Welcome to Enchanting Journeys

Welcome to enchanting Republic of Korea – that offers the traveller a dazzling range of experiences, beautiful landscapes & 5000 years of culture & history.

Arrive in Seoul, South Korea’s busy capital that casts a spell on many who visit this charming city. Fashion & technology forward yet also deeply traditional, this dynamic city mashes up palaces, temples, cutting-edge design & mountain trails, all to a nonstop K-Pop beat.

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Seoul Incheon International Airport, subsequent to Customs & Immigration, you will be met by a Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the hotel. He / she will provide assistance during Check-in & also discuss the program that we have planned for you here.

Arrive at the hotel & Check-in & relax.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’.

Breathtaking Antiquity | Urban Buzz| Korean Spirit | Epicurean Encounters

Over the last decade, Seoul has worked hard to soften its industrial hard edges into an appealing urban ideal of parks, culture & design. Glass, concrete & steel are crafted into natural forms at the spectacular Dongdaemun Design Plaza (a futuristic convention hall with curving architecture & a rooftop park) & City Hall. The popularity of the beautifully landscaped Parks alongside the central Cheong-gye stream & the Han River has spurred on the creation of more green spaces & cycle routes. Join Seoulites enjoying time out shopping in stylish boutiques & drinking at cool cafes & convivial bars.

The heart of South Korea’s culture and education as well as politics & economics, Seoul which has been the capital of Korea since the 14^th century, is a city of infinite discoveries. The ancient capital of an ancient land, Seoul is a city where the traditional & the cutting-edge exists side-by-side in perfect harmony. Today, the old & the new have fused to create beautiful palaces, great food & a hopping nightlife.

Gaze down on this sprawling metropolis of around 10 million people from atop any of Seoul’s four guardian mountains & you will sense the powerful pungsu-jiri (feng shui) that has long nurtured & protected the city. History clings tenaciously to the ‘Miracle on the Han’, a phoenix arisen from the ashes of the Korean War. So while Seoul has its eye clearly on the future, you will also encounter fascinating fragments of the past in World Heritage listed sites such as Jongmyo shrine, in the alleys between the graceful hanok (traditional wooden homes) in Bukchon & striding along the magnificent Seoul City Wall.

Seoul is heaven for passionate foodies. Whether tucking into the snacks of commoners or the cuisine of kings, you just can’t lose. A hanjeongsik (multicourse banquet) is a feast as much for the eyes as the tummy, as are the creations of chefs crafting neo-Korean dishes. Equally satisfying is scoffing down piping-hot, crispy hotteok (pancakes with sweet or savoury fillings) on a street corner, or delicious, fresh & fiery crab soup in Noryangjin Fish Market. And don’t get us started on the wonderful universe of teas served in charming teahouses: this is where the soul of Seoul lies.

For all of its headlong rush into the 21^st century on a hallyu (Korean popular culture) wave, what charms one most about the ROK is its proud promotion of age-old traditions & culture. Meditate at a Buddhist temple retreat where the honk of traffic is replaced by the rhythmic predawn chants of shaven-headed monks; hike along Seoul's 600 year old city walls; and walk on & around the Jeju Olle Trail, connecting with history & island traditions on the way.

It is a 24 hour City. Whatever you want, at any time of day or night, Seoul can provide. An early morning temple visit can lead to a palace tour followed by tea-sipping in Bukchon & gallery-hopping in Samcheong-dong. Soju (a vodka like drink) & snacks in a street tent bar will fuel you for shopping at the buzzing Dongdaemun or Namdaemun night markets, partying in Hongdae or Itaewon, or singing in a self-service karaoke noraebang. Follow this with steaming, soaking & snoozing in a jjimjilbang (sauna & spa). By the time you look at your watch, it will be dawn again.

Public transport is brilliant, so there is no excuse for not stretching your travel horizons beyond the city limits. The fearsome Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), splitting South from North Korea, exerts a powerful attraction & makes for a compelling day trip. To the west, Incheon is a fascinating port where the modern world came flooding into Korea at the end of the 19^th century, and today whose Chinatown & waterfront are still an interesting fusion of people. To the south is Suwon, home to impressive World Heritage listed fortifications, built by King Jeongjo, that snake 5.7km past majestic gates & pavilions. Notable attractions include the ancient UNESCO Heritage listed Gyeongbokgung Palace, which once had more than 7,000 rooms & Jogyesa Temple, site of ancient locust & pine trees.

Balance of the day free to relax or for optional activities (we would be happy to offer suggestions & make the arrangements).

Morning, meet the Tour-guide in the lobby at 09.00 am & embark on a full day 8 hour sightseeing  tour of Korea's capital city that is full of rich heritage, culture, history & tourist attractions. 

First Stop will be the pedestrian-friendly Gwanghwamun Plaza.

Hemmed in on both sides by rushing traffic, office buildings, concert hall & foreign embassies, the Plaza is lined on each side with 365 meter long streamlets, 2 centimeters deep & 1 meter across. The floor of the Plaza's east side waterway is a carving depicting historic events into the stones in chronological order from 1392 to 2008. Near the southwestern corner of the Plaza is Kilometer Zero, marking the distances to 64 cities around the world including Seoul's antipode, Montevideo, Uruguay, 19,606km. You will see a statue of folk hero Yi Sunsin who had engaged in 23 naval battles & emerged victorious in all of them during the Hideyoshi invasion (1592-1598). He is also credited with the production of the first iron-clad warship in history. King Sejong who propagated the Korean alphabet in the 15^th century is also honored with prominent statue in this Plaza. Gwanghwamun Plaza was also the locale where Pope Francis beatified 124 Korean martyrs on 16 August, 2014.

From here, proceed through the city traffic to the main gate of the majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace meaning "Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven."  

It was the first & largest of the royal palaces built in 1395 during the Joseon Dynasty rule (1392-1910), in the center of the newly appointed capital of Seoul (then known as Hanyang) with Mount Bugaksan in the rear & Mount Namsan in the foreground, an auspicious location according to the traditional practice of geomancy.  

It represents a colorful yet turbulent period of the capital’s 500 year history.  See its magnificent gates, graceful architecture & lovely gardens,

The Japanese during the Hideyoshi invasions of 1592-98, razed all the Palaces including Gyeongbokgung Palace. Gyeongbokgung Palace was left derelict for the next 273 years until it was finally reconstructed in 1867 by the order of the Prince Regent. The reconstructed new Palace was markedly different from the original. Some 500 buildings were built on a site of over 40 hectares & constituted a small city. The architectural principles of ancient China were harmoniously incorporated into both the tradition & the appearance of the Joseon royal court.

Gwanghwamun Gate was dismantled & relocated to the east, and an enormous building housing the Japanese Government-General was constructed in front of the main sector of the Palace.

On entering the Gate, you will experience a rare opportunity to appreciate a slice of colorful culture. Depending on the time, you may witness the Changing of the Royal Guard ceremony.

During the Joseon Dynasty, the royal guards were responsible for guarding and patrolling the gates of the capital city and the royal palaces. They were in charge of opening & closing the palace gates, inspecting all visitors & maintaining a close surveillance of the palace. They were divided into day & night shifts, and the Changing of the Guard ceremony took place whenever the shifts changed over.

After some extensive historical research, this splendid & elegant traditional Korean royal court cultural ceremony was first re-enacted in 1996 & has been a must-see among Seoul's tourist attractions ever since. This daily ceremony is a great opportunity to experience a rare traditional scene in Korea, replicated exactly as it was, with the Guards dressed in traditional colorful royal uniforms, carrying traditional weapons & playing traditional instruments, march in a procession in front of Gwanghwamun, the main gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace twice a day at 10.00 am & 02.00 pm.

Walk to Geunjeongjeon, the Throne Hall where the king formally granted audiences to his officials, gave declarations of national importance, presided over large official functions, and greeted foreign envoys & ambassadors. See royal throne & a large painting, depicting sun, moon, five peaks, streams & pine trees, which was the crucial signifier of the king. The bright golden dragons in bold relief in the center of the ceiling indicate the presence of the king. The two-tier edifice stands on top of a two-tiered stone platform that is lined with detailed balustrades & decorated with numerous sculptures depicting imaginary & real animals.

The center of the stone-paved courtyard fully enclosed by wooden cloisters, is lined with two rows of rank stones, indicating the positions of the officials with the highest rank being closer to the hall & where the court officials used to stand.

 
At the back of the Throne Hall is a group of 3 offices where the king used to meet with his top officials. Displayed in front of the King's official quarters is Angbuilgu, an interesting Sundial that was used during the Joseon period. Learn how to tell time & 24 periods of seasonal change from the winter solstice to the summer solstice.

Take time to see Gyeonghoeru literally meaning “Pavilion of Joyous Meeting”. Sitting on the island in the rectangular lake that is 128m wide & 113m across and supported by 48 square & cylindrical massive stone pillars representing the idea of Yin & Yang, this magnificent Pavilion was used for many purposes ranging from receptions of foreign envoys to national level examinations.

Next up is Gangnyeongjeon, the king’s sleeping & living quarters. Named after the “virtue of health”, this is the main residence with 14 bedchambers resting on top of a tall stone foundation. Behind this complex is Gyotaejeon, the queen's domain containing a number of halls. It was a private space for the king & queen but was also a space for the queen’s public role & responsibilities. The noted feature of these main buildings is an absence of a top roof ridge. A prominent theory is that, since the king was symbolized as the dragon, the Yongmaru, which contains the letter dragon or Yong, cannot rest on top of the king when he is asleep.

You cannot miss Amisan Garden landscaped with four hexagonal chimneys in orange bricks & decorative roof tiles, and artistic patterns of brick on the walls of queen's quarters which are seldom noticed by the hurried visitors. Jagyeongjeon is the queen dowager's residence. Although less colorful, it is worth noting the wall of Jagyeongjeon, adorned with floral designs & the chimneys with 10 longevity symbols.

Hyangwonjeong features a small pond with a manmade islet that supports a beautiful two-story pavilion & is one of the famous sites in the palace. Behind this serene garden is Geoncheonggung, where the king & queen could relax in peace & quiet. It was here that the first electric lights in the country were installed in 1887 in 9 years of Thomas Edison's invention and a tragic chapter in Korea's history was recorded when empress Myeongseong was assassinated by the sword-bearing Japanese assassins in the early morning of 8 October 1895, allegedly under orders from Miura Goro. The assassins killed 3 court women suspected of being Empress Myeongseong. When they confirmed that one of them was the Empress, they burned the corpse in a pine forest in front of the Okhoru Pavilion. 

