. In the past, Giveh did not have specific sizes, only general approximation of small, medium & large. It does not have a left foot or right foot, both are exactly the same. Due to ease of use, light weight, durability & artistic weaving, Givehs were more popular with the rural folks & now lately catching on as a fashion statement in the city, too. White is the default or most commonly used colour.  However, the craftsmen experimented with colors like blue, red or black or at buyer’s request. Sometimes women incorporated string & colored glass beads while weaving the ‘upper’. The flat Ajideh Giveh is more expensive & of higher quality & so, favoured by the landowners.

 

Spend an hour observing the intricate art before driving onwards to Qom, a holy city between Tehran & Isfahan

 

Reach Qom (Ghom), by noon & begin your exploration. 

 

It was here that the first tremors of the Islamic Revolution were felt, back in 1963, when a rising star of the clerical establishment, Ruhollah Khomeini, made a fiery speech attacking the Shah over his US-backed reform programme. Khomeini was able to use the unparalleled network of Mosques & religious centres across Iran to spread his message & mobilise the masses.

 

The present town dates back to ancient times & its pre-Islamic history can be partially documented. Excavations at Tepe Sialk indicate that the region had been settled since ancient times & more recent surveys have revealed traces of large inhabited places south of Qom, dating from the 4th & 1st millennium BC.

 

Qom, entrenched in centuries of history, is the 2nd holiest city after Mashhad in Iran & the entire Middle East. Non-Muslims are allowed entry to the city but they are not allowed entry in the holy Shrine unless accompanied by a Muslim companion or Tour-guide.

 

Qom is the largest center for Shi'a scholarship in the world & is a significant destination of pilgrimage, with around 20 million + pilgrims visiting the city every year, the majority being Iranians but also other Shi'a Muslims from all around the world. Many historical books consider Qom the cradle of Islamic knowledge & studies.

 

Hozeye-Elmiye-Qom is the largest Theology School in Iran. Shiite scholars & students come from across the world to browse in its famous religious Bookshops & study in its over 50 Madrasehs (Seminaries). There is the Feyze Seminary where devout Muslims gather to meet & hear speeches from the religious leaders. There are separate Seminaries for women & non-Shia students & most teach their students modern Social Sciences & Western thought as well as traditional religious studies. The number of Research Institutes & Libraries exceed over 250+. The Mar'ashi Najafi Library which has over 500,000 handwritten texts from previous centuries.

 

It is home to the magnificent ancient Shrine of Hazrat Fatima-e Massummeh, the daughter of 7th Shia Imam, where Shia pilgrims from all over the world come to pay homage.

 

Many senior ranking Clerics of Shia Islam & those who have ruled the country since 1979, live in Qom & its proximity to Tehran has allowed the clerical establishment easy access to monitor the affairs & decisions of state. Many Grand Ayatollahs maintain offices in both cities. Substantial sums of money in the form of alms & Islamic taxes flow into Qom.

 

Qom Space Center is one of the 2 places where the Iranian Space Agency launches its sub-orbital Shahab-3 Ballistic Missiles.

 

Qom has developed into a lively industrial center owing in part to its proximity to Tehran. The city gained additional prosperity when oil was discovered at Sarajeh near the city in 1956 & the large Abadan Refinery was built. Pipelines for the distribution of Petroleum, ancillary products, Natural Gas & crude Oil run through to regional centers on the Persian Gulf.

 

Qom is one of Iran’s fastest-growing cities & the population growth has at least brought new life to the old centre. Since the Revolution, the clerical population has risen from around 25,000 to more than 45,000 & the non-clerical population has more than tripled to about 700,000.

 

Hip new Boutiques display life-size female mannequins in flashy evening dresses that would have attracted police attention just a few years ago. Some of Qom's real-life women can also be seen in tighter & more colourful clothes, even if the religiously-preferred black "chador" cloak remains the most common form of attire. Locals are conspicuously pious & travellers are reminded of the need to be mindful of the city's religious nature when visiting. Discreet behaviour & dressing conservatively is particularly appreciated. 

 

Some of the notable places you may visit (depending on the time & discretion of the Tour-guide) include the magnificent Qom Handicraft Museum in a historical century old house belonging to Qajar noblemen.

 

An interesting place nearby is the Qom-Technqiue Factory, a Crafts Center where you can learn about ancient Iranian jewelry.

