Welcome to Enchanting Journeys

The Middle East is a grand epic, a cradle of civilisations & a beautiful, complicated land that is home to some of the planet's most hospitable people. From the gravitas of the Sahara to the blue tiles of Isfahan, this is a region for discerning travellers, for those looking for the story behind the headline & where the bridges between ancient & modern civilisations are everywhere evident. Here, history is not something you read about in books. It was here that some of the most significant civilisations of antiquity rose & fell. It is a story written on the stones that litter the region, from the flagstones of old Roman roads to the building blocks of ancient Egypt & the delicately carved tombs & temples from Petra to Persepolis. This is where humankind first built cities & learned to write and it was from here that 3 great monotheistic religions Judaism, Christianity & Islam all arose.

Its cities read like a roll-call of historical heavyweights: Jerusalem, Beirut, Cairo, Istanbul, Isfahan, Damascus & Baghdad. Aside from ranking among the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, these ancient-modern metropolises are places to take the pulse of a region. It is here too, that you find the stirring, aspirational architecture that so distinguishes the 3 faiths.

Salam & welcome to Islamic Republic of Iran - one of the friendliest countries on earth. the jewel in Islam's crown, combining glorious architecture with a warm-hearted welcome. Land of fire, a journey of flavours, being one of nature – so many metaphors to describe the country.

Little understood & seldom visited by Western tourists, Iran can seem opaque & enigmatic. Many preconceptions are based on its confusion with the Arab world, a fact lost on many in the West & a mistake many in Iran, with its over 2,500 years of Persian history, would probably take issue with.

An essential stop on the Silk Road, the Persian Empire stretched from Greece to India & brought its famously tolerant culture - including early medicine - to a world mired in comparative medieval backwardness. Today's Iran is still a place of bustling bazaars, glorious architecture & mountain villages with a young, friendly & open population. As long as you are not too attached to that glass of wine (curiously, Shiraz was invented here), a visit will take you beyond the rhetoric into one of the world's truly great cultures.

Arrive in the vibrant city of Shiraz one of the most beautiful, historical cities in the world, known as the “Cultural Capital” of Iran, inhabited by different ethnic groups.

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Shiraz Shahid Dastgheib International Airport, subsequent to Immigration & Customs, you will be welcomed by The Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the hotel, help you settle in & provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for the next day.

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes of waiting, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer. Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel, unless advised.

Reach the centrally located hotel & Check-in.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’. If ‘complimentary’ early Check-in is not possible, after you have freshened up, the Tour-guide will commence a brief orientation drive around Tehran.

Balance of the day is at leisure to relax or for independent exploration (we shall be happy to offer suggestions, in case you want to walk around). 

One of the oldest cities of ancient Persia, Shiraz is set in a fertile valley once famed for its Vineyards, which makes it a pleasant place to visit. It is known for Love & Literature and the origin of first samples of Persian Gardens, its unique example of hospitality & warmth of the Shirazi people.  

Celebrated as the heartland of Persian culture for more than 2000 years, Shiraz has become synonymous with Education, Nightingales, Poetry & Wine.

A city of Poets, Shiraz is the birthplace & home to the graves of Hafez & Sa’adi, both resplendently renovated, now major pilgrimage sites for Iranians. The marble Tomb of Hafez, honoring the revered Poet, sits within its own garden. To the east, the Mausoleum of Sa’adi houses the 13^th century Writer’s mosaic-tiled Tomb & an underground Pool.

During spring, the fragrance of flowers, especially orange tree blossoms fill up the air. Its numerous Gardens are extraordinarily beautiful & eye catching and you will have an amazing experience visiting the colorfully painted fabulous religious sites with fascinating architecture, which mesmerizes the visitors.

Shiraz was one of the most important cities in the medieval Islamic world. The first Capital of Fars, some 2500 years ago, was Pasargadae (located near Shiraz). It was also the Capital of Achaemenid King Cyrus, the Great.

There is also Persepolis, the ceremonial 6^th century B.C Capital of his successor, Darius & his son Xerxes with its immense Gateways, Columns & Friezes.  Today, only the ruins of these 2 Capitals remain. Estakhr was another Capital of Fars, established by the Sassanians that lasted until Shiraz finally assumed the role of the regional Capital. The earliest reference to the city, as Tirazis, is on Elamite clay tablets dated to 2000 BC.

In 1724 the city was sacked by Afghan invaders. Shiraz became Capital of the Zand dynasty (1750 - 94), whose founder, the Vakil (Regent) Karim Khan Zand, adorned the old city with many fine buildings, including his Mausoleum (an octagonal tiled kiosk, now a Museum); the Ark, or Citadel (now a prison); the Vakil Bazaar & Mosque. Buildings in the new city include the Persian Church of St. Simon, the Zealot & the University (1945). Shiraz is still the Capital of Fars province & it bears many more historical & ancient attractions and old cities of Persian Empire showing the glory of a nation.

It is also home to splendid Gardens, exquisite Mosques & whispered echoes of ancient sophistication that reward those who linger longer than it takes to visit nearby Persepolis, the area’s major tourism drawcard.

A number of Scientists also originate from Shiraz. Qutb al-Din al-Shirazi, a 13^th century Astronomer, Mathematician, Physician, Physicist & Scientist was from Shiraz. In his manuscript “The Limit of Accomplishment” concerning Knowledge of the Heavens, he also discussed the possibility of Helio-centrism.

In his 1893 book A Year Amongst the Persians, Edward Browne described Shirazis as ‘…amongst all the Persians, the most subtle, the most ingenious, the most vivacious’. And even in Iran, where regional one-upmanship is common, everyone seems to like Shirazis. Shiraz University (formerly known as Pahlavi University), is a well-respected highly ranked public University.

Farsi, the ancient language of Fars (Pars) has evolved to become the official national language of Iran, i.e. Persian. The city, a trading centre for the central Zagros Mountains, is linked to Bushire, its Port on the Persian Gulf.

The traditional crafts popular within the villages & among the tribes around Shiraz consist of inlaid mosaic inlay work of triangular design; silver-ware; pile carpet & kilim weaving.

Modern Shiraz has industries for Cement. Sugar, Fertilizer production, Textile Mills & factories for Wood products, Metalwork, Carpets & Rugs. It is also a major center for Iran's Electronic industries - 53% of Iran's electronic investment has been centered in Shiraz. It is home to a major Oil Refinery & the country’s first Solar Power Plant.

With more than 25 Malls & 10 Bazaars, Shiraz is known as the easiest place for shopping in Iran & the Middle East. At the Persian Gulf Complex, located at the north end of the city, travelers can find the largest Mall in the world in terms of the number of shops.

There are the usual Iranian traffic issues, but the city’s agreeable climate, set as it is in a fertile valley once famed for its Vineyards, makes it a pleasant place to visit. See from outside the famous Tomb of Shah Cheragh, brother of Imam Reza. The Tomb, beautifully lit at night, draws thousands of pilgrims annually & is the principal pilgrimage center in the province of Fars.

Morning at 07.00 am, meet the Tour-guide in the Lobby & embark on a full day excursion to see some of the UNESCO World Heritage listed sites just outside the city.

First stop will be at UNESCO World Heritage listed Pasagadae, the original Capital of the first great multi-cultural Empire in Western Asia. The village of Pasargadae, lying south of the Abarkuh Desert, stands on a lonely, windswept plain surrounded by arid mountains.

The Achaemenid Persian Empire under Cyrus the Great, spanning the Eastern Mediterranean & Egypt to the Indus River, is considered to be the first Empire that respected the cultural diversity of its different subjects. This was reflected in Achaemenes architecture, which blended multiple cultures.

Pasargadae was the first dynastic Capital of the Achaemenid Empire, founded by Cyrus II, the Great, in Pars, homeland of the Persians, in the 6^th century BC. It developed into a city of some significance until it was superseded by Darius I’s magnificent Palace at Persepolis.

The remains of the Palaces, Gardens & the nearby Mausoleum of Cyrus are outstanding examples of the first phase of Achaemenid art & architecture and exceptional testimonies of Persian civilization. Marked by an austere beauty, these ruins of Empire will enthral historians & those with an interest in piecing together the clues of an ancient civilization.

Some people are destined to create, while others are destined to follow. Here lies a man who was both a creator & a visionary, laying the groundwork for human rights. Koroush (or Cyrus the Great), was a person whose futuristic & innovative viewpoints were amazingly ahead of their time. So much so that his ideas have been emulated & reproduced many times throughout history, even centuries & millennia later.

Particularly noteworthy vestiges in the 160 hectare Complex include the Palaces, Gardens, Mausoleum of Cyrus II & Tall-e Takht, an enormous unfinished platform built to one side of a natural hillock. Like the Acropolis in Athens, it may have been intended as a massive fortified plinth to hold Palaces & Temples. This was, in fact, realized later at Persepolis when Cyrus' successors built their Palaces on large plinths somewhat similar to Tall-i Takht.

There is also a royal ensemble of Gatehouse & Audience Halls - all outstanding examples of the first phase of royal Achaemenid art & architecture, an exceptional testimony of the Persian civilization.

King Cyrus built his Tomb here. With a total area of 3,427 square meters, UNESCO World Heritage listed Pasargadae Tomb built on a funerary platform, consists of a vast main Hall containing 30 white stone Columns. The construction material consisted of a large number of black & white stones. There is a doorway on the north, east, & west sides of the Hall. A winged figure with 2 wings pointing to the sky & pointing to the bottom, can be seen in the northern doorway. Whereas, the hands are raised to the sky in a praying motion. His Tomb was apparently built before his death & was meticulously guarded during the Achaemenid Empire.

“Mummify my body & bury me without a coffin because every part of my flesh & Persian soil coalesces”.

Did you know that when Alexander the Great conquered Persia, he ordered the restoration of Pasargadae & the Tomb of Cyrus the Great? He didn’t mean to stay in Shiraz, but out of awe & respect for the Persian King, he ordered the Tomb to be restored & repaired, making sure Cyrus’ resting place is in good shape.

The only edifice in Pasargadae referenced in Greek texts & sources is the Tomb of Cyrus. On his military campaign to Achaemenid land, Aristobulus, one of Alexander’s colleagues, provided the earliest description.

Inscribed on the tablet found within the Tomb, as quoted from Alexander’s book Anabasis: O man, whoever you are & wherever you come from, because I know you will come, I am Cyrus, who won the Persians their Empire. So don’t begrudge me this sliver of earth that covers my skeleton.

The Nowruz (Persian New Year) & Cyrus the Great Day on the 29^th October to commemorate Cyrus, which are held in the vicinity of the Tomb, have long been celebrated throughout Persia. Evidence of the magnificent New Year celebrations held during the Achaemenid Empire has been found in Pasargadae.

After spending an hour here, hop on the vehicle & continue driving on the pre-modern highway to the next point.

Next stop will be at Naqsh-e Rustam, the ancient Necropolis houses the immense rock-cut Tombs of 4 Persian Kings.

The impressive Necropolis that stands as a reminder of the once famous & powerful Achaemenid Persian Empire, which thrived between 500 BC & 330 BC when it was defeated by Alexander the Great. The Complex has been somewhat overshadowed by the nearby ancient Capital of Persepolis, but this royal Necropolis does stand out as a magnificent example of the ancient Persian architecture & art.

The 4 Tombs holding the remains of Achaemenid Rulers, are hewn into the rock at a significant height from the base of the hills & bear the resemblance of crosses, hence the site is locally known as the “Persian Crosses”. Only 1 Tomb has been identified with certainty - the great Persian King, Darius I. Archaeologists believe the other 3 Kings buried here are Xerxes I, Artaxerxes I & Darius II.

At the centre of the Cross, are openings leading to the chamber where the Sarcophagi may have been placed. In fact, it is not known whether the bodies were directly placed in a Sarcophagus inside or if the bones were collected from a Tower of Silence & subsequently placed in the Tombs, in the traditional Zoroastrian ritual.