Upon exit through the Sinmumun Gate, & walk out of the Palace. Spend a few minutes to take some pictures in front of the Blue House, the executive office & official residence of the President of Korea.

Then back into the palace for further insights about the cultural wealth of this friendly & picturesque nation. Explore the National Folklore Museum showcasing life & work, costumes & ornaments, handicrafts & technology, education, living quarters, dietary life, oriental medicine, performing arts & games, beliefs & rituals, and socio cultural life of the Korean people from the prehistoric age to the Joseon Dynasty.

Then, stroll down the cobblestone walkways admiring upscale art galleries & antique shops in Insa-dong. It is a unique area of Seoul that truly represents the traditional Korean art & antiques. Clustered along the main street & a multitude of alleys that lead deeper into the district, are numerous shops dealing in antiques, oriental art supplies, and modern Korean arts of all types & styles. A number of Galleries also vie for attention with their exhibitions of works by modern artists. Here, you will look for some souvenirs or simply wonder around & browse.

The Palace Tour concludes & you hop on to the vehicle again & drive past Dongdaemun which once served as the east gate of Seoul. Originally built in 1398 & called Heunginjimun or “Gate of Uplifting Mercy”, it sits in a low & flat region of Seoul & was an easy target for invaders. To compensate for this topographic weakness, a semicircular fortress which extends beyond the arched gateway was constructed, providing a narrow entranceway.

Next stop is at Gyeongdong herb market, one of the largest herbal medicine markets in Korea. There are more than 1000 pharmaceutical stores, oriental health clinics & herbal drugstores selling various Asian medicines, ginseng, spices, herbs & roots. All sorts of things with medicinal value are laid out, including herbs, flowers, mushrooms, roots, berries, chili & seeds. You can also find licorice, mugwort, & ginger. Here, you will learn how Korean traditional market merchants live in their own way. There are lot of things that may not be familiar to foreigners, but most of them can be sampled. The atmosphere is filled with the rich fragrance of raw medicinal products. Stroll down the market & take a deep breath nd you will immediately feel rejuvenated & relaxed,

Proceed to enjoy a panoramic view of Seoul from the N Tower observatory.

Perched on top of Namsan Mountain at 243m the, 236.7m tall Tower tops out at 479.7m above sea level. It is the absolute best place to enjoy the most enthralling vistas of Seoul.

Near the tower base, you cannot possibly miss the Time Capsule. Buried in 1985 under 15m of the ground, it holds 466 relics representing contemporary Korean lifestyle & culture. The Capsule is scheduled to open five hundred years later in 2485. There are thousands of Love Padlocks hanging from all sides, overwhelming the wire fence, without their keys to symbolize that the couple’s love for each other is forever. Furthermore, Love Trees made of hundreds of locks are quite a sight to behold.

The sightseeing concludes & you will be transferred back to the hotel by late afternoon.

Balance of the day is at leisure to relax or for optional activities (we would be happy to offer suggestions & make the arrangements).

Day 3 - | Seoul  vSuwon vHaemi  vYesan v Gongjuv Buyeo Drive:260 km 

Early morning, depart for Buyeo.

Enroute, you will have the chance to discover some interesting places.

First stop is Suwon to explore the 18^th century UNESCO World Heritage site of Hwaseong Fortress & learn some of Korea's long history of the Joseon Dynasty.

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress was not only the foundation of King Jeongjo's filial piety, it was built as a center of political design & ambition of the Joseon Dynasty.

As you drive to the Fortress, amidst beautiful natural surroundings, you will pass by Suwon’s main commercial district with its conventional market retail outlets where the hustle & bustle of people shopping for food, vegetables, fish, meat, household items, clothing & tools.

The Fortress built enclosing a 5.74 km of flatland & hilly terrain, features crenels & merlons and is highlighted by 4 main gates & over 50 structures including the ‘temporary’ palace where the king sought refuge during war & peace.

A walk through the Fortress could take several hours but it is well worth making a short walking tour to enjoy the splendor of the building. There is also an Archery field where visitors can hone their skills with a bow & arrow, after being imparted a basic lesson of Korean archery (Gukgung) before they try shooting on their own.

Start with a visit to Paldalmun Gate, an imposing 2 storey wooden pavilion standing on top of a stone structure with an arched entrance, which is shielded by a semicircular chemise built of bricks & flanked by guard platforms on either side.

Explore the Sentry post perched on the edge of the turret, beacon tower which possesses 5 chimneys to create different smoke signals & Changryongmun Gate where the builders’ names are carved into the walls.  Beside this Gate, there stands a 6.8m tall oval shape Watch Tower which has an internal spiral staircase leading up to the top. There is also a Command Post & secret gate leading down to the dark labyrinth below. Inconspicuous & hidden out of sight, it was used by people & animals to bring war munitions into the fortress.

An exquisite Pavilion called “chasing after flowers” is located on a hill that overlooks a lotus pond surrounded by beautiful willow trees. Below the Pavilion there is the Northern Floodgate, a stone bridge with 7 arched sluices topped by an elegant open pavilion & brick-built parapet,

A little further on is the Janganmun Gate constructed in 1794 (Jungjo 18) - largest of the Hwaseong's 4 Gates & the main gate of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. The word Jangan means the “capital & the well-being of the people”. Janganmun features a magnificent roof of Ujingak (where the roof surface is inclined in all directions). Outside, there is a half moon-shaped Castle, which serves as a protection for the Gate (or vice-versa).

Next, travel to Seosan - a beautiful city in South Chungcheong-do province with many historical sites related to a tragic history of Catholic persecution.

Built around 600 years ago during the Joseon period, the Haemi-eupseong Fortress is very well preserved & is linked with a tragic history of Catholic persecution.

Every year, Catholics visit this location to remember & pay tribute to the nameless martyrs who sacrificed their lives for their belief. In August 2014, Pope Francis visited the Fortress with the nearby Haemi Martyrdom Holy Ground.

The Fortress has been a military base & a historically significant site where both the commander-in-chief of Chungcheong-do Province & the great Admiral Yi Sun-shin had once served. In modern times, the Fortress served as the backdrop for the turbulent Donghak Peasants Revolution (1894) & Catholic Persecution.

Architecture aside, Haemi Fortress's historical importance is closely tied with the history of the Catholic Church in Korea. It is Korea’s largest sacred ground of martyrs, as it is the place of execution for nearly 1,000 Roman Catholics during the Byeongin Persecution of 1866.

Inside of the Fortress, there is a 600 year old 18 meter high Hoya tree standing in front of prison building, which was used for hanging & torturing Catholics at the time of Catholic persecution.

Near the Haemicheon Stream in the Fortress is the Yeosutgo Martyrs’ Shrine - the most meaningful sacred place, as it was dyed by the blessed Martyrs’ blood during the severe persecution that went from 1707 to 1872. The 16 meter high Memorial Tower is dedicated to those who martyred here. The rock to the right of the Memorial has a particularly macabre history - some of the victims were executed by ramming their heads repeatedly into the stone. Most martyrs remain unknown because the Koran officials at Haemi abused their authority without adhering government policies. So there are no tangible records about their actions.

As it was difficult to execute them one by one, Catholic martyrs were buried alive in a big hole, drowned & otherwise killed en masse. When confronted with their death, the martyrs prayed while singing ‘Yesumaria’ (Jesus Maria). Since it also sounds like “Yeosumeori”, the place is also known as ‘Yeosutgol’.

Visitors can enjoy various programs inside the Fortress. There are Gukak & Pansori (Korean traditional folk music) Performances. There are also facilities for traditional games like Tuho (arrow throwing), Yutnori (traditional board game) & Jige (carrying a wooden frame with heavy bags of grain or bundles of firewood upon one’s back). You can also see old weapons like Canons & Catapults from Joseon dynasty.

Next stop is the nearby Yesan County where you will visit the 6^th century Sudeoksa Temple – the head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism & has played an important role in the history of Korea’s Buddhism.

Literally an extension of Buddhist philosophy, the Temple appears impervious to the progression of time. And although scores of tourists roll in every day in their BMWs to take pictures of the iconic wooden temple & the surrounding site, Sudeoksa lives at its own pace.

Constructed in 1308, Sudeoksa was one of very few temples not destroyed during the Japanese invasions of Korea & has now been designated a national treasure.

The Temple is rather unremarkable, laid out along a more or less central axis with the standard entry sequence of multiple gates placed on land that slopes up toward the main courtyard. Between 1528 & 1803, it was repaired 4 times, but fortunately retained its original beauty.

The main Worship Hall of the Temple - the Daeunjeon - has been preserved in its original condition & is thought to be one of the oldest wooden buildings in the country. Another cultural treasure worthy of note is the elegant 14th century 4.1 meter high 3 story stone pagoda from Goryeon period (918-1392).

Continue driving to Gongju, a small charming city that once served as the capital of the Baekje Kingdom for 63 years from 475 to 538. There are a handful of sights here that draw on that legacy; the most notable is the Tomb of King Muryeong (renamed as Gongju National Museum).

Visit the Museum & get a glimpse of the fascinating archaeological articles from Baekje (BC18 - AD660) era & artifacts excavated from the royal Tomb of King Muryeong (501-524), one of the last rulers to reign in the capital of Gongju

The Museum holds 10,000 artifacts including 19 national treasures & 3 treasures excavated in Daejeon & Chungcheongnam-do areas, especially artifacts from Tomb of King Muryeong

Also walk to the UNESCO World Heritage listed Songsan-ri Tombs, a group of royal tombs that just look like a cluster of grassy knolls.

The Tomb of King Muryeong (462 - 523), the 25^th Baekje king & his wife, the queen, was discovered completely by accident in 1971 & was found miraculously intact since it’s sealing in the early 6^th century, with its more than 4,600 antiquities in good condition. The King’s Tomb was made of bricks with a vaulted ceiling while the other 6 were built as stone chambers with domed ceilings.

The actual Tomb & 6 others in the vicinity aren't open to the public. But the Museum has excellent, albeit miniature duplicate models of 2 of them that you can enter.

Depending on the available time, you may also visit the adjacent Gongsan-seong Fortress located atop the Gongsan mountain.

The Fort extends over a length of 2,666 metres with a 1,925 metres stone wall & a 735 metres extension with a sand wall. It was unearthed during the archaeological excavations done after 1980s, when the construction methods in building the Fort's rampart, the royal palace & the associated structures of the royal palace were revealed.

It was built as a defense fortification adapted to the local topography by linking mountain peaks & bridging the valleys. Following the collapse of the Baekje Empire, the ramparts were rebuilt fully as stone walls. It functioned both as a defense structure & a royal palace.