 

You may also visit a Kharmohre (or fortune bead) family Workshop to learn about the wonders of this ceramic, also called the "Persian Blue Beed", that has become an integral part of Middle Eastern culture. The turquoise is believed to bring good luck & protection. The Kharmohre ceramic is a 6,000 year old Persian handicraft legacy that has been kept alive at its birthplace, the city of Qom.

 

Listen to the story of its mysterious accidental discovery & the popular beliefs behind its intense colour, long perceived as supernatural. Get familiar with the tools & materials & observe skilled craftspeople in action to learn about the techniques, materials, production process & use of "kilns"

 

Then, you are invited to make your own Kharmohre beads in the workshop. Participate in a part of the production process by crafting, with your own hands, the Kharmohre paste during an unforgettable workshop session.

 

The most popular souvenir of Qom is Sohan, a traditional Persian saffron brittle toffee. In addition, this city produces very beautiful handicrafts like Giveh Chini (weaving traditional Iranian Shoes).

 

The Qom exploration ends & you continue on your drive to Tehran with 1 more Stop enroute.

 

Stop at the Mausoleum of Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, in the Behesht-e Zahra (the Paradise of Zahra) Cemetery, located on Tehran’s outskirts.

 

When future generations look back on the historical periods of Iran, the early years of the Islamic Republic will be remembered as a time of great endeavour on the building front. This, the resting place of His Holiness Imam Khomeini, is the grandest of those endeavours. Construction commenced in 1989 following Khomeini's death on June 3 of that year. It is still under construction, but when completed will be the centerpiece in a complex spread over 5,000 acres housing a Cultural & Visitor Center, a University for Islamic Studies & a Seminary, at a reported cost of US$2 billion.

 

A place of pilgrimage for followers of Khomeini, it is used symbolically by Government figures & is on occasion visited by foreign Dignitaries. Khomeini's grandson Ayatollah Seyyed Hassan Khomeini is in charge of caring for the Mausoleum.

 

Reach the Hotel in Tehran by evening & Check-in.

 

Balance of the day is at leisure to relax or for independent exploration (we shall be happy to offer suggestions, in case you want to walk around).

 

Overnight.  B D 

Day 15 - 28 October Monday | Depart Tehran at  ??? 

Alas, like all good things, the wonderful experience comes to an end & it is time to say au revoir.

 

5,000 years of cultural influences flowed into ancient Persia from the Far East, Arabia, Russia & Europe. Whilst from afar, modern Iran is dominated by the singular might of Islam, the culture here is every bit as rich & varied as its history suggests. One can travel through this fascinating country from the Caspian Sea up in the north to the Persian Gulf in the very south to discover former royal Cities, colorful Bazaars, ancient Ruins, fascinating Nomads, Islamic Architecture & shimmering Deserts, magnificent Mosques, ancient Caravansaries, impressive rock Tombs of the ancient Persian Empire.

 

Boasting gorgeous landscapes & rich tapestry of ancient cultures, traditions, religions, kept alive in the many scenic local villages & the city bazaars. Together with the atmospheric Tea-houses, bustling bazaars, deserts punctuated by historic oasis, rugged mountain ranges & the remnants of an enlightened Civilisation illustrated by 24 UNESCO World Heritage listed sites (& many more yet to be listed) gives Iran more than its fair share of fantastic places to see. 

 

History aficionados can soak in the legends of ancient Temples & imposing Fortresses, dating from early civilisations. Art enthusiasts can admire the innovative Mosque designs & ancient mountain relief paintings.

 

Even considering Iran’s abundance of worthy sights, travellers, particularly North Americans, are most impressed with the warmth of open-minded Persians & really discover what life is like - away from politics & newspaper headlines. Interacting with well educated, friendly locals, often curious about the West & keen to show the best of their country, foreign guests in Iran are guaranteed endless cups of tea, spontaneous gifts & home invitations.

 

Whether relaxing in a Teahouse in Tehran or breaking bread with nomads on the harsh Iranian plateau, the warmth & hospitality of the Iranians is endearing & the profound beauty of their land is mesmerizing. Iran lures with a colorful bouquet of architectural masterpieces & unique natural wonders & a journey here is a chance to peel away the layers of a country with a serious image problem. Beyond the stereotypes, you will experience a country desperate to be seen for what it is, rather than what it is perceived to be.