Above the openings of each Tomb are carvings of royal figures being anointed by God-like creatures. Other rock carvings below the cross-hewn Tombs commemorate various battles that brought the Achaemenid dynasty to prominence. One carving actually seems to predate the Tombs, suggesting that this ancient site had been used by people even before the Achaemenid Persian Empire.

Aside from the Tombs, there is a building in the complex called Ka’ba-ye Zartosht, (Cube of Zoroaster) - a replica of the Zendan-e Solayman (Prison of Solomon) in Pasargadae. It was once thought that this structure was the site of a perennially burning fire common in Zoroastrian Temples, but the lack of ventilation suggests otherwise. Although there is currently no consensus as to the specific use of this structure, it is widely accepted that it served a religious function. On the walls of this building are relatively well-preserved inscriptions in 3 languages.

Drive on but 1 more brush with history before we call it a day.

Stop at UNESCO World Heritage listed Persepolis (also called Takht-e Jamshid), one of the greatest successes of the ancient Achaemenes Empire as well as its final demise.

One of the great wonders of the ancient world, Persepolis embodies not just a grand architectural scheme but also a grand idea. Persepolis was the first Capital of Fars, some 2500 years ago.

The Achaemenid Persian Empire spanning the Eastern Mediterranean & Egypt to the Indus River, is considered to be the first Empire that respected the cultural diversity of its different subjects. This was reflected in Achaemenes architecture, which blended multiple cultures.

It was conceived by Darius the Great who, inherited the responsibility for ruling the world's first known Empire founded by his predecessor, Cyrus the Great.  Darius I started constructing the great metropolis to serve as a summer Capital in around 512 BC. 

Pasargadae was the first dynastic Capital of the Achaemenid Empire, founded by Cyrus II, in Pars, homeland of the Persians, in the 6^th century BC & evolved into a city of some significance until it was superseded by Darius I’s magnificent Palace at Persepolis.

The ceremonial Capital of the Achaemenian Empire of King Cyrus the Great & perhaps one of the country's most beautiful & spectacular archaeological sites surviving today. Darius I who, inherited the responsibility for ruling the world's first known Empire founded by his predecessor, Cyrus the Great, started constructing the great Metropolis to serve as a summer Capital in around 512 BC. Subsequent Achaemenian Kings, including Xerxes I, added their own Palaces over the next 150 years.  The Administrative Center of the Achaemenians was actually at Susa, shifting during the summer to Hamadan while Persepolis was reserved only for ritual celebrations. Persepolis stands on a limestone terrace overlooking the Marvdasht plain at the foot of the Kuh-e Rahmat (Mountain of Mercy).

Embracing tenets such as cultural tolerance & fair treatment of all subjects, Darius sought to reflect these concepts in the design of the magnificent complex at Persepolis, inviting Architects from the furthest corner of the Persian Empire to contribute to its construction. The result is an eclectic set of structures, including monumental staircases, exquisite reliefs & imposing gateways that testified to the expanse of Darius' domain.

The striking point about its architecture is not only about how grand or detailed it is but how delicately it was influenced by the construction art of nations from around the globe. Tiles were brought from Babylon, precious stones from India, Cedrus wood from Lebanon and Lydians & Greeks worked together with Persians to raise hundreds of Columns to the sky. Although, it was the seat of the government of the Achaemenid Empire, the opulent construction was more reflective of it being a venue for Receptions, Festivals & Ceremonies.

In its heyday Persepolis was one of 4 key cities at the heart of an Empire that spread from the Indus River to Ethiopia. Its original name was Parsa & it only acquired its Greek name of Persepolis - meaning both City of Parsa (City of Persia) & Destroyer of Cities - after Alexander the Great’s army sacked the city in 330 BC.

Categorized among the world’s greatest archaeological sites, there are about 15 major buildings, including the Apadana, the Hall of Hundred Columns, the Gate House of Xerxes, the Treasury, the Harem & the private Palaces of the different Rulers. The most important buildings were crowded onto a terrace of natural rock that rises over 9 metre above the plain on 3 sides & is adjacent to a low mountain on the 4^th side.

The Great Porch of Xerxes, flanked by winged bulls of stone, leads you into a massive ruined complex of royal Palaces, Reception Halls, Throne Rooms, Courts & Apartments covered with inscriptions & carvings.

There are remains of a number of Palaces. Some of the outstanding ones are Mirror, Apadana, Tachara which is the most striking with photogenic skilled relief work. Hadish Palace was completed by Xerexes & an unfinished one simple called Palace H.

Another Palace worth visiting (no name) is one with a 100 Columns which was burned down by Alexander. 3 feet of ash covered the floor in some places when it was excavated & many Columns are still visibly scarred by those flames which burned over 2,000 years ago. The ensemble of the city’s majestic approaches, monumental stairways, & annex buildings bear witness of unique quality & to a most ancient civilization.

The most majestic part of Persepolis is the eastern staircase of Apadana with stunning wall carvings showing rows of Persian nobles in formal clothing with headdresses that distinguish them from the Medes in round caps. Exquisitely carved bas-reliefs depict the representatives from all 28 subordinate nations under the rule of Achaemenid Dynasty, bearing gifts to their almighty Ruler - Envoys from as far away as Ethiopia & Armenia, India & Cappadocia.

There are also Ossuaries in the nearby mountains where several Tombs pertaining to the Kings, had been dug intricately. The ancient city was buried years under dust & sand for 100s of years till being accidently discovered. The ruins are reflective of it’s once glorious & majestic past.

Today, the enticing spectacular glory of the ruins of Persepolis reveal both the glory of the Achaemenid Empire & the abruptness of its passing. In order to understand its magnificence & glory, visitors can just walk through the Gate of All Nations & observe the perfectly detailed drawings of the surviving pillars.

Somewhat surprisingly for a city of its size & grandeur, Persepolis is rarely mentioned by any name in foreign records, which focus instead on other Achaemenid Capitals including Babylon, Ecbatana (modern Hamadan) & Shush. This has led some archaeologists to speculate that the existence of the city was kept a secret from the outside world.

After spending a couple of hours here, hop on the vehicle & commence driving back to Shiraz.

Arrive at the hotel in Shiraz by evening.

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax or independent exploration (we will be happy to offer suggestions & arrange for Optional activities).

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 07.30 am & embark on an 8 hour sightseeing of Shiraz - nicknamed the city of “roses & nightingales”.

Shiraz’s vibrant culture of art, craftsmanship & a rich history, is on spectacular display at the iconic 19^th century Masjed-e Nasir Al Molk, one of the most beautiful Mosques in Iran & one of the iconic images most commonly used to define tourism here. From the outside, it might look like an ordinary traditional Iranian Mosque, since its location on the alley, its modest entrance gate, the lack of high Minarets & a giant Dome does not reveal anything about the interior.

The most elegant & photographed pieces of architecture in southern Iran, the "Pink Mosque" with its spectacular rainbow of stained glass & a plethora of exquisite rose-colour tiles blanketing the ceiling & the impressive sight of sun rays passing through the colourful glass showering the Prayer Hall with hues of light, makes it the one of the most beautiful in Iran & may be, the world. The Mosque includes extensive coloured glass in its façade & displays other traditional elements such as the Panj Kase design.

The best time to visit is early in the morning when the Hall & its Persian carpets are illuminated with a kaleidoscope of patterned flecks of light - a magical experience & an irresistible photograph. The Mosque comes to life with the sunrise & the colors dance throughout the day like whirling Dervishes. The smart placement of the windows where the sunlight glints every morning & makes a spectacular drizzle of colourful lights shows its architectural subtlety, reflecting on the ground, walls, the arches & the towering spires. It even reflects on the visitors as if a colorful ball is hit by the first sun ray & has exploded into thousands of butterflies all around.

The splendid building took 12 years to complete (1876-188) &   was built by order of one of the Qajar grandees, Hassan Ali Nasir-ol-Mulk, son of the Ruler of Fars Province at the time, when Iran was taking the first steps of modernization under the influence of Europeans who frequented the country & had a considerable impact on the country’s art, architecture & culture.

Once you enter, the precise architectural symmetry catches your eyes. There is a big rectangular Pool with golden fish in the centre of the Courtyard that reflects the sky & structure on its water. At both northern & southern ends of the yard, there are 2 porches with stunning half-vaults ornamented with colourful tiling & detailed Persian Muqarnas art.

The Mosque is a fine example of the combination of Persian architecture & European tilework. The exquisite pink-coloured tiles with beautiful floral designs are new features - brought by Europeans - added to the geometry-based Persian tilework in which turquoise & other shades of blue were the dominant colours before.

There are 2 Prayer Halls, one on the left side of the Pool (winter Prayer Hall) & the other on its right (summer Prayer Hall). There are 8 arches on the eastern room facade & 7 Orsi windows on the western Hall façade. The ceiling relies on 12 stone Columns that are skillfully carved with tiny Domes between each pair of Columns. The end of this Pillar row leads to a gorgeous altar which completes the splendour of this Praying Room. The skilful use of colourful stained-glass Orsi windows with wooden frames, is different from the stained glass one might see in a Church or a Synagogue. Orsi windows are standard in traditional Iranian architecture, mostly in houses & Mansions but rarely seen with this artistic splendour in a Mosque. 

Next, proceed to the historical Karim Khan-e Zand Complex, one of the most outstanding attractions of Shiraz, built by the Ruler himself, consisting of many attractive ancient monuments. There is a Bazaar full of stores, a Bath-house for getting clean, an amazing Mosque for saying prayers, a Castle as the residential place of the King of Iran, a Garden, a Museum for receiving the foreign dignitaries & a water Reservoir.

The city’s ancient trading Zandiyeh district in is home to several bazaars dating from different periods. The finest & most famous of these is the Bazaar-e Vakil, a cruciform structure commissioned by Karim Khan as part of his plan to make Shiraz into a great trading centre. One of the most atmospheric Bazaars in Iran, especially in the early evening when it is fantastically photogenic. The wide vaulted brick avenues are masterpieces of Zand architecture, with the design ensuring the interior remains cool in summer & warm in winter. Today, the Bazaar, one of the commercial centers at the heart of Shiraz which has still preserved its traditional style, is home to almost 200 stores selling fascinating carpets, handicrafts, antiques, fabrics & clothes, spices & seasonings.

Inside this Bazaar with its great architecture & traditional merchandise, there is an old Caravansary which has been converted into smaller markets named Saray-e Moshir selling beautiful jewelry & priceless gem stones and & Shamshirgarha Bazaar selling tribal handicraft. Outside, you can try Shirazi ice cream & Faloudeh at the traditional Seray-e Mehr Teahouse - an atmospheric little place offering lunch. The Bazaar is best explored by wandering along the atmospheric maze of lanes that lead off the main thoroughfares. Getting lost in the Courtyards, Caravanserais, arched brick Pathways & finding yourself in the domed Chahar-su (intersection of the bazaar) feels like a trip to the past. With every step you take, the scent of the spices, the colors of the fabrics, the shine of the copperware or the charm of Persian carpets, antiques & handicrafts penetrates deeper into your soul.

Walk to Masjed-e Vakil next to the tribal arts arcade. The Mosque from Karim Khan’s time, has an impressive tiled portal, a recessed entrance decorated with Shirazi rose-pink tiles, 2 vast iwans, a magnificent inner Courtyard surrounded by beautifully tiled alcoves & porches. The distinguishing feature of the Mosque, however, is the forest of 48 diagonally fluted columns that support the pleasingly proportioned 75 metres by 36 metres vaulted Prayer Hall, displaying a hypnotic rhythm of verticals & arabesques. The entrance has a portal with great tile works in colors of green, blue & yellow.

The spectacular colossal Mosque has a central Pond inside its yard which reminds the religious people when doing ablution of the temporary world in this transient life when their faces fade away in the reflection of water waves & they attest to the greatest power in the universe that is the Almighty.  Other fine features include an impressive Mihrab & 14 step marble Minbar, carved from a monolith transported all the way from Azerbaijan. Much of the tiling, with its predominantly floral motifs, was added in the early Qajar era.