Continue driving to your final destination.

Arrive in Buyeo by evening & Check-in at the hotel.

Buyeo is a pretty, countryside town with a slower pace of life and terrific historical sights; it is compact & walkable, with no buildings taller than 5 floors. Stroll in green parks, enjoy top-notch food & you will quickly notice Korea's urban tussle doesn't exist here.

Buyeo, previously known as Sabi, was an ancient Korean kingdom centred around the middle of Manchuria & existing as an independent polity from before the late 2^nd century BC to the mid-4^th century.

During the Three Kingdoms Era, the capital of Baekje was moved to present-day Buyeo-eup on account of crowding in the former capital, which was near present-day Seoul. Though Buyeo was considered a better site for the capital, today it is more of a backwater than Gongju.

This town is not a major tourist destination, but it has many nice tourist sites. There are temples, graves, & quiet nature walks with a relaxed & uncrowded atmosphere. Home to several Baekje-era sites & relics. There is a statue of King Seong who moved the capital here in AD 538, on the roundabout in the town centre. This capital lasted till AD 660, when the combined Silla-Tang army destroyed the town.

A fortress called Garimseong was constructed for defending the new capital. Buyeo County has numerous historical sites from this era, such as the mountain fortresses (sanseong) at Seongheung, Buso, & Cheong, the tumuli at Neungsan-ri & the temple site at Gunsu-ri, all designated Historic Sites of South Korea.

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax or stroll around the town.

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 08.00 am & spend the morning exploring Buyeo, a melting pot of Baekje culture which is often regarded as the most artistically sophisticated of the Three Kingdoms.

Enjoy a stop at Gungnamji located in Seodong Park and take a stroll along the Korea's oldest artificial pond.  

Seodong Park is a sculpture park displaying 68 sculptures created by famous Korean sculptors. Mahan Hall showcases the lifestyle & culture of Mahan, a tribal confederation during the Samhan period. The Park also features various facilities such as an observatory, fishing spot & a promenade. An interesting Park where the grounds are mostly covered by pond water in lotus shape. One can walk on stone paths, or one of the numerous pathways around the pond with a pavilion in the centre, connected by a long wooden bridge.

Gungnamji Pond was created back to 634 by King Mu (from the Baekje Dynasty) who was in love with & eventually married Princess Seonhwa ‘Gungnamji’ (literally means ‘a pond in the south of the royal palace’ in Korean) & named it after her.

According to a record in the Samguksagi, the History of the Three Kingdoms, King Mu dug this lake south of his palace in the 35^th year of his reign & connected it by a 7800 meter long waterway to the water source. Built as a pleasure garden for the royal family, king had this circular pond ringed by bare-branched weeping willow trees around the bank & had an artificial mound constructed in the middle of the lake.

In July, this Pond explodes with colour as thousands of lotus flowers bloom. The Buyeo SeoDong Lotus Festival that month also transforms the surrounding Park into a busy place with activities & exhibits around the Pond.

Then continue your trip to the Jeongrimsa Temple & Museum, one of the city's most distinctive & outstanding landmarks.

Check out the ruins of the lotus pond, a 5.62m high Buddha sitting on a stone pedestal & a 500 year old 5 story stone Pagoda. There is a Museum on-site showing some of the history of the Baekje Dynasty in Buyeo. There is an impressive 65% scale model of the temple grounds surrounded by a gate & perimeter walls, located inside the Museum. 

Proceed to Buyeo National Museum fully devoted to the Baekje culture.

The Museum has one of the best collections (with extensive English captions) of cultural artefacts from the Baekje Kingdom  - bronze daggers, halberds & mirrors from the Bronze Age to the pre-Sabi period, famous Buddha statues including the "Baekje Smile" , making it a good place to get a primer on pre-Baekje & Baekje culture.

The highlight is a glittering 12 kg Baekje-era Incense Burner covered with incredibly intricate & well-preserved metalwork, crested with the legendary bonghwang bird.

You will find the spirit & the essence of the brilliant culture of Baekje as you marvel at the beautiful gilt bronze burner, categorized by lid, bowl & a pedestal. The top of the Lid is capped with a phoenix, which appears as if it is ready to fly away, holding a cintamani ball & on the cover, 42 animals such as the phoenix, tiger, deer & other animals hanging about in the spaces among 74 mountain peaks thinly cast in five layers reaching the top. The lid is also ventilated with 10 holes to release the scent of the incense.

The Bowl is shaped in the form of a blossoming lotus. The petals of the lotus also contain 2 human figures & 27 animals on the lateral surface including fish, heavenly beasts & birds. Some of the animals rest between the lotus petals, while others are top.

The Pedestal stand is in the shape of a dragon surrounded by a blowing bronze motif of clouds with its mouth supporting the base of the bowl & its own tail is arched, giving the base a sense of movement.

Stroll up paths to Busosan-seong mud Fortress on top of Busosan Mountain, to explore the Baekje fortification.

Busosan Mountain was once considered the guardian mountain of Buyeo & is home to historic landmarks from the Baekje Kingdom (18 BC - 660 AD). The mountain Fortress covering the forested hill of Buso-san, is estimated by some to have been built around 538 AD (16^th year of King Seongwang) to protect Sabi (now Buyeo) which was once the capital of the Baekje Kingdom.

At the top of the hill sits Yeongullu pavilion where the king once came to watch the sun rise over his kingdom.  Structures such as the Banwollu Pavilion offer lovely views of the surrounding countryside. Sandy paths weave through pine trees past temples & pavilions. At the foot of the hill stands a small shrine called Samchung-sa dedicated to 3 loyal subjects - Gyebaek, Seongchung & Heungsu.

The mountain is also home to Nakhwa-am Rock where, according to legend, 3,000 women of the Baekje Kingdom threw themselves into the river below after the collapse of the empire. 

Nakhwa-am literally meaning “Falling Flower Rock” was built on a bluff overlooking the Geum River at the bend called Baekma, in memory of those women.

A little further down the trail, you will see a pavilion called Baekhwajeong perched at the top of the rock.

From Nakhwa-am, there is a rocky & somewhat steep path down to the tiny temple at the bottom of the cliff Goran-sa (which takes its name from Crypsinus Hastatus plants with medicinal properties that grow behind the temple).

The Temple, Samchung-sa, is dedicated to 3 loyal Baekje court officials, including General Gyebaek. Despite being outnumbered 10 to one, he led his army of 5000 in a last stand against the final Silla & Chinese onslaught in AD 660. The Baekje army dauntlessly repulsed 4 enemy attacks but was defeated in the 5^th – the coup de grace for the kingdom.

As enemies swarmed into the capital, 3000 court ladies flung themselves into the water from this Bluff on the northern side of the Fortress into the Baengma-gang river rather than suffer the shame of submitting to atrocities of the conquering enemy armies. 

Continue to Gwanchoksa Temple located at the foot of Banyasan Mountain, to see Korea's largest free-standing 10^th century stone Buddha.

The Seokjomireukbosalipsang Buddha built over the course of 38 years, during the Goryeo period, is one of the country's most unusual Buddha statues.

According to legend, while a lady was picking fernbrake on Banyasan Mountain, she heard a baby crying. When she went over, there was no baby but instead was a large rock sticking out from the ground. Upon hearing this story, the government ordered a Buddha statue to be made from the rock.

The  Eunjin Mireuk  is an extraordinary statue with a disproportionately large head in relation to the small body &  wearing a lofty flat mortar board hat on top of its headpiece with wind chimes hanging from its four corners. The image features seem jolly & complacent, though perhaps not so intended.  The statue is 18.12m height, 9.9m girth, 1.8m in the length of ears, 2.43m at the height of crown. There are many other cultural artifacts to see here.

Drive on to Ganggyeong-eup which was an important colonial port town during the Japanese occupation, in a fertile area surrounded by rice fields, on the waterway between Gunsan, Nonsan & Iksan.

Visiting Ganggyeong is like stepping back into the past, a profound historical experience compared to other towns in the region. As industrialization swept the peninsula in the 1960s & 1970s and also the changes to the waterway contributed to the port’s disappearance & Ganggyeong was left behind. The flip side however, is a well preserved early modern Korean town that retains so much more of its authenticity that parts of Ganggyeong seem to still be stuck in the 1930s & 1940s.

While the town no longer operates as a major market center as it did in its colonial days, Ganggyeong is still renowned for its traditional salted seafood market. The market stocks both fresh seafood & salted seafood, which has been fermented at low temperature. Today, the market accounts for half of the nation's total sales of salted seafood.

As you stroll through the old downtown area, you will see a number of shops selling salted seafood & some of the old buildings; electric company office, banks, custom tailor shop, clinics, school & a labor union office recalling the glory days.

And now, drive on to the end point where you will stay for the night.

Reach Jeonju - a city in western South Korea, by afternoon & Check-in at the hotel.

The centrally located Jeonju boasts a time-honored tradition as well as significant cultural & artistic heritage.  The name Jeonju literally means "Perfect Region". It is famous for being the birthplace of both the Joseon dynasty & Korea’s most well-known culinary delight, bibimbap (rice, egg & vegetables with a hot sauce), for its historic buildings, sports activities & innovative festivals.

Relax for an hour before meeting the Tour-guide again & proceed for a 4 hour sightseeing tour.

You can experience a variety of traditional Korean culture such as making traditional Korean paper (Hanji) or trying Korean liquor.

Visit the hugely popular Jeonju Hanok Heritage Village, an area comprising of dozens of Hanoks

(traditional Korean houses)  constructed in the Joseon period (1392-1910) &  retaining much of their perfection intact along with craft shops & food stalls.

Near the entrance of the complex stands 15^th century Gyeonggijeon Shrine that holds the portrait of founder king of Joseon dynasty, featuring him seated in a magnificent red chair with three gold-foiled dragons on his royal blue robes.

And on its front is the beautiful Byzantine & Romanesque Jeondong Catholic church, one of the oldest & largest Western-style buildings in the region, designed & constructed in 1914 by master church builder Victor Lousi Poisnel, the Norman priest whose work in Korea includes Myeongdong Cathedral in Seoul.

Just west of the church is the stately Pungnammun gate, where 3 Catholics paid for their religion with martyrdom on December 8, 1791, marking the beginning of the persecution in Korea.