 

So, you see, you have much more to discover if you come to mystical Persia ‘again’ & we will of course, look forward to be able to facilitate that.

 

“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller” - Ibn Battuta

 

In time, you will be met by a Journeys Rep, who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to Terminal? – Tehran Imam Khomeini International Airport for your onward flight.  B

 

 .

***        End of Services      ***

 

  

 

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Mystical
Persia… prepare to be charmed 

Ladies on the Persia Trail

What is included: 

Inclusions
  • Transfers to / from Hotel / Airport & City Tours / Excursions by air-conditioned vehicle *
  • Services of a Journeys Rep for assistance on all Arrival / Departure Transfers
  • Services of English speaking local Guides for all Sightseeing Tours / Excursions as per Itinerary*
  • Porterage at Airport / Hotels
  • Accommodation for a total of 14 nights in the selected hotels (Double occupancy)
  • Meals as per itinerary (B=Breakfast, L=Lunch & D=Dinner)
  • Entrance Fees at the Monuments, as indicated 
  • Dinner at a Family Home in Tehran
  • Visit to Artists’ Forum & Interaction with an Artist in Tehran
  • Visit to a Pateh Workshop & Interaction with the Artisans in Kerman
  • Visit to a Beauty Salon & a ‘Nail Treatment’ or ‘Henna Tattoo’ (Standard Package) in Shiraz
  • Shabneshini Experience with a Family in Yazd
  • Visit to a Termeh Workshop & Interaction with the Artisans in Yazd
  • Hammam Wellness Experience (Standard Package) in Isfahan 
  • Visit to a Miniature Art Gallery & meeting with Artists in Isfahan
  • Interactive Cooking Workshop at a Family Home in Isfahan
  • Visit to a Shar Bafi & Giveh Bafi Workshops & meeting the Artisans
  • Visit to a Kharmohre Workshop in Qom
  • Internal flight – Tehran Kerman, as indicated
  • Visa Support (Assistance will be provided with Iran Visa Application, processing takes 4 - 6 weeks)
  • Rechargeable SIM Card (Voice & Data) to enable connection with friends & family 24/7
  • All Government Taxes & Service Fees, wherever applicable
  • Bottled Water during Tours / Drives
  • Farewell Gift
  • 24 / 7 Emergency Contact 
Excludes
  • International flights
  • Airport Tax, if any
  • Visa or Visa Fee (Assistance will be provided with Iran Visa Application, processing takes 4 - 6 weeks)
  • Camera / Video Fees, wherever applicable, at the Monuments
  • Items of personal nature i.e. Room Service, Laundry, Telephone Calls, Internet, Fax, Beverages, Medical or Evacuation Expenses, Insurance, Gratuities & Tips
  • Any Meals not specifically listed in the itinerary
  • Any optional Programs / Services
  • Any items not specified under Inclusions 


 

*Seat in Coach. Guaranteed departures with minimum 6 people, arriving on 14th October 2023 or on specific Saturdays. There may be other participants & group size may vary. Participants may come from all over the world & most of them will be English speaking. Private Tours with English speaking Guide & Escort.

 

** Please note that the Program highlights the main attractions that are to be visited each day. The sightseeing tours combine ‘walking’ & driving. Some places you will see from inside, some from outside only. Some Monuments / places may require additional Entrance Fees to be paid for accessing some of the areas.

 

*** It is extremely rare that Programs need to be changed but it can occur.  We reserve the right to change, amend or alter the Itinerary or sightseeing if required, for example occasionally the tour sequence & duration of time spent in each city can change due to local conditions which are out of our control or due to heavy traffic conditions or bad weather. The Price will not be affected.

 

****Special Conditions, if any, related to specific Tours will be advised in due course.

 

 

 

 

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the-journeys
Mystical
Persia… prepare to be charmed
 

Ladies on the Persia Trail

Where you will stay: 

Ladies on the Persia Trail  

City

Nights

Superior *** 

First Class ****

Deluxe*****

Tehran

3

Iran Sahr

Ferdowsi Grand

Tehran Azadi

Kerman

2

Kerman Pars

Akhavan

Akhavan ****

Shiraz

2

Eram

Chamran Grand

Homa

Zein-o-din.

1

Zeinoldin Car.

Zeinoldin Car.

Zeinoldin Car.