The next attraction that Karim Khan-e Zand had built in Shiraz was a Vakil Bathhouse in the western part of Masjed-e Vakil & next to Bazar-e Vakil. It used to be a public bath for almost all the people of Shiraz until 90 years ago, when it was converted into a traditional Gymnasium for a while & then the government designated this as a National Heritage Monument to preserve as a replica of a traditional Bathhouse.

Today, Iran Cultural Heritage Organization has made a lot of attempts to renovate some ruined parts of Bathhouse in order to preserve the ancient Persian culture & the Iranian identity. Archaeologists have carefully examined the decorations & architectural details & have concluded that they are inspired by Safavid architecture.

The 1,350 sq. metre Bathhouse is one of the largest traditional Bathhouses in Iran & offers visitors a glimpse of the past around 400 years ago, into the life style of the people of Shiraz. Famous for its aesthetic beauty, it forces its visitors to walk with their heads held high to look at the impressive frescoes on the ceiling. This ancient artwork is discernable for its great magnificence which is hard to find in any other historic Baths. 

The structure is mainly built of brick, gypsum mortar & stone & the entrance portal on the north of the Bathroom is a low doorway connecting to an Anteroom with a slight slope. This technique along with the angled entrance of the rooms was brilliantly applied to trap the heat inside. The Anteroom, decorated with arabesque patterns, leads to a chamber which used to be a Dressing Hall. This octagonal room holds 8 monolithic stone columns supporting the vault. The walls are decorated with stucco molding in floral & geometric patterns. There is a big Pool in the middle & the empty spaces around it were used to hold shoes.

A corridor where the lavatories are situated connects the Dressing Hall to the Heat Room which was meant for people to rest after their bath. Bath time in the days gone by involved more than just cleaning yourself. People interacted with one another chatting, cleaning, grooming, getting massages. So, it is a natural thing in Iran that strangers easily communicate with each other & talk about their lives.

It should be noted that the Bathrooms were not places used merely for cleaning, but also served as a local community centre for different ceremonies like baby shower, marriage proposals, other old marriage traditions. You can get feel of a real ceremony held here by visiting the room dedicated to 'Henna Bandan'. This is a ritual in a traditional Iranian Wedding Ceremony where the relatives put Henna on bride's hands as a symbol of joy & fortune. 

This makes the Bathhouse a great place to get to know Iranian culture. Vakil Bathhouse is a rich Museum of Anthropology. Visitors can find life-size wax figures clad in ‘Long’ (a piece of traditional cloth worn around the waist) in different sections, modeling the traditional stages of bathing, representing the function & some of the customs that used to be held there.

The central Heat Room architectural design is based on a square plan ground with 4 columns in solid rock topped by a canopy of vaults. Hot water canals passed under the floor covered with stones. The dados are in green marble plates imported from Tabriz. There are 2 deep niches with a large stone pool in front of them which were used by nobilities. Particularly remarkable are the plaster designs created in the Qajarid era (1785 to 1925) over the Zand designs. 

Next, proceed to visit Pars Museum near-by.

Small in size but it is a glorious monument built around 200 years ago inside Nazar Garden dating back to the Safavid time, by the order of Karim Khan as one of his royal Project for the ordinary people of Shiraz. It is an octagonal Mansion & a beautiful Pavilion decorated with exquisite tile & brick work & painted roof, that was initially built as a ceremonial meeting place where Karim Khan greeted guests & diplomats.

Influenced by European arts in Iran, the Pavilion was named Kolah-e Farangi (foreign hat). The octagonal shape of the building with its extraordinarily beautiful decorations especially the tiles with floral motifs & birds & flowers depicted on their surfaces, added to the beauty.

In 1943, the building was converted to a Museum to display exquisite items kept inside the glass boxes. Spend time exploring the interesting items related to Persian art, history & architecture. Relics & artifacts from pre-Islamic & Islamic era are exhibited.  It now houses a collection relating to the life of Karim Khan & other historic artifacts relating to the province. There is also a Collection of valuable metals & coins from 4^th millennium B.C. Papier-mache works of Artists from Zand era can be seen, too. There is a Sword that supposedly belonged to Karim Khan Zand. But the most unique object of the Museum is Haftadman Quran, handwritten in Muhaqqaq calligraphy by Ibrahim Sultan, the Timurid Prince, in 9^th century.

Following his Will, Karim Khan Zand was buried in the eastern alcove of the Mansion in 1193 AH.

Depending on the available time, you may also visit 18^th century Arg-E Karim Khan (the Citadel). From the outside, you can see the long & majestic walls of the Castle with crenelations inspired from the ancient city of Persepolis.

Upon entering, cross an octagonal shape Saloon which was meant to protect the privacy of King’s family. There are some small platforms provided for the people who came to visit the King, to rest (or wait for the summons). Crossing the Saloon, you enter into a beautiful stylish Persian Garden with all the relevant elements of a typical Garden i.e. porches, ponds with nice & delicate designs, high roofs with monolithic stone & wooded pillars.

Inside the rooms, you can see decorations of golden floral motifs. Besides, there are colored windows in red, yellow, blue & green to add to the beauty of this residential Palace & also to avoid unwanted insects from entering the rooms. The shape of decorations & the pool and many other things inside the Palace has Toranj-like patterns or citrus fruits. There is also a small wind catcher above the Pond in front of the Pavilion on top of the roof. Across from this Castle on the other side of the street, you can observe a Pavilion & a magnificent building which had been originally constructed for the foreign guests of Karim Khan-e Zand which has now been converted into a Garden & a Museum full of many priceless antiques from the Zandieh, Qajar & Pahlavi eras.

Leaving the Karim Khan-e Zand Complex behind, proceed to see some other notable sights which has made Shiraz famous.

Drive on after spending an hour exploring in the Museum & the next stop will be Aramgah-e Sa’adi, (Mausoleum), resting place of Iran's best-known Poet - a literary giant of the 14^th century. Set in a pleasant Garden, the present Tomb was built in 1952 & replaces an earlier much simpler construction. The grave is inside an octagonal edifice on top of which stands an amazing azure blue dome.

Unlike Hafez (another famous poet), Sa’adi traveled extensively in Iraq & Syria, where he was even taken prisoner by the Crusaders. Upon his return to Shiraz, Sa’di wrote his most famous works, the Bustan (The Orchard) & the Golestan (The Rose Garden), in which moral tales are written either in verse or in a mixture of prose & verse. Sa’adi is said to have died in 1290 at the grand age of 101.

One of Shiraz’s several Shrines, housed in an open-sided Colonnade built during the Pahlavi era, is dedicated to Sheikh Mohammed Shams-ed-Din, simply known as Sa’adi - a Poet who lived & died between 1207 & 1291.

A tranquil place that makes for a pleasant respite from the noise of the surrounding city, the Mausoleum whose walls are inscribed with verses of Sa’adi’s poems, is set amidst generous gardens of evergreens, bitter orange & roses, appropriate to a man who wrote so extensively about flowers. Inside the serene Garden, one can listen to traditional Persian music played on the speakers & enjoy the relaxing environment. There is a beautiful Pond in the yard in front of the Entrance where visitors throw coins in the hope that their wishes would come true. Just like the famous Trevi Fountain in Rome.

Sa’adi has been internationally revered, then & even now by scholars. In fact, he has been immortalised in the United Nations in New York. One of his Poem is written on top of the main Entrance of the United Nations: “Human beings are members of a whole, In creation of one essence & soul. If one member is afflicted with pain, other members uneasy will remain. If you have no sympathy for human pain, the name of human you cannot retain”.

There are the usual Iranian traffic issues, but the city’s agreeable climate, set as it is in a fertile valley once famed for its Vineyards, makes it a pleasant place to visit. See from outside the famous Tomb of Shah Cheragh, brother of Imam Reza. The Tomb, beautifully lit at night, draws thousands of pilgrims annually & is the principal pilgrimage center in the province of Fars.

One more Stop before going back home to the hotel.

Iran is strong links to Islamic jurisprudence. Consequently, we have arranged for you to visit Madrasa Khan, a University imparting knowledge of religious rational sciences as well as conventional subjects. You will have the opportunity to interact with some of the Faculty & students.

The School (Madraseh) of Theology was constructed during the reign of Shah Abbas Safavid, at the beginning of the 17^th century & now bears the name of Allahverdi Khan O'Diladz (also known as Alvardi Khan Georgian), the Governor of Fars during that era.

Khan was a very powerful Iranian General & Statesman of Georgian origin in the Safavid state & Shah Abbas I relied on him. Allahverdi Khan believed that for the growth of Culture & Civilization of a society, elders of Science should be valued & continue to learn & work in their fields.

While he was Governor, being a "modest & chaste man of great forbearance”, he decided to build a full-fledged University to train great Scholars & Scientists in various sciences such as Wisdom, Jurisprudence, Literature, Astronomy, Arithmetic, Geometry, Geology, Zoology, Botany & Chemistry. One of the necessary conditions for the education of the students of this School was to study the intellectual sciences at a time when the teaching of these sciences was frowned upon.

After completing the construction of this magnificent complex, he planned to invite a renowned Iranian Islamic scholar named Mulla Sadra to teach there & administer the School and the Scientist was given full authority to choose his own courses of education.

The entrance Gate also sports beautiful decorations & inside the outer arch, there are beautiful Muqarnas (an archetypal form of integral Islamic architecture, a form of ornamented vaulting). Most mosaics used are red in colour.

In addition, the decor of the large Courtyard of approx. 51.45 meters, with beautiful decorations, an octagonal Swimming Pool & a central Fountain, surrounded by flower Gardens & tall palm trees, dates from the Qadjar period in the 19^th century when art was characterized by a European influence as at that time, the evolving relations between Persia & West were very cordial.

Just above the skillfully tiled beautiful entrance Porch, is the main Hall named Mulla Sadra Hall where the Mulla taught, hence the name. There are 2 Hallways on either side of the Porch that lead to the of approx. 51.45 meters Courtyard. It is interesting to know that the residential School had individual rooms for each student, lined up in the Passageways. At the time of its construction, there were 100 rooms, but now only 70 remain. Throughout the Complex, one can see beautiful Iranian tile art with Quranic verses, painted with all the patterns of flowers, Islamic shrubs, trees, birds & bergamot. You will find the typical atmosphere of the old Iranian schools - surrounded by rooms with a Garden in the middle.

It is said that there were also beautiful Towers on both sides of the School which were destroyed because they overlooked the Citadel of Karim Khan Zand, for security reasons. Today, only the bottom part remains as a relic of the artistic mosaics of their masters at that time.

You will visit the Library on the 2^nd floor & interact with students & teachers here.

The sightseeing concludes & you return to the hotel.

Evening, we have a special treat for the ladies – a beauty treatment at a Ladies only Beauty Parlour.

(Gentlemen can relax in the hotel or if they want to explore, we will suggest options for the available time & then join the Ladies for dinner).

The women, particularly in the bigger cities, are some of the most impeccably & stylishly dressed people you can see (if you are a fashion aficionado, bring some extra cash & treat yourself to a silk scarf or swing coat).

Arrive at the place & you are welcomed by the Owner.

At first, it may be a bit disorientating. The air is thick with hairspray & nail lacquer fumes & Farsi pop pounds from the Stereo. Above a leather couch, a Persian model surveys her Kingdom from a gilded frame. Women of all ages mill about the room reading magazines, wielding brushes & waiting for their hair to set. You will see all the ladies with their hair down, literally. Seeing everybody on the street with a head scarf / hijab & covering your head, too, at first it may seem odd.

Cut? Blow-wave? Pedicure? Nail treatment ? Henna Tattoo ? We have included the standard Nail Treatment or a Henna Tattoo Package with our compliments (if you are interested in any other Service, there would be a supplement which the Tour-guide will advise).