Visit Jeonju Korean Traditional Wine Museum which offers visitors the unique chance to explore the world of traditional Korean liquor and engage in related hands-on

experience programs, making of local rice wines

There is the Hansol Paper Museum that records the history of paper making & usage since the age of the Egyptians.  There are some displays on traditional Korean paper making. You will also have a chance to make a piece of paper there as well. There is an interesting movie shown in English upon request although the signage is in Korean only.

Another place worth visiting, depending on the time, is the small Jeonju National Museum. Established in 1990, the Museum is committed to collecting, preserving, investigating, teaching, and exhibiting the outstanding cultural heritage of Jeollabuk-do & has evolved into the region’s principal cultural institution, playing a crucial role in cultural exchange with other institutions, both domestic & international.

Walking around in the city centre centre, you can see the Gaeksa built around 1471. The building was used to accommodate important visitors. Rituals to honour the king were also held here. Today, it is a meeting place for many as well as a hangout location for many older people.

You may also visit Ohmockdae - a small hill with a traditional house on top located just outside the Village. There are a couple of centuries old hilltop pavilions with sweeping views, especially night view of the city.

A half day is hardly enough time to take in the village's outstanding features & experiment with new food while exploring a delightful mishmash of streets & alleys but good enough.

The tour ends & you return to the hotel.

Balance of the evening s at leisure to relax or walk around on your own.

Morning, depart for Gwangju.

Enroute, make a couple of Stops.

Stop at Gimje to see Geumsansa Temple built in 600 during the reign of King Beop of Baekje, one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea that ruled the Korean peninsula during this period.

As a faithful Buddhist, King Beop issued a royal edict to prohibit the killing of any living creatures in 599 & ordained 38 Buddhist monks. It was the main temple for practicing the Maitreya faith during the Silla period. From 722, during the reign of King Gyeongdeok of Silla until 766 in King Hyegong's reign, Geumsansa was rebuilt & greatly expanded under the direction of Master Jinpyo.

According to the traditional folklore, Master Jinpyo had a vision of Maitreya, the Buddha of the future & received a book on divination in two rolls along with 189 divination sticks from Maitreya.

Jinpyo thereafter created a statue of the Maitreya to be enshrined in the main hall which became the basis of the East Asian Yogacara School. As a result of the expansion, Geumsansa became the headquarters for practicing the Maitreya faith during Later Silla (668-935) period.

The Maitreya Buddha Hall is a 3 story wooden structure, a unique among Korean Buddhist halls. Enshrined in the hall is a huge Maitreya Buddha. Maitreya is refining his bodhisattva practice in Tusita but will come down to earth in the future and become a Buddha. He is attended by Dharma Flower Grove Bodhisattva on his left & Great Wonderful Aspect Bodhisattva on his right.

On the 1^st & 2^nd floors there are 5 rooms at the front & 4 rooms off to the side. On the 3^rd floor there are 3 rooms at the front & 2 rooms off to the side. The roofs of the 1^st & 2^nd levels are supported by six pillars across the front & back of the building, with 5 pillars running along each side. Clusters of brackets support the eaves of the roofs while the main wooden support pillar on the inside of the hall is made of multiple pieces. These pillars are constructed in the minheullim style, meaning the pillar gets thinner as it ascends.

During the first Japanese military campaign of Hideyoshi Toyotomi in 1592, Geumsansa also played a defensive role. The Buddhist volunteer corps, with over a thousand monks led by Master Noemuk used Geumsansa for a training ground.

During the second Japanese military campaign, the Buddhist volunteer corps established their headquarters at Geumsansa. However, the entire temple complex subsequently suffered a tragic fate when the pavilion & outlying hermitages were burned to the ground by the invading Japanese forces.

The present buildings were rebuilt in 1635 after the previous ones were destroyed by the Japanese invasions of Korea. The Temple currently serves as one of the principle Buddhist centers in the region & is one of the largest temples in South Korea.

A 5 story pagoda from Goryeo period stands at 7.5m near Maitreya hall. It is relatively large in size, but has a simple appearance.

Continue driving & stop next at Buan. County North Jeolla Province, bounded by the city of Jeongeup on the east, the county of Gochang on the south, the city of Gimje on the north & Yellow Sea on the west.

Tide permitting, stop off at the coast to see the Chaeseokgang natural rock formations that look like stacked books.

Chaeseokgang can be entered twice a day when water is drained. At low tide, you can see the mysterious appearance of sea creatures & sea caves that are stuck in the sedimentary rock layers that have been drained. In particular, the tide & sunset seen from the Haesik Cave during low tide are so beautiful that they cannot be expressed in words.

See the nearby Naesosa Temple, a 1000 year old temple founded during the reign of Baekjae King Mu, located at the westernmost tip of Korea on the magnificent Byensan Peninsula.

Once you step through the Iljoomun (One Pillar Gate), fir trees stand tall above the forest road, providing a tunnel under which you will walk into the main gate of the Buddha's world. They emit a distinctive fragrance that seems to purify our minds from daily drudgery.

The Temple’s name means “May anyone who comes here revives their life.” Unlike most of the Korean temples, Naesosa is less colorful, mostly bare wood, with a few faded murals on the ceiling & beams inside the temple but it is an immensely tranquil place. Nothing is out of place, nothing is hurried or loud, everything moves on slowly, steadily, towards no specific end. Timeless is too brief for this place.

The Daeoongbojeon (Main Buddha Hall) is admired for its elaborate architectural style & it is famous for elegant decorative flowery patterns on the door frames. Inside the Main Buddha Hall there is a painting of a white-clad Gwanseumbosal figure. If you stare into its eyes, it seems to follow you wherever you go. There is a legend saying that if you make a wish while looking straight into the figure’s moving eyes, the wish will come true.

There is also a fascinating story concerning the colorful Dancheong (decorative painting) in the building that is quite well-known. When the construction of the Buddha Hall was completed, an artist volunteered to paint the interior, under the condition that nobody looks inside the hall for a period of one hundred days. On the 99^th day, a young monk who couldn’t restrain his curiosity any longer, peeked inside the hall and saw a golden bird grasping a brush in its peak & flying around, painting the interior. Surprised at his appearance, the bird stopped painting & flew away. To this day, one side of the hall remains bare & unpainted.

Drive for an hour to reach the next rural Gochang County - home to an institution of higher education: Gochang Polytechnic College The famous 20^th century Korean poet Midang also lived here. But Gochang region is more renowned for having the most dolmen sites in Korea.

Some of the dolmens in Dosan-ri, Sanggap-ri & Maesan-ri are of the southern style, whereas most of those in the rest of North Jeolla-do Province are of the northern style. This proves that a wide scope of culture existed in the town in the prehistoric times. Gochang is where Morobiri, one of the 54 small countries during the ancient Mahan Period was located. The Gochang Dolmens located in Maesan village are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

You will visit Gochang Dolmen Museum providing comprehensive information about Dolmen with its theme park featuring a life-size village replica.

It is an excellent facility where visitors can view diverse relics of Bronze Age & learn about culture, including quarry, transportation, construction, burial & dolmen tomb formats, rituals, relics excavated in Gochang & life of the pre-historic people.

In addition to a variety of exhibition halls, the Museum also features interactive exhibit spaces that help visitors to further explore the main themes of the Museum. There is also a mock-up of an ancient dugout hut where visitors may take photos. Outside the museum is the Bronze Age theme park, which features a life-size pre-historic village replica, a dolmen experience zone & an exhibition zone displaying a representative memorial service from the Bronze Age.

Near the Museum is UNESCO World Heritage site of Dolmen Park, the largest concentration of dolmens perhaps anywhere in the world.

History buffs will want to stroll around the hills surrounding Gochang & ponder the mystery of 447 dolmens & prehistoric tombs. There are 6 trails leading around huge boulders dotting the countryside.

Dolmens are megalithic funerary monuments - stone graves/tombs - which figured prominently in Neolithic & Bronze Age cultures across the world during the 2^nd & 1^st millennia BCE.

Dolmens are largely concentrated in Northeast Asia with Korea having a total of 447 dolmens of various types are scattered at the foot of a series of hills. Generally, the capstones of the dolmens are around 1 to 5.8 meters in length & may weigh up to 225 tons.

The prehistoric Cemeteries at Gochang, Hwasun & Ganghwa contain many hundreds of examples of dolmens - tombs from the 1st millennium BC constructed of large stone slabs. They form part of the Megalithic culture, found in many parts of the world, but nowhere in such a concentrated form.

The sites contain the highest density & variety of dolmens in Korea & indeed of any country. Usually consisting of two or more undressed stone slabs supporting a huge capstone, it is generally accepted that they were simply burial chambers, erected over the bodies or bones of deceased worthies. They are usually found in cemeteries on elevated sites & are of great archaeological value for the information that they provide about the prehistoric people who built them and their social & political systems, beliefs & rituals, arts & ceremonies.

Last site to visit in Gochang is the adjacent Gochangeupseong Fortress, a very good illustration of Korea's fortress architecture. Built in the early days of the Joseon Dynasty to protect the town against Japanese invaders, the 1.7km perimeter Fortress is the best-preserved Fortress in the country. Local belief being that the one trip around the fortress will cure leg disease, two trips will prevent disease and give you a long life, and three trips will bring you to the paradise.

Reach the hotel in Gwangju by evening & Check-in.

Gwangju - Korea's 6^th largest city in the southwest, defined by its powerful political history & reverence for creativity.

Often considered the birthplace of Korean democracy, the effects of the May 18 Democratic Uprising - a 1980 mass protest against South Korea's then-authoritarian military government - remain a strong part of the city's identity. The event is commemorated by the 5·18 Memorial Park, with tree-lined paths & dramatic bronze sculptures & the 5·18 National Cemetery.

East, the craggy Mudeungsan Mountain National Park has striking rock formations. In the foothills, the rebuilt 6th-century Jeungsimsa Temple has a Silla-era stone pagoda. Art abounds at every turn thanks to a wealth of museums, exhibitions & festivals that are bolstered by civic investment.

Balance of the evening s at leisure to relax or walk around on your own.

 Morning, Check-out & depart for Yeosu.

Enroute, make stops at some interesting places.

First stop is Hwasun County which was an administrative community in the Japanese Empire, at the confluence of 3 rivers: Jiseokcheon River to Neungju; Hwasuncheon River to Hwasun, & Dongbokcheon River to Dongbok.

Recently relics (residential remains) from the Stone Age & Middle Stone Age were excavated in a stone-lines tomb at Daegok-ri in the region, illustrating that people lived from very old times. The Bronze Age remains include 1,180 dolmens (prehistoric age graves).