Yazd

1

Moshir Al Mamalek

Parsian Safayieh

Parsian Safayieh ****

Isfahan

3

Aseman

Ali Quapu

Abbasi

Kashan

1

Rose House

Manouchehri House

Saraye Ameriha Boutique

Tehran

1

Iran Sahr

Ferdowsi Grand

Tehran Azadi

 

 

14

 

 

 

 



The Journeys has carefully selected each hotel based on overall quality, location, price, food, service, and cleanliness. All rooms are standard rooms with two beds and private facilities, unless you have specifically requested and paid for an upgrade. Room selection is strictly at the discretion of the hotel management. We reserve the right to make hotel substitutions with those of equal standard due to non-availability of the selected hotels.

 

The hotels here might not conform to the international ‘star’ categorisation. We have envisaged the best possible options available in each city.

 

Check-in time is usually 2:00 pm or later. Check-out time is 11:00 am. If you will be arriving early in the day or departing in the evening, hotels will usually allow you to store your luggage in their luggage room. We will ask at the front desk on your behalf, if the hotel can check you in earlier, or let you stay later.







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Mystical
Persia…time to go is now…

Ladies on the Persia Trail

And last but not least:

 

Departure:

Arrival in Tehran on 14th  October or Your Dates (minimum of 6 guests)

 

Validity:

→ December 2024

 

Prices:

We offer several accommodation choices for this tour. The price varies by selected accommodations. The Itinerary remains unchanged.

 

Exchange rates fluctuate with great frequency. Please contact us for current Pricing and we will respond

within 24 hours. Your personalised Proposal will depict the applicable Price. 

 

Ladies on the Persia Trail

Price Per Person - C$

Superior ***

First Class ****

Deluxe *****

Occupancy - Double

On request

5918.00

On request

    Single  

On request

7099.00

On request

 Triple

On request

On request

On request

 

Supplements

 

 

          Airfare - International*

On request

1500 -  2000

On request

          Internal

Included

Included

Included

          Full Board

T B A, if required

T B A, if required

T B A, if required

          Supplement – Iran Visa

US$ 270.00

US$ 270.00

US$ 270.00

          Miscellaneous

T B A, if required

T B A, if required

T B A, if required

 

 

 

 

 


* Supplements, if applicable, are to be advised at the time of Proposal / Booking.

** Flight timings may involve a pre & / or post tour ‘extra’ night accommodation to be booked at a supplement cost.

*** Airfare fluctuates by the minute & the approximate range listed is for  illustration only. Actual fare to be advised at the time of Booking.

 

 

 

Some important notes

  • Flights are subject to constant modifications / delays and cancellations.  In such cases, we will do all possible to find the best available alternative / solution but will not accept any liability, whatsoever.
  • Our rates only include those items which are specified in the Itinerary / Inclusions.
  • The cost has been calculated on the existing tariffs / conditions and in case of any currency fluctuations or amendment in local Government taxes, or any fuel hike, we reserve the right to revise the tour price accordingly.
  • Our quotations are calculated on base category of accommodation at each property and are subject to modification, if the same hotel / category of room not available at the time of reservation. In that case, we will confirm a superior category of room at a comparable or better hotel and supplement charges, if any, shall be advised accordingly. Final Itinerary will illustrate updated information and / or it would be furnished at the time of confirmation.
  • All prices are per person, based on double occupancy, and subject to availability at the time of booking. The from price reflects the lowest available price at time of publication, which is valid for a specific start date or dates and also based on availability at the time of booking.
  • Room availability is getting saturated due to heavy demands from the tourism industry, international Fairs and Congresses. Due to these constant sold- out situations the hotels are applying the cancellation rules more stringently. Once the reservation is guaranteed, the booking will be subject to full cancellation charges as per our Terms & Conditions (details will be advised at the time of deposit). We strongly recommend obtaining Insurance to protect yourself against any unforeseen scenarios.
  • Additional services including Optionals, if any, can be paid directly by the clients to our local offices. 

 

 

 

 

 

The Journeys strongly recommends that all Guests purchase appropriate Travel Insurance (Trip Cancellation / Interruption & Medical) to cover any eventuality & / or Emergency. Between missed Connections, lost or delayed Luggage, or Medical Emergencies, you want some peace of mind that your travel investment is well protected. No matter who you buy from, please consider purchasing a Travel Protection Plan before you travel. Still unsure? Talk to us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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