In modern Iran, particularly among city-dwelling middle-classes, visiting a Beauty Salon can be an important part of a woman’s week. It is a social occasion, an opportunity to gather & catch up with friends on the latest news or celebrity gossip (you will be surprised to hear Iranians are obsessed with Kardashians & other western glitterati) like people might do at a Hamaam or a Market or a Pub in Turkey or Peru or Australia or wherever. Indeed, the Salons are abuzz with conversation: low-key chats are exchanged between the girls at the Nail Desks, while across the room others laugh & shout over the Hairdryers & enjoy in general.

Back home, you may not be a Beauty Salon aficionado & may have never had your Nails done, but here, we assure you, it would be an exciting experience amid the safe intimacy of this experience in a Group, consisting of women of varying ages from all over the world, even closer together. You could even get a small ‘henna’ tattoo on your wrist if you want. The girls will show you the designs on an Ipad & you can pick one. 

Beauty Salons aren’t just beneficial for creating a sense of community among local (& visiting) patrons. Since the Revolution, opening a Beauty Parlour - often in the basement or extra room in the house - was a common way for women to gain financial independence. Since then, it has evolved into a booming business as Iranian ladies have quite a preoccupation with beauty (government also offers support programs for Self-employment). Visitors may wonder why women here spend so much on getting their hair done when it will just be covered by a hijab. “Maybe for their husbands in the home. Maybe for when they are among friends, other women or it may just be for themselves. To feel special no matter who can see”.

Iran is also one of the Nose job Capitals. Indeed, Iran has one of the highest rates of Rhinoplasty in the world. Very popular with young people who are obsessed with Kylie Jenner. Instagram & Pinterest. And it is not just the women; men seem to be just as fastidious about their appearance, often travelling from neighbouring nations to benefit from Iran’s thriving Beard Transplant trade.  

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You will gain more insights about Persian culture interacting with the ladies at the Parlour while you wait or get the treatment.

Leave the Salon & proceed for a sumptuous Dinner.

Return to the hotel.

Get up very early today & depart for Yazd by 06.00 am, driving through the countryside across quaint villages.

Enroute, stop at a renowned Eco-resort, frequently mentioned in top travel trade media, to enjoy Lunch.

Arrive at the Zein-o-Din Caravanserai near the city of Yazd, by noon.

Yazd was surrounded by many Caravanserais at the time of the Silk Road but nowadays, unfortunately, most of them have been destroyed with just a few of them left. Caravanserais were roadside Inns where travelers & caravans used to rest & spend the night after day’s journey, communicate with other travelers & even trade some gold, ivory, silk & spice & so much more.  There are 2 important ones which survived & are still in service. 

Zein-o-din Caravanserai in an extensive Valley facing the vast desert flanked by mountains, is 689 km from Tehran. Converted into a Desert Eco-retreat, sitting on the legendary Silk Route, surrounded by Oases & Hot Springs, it is a building with history, where gold, ivory & spice Traders would hole up & gossip.

Historical Caravanserais which hold many stories from the guests who spent a night & continued their journey the next morning, are spread all over Central Asia, especially on the Silk Road route which passed through Iran & connected China to the west. Caravanserais, usually constructed with adobes & earth, are rectangular areas with a central Courtyard surrounded by small rooms for accommodation.

Zein-o-din is located on the main trade route between Europe & Asia on the ancient Silk Road. Today, a motorway to Yazd passes through but in earlier centuries, it was reached after a 2 days camel ride (around 60 km) from south of Yazd, on the main road to Kerman in an otherwise vacant desert plain.

Zein-o-din's claim to fame is that it is one of the only 2 circular Caravanserais (the other, near Isfahan, is largely destroyed) built in Iran in the 16^th century & it continues to function as a Traveller's Lodge. It is one of 999 such Inns that were built to withstand inclement weather, during the reign of Shah Abbas I to promote trade & provide facilities to weary Travelers. According to history books, the Zein-o-Din Caravanserai was built in honor of Shah Abbas’s visit to the region for meeting Ganj Ali Khan, the Governor of Kerman during the 10^th century Hijri. This construction was used as an accommodation for the Gunners & the military guards.

Fenced by 5 brick Towers that are attached to the 8 meter high walls, which has resulted in a unique shape of architectural plan, the Caravanserai is a 2 storied structure, Square in plan, with a Courtyard & a Pool. Utterly enchanting, unlike anywhere else you have been before. An "atmospheric & fascinating" place for those with the imagination to muster days of yore with camels grumbling outside the door, a night's stay here offers a haunting glimpse of a caravan Traders’ life on the Silk Road.

This 400 year old rounded brick Caravanserai has been charmingly restored, tastefully decorated to accommodate Travelers the same way it did when it was active on the trans-Asia trade routes. Its recent renovation took 3 years to complete & included the use of 13,000 pumice stones to remove the grime on the interior walls to make it look as it would have, originally. The Caravanserai's exterior view appears like a "derelict ruin" though its interior is well furbished in its original form. It was awarded the UNESCO Citation for best renovated building in 2006.

After passing the entrance gate on the south of the building & the Hashti (the vestibule or a small space leading to a larger space), visitors enter the round space which is originally a dodecagon surrounded by brick-made porticos leading to the small rooms, where travelers stay. The Hashti is continued by 2 long corridors that pass behind the rooms. These corridors were used as horse stables.

The room on the north side - Shah Neshin (a room assigned to the Kings & Governors) - is characterized by its high ceiling & ornaments including Karbandi & Stucco works. Other parts inside the building are decorated with brickworks which is beautifully laid out based on the dodecagon shape of the construction.

Restored to a near original state, the narrow rooms are built on raised wooden Platforms. Accommodation is simple: the raised rooms offer mattresses on top of carpets & there is no door separating the rooms from the corridor, with only a thick curtain providing privacy to the occupants. There are 2 types of well-ventilated rooms, 32 in total & the entrance of the rooms around the central Courtyard are ornamented with well-formed arches. Smaller ones inside along the main corridor & other spacious ones opening to the courtyard come with beds & private bathroom with a shower.

With large wooden doors, vertiginously high ceilings, carpeted brick floors & a couple of wooden steps / ladders up to your raised bed, hidden behind a wall of heavy curtains, it is Harry Potter-gone-Persian. Thick Persian carpets cover the floors & decorate the walls. Clean, yet thin mattress, pillows & blankets are provided on the on the carpeted floor. Everything is delightfully made to evoke the feeling of a Silk Road travel & this is exactly the experience the caravan Traders would have had.

Where it differs, however, is in the stylish & crystal clean communal bathrooms upto western standards. Some rooms have a private bathroom with a shower & for the rest, they have Tents sharing the same showers.

There is an exquisite dining room where you feast on a selection of sumptuous traditional Persian dishes like chicken with walnuts & pomegranate & bowls of saffron rice.

As the Caravanserai is located away from the city, the noise level is minimal & the night skies are clear & star studded. There are 2 Stairways on the sides of the building which lead travelers to the rooftop, where they can enjoy the serene desert landscape, the sunset & the mysterious million-star sky at night.  An amateur Astronomer conducts astronomy lectures on the rooftop. There is nothing but darkness & a light breeze brushing your cheeks & swaying your hair. Sometimes sounds of the cars & trucks passing on the highway would break the silence.

With the historical value of the Caravanserai & watching the sunrise & sunset from the top of the building, in the tranquility & the silence of the desert with nothing disturbing the views, you will enjoy the experience of staying at Zein-o-Din. 

If you want to drive out to see the settlements in the vicinity, you can visit Karimabad village. about 20 minutes drive away. There is also the 1800 years old Saryazd Castle on the outskirts of Yazd (where you will be staying tonigt). 

Enjoy Lunch & immediately after, continue on your drive to Yazd, an hour away.

Reach the hotel & Check-in.

Relax for an hour & meet the Tour-guide in the Lobby at 03.00 pm (or before) to commence your sightseeing of this iconic ancient city on the erstwhile Silk Route.

Yazd is one of the most ancient towns on Earth, known as the oldest earthen city in the world & the 2^nd most historic city of the world after Venice in Italy. The city’s first mention in historic records predate it back to around 3,000 years B.C. when it was known by the name of Ysatis, part of the domain of Medes, an ancient settler of Iran. Marco Polo visited Yazd on his way to China & called it the "good & noble city of Yazd".

Every inch a city of the desert originally settled 5,000 years ago with an interesting mix of people, it is located on a flat plain ringed by mountains in the heart of Iran, between the desert region of northern Dasht-e Kavir & southern Dasht-e Lut. Known for its silks & other fabrics and close to the famous ancient Spice & Silk Roads to Central Asia & India, Yazd was where many Caravans, Traders & Travelers passed through for numerous years.

For a brief period, Yazd was the capital of Atabakan & Mozaffarid dynasties (14^th century A.D.). During Qajar Dynasty (18^th century A.D.) it was ruled by the Bakhtiari Khans. This region has been considered as one of the main historical paths of Iran & has always been given due importance by the governments.

In the course of history, due to its distance from important Capitals & its harsh natural surrounding, Yazd remained immune to major troops' movements & destruction from wars, therefore it kept many of its traditions, city forms & ancient architecture until recently.

Isolated from any approach by a huge tract of monotonous Desert, the vibrancy of Yazd is invariably a surprise, indeed. Amidst the immense Desert, it retains its sterling of old in religion, traditions & architecture. During the invasion of Genghis Khan in the early 1200’s A.D. it became a safe haven & home for many Artists, Intellectuals & Scientists fleeing their war ravaged cities around Persia.

It may be hard to believe how a city like Yazd could have survived being in the middle of a harsh desert. Yet, it is a living example of human survival with limited resources, creating a civilization.

It may not have the big-ticket sights of Isfahan or Shiraz, but, with its atmospheric alleyways & centuries of history, it exceeds both in its capacity to enchant & may be intriguing for travelers to know that the city itself is among the most popular tourist attractions of all Iran. The exceptionally traditional & dated architecture as well as its residents’ conservative lifestyle can be a reason.

With a unique Iranian architecture, the Old Town is a mesmerizing labyrinth, with winding streets that are extraordinarily well preserved; some say that this is one of the oldest continually-inhabited cities in the world.

The city has resisted the modern urbanisation changes & maintained its traditional adobe architecture surprisingly intact. The geographical features of this region have encouraged the locals to develop special architectural styles. Consequently, most of the older houses are built of mud-bricks with sun-baked domed roof & the brown skyline is the result of the sun-dried mud color. The mud bricks served as insulation preventing heat from passing through.

The architecture here is perhaps the most traditionally Persian to be found, preserved by the dry climate & spared the devastations of the Mongols. It is like a phoenix poking out in a baked-brown desert, in a labyrinth of lanes.

It is the first raw adobe city & the 2^nd historical city in the world after Venice in Italy. Yazd is a city of different cultures & religions with all inhabitants co-existing peacefully & harmoniously. It is known by various names - the “City of Windcatchers”, “Bride of the Desert”, “Dar al Elm”, “City of Bicycles” & “City of Sweets”.

It enjoys an official ‘sister city’ status with Homs in Syria, Jaszbereny in Hungary, Nizwa in Oman, Jakarta in Indonesia, Holguin in Cuba & Yeosu in South Korea.

Water was supplied to the city through Qanats (long underground canals of water)), from high mountainous areas. The Water Channels along with its aged (yet still fully functional) tall Badgir (or Wind Catcher or Wind Tower) - a unique Ventilation System that can be seen on nearly every rooftop, a distinctive feature of the architecture of this city & is an ingenious way to maintain natural air-conditioning, to make the houses cooler during the hot summer days.

Visiting one of these Badgirs will show how the slatted Wind Tower capture the slightest desert breeze, drawing it down to the lower level inside the house where the incoming air is cooled by passing over a small pool of water, before being circulated inside the entire house. Enormous domes starting at ground level would act as protective roofs for deep water-tanks built 6 metres below street level (access to these tanks was by steep staircases).