The prehistoric cemeteries at Gochang, Hwasun & Ganghwa contain many hundreds of examples of dolmens - tombs from the 1^st millennium BC constructed of large stone slabs. The Gochang, Hwasun & Ganghwa Dolmen Sites preserve important evidence of how stones were quarried, transported & raised and of how dolmen types changed over time in northeast Asia.

They form part of the Megalithic culture, found in many parts of the world, but nowhere in such a concentrated form. There are about 19,000 only in Jeonnam region & Hwasun is a representative center with about 2,000. Hwasun dolmens have been designated as cultural asset.

Visit a late 10^th century Korean Buddhist temple - Unju built during the Goryeo Dynasty & situated on Mt. Cheonbulsan in the upper reaches of Daechocheon Stream, a tributary of the Yeongsangang River.

The Temple enjoyed its apogee in the 12^th century, but was forced to shut down following a fire during the Japanese invasion. The numerous monuments encompassed by Unjusa Temple have long been the subject of extensive academic research.

Uniquely housing an amazing number of 141 stone pagodas & 115 stone Buddha dotting the low-rising hills about 100 meters above sea level on either side of the valley, in addition to its buildings, the Buddhist monastery is best known for its nickname cheonbul cheontap, “a thousand statues & a thousand pagodas” (there once stood 1000 Buddha images & stone pagodas which are said to have built overnight by Silla monk).

Fully 62 have survived intact & there are many partially remaining but missing the body or the head. They stand alone or in groups, with the free-standing images found in the more level middle sections of the hills & on their peaks or engraved in rocks. The Buddhist images at the Temple are presented in diverse positions - reclining, sitting, standing & even two Buddhas seated back to back. Buddha clusters are mainly in stone shrines made from rocks, generally in the form of a seated Buddha in the middle flanked by standing images. There is a stone Buddha carved out of a large boulder in the ground, claiming the largest reclining Stone Statues of Buddha in Korea. Their spatial positioning & morphological & stylistic diversity have little parallel in the Buddhist heritage of not only Korea, but anywhere in East Asia. The Buddhist heritage here exhibits strong Taoist & Esoteric influences and retains the intact form of quarrying & marks from the transportation of the stone.

Next drive on to Boseong, famous as Korea's largest producer of green tea, and its namesake town is the gateway to the Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation. As you make your way up, you will see a number of tea plantations where the carefully trimmed tea trees stretch endlessly over steep mountain slopes - a lush green carpet that is a sight to behold.

Wild tea has been cultivated here as far back as the mid 300’s BC while green tea was introduced to Korea from China in the 600’s AD during the Silla Dynasty. During the Goryeo Dynasty, Tea was mainly farmed at the temples & the royal court. During the Joseon Dynasty, it began to be grow naturally in Jeolla & Gyeongsang provinces by regular farmers.

An official green tea Plantation was developed in the 1930’s after the Japanese decided it was the best place to cultivate green tea in the peninsula. However, that Plantation fell victim to the Korean War & was pretty much destroyed.

In 1957, Chang Young Seop re-established the Daehan Tea Garden & built it into what it is now (this is also why you will sometimes see “1957” on different souvenirs or stores).

Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful sites in South Korea, Daehan Dawon is an oasis of verdancy & tranquility. Blanketed in soft, rolling hills of beautifully landscaped tea hedges, the Farm functions as one of the biggest producers of the country’s green-tea products & is perhaps the area’s most popular tourist attraction.

Presently, the tea fields boast approximately 5.8 million tea bushes & 3 million plants which are harvested to make yubi-cha - often considered to be Korea’s best variety, thanks to its superb taste & aroma. Boseong as a whole is responsible for 40% of Korea’s tea production. While there are some other privately owned plantations in the county, the Daehan with its fully organic farming methods, is the biggest.

The seemingly endless rows of tea hedges trace a number of walking paths that are punctuated by groves of 30m cedar, bamboo, maple or cypress trees that had been planted to block the wind speed.

Commence your Walk from the plantation’s entrance down the cedar path - perhaps the most notable attraction of the site, second only to the tea plants themselves. The journey continues to the rest area, where visitors can opt to climb up the stairway to get to the Central Observatory, which overlooks the plantation’s majestic green tea landscapes.

Or, you can follow the alternate Sun Tree Trail toward the Field Observatory or the Sea Observatory. Both trails offer views of the extensive plantation, its thick forests & the sea in the distance. You will also see a little waterfall area. Around the falls area, you will either be able to continue going down or towards the center path in the tea fields.

The Trek takes maybe 1 1/2 – 2 hours depending on your walking speed. There are opportunities to take plenty of photos!

Adjacent to the Daehan Dawon is the Tea Museum of Korea where visitors can learn more about the life cycle of the tea leaf, its harvesting & drinking culture. In addition, the Museum offers a number of programs such as tea-making & tea ceremony workshops that provide a unique, hands-on experience. Furthermore, visitors can get an up-close look at tea plants from Korea, China, Japan & India at the Museum’s arboretum.

Of course, no visit to Daehan Dawon would be complete without sampling some of the region’s unique green-tea cuisine. At the plantations’ Dawon Lounge, visitors can try green tea ice cream, milkshakes or lattes, all of which incorporate tea produced on the farm. The 2^nd floor of the lounge houses the Green Tea Restaurant, where visitors can order green tea jajangmyeon, cold green tea noodles and green tea bibimbap.

After spending a couple of hours here, drive on to Naganeupseong, a historic Korean Folk village located in the Southwest province of Korea, noted for its well-preserved cultural landscape & traditional lifestyle continued from the Joseon & Goryeo Dynasty (1392-1918).  

A popular tourist destination for both Koreans & foreigners, it was an administrative town during the Joseon & Goryeo (918-1892) Dynasties, which has preserved the crucial elements of a traditional town village equipped with necessary facilities for both public & private purposes: a government office to rule over the town; fortress for defense; a cluster of private houses & forests forming a natural landscape & providing a space for rites. Its traditional folklore & natural landscape add to the village’s historic value.

The area of Naganseupseong dates all the way back to the Baekjae period (BC 18 - 660 AD) where there is evidence of village life. However, it grew into what it is known for today during the Joseon Dynasty which is considered the most influential era on Korean customs. Of the 96 similar villages that once existed & destroyed under Japanese colonial rule, only a few still survive today, and Naganeupseong is the best preserved.

Among Korea’s many folk villages, the well preserved Nagan allows visitors to observe houses & lifestyles that have all been passed down from the past. It is Korea’s best-preserved Fortress town, crammed with narrow, dry-stone alleyways leading to vegetable allotments and adobe & stone homes.

Unique in its setting, it is surrounded by 1410m of Joseon-period fortress walls, built using square-shaped stones - 4 meters in height, 3-4 meters in width & 1,410 meters in total length, to protect the inhabitants from marauding Japanese pirates

The folk village’s other source of pride is the monument of General Im Kyeong-eop (1594-1646). At every first full moon of the New Year, the village holds a ritual ceremony & celebration at the general’s monument.

Today there are still about 90 hanoks (traditional Korean houses) & nearly 300 people still call it home, inside the fortress. The Village’s biggest features are the narrow stone walls around the fortress & that it is built on the plain fields. One unusual aspect of the town is that it was inhabited by a number of different clans rather than having one dominant one.

While giwajip or the tiled-roof hanoks of Bukchon or Jeonju are more popular today, back in the day they were considered too expensive for the average Korean and only the upper classes & seonbi or scholar class were able to afford.

Naganeupseong’s hanoks are called chogaijip for their roofs made of rice straw, a fact distinguished from the other historic villages of Korea, where tile-roofed houses for the literali & thatch-roofed buildings for commoners are mixed.

Notably, the thatch-roofed houses show the typical floor plan & building arrangements - a line-shaped 3 bay building facing Southwest - revealing the traditional commoners’ housing style of the Southwestern province of Korea. A typical family will have a main house with 3 rooms, an outhouse, a shed for equipment & manure storage.

The village is also a venue for the transmission of important intangible cultural heritage, including folk music (nongak), communal rituals, gayageum (12-string instrument) performance with songs (gayageum byeongchang) and seasonal customs & rites. The Pansori epic chant has been transmitted in the fortress village.

It is also famous for being the home town of O Tae-seok, a renowned Korean musician playing gayageum with songs. To pray for the wellbeing of the village, communal rituals have been performed in the first month of the lunar calendar & communal music festivity has continued from the past.

You will see an entertaining part of the village. Step into Dongheon which was the main office in which governors, magistrates & military commanding officers conducted their respective local administrative & judiciary affairs.

And now onto your final destination.

Arrive at the hotel in Yeosu by afternoon & Check-in.

The molar-shaped port city of Yeosu is halfway along Korea’s steep, island-pocked & deeply indented southern East Korea’s China Sea coast. Its bustling city centre is nothing special, but its shoreline, peppered with cliffs, islands & peninsulas, is spectacular.

Yeosu is fairly spread out with a ton of districts each segregated by mountains or ocean & is one of the country's most picturesque port cities especially at night. The city consists of the Yeosu peninsula as well as 317 islands (49 inhabited, 268 uninhabited) with population of 300,000. Yeosu is developing like most of Korea, but retains a small-town charm that is vanishing from the country.

Yeosu is a city of history & loyalty where the headquarters of South Jeolla Province Navy Base was located & the local hero Great Admiral Yi Sun Shin (1545 - 98) invented the Geobukseon or "a turtle ship" to save the country & repel the Japanese invaders, while serving as the Navy Commander when Japan invaded Korea in 16^th century. You will see statues of him & replicas of the ships, around town; he is also on the ₩100 coin.

Yeosu also has the National Maritime & Fisheries Science Museum, with an aquarium of turtles. Famous for its seafood, beaches, flowers & marinas, it is developing as an international ocean resort and tourist destination. In 2012 Yeosu hosted the World's Fair International Exposition (called Expo 2012), which resulted in a redevelopment of the waterfront.

Later in the afternoon, meet the Tour-guide & proceed for a 4 hour sightseeing tour.

Yeosu itself is nothing special to look at but the natural surroundings offer some spectacular sights along the jagged coastline. Yeosu is definitely a hidden gem when it comes to scenery.

Drive on the beautiful Dolsan Bridge lit up brilliantly each night with a light show that compliments the colorful lights coming from the adjacent shore & buildings nearby and lots of seafood restaurants & romantic cafes around the area to reach Dolsan Island which draws a large crowd for its natural beauty & stunning views while being much more accessible than the other smaller islands.

At the northern tip of the Island you’ll find the tourist hot spot that is: Dolsan Park that offers views to remember. 