As UNESCO states it, it is the best place to get a feeling for the region’s rich history. Yazd’s well-preserved Old Town, with winding lanes, distinctive Badgirs, dotted around the skyline & numerous historical sites, makes Yazd essential to any journey to Iran.

Zoroastrianism considered as the world's 1^st monotheistic religion, was the main faith in Iran before the Arab conquest. Seeking refuge from the invading Arabs, numerous Zoroastrians migrated to Yazd to find a safe haven within the city’s fortified walls & so it became the center of Zoroastrianism at that time. Afterwards, many of them migrated to different countries & their numbers decreased. However, this ancient religion is kept alive by the Iranian adherents (2^nd largest Parsi population in the world) following their traditional celebrations based on Persian calendar & maintaining their historical costumes & clothing. There is an elegant Ateshkadeh (Fire Temple) near the city centre that shelters an eternal flame kept alive through centuries.

Although the population of Zoroastrians has greatly decreased in Yazd, some parts of it are still inhabited by them.  A walk through their neighborhood during your trip would be meaningful & a wonderful opportunity to meet & socialize with a Zoroastrian family.

Yazd is famous for its various handicrafts. Always known for the quality of its Carpets, Silk & Cashmere, the city is one of Iran's industrial centers for Textiles. Termeh, a lavish hand-woven cloth synonymous with the city, can only be produced by the traditional hereditary Masters of the craft & requires good-quality wool with long fibers. The final product is a beautiful densely woven cloth with great longevity & comes in many colors & designs. Other handicraft items being produced here are Copper items, Gold & Silver Jewellery, Ceramics.

Yazd is also famed for its unique Sweets & Confectionery. Qottab, baklava, cotton candy, noghl & sohan are just some of these sweets that come in various shapes & sizes.

Like other cities of Iran, it has both traditional Bazaars & modern Shopping Centers. The precious Khan Bazaar is a historical treasure that showcases parts that date back to 9^th century. Architectural charms, high purity gold jewellery & a variety of handwoven textiles that Yazdi artists have been creating for centuries, draw people to this quaint part of the city. As one of the top traditional Iranian Bazaars & the city’s longest, it features a distinct architecture with artistic carved Wooden doors at its oldest section - Qeisarieh located between Khan Square & Khan School.  

The residential parts of this city seem deserted as the high walls shield the houses in the narrow lanes (kuches) zigzagging the town.

Yazd warrants a lazy approach - rambling around the maze of historic winding lanes (referred to locally as Yazd's 'historical texture'), popping into random Tea-houses or pausing to work out calligraphic puzzles in the city's exquisite tilework. With its well-preserved Old Town with thatched (mud, straw, sun-dried brick) houses with Persian architecture, forest of distinctive Badgirs dotted around the skyline & numerous historical sites, it is a 'don't miss' destination.

Wandering around town, in the maze of historic streets & lanes, visitors will definitely discover simple Courtyards, ornate wooden doors & other lovely adobe architecture patterns. You will be welcomed by numerous children eager to help you out of the maze. To get some fine views, try getting to the rooftops at some point & you will be able to admire vast brown expanses of the desert.

First stop will be 14^th century Masjed-e Jame.

Yazd has resisted the modern urbanisation changes & has maintained its traditional structure. Masjed-e Jame (also known as Friday Mosque) is one of the most splendid attractions in Yazd with its unique architecture featuring Pishtaq (tall entry portals).

There is no more impressive gateway in Iran than this great soaring edifice known for its incredible architecture. The Mosque is witness to Iran’s past wonderful architects with astonishingly perfect knowledge & expertise seen in the masterpieces of Persian & Islamic architecture in this city of mud bricks.

Construction began in 1324, continuously developed for 40 years & like many early Mosques, it was built on the site of a Sassanid Fire Temple & is probably the best preserved 14^th century example of Islamic architecture.

This Mosque with its dazzling portals facade decorated from top to bottom in dazzling predominantly blue tiles & crowned by lofty twin minarets, tallest in the country, worked as beacons that can be seen from outside the town & enabled the travellers in the desert to find their way inside.

Inside, there is a long-arcaded Courtyard where, behind a deep-set southeast Ivan, is a sanctuary chamber which, under a squat tiled Dome, is exquisitely decorated with faience Mosaic: its tall faience Mihrab, dated 1365, is one of the finest of its kind in existence. Exquisite Calligraphy & Mosaic art have been used in abundance & the engrossing beautiful patterns & designs on the corners of the ceiling inside depict the holy name of Ali. The tile work has been skillfully restored & a modern Library built to house the Mosque’s valuable collection of books & manuscripts.

The view from the Dome shows the sun-baked roofs & Wind Towers of the city. The ideal time for taking photos is in the evening when the sun is setting & you can observe the unique scenic view of the Mosque’s azure blue tile works blend with the sun’s ray of range & red colors evanescent into distant horizons.

Along a side street to the right was the Vaqt va Saat (Time & Hour) Complex, now the Shrine of Rokn ad-Din, who was responsible for building the Complex. The Observatory, the Library & a Madraseh, have all vanished. Other notable Islamic monuments in Yazd are the Seljuk Shrine dedicated to the 12 Shi'ite Imams, & the Ziaieyeh Theological School known as Zendan-e-Eskander, or Alexander's Prison.

Walk around the maze-like streets through the Amir Chakhmaq Complex - a well-known structure in Yazd, noted for its symmetrical sunken alcoves. It has a Mosque located on a Square by the same name. The Complex also houses a Caravanserai, a Tekieh (a place where religious mourning rituals are held), a public Bath, a cold water well & a Confectionery. At night, the building is lit up after twilight hours after sunset with orange lighting in the arched alcoves making it a spectacular sight.

Proceed to see the Tower of Dolat Abad in a building located inside the 18^th century Dolat Abad Garden, in one of the many beautiful old hexagonal houses in Yazd, which has the tallest existing Windcatcher in Iran.

Iran has an extreme & arid climate and it can get very hot in daytime & considerably cooler at night. Long before electricity & air conditioning were invented, back in Persia, staying cool required ingenuity & Persian architects came up with an ingenious idea & so Windcatchers were designed & invented. Yazd, one of the largest cities in Iran, has a very hot & dry climate, perfect for this type of cooling device.

Yazd is also known for having a large network of Qanats, which are underground channels that transfer water from a well to the surface. The Windcatchers & Qanats often worked together to create an amplified cooling effect.

Many old buildings in Yazd were built with magnificent Windcatchers. Now, it is known as the “City of Windcatchers”. Windcatchers are a traditional Persian architectural design that creates natural ventilation in buildings. The basic design consists of a Tower that rises from a building below, with openings at the top.

Windcatchers work in one of 3 ways. The most common way is to cool the inside of a building. The Tower has openings that face the wind and “catch” it, creating airflow inside the structure. When used in combination with a qanat, air is drawn down into the qanat tunnel & comes in contact with the cooler earth & cold water. The cooled air is drawn up through the Windcatcher, which faces away from the prevailing wind - not only creating airflow, but also cooling the air.

In a windless environment, Windcatchers operate like a solar chimney, allowing hot air, which is lighter, to flow upwards & escape out the top of the Tower. Combined with thick adobe walls, Windcatchers are surprisingly effective & able to chill lower-level spaces. Windcatchers can still be found throughout Iran & in several other countries in the Middle East & Persian Gulf.

Your visit here will show how the slatted Towers capture the slightest desert breeze, drawing it down to the lower level where it is cooled by passing over water & circulated through the house. Enormous Domes starting at ground level act as protective roofs for deep water-tanks built 6 metres below street level. People access these tanks by steep staircases.

Check out the impressive City Walls & click a couple of photos, as you drive by. In ancient Iran, there were many types of public structures. The 12^th - 14^th Walls of Yazd city, which are still standing, are perhaps the most interesting, imposing & skillfully planned.

You can see some sections of the medieval Wall, fortified by a Moat, Towers & Barbicans, now buried deep within a town which has long since expanded beyond its old limits. These walls were built it is said, in 1119, rebuilt & extended during the 14^th century. In some places, they were 15 meters high, decorated with ornamental pieces like unglazed pottery.

The sightseeing ends you transfer back to the hotel for a bit of relaxation.

Enough of Mosques & Monuments. The experience is not over yet.

Later in the evening, around 06.30 pm, accompanied by the Tour-guide, enjoy one of the most memorable nights of your life. Proceed to an atmospheric traditional house which is conveniently located in the heart of the Old Town.

This Iranian hospitality culture roots in an old belief that “guests are God’s friends“. This trait results in the warm interaction of the hosts with the guests, irrespective of who that guest is - a family member or a stranger & is amply illustrated in a luxury hotel in the heart of a big city or a cozy little home in a remote village. Whether you are in an old traditional Mansion in Yazd, a small village hut or a modern apartment in Tehran, your hosts do their best for your ease.

Beside routine sightseeing of Mosques, traditional Houses or Bazaar, which all have their own specific characters, a night with poetry, passion, music & hilarious anecdotes of Mullah Nasrodin is an attractive option to end the day.

Iranian families hold many gatherings & parties on special occasions & on ordinary weekends. Shabneshini (Iranian Night Gathering) is one of Iran’s long-standing memorable traditions for Iranians. For Iranian families, night gatherings have certain customs that symbolise a family reunion.

Persian Night is an interactive experience with a family in their home, where you will have the opportunity of becoming familiar with Iran’s traditional music & poetry of a legendary poet who had revitalized the Persian language & culture. You will become familiar with some of the customs associated with the Iranian ‘night gathering’. 

Some of the physical elements of Shabneshinis are Korsi (a type of low table with a heater underneath it & blankets thrown over it), natural snacks such as nuts & dried fruits, drinking tea, reading Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh & most importantly storytelling.

Since developing ‘written communication’ humankind has been able to transmit & preserve knowledge throughout the ages in the form of Literature & Poetry which can be considered as an integral aspect of the culture of nations.

On arrival, you are greeted with a healthy cold fresh traditional Persian drink. The 3 hour experience begins with playing Persian classical music. You will be fascinated with the live Performance by one of the experienced & skilled Musicians playing a Setar (a wood & string instrument).

Listen to classical Persian music & recitals of legendary poems & reading lines from the “Book of the King” which narrates stories about past Iran with its legendary hero (translated in English). The evening continues with the narration of a number of funny anecdotes of Mulla Nasrudin, a famous Persian character.

During short breaks, you will be served delicious & tasty Yazdi cake as well as flavorful aromatic bitter orange blossom tea.

Traditional Persian Night experience in Yazd is very authentic due to the experienced friendly & passionate Hosts. Moreover, you may enjoy friendly chats with the Hosts & with other guests of different nationalities who may be there, about Persian culture, customs & traditions.

Iranians are known as their hospitality & express their feelings & intense excitement of hosting, preparing a feast for their guests. Following this honorable tradition, your Hosts too, will prepare a real Persian banquet featuring both vegetarian & non-vegetarian cuisine. You will be served a delicious & wholesome 3 course dinner which includes Shooli Soup, Ghormeh Sabzi & Mast-o-Khiar.

The evening ends with a sumptuous meal showcasing traditional Persian cuisine followed of course, with the famous Yazdi Cake & tea with citrus aurantium flavor.

Transfer back to the hotel.

Morning, Check-out early & depart for the next destination of your discovery.

But first, continue where you left off in discovering this wonderful city. Visit a couple of more places here that have a left a legible imprint of the times gone by.

Enough of Mosques & Monuments. Now, we will briefly visit another interesting place synonymous with the city - Yazd Water Museum located in a traditional restored Mansion with a visible Qanat running underneath. A must see for travelers looking for a better understanding of Yazd's design & architecture & a perspective of the hard work required to build the Qanat systems.

Located in the middle of the Bafgh desert, a sustainable water supply seemed nearly impossible for Yazd.