With the newly completed cable car ride across the bay, this Park is now regularly visited by excited tourists looking to gaze at the beautiful Dolsan Bridge before riding across the blue waters of Gamak Bay toward Jasan Park on the mainland. The thrill of riding a cable car across the bay is the latest attraction added to this area, but the views from Park itself are breathtaking, especially after dark.

Dolsan Park was created in 1987 & spans over 287,000 square meters. A Teahouse inside the Park was originally a TV drama shooting set. The teahouse offers a fine view of Dolsan Bridge, so visitors often stop by to drink tea while enjoying the view. The view point at the Park also overlooks magnificent sunsets over Dolsan Bridge & exquisite night views of Dolsan Bridge, Marine Park & Janggundo Island.

The Memorial Time Capsule, containing various materials related to the merger of Yeosu city, was buried in the center of Park in 1994 & will be opened in 2094.

Depending on the time, you may also see Hamel Park Memorial Museum built in the shape of a Dutch Ship, in the vicinity. Hendrick Hamel (1630 - 92), one of the Dutch survivors of a shipwreck near Jeju in 1653, was forced to stay in Korea for 13 years before escaping in a boat to Japan. Later he was the first Westerner to write a book on the ‘hermit kingdom’. The Korean people to commemorate him, built the tall Hamel Lighthouse & a statue of Hamel.

Get ready to drive back to the hotel & enroute pass by another famous Yeosu landmark.

Like any port town worth its salt, Yeosu has a bustling fish market. At Yeosu Seafood Market, you cannot but help notice the region's abundant resources in terms of seafood & fish resources.

The Market is lined with small shops & restaurants serving dishes using fresh seafood caught from the southern coast. In order to maintain the freshness of live fish, the Aquariums installed at each store use filtered & sterilized seawater, which is drawn off the coast near Dolsandaegyo Bridge.

Shops selling all kinds of fresh seafood from fish to octopus, sea squirts & crabs are located on the first floor, while the second level of the market is filled with restaurants waiting to serve. You can pick the seafood you want to eat & have it delivered to a restaurant on the second floor to prepare it for you!

Enjoy your meal as you take in the view of the sea, Yeosu Maritime Cable Car, and Dolsandaegyo Bridge.

If you want to bring some seafood home, visit the shops selling dried goods, including anchovies, laver & more.

Spend time here before returning to the hotel.

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax or walk around on your own.

Today, check-out before dawn & drive to the southern tip of the Dolsan Island to see the 7^th century Hyangilam Hermitage.

Yeosu’s most famous religious structure, Hyangiram is an old Buddhist Hermitage turned Temple (as most in Korea do) with a special draw. Heralded as having one of the best vantage points of both the sunrise & sunset views of the sea & the scattered islands that make up Yeosu Peninsula, in South Korea, this compound is as beautiful as it is old.

Perched on a gigantic pile of boulders located up the sides of a cliff, the entire Complex is connected by a series of very thin trails winding their way through tight cavernous caves & under twisted evergreen foliage between buildings & stunning views out to sea from the majority of the buildings, on the eastern tip of Geumosan, Rather claustrophobic, but unique.

The symbol of the Hermitage is the turtle, after the distinctive natural hexagonal pattern on the rocks resembling a turtle's shell. In accordance with this, the monks have crafted a veritable army of adorable little stone turtles large enough to perhaps take down Yeosu itself, should they so desire.

The Hermitage became more popular for the Korean folk-spiritual custom of praying for good-fortune or wisdom while watching the sunrise, especially on New Year's dawn regardless of Solar or Lunar. It is especially popular with the locals on New Year’s Day to take in the first sunrise. Many Buddhists visit throughout the year to pray, as it is considered one of the most sacred sites in the southern region.

There are two paths to reach the temple, both taking around 15 minutes to walk. You can take the easier route, following a walking path up the hillside, or you can take the hard road & walk straight up the staircase.

Don’t forget to check out the uniquely formed rocks & cliffs on the way. You will have to pass through Haetalmun Gate, a narrow opening between two rock walls. Get your camera ready for a photo; you don’t want to hold up traffic in this single-file passage!

Whether spiritual, religious, or simply an appreciative spectator of others’ faith, anyone able to visit Hyangiram will, at the very least, appreciate its beauty.

Explore this temple no matter your background. Equally wonderful is the market area leading away from Hyangiram where makgeolli & pajeon merchants offer the finest afternoon resting places. See ‘Wind Cafe’ for a coffee suggestion if you have drank too much rice wine after leaving the famous Hermitage.

Spend an hour there before leaving Yeosu to drive to Gurye.

Enroute, stop at Songgwang-sa Temple.

Korea’s primary Buddhism jewel temple, Tongdosa, represents Buddha himself & its 2^nd temple, Haeinsa, represents his teachings. Songgwangsa, the country’s 3^rd jewel temple, represents the seungga, or a community of Korean monks & nuns.

Featured in the Little Monk movie, it is a regional head temple of the Jogye sect, by far the largest in Korean Buddhism. It is also one of the oldest Zen temples in Korea, founded in the 10^th century, although most of the buildings date from the 17^th century.

Little is known of this temple’s early history, though, during the reign of the Unified Silla Dynasty, another temple called Gilsangsa existed on its original site & the mountain it was on, was called Songgwang-sa. In 1190, during the Goryeo Dynasty, a monk named Jinul who had started a large monastic community to the east called the Concentration & Wisdom Retreat Community, came to find larger facilities to house his followers. Jinul therefore founded the new & larger Suseonsa Temple on Gilsangsa’s property & renamed the mountain Jogyesan, which is still its name today. Later, Suseonsa was, in turn, renamed Songgwang-sa, ironically adopting the mountain’s first name.

Within its pine-scented grounds, Songgwang-sa has a number of official national treasures, aside from its buildings of interest. Right at the entrance, for example, is the Four Heavenly Kings gate, which was built in 1628 & was therefore presumably part of the restorative construction after the temple was destroyed by the Japanese invasion of the 1590s. Near the gate is an enormous rice bowl from the early 18^th century that was made for feeding visitors during national rituals. Other treasures include a small portable wooden triptych & a Tibetan book thought to have been donated by Kublai Khan, as well as an edict from the Goryeo Dynasty King Gojong proclaiming a monk named Hyegam as a National Preceptor.

Songgwang-sa’s claim to fame is that it’s the alma mater of numerous distinguished monks, including 15 other National Preceptors throughout the centuries. It continued its role as such into the 19^th & 20^th centuries, with the temple serving as a base for many patriarchs of meditational Buddhism. One of them was Master Gusan, who reconstructed the buildings in the 1970s after the damage they had sustained during the Korean War. He also established Korea’s first-ever International Seon Center, where the first non-Koreans to become Jogye Order monks (bigu) & nuns (biguni) received training. This led to missionary work resulting in many Korean Buddhist temples abroad, which attracted even more non-Korean converts. Countless ordinary Korean monks have also achieved enlightenment at Songgwangsa—today, being one of the temple’s monks is considered a high honor, as it means that the monk has followed in the footsteps of distinguished forebears.

There is also a tourist village at the trailhead leading to the Temple. Even if visitors are not avid students of Korean Buddhism, the ride to the tourist village followed by an uphill walk through the forest to the temple is truly impressive.

Continue driving to Gurye - a small, picturesque farming town of 30,000 situated between Jirisan & the Seomjin River.

Gurye County is the sole designated special tourism & leisure zone in all of Jeollanam-do. It is a popular hiking destination during the spring & autumn seasons. The county's beautiful landscapes are showcased during its yearly festivals such as the Royal Azalea Festival & the Piagol Valley Maple Festival.

The more famous Sansuyu Flower Festival is held every mid-March & takes place at the hot springs at the foot of Mount Jiri. The Festival features a wide variety of programs including an exhibition of local products made from sansuyu (cornus fruit) performances, hands-on events & fireworks. Sansuyu blossoms produce a uniquely favored tea & fine liquor. 

Gurye is also home to Korea's first National State Park, which houses some of Korea’s most important temples such as Hwaeom-sa, one of Korea's top temples.

On reaching Gurye, proceed straight to see Hwaeom-sa dedicated to the Virocana Buddha, the cosmic head of the Hwaeom trinity.

Hwaeom-sa Temple is a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, located on the slopes of Jirisan, in Masan-myeon. Established in 544 by Ven. Yeongi Josa, it was expanded in 643 by Ven. Jajang Yulsa, when the Sakyamuni Relic Pagoda, 7 Story Pagoda & a stone lantern were added.

In 1593, most of the Temple's buildings were burned to the ground in the Japanese invasion. However, the Temple still preserves pieces of Ven. Uisang Daesa's stone tablets inscribed with sutras, “Hwaeom Seokgyeong” which were left over from the ones destroyed in the fire set by the invaders.

Later, Ven. Byeogam Gakseong reconstructed some of the buildings, including the Main Buddha Hall (1630 - 1636). In 1701, the 27^th year of King Sukjong's reign, the reconstruction of Hwaeomsa Temple was completed & the king designated it the great temple of the combined schools of doctrine & meditation.

See the Gakhwangjeon Hall (which literally means “a building where enlightened kings reside”). Though it was built during the reign of Joseon King Sukjong, under a state policy that promoted Confucianism & suppressed Buddhism.  Gakhwangjeon's size is only exceeded by Geunjeongjeon, the palace building where the king took care of official business.

At the entrance, One-Pillar Gate standing at the lower part greets you & leads you up to the 2^nd & 3^rd Gate - from the secular world into the spiritual world.

On the 2^nd level, there is the Bojeru,Hall (the Save All Beings Hall), beside which stands a bell & drum tower and two magnificent 5 story stone pagodas from Silla period.  Gakhwangjeon Hall has a double storied roof & houses 7 figures on its altar. Sakyamuni Buddha sits in the middle attended by Amitabha & Prabhytaratna, as well as Avalokitesvara, Samantabhadra, Manjusri, & Ksitigarbha.

In front of Gakhwangjeon stands a giant Stone Lantern, befitting the size of Gakhwangjeon. Thought to have been sculpted during the United Silla era, it is 6.4 meters high & 2.8 meters in diameter.

On the hill behind Gakhwangjeon stands the most impressive & uniquely designed 3 story Pagoda carved in granite, supported by 4 fierce looking lions, each of which represents the 4 primary human emotions: love, sorrow, anger & joy. Here, you will enjoy the intricacies of this masterpiece as there are numerous other designs etched onto the Pagoda.

Two trees here have been designated natural monuments: the Winter-Flowering & the Plum Tree. Seon Master Buyong Yeonggwan composed a poem about this plum tree.