Yazd is the center of Iran's development of this ancient technology & this Museum devoted to the brave men who built them, draws attention, educating visitors on the awe-inspiring engineering needed to build over 3200 Qanats (underground aqueducts) in the province.

Qanats run through many of the wealthy old houses in Yazd, water collecting in pools in basements known as sardob. The Qanats (there are many running through each town) are the reason why the wealthiest districts are always closest to the mountains - to be closest to the freshest water.

Visitors are able to walk through Canal paths & see a fully functional Well. Exploring the underground spaces, visitors learn about the strategies used & see how Yazd was able to build the world's largest Qanat system. Walking through a maze of hallways & endless array of rooms, marvel at the ingenuity required to sequester water from the nearby mountains & bring life to the middle of the desert.

As the coolest part of the house, these rooms were often beautifully decorated & several fine examples exist & can be seen in some of Yazd's old Mansions that have been converted into traditional hotels today.

This Museum displays ancient Tools, Relics used throughout the years & through a series of extensive photo archives, exhibits & architectural drawings, offers a fascinating glimpse into the hidden world of Waterways that have allowed life to flourish in the desert, detailing the influence Water had on the design & culture of Yazd.

It illustrates the 2000 years that Iran's unique Irrigation System has been in operation & describes the drilling of mother wells (which can reach a depth of 300 meters, such as the Qanat near Mashad) & the use of Water Distribution Clocks (precursor pf the Water Meters you have in your house, which they created 2,000 years ahead). These Clocks (basically a bowl with a hole in the bottom) helped to mark out the 15 - 20 minutes shares of water purchasable by householder or farmer.

An interesting item on display are the unique Uniforms of the Qanat builders, an early form of the modern Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) with padded cotton hats & white-coloured clothing that was both luminous in the dark & would act as a shroud in the event of a fatal accident.

After spending an hour in the Museum, drive on to see a functional Atashkadeh (Fire Temple).

Although the population of Zoroastrians has greatly decreased in Yazd, presently roughly 10 % of the town's population adhere to this ancient religion. 

Though their original Atashkadeh was turned into a Mosque when Arabs invaded Iran, a dignified new Temple was inaugurated 1300 years later & is now one of the most significant landmarks of Yazd.

The fully active Atashkadeh is located on a hill in a small fruit garden, surrounded by evergreen trees & a large round Pool in the Courtyard, which offers a vivid reflection of the Temple for artistic photography. There is also a Photo Gallery & a Pool in the basement connected to Qanats (underground aqueducts supplying drinking water).

A couple of paintings, including that of Zoroaster, can be pointed out as another attraction of the place. There exists a winged figure atop the facade as well. This figure is the visual representation of the supreme God of Zoroastrians.

The pilgrims gather for the ceremonies & rituals but nobody apart form the Moubad (Grand Priest), supposedly a direct descendant of the Magi (Zoroastrian God), reciting the Avesta (Holy Book), has access to the chamber of Moubad-e Moubadan (Saint of Saints) where for the past 1500 years a Fire has burned in a bronze vessel enclosed in a glass enclosure.

The sacred ancient Flame at Yazd Atashkadeh that has been kept alive throughout various centuries, continues to burn today, without a break, is considered to be the symbol of the God of Light & makes this the most important Temple attracting adherents from all over the world. The Yazd Atash Behram (as the holy Fire of Victory is known) is one of 9 Atash Behrams, the highest grade of a Fire held within a Atashkadeh. The Fires are created from 16 “types” of Flames & this particular Flame is the only one located outside India.

This particular Flame has burned since 470, since the reign of the Sasanian Empire. The Flame first flickered in the Pars Karyan Atashkadeh & then was relocated to the city of Aqda, where it burned for 700 years. The Fire continued to move around over the years before finally landing in its current home in 1934.

Today, the sacred Flame is kept alive by a junior Priest called a Hirob, who ritually feeds the Flame with dry wood several times a day, to keep it searing through. For this, the Temple & its surrounding alleyways are doused in the heavenly scent of incense & Boswellia each morning.

To enter this Temple during traditional Zoroastrian ceremonies, visitors must follow certain rules that are set into place to respect the Temple’s sacred soul. Men & women must alter their attire & wear white garments to get access to the viewing chamber. Non-Zoroastrians can enter certain areas only.

From here, you will proceed to Tower of Silence (Zoroastrian's Dakhmeh or Qaleh-ye Khamushan).  

Each ancient culture has its own customs & rituals about death. The term ‘Tower’ is misleading as they consist of huge circular walls on top of 2 hills. There are 3 impressive buildings remaining from several other similar structures on hilltops outside & in the immediate vicinity of the town where the bodies of the dead Zoroastrians would be brought to the foot of the Tower so that a ritual funerary ceremony could be held in presence of the relatives & friends of the deceased.

The body was then carried by the Priests into the Towers of Silence where it was laid on the flat stones on the ground thus avoiding that earth, water & fire, the divine elements to be contaminated, the soul of the defunct person having already been taken by Ahura Mazda.

According to a Zoroastrian tradition dating back over 3,000 years, once someone dies, their body can immediately be contaminated by demons & made impure. To prevent this infiltration, Zoroastrians purified the dead body by exposing it to the elements. Consequently, the bodies were arranged on the Towers in 3 concentric circles. Men were placed in the outer circle, women in the middle & children in the inner-most ring. The bodies were then left to slowly disintegrate & to be picked clean by the vultures.

The bleached bones were then thrown into a circular pit in the center of the Tower directly below. After the purification process, the bones were placed by the Priests in Ossuaries near or inside of the Towers. Ossuaries from these rituals have been discovered from the 4^th & 5^th centuries BC.

Similar Dakhmas (Towers) exist just outside of Mumbai, India, as well, although the most prominent “Towers of Silence” are in Iran.

As Iran developed & urbanized, Dakhmas became increasingly closer to city limits, severely curtailing their use. The custom largely disappeared throughout the Zoroastrian world around 50 years ago, at about the same time that the eternal Flame was transferred to the newly constructed Yazd Atashkadeh.

Since the 1970s, the use of Dakhmas has been illegal in Iran, forcing orthodox Zoroastrians to adapt to new burial methods & the community reluctantly moved to burying bodies beneath concrete to keep out all contaminants in the modern Cemetery at the foot of the Towers.

Although the Towers are no longer in use, some of the Towers & Ossuaries in the area, have been opened to the public. Beneath the hill, there are several other disused Zoroastrian buildings including a defunct well, 2 small Badgirs, a kitchen & a lavatory for the visitors.

Drive on for Isfahan.

Enroute, stop at another historic town to discover some more.

Na’ian is a pre-Islamic town, more than 2,000 years old, on the edge of the Central Desert.

According to some evidence, Jewish people who emigrated to Iran, built the city of Na'ian under the rule of the Achaemenid Empire while they were enroute to Isfahan. Many local people speak an ancient Pahlavi Sasani dialect that is spoken by the Zoroastrians in Yazd today, in addition to Farsi.

Besides its magnificent monuments, Na’in is also famous for high-quality ceramics, carpets & wool textiles & finished clothing like camel-wool cloaks primarily sold in Yazd. Majority of inhabitants are farmers & the main produce is pistachio & pomegranates. Besides its magnificent monuments, Na’in is also famous for high-quality ceramics, carpets & wool textiles & finished clothing like camel-wool cloaks primarily sold in Yazd.

Unique to Na’in are some of the most outstanding monuments in all of Iran: the Jame Mosque, one of the first 4 Mosques built in Iran after the Arab invasion; the Pre-Islamic Narej Fortress; a Pirnia traditional house; the Old Bazaar; Rigareh, a qanat-based watermill & a Zurkhaneh (a place for traditional sport).

More than 3,000 years ago, the Persians learned how to construct aqueducts underground to bring water from the mountains to the plains. In the 1960's, this ancient system provided more than 70 percent of the water used in Iran & Na’in is one of the best places in entire world to see these functioning Qanats.

See Masjed-e Jameh, whose construction dates back to the 8^th century CE, but the complete Complex has been constructed in stages. The finely detailed stucco work around the Mihrab (niche) belongs to Ale'Buye in the 11^th century. The Courtyard was constructed in the time of the Siljuks (12^th century), the basement is believed to be pre-Islamic, which may have been used as a Fire Temple before the Mosque, one of the oldest in Iran, was built on top. The exterior facade & Minaret are beautiful & many parts of the interior are decorated with stucco work.

If you stand in the middle of the yard, you will find yourself surrounded by 14 Columns, each one adorned with a unique & intricate pattern of brickwork. Its magnificent plasterwork over the niche, the marvellous brickwork around the yard, are only a few of its features.

There is an exquisitely carved wooden Minbar, which an inscription identifies as being 700 years old & an underground Prayer Hall, designed to keep the faithful cool in summer & warm in winter. Alabaster 'windows' set in the ceiling of this dug-out basement allowed natural light to filter down from the courtyard, & access to the Qanat below the Mosque served as the ablutions area. There is a stairway that connects the Mosque to the water channel & to the chambers above the pool.

There is time for another brief visit a traditional Museum House called Na’in Pirnia & Ethnographic Museum right next to the Mosque.

The traditional Pirnia House belonging to a Governor of Na'in during the Qajar Dynasty, is a perfect example of the desert architecture of the region. It consists of living quarters arranged around a sunken courtyard on 2 levels. When you enter the House & pass the first corridor, you reach an octagonal room called "hashti", which used to be a Waiting Room for visitors. The rooms to the right from the Entrance immediately catch visitors' attention with their delicate monochrome painted plaster decoration.

A few decades ago, the Mansion was purchased by the Ministry of Culture & Art & after renovation in 1994, it was transformed into the Ethnological Desert Museum with an exceptionally fine collection. Among the most valuable objects on display is 19^th century Zoroastrian female clothing with exquisite hand-embroidery.

The murals of the main Hall depict the scenes from the life of Joseph the Beautiful, including the scene of Zaltkhas unsuccessful attempt to seduce him. Beautiful paintings, amazing plastering of Qur'an stories, a book of famous poems & exquisite calligraphy decorate the small Sitting Room next to it. A Teahouse located on the same level as the courtyard is an excellent place to rest after the excursion.

Stroll through the old part of the town before sitting down for Lunch in one of the Teahouses. You should try Doogh, a sour drink made from yoghurt, salt & water - sometimes carbonated & sometimes flavoured with mint or other plants. Same as Turkish ayran, it is an acquired taste but will rehydrate you quickly in the heat of Iran's summer.

In the Muhammadieh suburb on the outskirt of the town, there are some man-made Caves which locals have named Aba Bafi. The openings of all these Caves face the rising sun & are thought to have been constructed by Zoroastrians who traditionally respect the sources of light.

Subsequently, the Zoroastrians migrated elsewhere & Muslim inhabitants moved in & set up loom workshops to weave cloaks & rugs. Nowadays, the Caves support a cottage industry that is over 700 years old.

Na'ian’s specialty winter textiles & weaving cloaks by hand is one of the most valuable handicrafts & historical arts of this town. Clothing styles have changed but the heavy cloaks woven from 2 types of sheep & camel wools are still quite famous in some Arab countries. It is possible to buy the handicrafts directly from the Weavers in these underground Workshops.

Finally, it is on to Isfahan, known for its Persian architecture.

Arrive by evening & Check-in at the hotel & relax for an hour.

Today, we have planned an experience that will be the highlight of your Iran experience, one you will not easily forget.

In time, meet the Tour-guide again & proceed to enjoy an exciting Wellness experience - a visit to an exotic Turkish Hammam.

If the Persian Garden as a world heritage is a unique style of Garden design, then the Persian Bath along with its age-old rituals is an important brand of public hygiene in the history of the world. According to excavations, the first Bathhouses were constructed in the time of Jamshid Shah & according to archaeological documents the earliest ruins were found in ancient Chogha Zanbil in Khouzestan province.

Cleanliness & hygiene were already important in pre-Islamic Iran & the importance of Bathing in Iranian culture dates back to the era when the state religion was Zoroastrianism. The emergence of Islam played an important part in the development of Bathhouses to the extent that it was considered to be part of a Muslim’s faith.

In Islamic Iran, especially in Safavid era, as reported by Jean Chardin in his Travelogue “The Travels of Sir John Chardin”, there were more than 270 public Bathhouses only in Isfahan which not only shows the significance of sanitation but also the high level of urban development of Persia.

Traditional Hammams in Iran (or everywhere) have never been a place for personal bathing only; rather they have functioned as a Social forum, a place for communication, relaxation & recreation. In the time when no TV news or social media existed. It was one of the major places for staying up to date with the latest news, passing information & of course, spreading rumours or gossiping. Moreover, a Hammam was a location where many important social & political events took place. Traditional rituals like Hana Bandan (bridal henna party), Hammam-e Zayeman (childbirth bath), Mourning Bath upon the loss of dear ones etc. were / are performed here.

Hammams were also used as Wellness Centres for doing traditional medical treatments like massage, bloodletting, cupping & circumcision. Women specifically, often frequented it for relaxation activities like getting a massage or beautifying deeds such as having a haircut, clipping their nails & face makeup in addition to shaving.

Join this once in a lifetime experience to hear the history of Iranian cleanliness & traditions and touch the aesthetic beauty of Persian architecture in an underground vaulted Hammam lined with harmonious blue tile work & centred with fountains.

Prepare to be soaped by a professional attendant, scrubbed with an indigenous peeling kiseh (glove) & chalk-like material (Sefid-ab) & massaged by a skilled Dallak (masseur) like never before, as they used to do in the centuries before. Soak up the rich Persian culture with a cleaning adventure. Feel extremely clean & reinvigorated after getting rid of the long-lived fatigue & dirt on your body.

On arrival, you will welcomed with traditional beverages & Tea, offered an explanation about the Hammam’s history & background & etiquettes to be followed. You will then be guided to your personal Dressing Cubicle (Sarbineh) to undress. You will don a red-coloured Bath Wrap (called Long in Persian) to cover up & slip into sandals. You will be handed a package of your personal bathing supplies (soap, scrubbing mitt, bath-wrap, towels).

After washing up & a traditional massage, you will have a scrubbing to slough off your dirt & dead skin by the skilled Dallak. Then, gently soap & relax in the hot water pool & Jacuzzi equipped with water purification system before moving to the cold room, taking shower & being handed your towels to dry out. Getting dressed, feeling great & extremely clean, you will be offered a light snack & drink in Reception Room.

The Wellness moment ends & you proceed to one of the famous Tea-house (traditional restaurants) for a sumptuous Dinner.

If interested, accompanied by the Tour-guide, you may walk southward on Chahar-bagh to reach Si-o-Se Pol Bridge a great example of Safavid architecture, on Zayandeh River. A popular recreational gathering place, the Bridge was once decorated with erotic paintings, which have since been removed to accordance with the modern day Iran’s Islamic morals & laws. Watch the budding Musicians playing under the Bridge & enjoy tea in a traditional Tearoom.

Walking through the historic UNESCO World Heritage listed Bazaar, over the picturesque Bridges of Isfahan are sure to be highlights of your holiday.

Walk back to the hotel & relax.

Morning, meet the Tour-guide in the Lobby at 08.30 am & proceed for a 6 hour sightseeing tour of the beautiful city of Isfahan, known for its Persian architecture.

Isfahan is Iran’s top tourist destination for good reason. 400 years ago, Isfahan was larger than London, more cosmopolitan than Paris & grander, by some accounts, than even storied Istanbul. Elegant bridges crossed its modest river, lavishly outfitted Polo players dashed across the world's largest Square & 100s of Domes & Minarets punctuated the skyline. Europeans, Turks, Indians & Chinese flocked to the glittering Persian Court, the center of a vast Empire stretching from the Euphrates River in what is today Iraq to the Oxus River in Afghanistan.

Isfahan's history is an epic cycle of fabulous boom & calamitous bust. Here a road traveling across the Iranian plateau east to the Mesopotamian plain meets a path connecting the Caspian Sea to the north with the Persian Gulf to the south. That geography linked the city's fate to the merchants, pilgrims & armies who passed through. Blessed with a pleasant climate - the city lies at nearly the same altitude as Denver & has relatively mild summers - Isfahan evolved into a bustling township at ancient Persia's crossroads.

"One could explore for months without coming to an end of them", marveled British traveler Robert Byron on his 1933-34 journey across Asia. In his 1937 travelogue The Road to Oxiana, he was slightly more geographically specific when he ranked ‘Isfahan among those rarer places, like Athens or Rome, which are the common refreshment of humanity’.

It would be another 2 centuries before Isfahan would rise again, under the reign of Shah Abbas I, the greatest Ruler of the Safavid Empire (1501-1722 A.D.). Cruel as Russia's Ivan the Terrible, canny as England's Elizabeth I & extravagant as Philip II of Spain (all contemporaries), Abbas made Isfahan his showplace, after consolidating his control, he transformed the provincial city into a global Metropolis, importing Armenian Merchants & Artisans and welcoming Catholic Monks & Protestant Traders. He was generally tolerant of the Jewish & Zoroastrian communities that had lived there for centuries.

Most remarkably, Abbas sought to establish Isfahan as the political Capital of the first Shiite Empire, bringing learned Theologians from Lebanon to bolster the city's religious institutions - a move begun by his predecessors that would have profound consequences for world history.

The art & crafts thrived in the new Capital; miniaturists, carpet weavers, jewelers & potters turned out ornate wares that enhanced the Mansions & Palaces that sprang up along spacious Avenues. He initiated one of the world's grandest experiments in city planning, moving the Capital from Qazvin to Isfahan in 1598 where it remained until 1722. Mosques, Palaces, Bazaars & public Parks were built under the Monarch's personal supervision over the next 30 years. Its profusion of tree-lined Boulevards, Persian Gardens & important Islamic buildings gives it a visual appeal unmatched by any other Iranian city & the many artisans working here, underpin its reputation as a living Museum of traditional culture.

Abbas was a man of extremes. A European visitor described him as a Ruler whose mood could quickly turn from jolly to "that of a raging lion." Abbas's appetites were legendary: he boasted an enormous wine cellar & a harem that included 100s of women & more than 200 boys. He loved to roam Isfahan's markets, eating freely from stalls, taking whatever shoes on display suited him & chatting with whomever he pleased. "To go about in this way is to be a King," he told scandalized Augustinian monks accompanying him on one of his jaunts. "Not like yours, who is always sitting indoors!"

After a brutal siege shattered that golden age in the early 18^th century, new Rulers eventually moved the Capital to Tehran, leaving Isfahan to languish as a provincial backwater, which not incidentally left many of the old city's monuments intact.

But, such is the city’s wealth & grandeur that it is easy to agree with the famous 16^th century Persian pun & proverb ‘Isfahan nesf-e Jahan (Isfahan is half the world). During the last half of his extraordinary 42 year reign, which ended with his death in 1629, Abbas left behind an urban landscape that rivaled or exceeded anything created in a single reign in Europe or Asia.

The French archaeologist & architect Andre Godard, who lived in Iran early in the 20^th century, wrote that Abbas' Isfahan "is above all a plan, with lines & masses & sweeping perspectives - a magnificent concept born half a century before Versailles". By the mid-1600s, that plan had filled out into a city that boasted a population of 600,000, with 163 Mosques, 48 Religious Schools, 1,801 shops & 263 public Baths. The elegant main street was 50 yards wide, with a Canal running down the middle, filling onyx basins strewn with the heads of roses & shaded by 2 rows of chinar trees. Gardens graced the Pavilions, which lined either side of the promenade called the Chahar Bagh. "The Grandees were airing themselves, prancing about with their numerous trains, striving to outvie each other in pomp & generosity," remarked one visiting European.

As the country’s 3^rd largest city is home to some heavy industry, including Steel factories & a much-discussed Nuclear facility in the outskirts of town. Inevitably, then, traffic jams are a regular occurrence. Despite these modern realities, the inner core of the city remains a priceless gem.

Stroll through the huge UNESCO World Heritage listed Naqsh-e Jahan Square (Central Square).

4 centuries ago, this Square, which is also called the Maidan, was the economic & political heart of a prosperous & largely peaceful empire that drew foreigners from around the world. "Let me lead you into the Maidan", wrote Thomas Herbert, Secretary of the English Ambassador to the Persian Court from 1627 to 1629, which is "without doubt as spacious, as pleasant & aromatic a market as any in the universe".

Measuring 656 by 328 feet, it was also one of the world's largest urban Plazas of that time. But unlike vast concrete spaces such as Tiananmen Square in Beijing or Red Square in Moscow, Naqsh-e Jahan served alternatively & sometimes simultaneously as a Marketplace, Polo field, Social Meeting point, Execution ground & Festival park. Fine river sand covered the Plaza & vendors peddled Venetian glass in one corner & Indian cloth or Chinese silks in another, while locals sold firewood, iron tools or melons grown with pigeon droppings collected from special Towers surrounding the city. Acrobats passed their hats, Hawkers called out their wares in several tongues & Hucksters worked the throngs.

A mast in the middle was used for Archery practice - a horseman would ride past it at full gallop, then turn to shoot down an apple, silver plate or gold cup on top. Marble goal posts that still stand at either end of the Square, are reminders of the fierce Polo matches at which the Shah on a heavily bejeweled mount often joined others dressed in fantastic colors & bold plumage.

Today the sand, Merchants, Hucksters & Polo players are all gone, tamed by early 20^th century Gardens. Yet the view around the Square remains remarkably unchanged. To the north is a great arch opening into the high vaulted ceilings of a snaking, covered marketplace that stretches nearly a mile.

The city's 1^st recorded golden age is traced to the arrival of the Seljuk Turks from Central Asia in the 11^th century. They turned the town into their Capital & built the magnificent Square leading to an enlarged 17^th century Imam Mosque, with its mosaic tiles & calligraphy covered Dome & Minarets.

On the north side is the great arch entrance opening into the high vaulted ceilings of a snaking, covered Royal Qaysariyyeh Bazaar with 100s of shops stretching nearly a mile, displaying the art & handicrafts for which Isfahan is world-famous.

Facing each other on the east & west sides of the Square are the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, with its pale brown & blue dome & the Ali Qapu Palace. That structure - dismissed by Byron as a "brick boot box" - is topped by slender Columns that turn it into a regal grandstand; bright silk curtains once hung from above to block the sun. The 2 Mosques bend at odd angles to orient toward Mecca, saving the Square from a rigid orderliness, while 2 story arcades for shops define & unify the whole. Constructed between 1603 & 1617, with its exquisite 17^th century Persian tile work on the domed ceiling, it served as a private Chapel for the Imperial family. The domed ceiling has the finest faience tilework of 17^th century Persia. The inscriptions were executed by Ali Reda Abbasi, the greatest Calligrapher of the Safavid period.

When it comes to Architecture & Music, Iranians know how to combine them to make double their impressions. On the west side of the Square is the 16^th century Ali Qapu Palace, a charming Pavilion used to receive dignitaries & Ambassadors. Here, the walls are covered with frescos & paintings and the superb wooden roof of the porch is painted with a series of geometrical decorations interspersed with flowers. It has enchanting Music rooms & a balcony overlooking the Maidan, from where the Safavid Kings watched Polo games. In the Acoustic Music Hall, you can hear your voice reverberate in an echo across the length of the Hall. The roof was waterproofed by covering it with a fresh layer of beaten eggs every year, the weight of which has caused many to collapse.

On the southern side, the towering portal of the Shah Mosque, a monument to the grand vision of Shah Abbas the Great who died shortly before its completion.