Reach the hotel by evening & Check-in.

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax or walk around on your own.

Morning, depart for Busan.

Enroute, you will be making a couple of stops.

The drive into Hadong County in the Jirisan National Park area is a curvy one. While the scenery & majesty of those mountains pass your window, you are forced into starting strategically around the next blind switchback, shifting your weight for the opposite curve to come.

When you do finally arrive, the dizzying drive is met with dizzying vistas in almost every direction. While not actually in this range, the mountains in Hadong are veins off of the Park. Just outside of the small town, there is a valley of rice fields renowned for beauty & symmetry. While many rice fields in Korea are oddly shaped to fit into whatever space is available, this valley has mostly square fields at the foot of towering mountains, with parks & decorative trees planted in the middle of it.

In the fall just before they harvest the rice, there is a unique Harvest Festival when the fields are burned in ‘some’ areas so when they are viewed from above, you can see specific patterns & words they spell out. There is also a yearly Plum Festival in spring (Hadong Maehwa Festival).

Stop at Ssanggyesa - another head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, located on the southern slopes of Mt. Jirisan. 

The temple was founded in 722 in the 23^rd year of King Seongdeok’s reign during the Silla Era by two disciples of Euisang named Sambeop & Daebi. It is said that they were guided to the location by a Jiri-sanshin in the form of a tiger, after being instructed by him in dreams to look for a site where arrowroot flowers blossomed through the snow. They had travelled to China for study & returned with the skull & a portrait of "Yukcho" (Hui-neng, the 6^th Patriarch of Seon Zen Buddhism) which they respectively buried under the Main Hall. The skull was later dug up & enshrined in a stone pagoda, which is still there.

Ssanggyesa (literally meaning Twin-Streams Monastery) & Hwaeomsa Temples are among the most popular temples in the Jirisan area. It was initially called Okcheonsa Temple.

During the 3^rd year of King Heugdeok’s reign during the Silla Era, Buddhist Monk Kim Daeryeom travelled to China & brought back seeds for tea trees. By royal order, he planted the seeds around the Temple & the area became the first place in Korea to cultivate tea. At this time, the name was changed to Ssanggyesa Temple by Meditaition-Master Jin-gam-seonsa.

Most of the rest of the temple dates to the 17^th century or thereafter, because all its buildings were burned to the ground by Japanese invaders during the Seven Year War & were later restored.

Master Jin-gam-seonsa is also credited with creation of Beompae (Korean-style Buddhist music & dance) after having studied Chinese Buddhist music during Tang Dynasty China.

He composed "Eosan" (Fish Mountain) with paleumryul (8 tones & rhythms) while watching fish swim in the nearby Seomjin-gang River, and therefore the spacious lecture-pavilion still dedicated to Beompae performance & education at the front of Ssanggye-sa is named Palyeong-ru.  

The 6km path from Hwagye market place to Ssanggyesa Temple is filled with blooming 600 year old cherry blossom trees. There is a myth that lovers who walk together along the cherry blossom tree path called Hollaegil (wedding path) leading to the Temple, have a particularly long healthy relationship.

Across the bridge in front of the entrance, there are 2 rocks (designated National Treasure) engraved with the words “ssanggye” & “seokmun” each. It is said that the eminent scholar Choi Chiwon of the Silla Era had engraved the words with a cane.

One of the foremost Korean epigraphs “Jingamseonsa-daegongtabbi” also written by Choi Chiwon, is situated in front of the main building Daeunggeun. To the east you can find the Ssanggyesa Ma-aebul, a unique image of Buddha engraved in a hollowed out section of rock.

After enjoying the serenity of the Temple, Make a stop at the colorful Hwagae Market, one of the 5 biggest traditional markets in the area, which were once flooded with people. The market is one of the most visited attractions along with Ssanggyesa Temple & Jirisan Mountain.

The market offers a variety of local products like seafood, spices, plants, traditional cooking supplies & knick-knacks. A traditional blacksmith still produces hoes, sickles & other implements in the traditional ways.  You can also feast on local specialties here if you want to.

The cheerful rhythm of the drum attracts the ears & eyes of many, creating an exciting atmosphere. It also appears as the background setting in Kim Dong-ri's novel, Yeokma (which means stagecoach in English).

Proceed to explore the dinosaur footprints at Sangjogam Park in Goseong. The site extending over the coast around Sangjogam region is recognized as one of major Dinosaur sites in the world, along with those in Brazil, North America & Argentina.

The breathtaking view of the South Coast can be seen at a glance from Sangjogam County Park. The glittery surface & towering cliffs create a spectacular backdrop.

The beach in front of the Youth Center contains shingles worn down by the tide & a precipitous wall of stratified rocks can be seen beyond the wide bedrock of dinosaur footprints. The oddly shaped rocks are named after the table leg-shaped stone caves such as “Ssangjok” or “Ssangbal” & have their own folktales.

Clear fossils of mysterious footprints belong to Dinosaur species such as Brontosaurus, Brachiosaurus, Allosaurus &  Naranosaurus that lived during the Cretaceous Period & that have been familiarized by the popular movie, ‘Jurassic Park’ & are considered valuable resources in studying the uncovered mysteries of life before the appearance of mankind.

A raised boardwalk enables you to casually stroll along at low or high tide & view the huge diversity of tracks. The black layers of sediment rock lie slightly tilted toward the sea & on these tilted sheets are the footprints of the ancient giants, which are virtually the only physical traces of their passing. The best viewing time is at low-tide, as few tracks can be seen when the gentle lap of water washes around the feet of the boardwalk that circles around two rocky promontories & curls along a wide beachy area.

There is also the Goseong Dinosaur Museum built in 2004 next to one of the world’s largest dinosaur footprint fossil sites and showcases both major dinosaur footprints as well as breathtaking scenery.

Drive past Tongyeong - a traditional seaport of great charm & historical interests on the southern tip of Goseong Peninsula known for its pivotal role in the country’s maritime past.

Most of the picturesque sights & the spectacular 151 islands dotting the coastline, are in & around Gangguan a pretty harbour made for sunset strolls. The harbor area is great for exploring the local culture, from mural villages to delicious foods. It is also a great starting point for heading off on an adventure with ferries traveling to the various islands. If you still want to enjoy the sea views but avoid any boat rides, you can visit coastal parks or go for a drive on the main island!

The 17^th century Tongyeong Sebyeonggwan Hall, a former naval command post, is a grand wooden building with red pillars near the Gangguan harbour.

There is also the Yi Sun-sin Park near Tongyeong Harbor, dedicated to Admiral Yi, who fought off the Japanese forces during the Imjin War (1592 - 1598). Even now, visitors can feel his protection by looking at the 17.3 meter tall bronze statue of Admiral Yi gazing out to sea. You can also see a full-size replica of a 16^th century wooden warship here. The Park offers great views of the port, fishery market & Dongpirang Village.

The city is also famous for lacquer ware, pearl, mother of pearl artwork & mask dance. Local market offers the sights, sounds & smells of a fishing port.

Visitors can also walk along the Park’s boardwalk with many sculptures along the way that creates great photo zones & the ocean breeze will blow their cares away

Tongyeong is also famous for its culture of “dajji,” where the restaurant prepares enough food to match the amount of alcohol ordered, a complete reversal of the standard format. Being surrounded by the sea, naturally, most of the dishes at Tongyeong restaurants include some type of fresh seafood. To provide the freshest taste, the menu changes based on the seafood available in market that day.

Whatever your preference, Tongyeong has something for everyone!

Drive on to Geoje just off the coast of the port city of Busan.

The city is made up of a number of islands, of which by far the largest is Geoje Island & offers a wide range of tourist sights.

Dubbing itself the "Blue City", Geoje is more of an island than a city. It is in fact Korea's 2^nd largest island (only Jeju is larger) with a loose collection of villages & settlements scattered in coves around the coastline. Two of the largest are Okpo on the east coast & Gohyeon on the west and most of the tourist sites lie between these two settlements.

The key attraction of the island is its natural coastal beauty. Outside of the two cities it is a near-endless series of calm blue beached coves and sheer pine-forested grey cliffs overlooking the sea.

Geoje has played a significant role in Korea's naval history. The coast of Okpo is the setting for one of Korea's greatest military victories over Japan during early stages of the Imjin War (1592 - 1598). United under Admiral Yi Sun-sin, Korean armor-plated turtle ships repelled Japanese attackers from taking the Jeolla region. Although this ultimately did not stop the war in its tracks, it did slow the invasion a little & provided a morale boost to the nation.

Today, Geoje is a shipbuilding powerhouse hosting both Samsung & DSME shipyards. Despite the large number of foreign residents employed to supervise these facilities and subsequent notably high foreign presence in Okpo & Gohyeon.

Geoje once was the final port of call of the SS Meredith Victory during Christmas in1950. It is best known for evacuating more than 14,000 refugees in a single mission & the largest humanitarian rescue operation by a single ship during the Korean War.

Though Geoje Island offers spectacular views of the ocean, rocks jutting up in the sky & beaches, there is also another darker side to the island. That is the POW Camp from the Korean War era

You will visit Geoje-do POW Camp which was opened up to the public in 1997, to educate and serve as a reminder of the Korean War.

The Park of Geojedo P.O.W Camp was built by United Nations Command to hold North Korean & Chinese prisoners captured by UN forces during the Korean War. The POW camp was built between two mountains on the island to discourage soldiers from venturing to escape. Out of a total of 170,000 prisoners of war, 20,000 were from China & 150,000 were from North Korea.

The camp was shut down in 1953 upon the signing of the armistice which ended the active wartime yet the tanks, trucks & other relics from the war remained when the soldiers left. From August 5 to September 6, 1953, under the name Operation Big Switch & Operation Big Swap, both side prisoners were repatriated, at their free choice of destination, at Panmunjeom. The U.N.C. returned 75,823 POWs (70,183 Koreans, 5,640 Chinese); the Communists repatriated 12,773 U.N.C. POWs (7,862 Koreans, 3,597 Americans, 946 British). The vast majority of the 22,600 enemy non-repatriates were Chinese, most of them former Chinese Nationalist veterans.

The Camp has been developed into an outdoor Museum with dioramas depicting life in the camp, the barracks & shows the harrowing tale of the kidnapping of Brigadier General Dodd, to ensure that the Korean War is not forgotten.

This is a rather different look upon the Korean War as the prisoners & how they lived is often not discussed. While the Museum makes it clear that all soldiers were treated above board according to the Geneva Convention, they also go into great depth concerning the differences between the ideologies of the soldiers incarcerated here.