See the beautiful Chehel Sotuni Palace, with its exquisite collection of frescos & paintings on tile. Chehel Sotun means ‘40 Pillars’ - the number reflected in the long Pool in front of the Palace. The reflecting Pool magnified the majesty of the Ruler.

Built as a pleasure Pavilion & Reception Hall where Shah Abbas II welcomed dignitaries & Ambassadors. Today,you are the guests of honor!  Using the Achaemenid inspired talar (columnar porch) style, this beautifully proportioned Palace is entered via an elegant terrace that perfectly bridges the transition between the Persian love of Gardens & interior splendour. The 20 slender, ribbed wooden Pillars of the Palace rise to a superb wooden ceiling with crossbeams & exquisite inlay work.

The only surviving Palace on the royal precinct that stretched between Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square & Chahar Bagh Abbasi St, this Safavid-era Complex is reputed to date from 1614. An inscription uncovered in 1949, however, says it was completed in 1647 under the watch of Shah Abbas II. Either way, the Palace on this site today was rebuilt after a fire in 1706.

The Great Hall (Throne Hall) is a gem, richly decorated with frescoes, miniatures & ceramics. The upper walls are dominated by historical frescoes on a grand scale, sumptuously portraying Court life & some of the great battles of the Safavid era - the 2 middle frescoes (Nos 114 & 115) date from the Qajar period but the other 4 are original. From right to left, above the entrance door, the armies of Shah Ismail do battle with the Uzbeks; Nader Shah battles Sultan Mohammed (astride a white elephant) on an Indian battleground; & Shah Abbas II welcomes King Nader Khan of Turkestan with musicians & dancing girls.

On the wall opposite the door, also from right to left, Shah Abbas I presides over an ostentatious banquet; Shah Ismail battles the janissaries (infantrymen) of Sultan Selim & Shah Tahmasp receives Humayun, the Indian Prince who fled to Persia in 1543. These extraordinary works survived the 18^th century invasion by the Afghans, who whitewashed the paintings to show their disapproval of such extravagance. Other items, including Safavid forebear Safi od-Din’s hat, are kept in a small Museum.

The UNESCO World Heritage listed Palace’s Garden, Bagh-e Chehel Sotun, is an excellent example of the classic Persian Garden. An ancient fallen pine resting on a plinth gives a sense of the great age of the Garden. The polished noses of the lions on the standing water spouts at the head of the decorative Pool hint at this being a favourite spot for a photograph of the Garden's perfect symmetry. Art students have set up a Calico Shop at the Garden's entrance selling Iran's popular printed fabric. On the far side of the Garden is the Tomb of Arthur Upham Pope & his wife Phyllis Ackerman, 2 Americans who were dedicated to the study of Persian art, history & culture.

Proceed to the Armenian Quarter of Isfahan that dates from the time of Shah Abbas I, who transported a colony of Armenian Christians from the town of Jolfa (now on Iran’s northern border) en-masse, under the supervision of Arch-bishop David, as part of his scorched-earth policy in Armenia during the Ottoman War of 1603-1618, to his new Capital - Isfahan & named their village as ‘New Jolfa’ located on the south bank of the Zayandehrud River & linked to the Muslim part of Isfahan by Siosepol bridge. Abbas sought their skills as Merchants, Entrepreneurs & Artists and he ensured that their religious freedom was respected - albeit at a distance from the city’s Islamic Centre. At one time over 42,000 Armenian Christians lived here.

Visit the richly decorated Kelisa-ye Vank (‘Vank’ means "Monastery" or "Convent" in the Armenian language) - the historic focal point of the Armenian Christian Church in Iran with its dome & walls covered with colorful paintings representing the story of Creation. The Cathedral’s exceptionally plain exteriors in relatively modern brickwork may appear drab, contrasting with its elaborately decorated interior featuring a mixture of styles - Islamic, Persian & Christian European with restored wall paintings full of life & colour, including gruesome martyrdoms & pantomime demons. It consists of a domed sanctuary, much like an Iranian Mosque, but with the significant addition of a semi-octagonal Apse & raised Chancel usually seen in western Churches.

Also known as the Holy Savior Cathedral or Church of the Saintly Sisters, Kelisa-ye Vank, its construction is believed to have begun in 1606 by the first arrivals & completed with major alterations to design between 1648 & 1664 under the supervision of Archbishop David, with the encouragement of the Safavid Rulers. There are also a number of other Armenian Churches here & an old Cemetery, serving the local Christian community.

The varying fortunes & independence of this Suburb & its eclectic mix of European missionaries, mercenaries & travelers can be traced almost chronologically in the Cathedral's combination of building styles & contrasts in its external & internal architectural treatment. It is widely referred to as an everlasting masterpiece of architecture & today, forms the centre of this fashionable area.

The Courtyard contains a large freestanding Belfry towering over the graves of both Orthodox & Protestant Christians, placed along the exterior wall before the entrance, with inscriptions in Armenian. The graves include those of Sir George Malcolm, an English army officer, Alexander Decover, Russian Consul & Banker and Andrew Jukes, English Surgeon & Agent of the British government. Graves are also. In one corner of the Courtyard, there is a raised area with a memorial to the 1915 Armenian genocide in Turkey.

The interior is covered with fine frescos & gilded carvings & includes a wainscot of rich tile work. The delicately blue & gold painted Central Dome depicts the Biblical story of the creation of the world & man's expulsion from Eden. Pendentives throughout the Church are painted with a motif of a cherub's head surrounded by folded wings typical of Armenian art. The ceiling above the entrance is painted with delicate floral motifs in the style of Persian miniature. 2 sections or bands, of murals run around the interior walls: the top section depicts events from the life of Jesus, while the bottom section depicts tortures inflicted upon Armenian martyrs by the Ottoman Empire.

Across the Courtyard, facing the Cathedral, there is a building housing Museum of Khachatur Kesaratsi (Museum of Armenian Culture) displaying numerous artifacts from the history of the Cathedral & the Armenian community in Isfahan. It displays over 700 handwritten books, a historic printing press & the first book printed in Iran, several edicts by Abbas I & his successors condemning & prohibiting interference with, or persecution of, Armenians & their property or affairs, an extensive display of photographs, maps & Turkish documents (with translation) related to the 1915 Genocide, migration a variety of objects related to Armenian community in Isfahan such as Safavid costumes, tapestries, European paintings brought back by Armenian merchants, embroidery & other ethnological displays related to Armenian culture & religion.

The highlight of the Museum is a fabulous collection of illustrated Gospels & Bibles, some dating back as far as the 10^th century. And, appropriate to a City of Miniature Painters, relatively recent gifts to the Museum include one of the world's smallest Prayer Books & a Prayer written on a single hair that is possible to see only with the aid of a Microscope. There are several larger carved stones showing scenes from the Bible, outside the Museum.

See Hasht Bahesht (8 Paradises) Pavilion & Park, built as an official Court & a Reception Hall by Shah Abbas II (1647 AD). The painted ceilings are outstanding.

Pause for Lunch (direct payment - not included) at one of the several cafes & restaurant at Jolfa Square.

For centuries, Isfahan has been a cornerstone of Persian arts & handicrafts. Even though automation is taking a toll, the city is famous as a historical location for a number of hereditary Artisans practicing figurative art in all forms, following the age-old inter-generational traditional processes.

Specialty Crafts being produced here are Mina Kari (Metal Enameling), Qalamzani (Teurotics or Metal Engraving), Messgari (making Copper ware), Monabat & Moarragh (Wood Carving & Wood Mosaic), Qalamkar (Persian Calico), Khatam (Persian Marquetry).   

Persians also developed natural & lasting dyes. Cobalt found in Isfahan was exported to China where it was used in the blue on ‘ceramic’ products later nicknamed by the British as ‘China’.

Isfahan’s photogenic 17^th century Grand Bazaar is a literal Gallery of Art, Architecture & Culture.

Wandering around the alleys, walking under the arched & domed passageways will lead you to an attractive handicraft market with a wide range of workshops & art shops showcasing gorgeous Iranian crafts, elaborate Persian carpets & intoxicating aromatic spices.

Carpet weaving, of course, is the default ‘national’ craft so it is considered ‘almost’ normal to see the Weavers & centers in many cities & villages producing intricate Arabesques, geometric & other floral designs. See notable differences between urban & rural styles. Those who are interested may also visit a carpet shop to sip tea & admire Iran’s most valuable craft & art form.

The Persian knot allowed the tight composition to create intricate Arabesques, geometric &d other floral designs. See both City & Tribal Carpets. Unlike Arabic Islamic design, Shia Muslims took literally God’s commandment to know Him through His creation. Thus, you find figurative art in all forms including on Tile, Metalwork & on Carpets.

Stop by one of the Bazaar’s Teahouses (direct payment - not included) for a refreshment.

Isfahan is also known for its production of the world-famous "Gaz" a traditional & delicious white nougat (toffee containing a combination of egg whites, sugar, rose water, pistachios, almonds). It makes perfect souvenir for family & friends & you should not miss the opportunity to buy some.

From here, proceed to a private Art Gallery to observe a unique heritage craft, found in very few cities of the world. You may also meet a famous Artist.

Miniature Art & Paintings which are also traditionally created in Japan, Far East & China, have big fans among Iranian Artists, too. The art of miniature painting in Persia flourished from 13^th - 18^th centuries & developed into a marriage of artistic & poetic languages. The most important function in Persian Miniature was the ‘illustration’. It continues to this day, with several contemporary Artists still producing notable Persian miniatures. In fact, only in Isfahan & Shiraz, can one find Shops selling miniature art. Interestingly, some Artists even paint miniatures on exclusive decorative boxes, tea sets or different vessels made of gold, bronze & copper. which enhances their value & pricing. The Palaces feature excellent Miniatures.

The visually stunning intricate miniature paintings, with a level of detail that can only be achieved with a very fine hand & experience, are drawn on white boards using strong magnifiers, special extremely small brushes, thin sheets of camel bones & specialised papers. The paintings are so delicate that even the viewer needs to use a magnifier, to see the details.

The price of miniature artwork varies depending on the Artists & their respective levels of skill, the size & theme of the picture. It gave a visual image to a literary plot, making it easier to understand. The ‘themes’ became more limited as time went by. In the 17^th century there were mainly love scenes, portraits & some Artists even copied European pictures. In the 18^th century, there appeared a new genre of flowers & birds. Visitors, especially from the Western world, are always thrilled to see the amazing works of miniature art & observe the Artists.

The tour finishes & you are transferred back to the hotel late afternoon. But the day is not over yet.

Around 06.30 pm, accompanied by the Tour-guide, proceed to a cozy family home, where you will have the opportunity to interact with the Host’s family, learn about Persian cuisine, culture & life-style and to participate in a Culinay experience, learning to cook several delicious popular dishes.

Meet the effable lady of the house & be ready for an exciting evening, gaining deeper cultural insights & dispelling the ‘official’ myths disseminated in the Western world.

Iranians are known for their hospitality & express their feelings & intense excitement of hosting, preparing a feast for their guests. Following this honorable tradition, your Hosts too, will prepare a real Persian banquet featuring both vegetarian & non-vegetarian cuisine.

If your Host is not wearing shoes, remove yours at the door. Greet any elders present first before individually greeting everyone with a handshake. Entertaining happens in the Living Room which is usually the most lavishly furnished. Dinner could be at the Dining Table or sitting on the floor.

Iran cuisine & culture is yet to be discovered by the wider world, so you be one of the few to learn, experience & taste. Thanks to Iran's place on the Silk Road, the country's cuisine has enjoyed ancient traditions shaping it to its current state. Persian cooking has many features in common with Indian, central Asian, Turkish & Middle Eastern cuisines, yet it has its own particular characteristics & is unmistakably different from any of its counterparts. For instance, while many ingredients of Iranian & Indian food are similar, Indian cuisine is spicier & uses pepper very generously. It is a diversity of tastes & recipes which kept their spirit during the long history of Persia even though the Rulers have come & gone.