After spending an hour at the POW Camp, depart for Busan.

Drive on Geoga bridge, that connects Geoje Island to Busan. You will travel on the deepest highway on earth, Geoga bridge. The 8.2 km long bridge-tunnel is a combination of two cable-stayed bridges built on the open sea, a number of approach bridges & 3.7 km of tunnels in an immersed tube 48m below mean water level. Considered an innovative technical achievement.

Reach Busan by afternoon.

Home to majestic mountains, glistening beaches, steaming hot springs & fantastic seafood, South Korea’s 2^nd largest city is a rollicking port town with tonnes to offer. From casual tent bars & chic designer cafes to fish markets teeming with every species imaginable. Surrounded by the ocean on one side & mountains on the other, its deep harbor & gentle tides have allowed it to grow into the largest port in Korea & the 5^th largest in the world.

Busan features beaches, mountains & temples. Busy Haeundae Beach features the Sea Life Aquarium, plus a Folk Square with traditional games such as tug-of-war, while Gwangalli Beach has many bars & views of modern Diamond Bridge. Beomeosa Temple, a Buddhist shrine founded in 678 A.D., is at the base of Geumjeong Mountain, which has hiking trails.

Rugged mountain ranges slice through the urban landscape & events such as the Busan International Film Festival underscore the city’s desire to be a center for international conventions, hosting APEC in 2005. It is also a venue for major sports tournaments in Korea, having hosted the 2002 Asian Games & FIFA World Cup. It is also a center of industry & commerce, a thriving metropolis formed unusually long in shape along its coastal line. It is home to the world's largest department store, the Shinsegae Centum City.

Before reaching hotel, stop at Yongdusan Park, located at the head of a steep slope that looks over the city & harbor in a breathtaking view. Yongdu means “dragon’s head” & “san” means “mountain”. The name is an allusion to the similarity of the mountain park, which is said to resemble a dragon’s head.

Yongdusan Mountain (49m) in downtown Busan is one of Busan's 3 famous mountains. It was originally called Songhyeonsan Mountain, which means a mountain with a view of the sea through the dense pine tree forest.  Later, the name was changed to Yongdusan Mountain, as the mountain peak was shaped similar to a dragon's head (yongdu), protecting the area against foreign invaders overseas.

The mountain held shrines for the mountain gods built by the Japanese before the 8.15 Liberation. Now the mountain is home to a variety of monuments, including Cheokhwabi Monument, Chunghontap Pagoda, 4.19 Revolution Monument & Busan Tower.

During the Korea War, refugees built houses on the sides of the mountain all the way to the summit but these neighborhoods were burned down twice, leaving the mountain bare. Since then, fierce efforts of planting trees have led to transforming the burnt mountain to a beautiful park. The park was called Unam Park at the time of the Liberal Party’s ruling but was renamed to Yongdusan Park after the April 19 Revolution in 1960. Today, the Park is home to 70 tree species, making Yongdusan Park as one of the best places to enjoy autumn colors in Busan & it offers a beautiful view of Busan Port & the surrounding scenery.

Yongdusan Park offers not just sights and attractions to see, but an opportunity to appreciate big open spaces for visitors not just to enjoy urban outdoors in Busan. With 70 species of trees and flowers, it is a great area to relax and enjoy downtime exploring the city.

And smack dab in the middle of the park stands the statue of Admiral Yi Sun-shin, Korea's greatest naval hero who is credited with the production of the first iron-clad warship in history. In the Park's octagonal pavilion, you cannot help but appreciate the huge collection of miniature ships of basically every kind. The ships in exquisite craftsmanship include the sailboat, merchant ship, fishing boat, warship, Santa Maria, the Titanic, supertankers & several others.

Yongdusan Park is more than just an open space. There are sights to see & lot of activities to do & Busan Tower is located here.

Towering at 120 meters high, standing 69 meters above sea level in one of the city’s major mountain, magnificent Busan Tower is definitely the city’s major landmark. The top of the tower is modeled after the baldaquin of Dabotap Pagoda in Bulguksa Temple, Gyeongju & features an Observatory which offers spectacular harbor views.

Loved by Busan citizens & tourists alike, the Tower offers a stunning night view & plenty to see, such as the Statue of the Great Admiral Yi Sun-sin, the Bell of the Citizens, a flower clock & a bust of the Busan-based independent activist, Baeksan An Hee-je.

Spend an hour here & depart for the nearby hotel & Check-in.

Balance of the evening is at leisure to relax.

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 07.00 am & proceed for a sightseeing tour in Korea’s 2^nd largest city.

First stop will be the fascinating Jagalchi Fish market, the largest seafood market in South Korea, selling both live & dried seafood.

Located on the downtown docks, compared to other fish markets in Korea, this bustling market offers a nice ambience with outdoor street performances on some days, great sea views & of course, a wide variety of fish including sea bream, sea bass, snapper, saury, pollack, halibut, corvina, cutlass fish, mackerel, octopus, sea squirt, cuttlefish, frogfish, flounder, abalone, crab, shells, to name just a few & a flexible pricing system, which makes it a big draw among locals & visitors alike.

You can purchase the live seafood on the ground floor & bring it to one of the many restaurants on 2^nd floor for preparation & cooking at additional charge; or simply turn up at the restaurant and pick the dishes you preferred. Alternatively, there is a seafood buffet restaurant on the 5^th floor that you can try out huge varieties of seafood dishes.

There are also many restaurants selling sliced raw fish at reasonable prices. Trying them here in the market is really a visual and culinary treat.

Spend an hour walking around before moving to neighboring BIFF Square, packed with trendy shops movie theaters & even a walk of fame where famous stars & directors have pressed their handprints into the sidewalk.

This is the main venue of the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) & the well-known modern movie district was named 'BIFF Square' in August 1996. The stage installed at the end of the extending alley between Daeyeong Cinema & MEGABOX Busan Theater is where diverse events are held during the Busan International Film Festival. Hand prints of well-known actors & actresses also add an interesting charm to BIFF Square.

To the street food lovers, BIFF Square is a well-known food paradise. One of the most popular specialities at BIFF Square, often seen in Korean TV shows (including Running Man) & Asian travel / food TV shows is Ssiat Hotteok (Korean sweet pancake stuffed with seeds). Long lines of customers queued at the popular stalls visited by celebrities. This yummy Ssiat Hotteok is a must-try in Busan!

Right next door is Gukjesijang where thousands of shops spill out into the busiest districts of Busan. Each alleyway is crowded with stalls & it connects to several other markets such as Bupyeong Market, Kkangtong Market, Jagalchi Market. Since vendors deal in wholesale & retail sales as well, the average customer can purchase various items at incredibly inexpensive prices.

Gukjesijang or Gukje Market (Gukje means International in Korean) used to be a place for refugees to strive to earn a living over the period of Korean War. It soon evolved into one of Korea’s largest traditional markets where both locals & international visitors come to pick up some bargains.

Imbued with the old-fashioned marketplace spirit, it is full of goods from electronic items, home appliances, clothing, fish, fruit & vegetables. It stocks such a tremendous variety of both new and used items; especially, it is an ideal destination to purchase Hanbok - Korean traditional dress.

Discover all that local merchants have to offer, while enjoying the ambience of this massive landmark.

Move on to Tongdosa - a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism & one of the Three Jewels Temples that represent Gautama Buddha.

Famous for its lack of statues, it is often called ‘the temple without a Buddha’. Instead, the courtyards in the Temple are structured around several pagodas & a elaborately-built Buddhist Diamond Precepts Altar. This altar leads up to a platform with a bell-shaped stupa that contains the cremated remains of the Buddha himself, thus earning a name the Temple of the Buddha.

The legend holds that an eternal flame was supposed to have been kept for over 1,300 years. The Temple flourished throughout the subsequent centuries until the Japanese invasion of 1592 - 1598. Like most Korean temples at this time, Tongdosa was also ransacked. Its main hall, however, miraculously survived & can still be seen. The rest of the Temple was rebuilt in the early 17^th century & is now the country’s largest monastic complex, with around 500 monks, nuns & 18 hermitages on its extensive property.

As you continue through the gate of the Four Heavenly Kings into the Temple proper, you will notice the old halls that contain stupas, housing relics of Sakyamuni - or so goes the legend. Pilgrims & worshipers can also be found in all of Tongdosa’s halls, particularly on weekends. The non-Buddhist visitor will find their presence adds to the sanctity of the atmosphere, making it less touristy.

What attracts people to Tongdosa is the scenery & the layout of the charmingly rundown buildings. Unique among all Buddhist temples in Korea, a sandy trail about a kilometer long leads up to the Temple front from the entrance gate; woods on the right & a beautiful stream on the left surround it. As you get closer to the temple, more & more steles and other stone monuments of distinguished deceased monks appear among the trees.

Finally, the modern 2 story Tongdosa Museum which houses both ancient & modern Buddhist paintings, appears on the right, while across the stream one can see several historic stone bridges. Overall, if you only have time to visit one jewel temple in Korea, Tongdosa is a must-visit. Once you walk down the wooded trail beside the rushing stream & into the spiritual realm of the buildings, you will never forget it.

Drive on to Gampo-eup one of the port villages between present day Pohang & Ulsan on Korea’s eastern coastline, developed by migrant Japanese settlers during the colonial period.

Constrained by mountainous terrain, Gampo was constructed along the coastline & contains part of Gyeongju National Park. According to a theory, its name was taken from the “Gam” in the name of the nearby temple, Gameunsa.

Gampo’s colonial remains can mostly be found centered around the present day Gampo Jeil Church which occupies an elevated hillside space that was the site of the local Shinto shrine, which was converted after liberation for church use & the Presbyterians built a new church here in 1955. While no sign of the Shrine remains, a number of small Japanese buildings sit in the alleys near the foot of the old staircase that led up the hill to the Shrine.

There are over 240 seafood restaurants in Gampo Harbor offering various dishes made with seafood caught in the sea, such as hoe (raw fish dishes), jeonboktang (an abalone soup) & grilled seafood etc.

On a small Islet about 200 meter off the shore, there is an unusual underwater Tomb of King Munmu (626-681) the 30^th ruler of Silla.

King Munmu was the oldest son of King Taejong Muyeol (r. 654-661). As a young man, he visited the Tang dynasty of China with his father as an envoy & was given the title Crown Prince after serving as minister of defense. He contributed significantly toward the conquest led by King Muyeol over Baekje but worked hard to end the conflict after succeeding to the throne. As king, he forged an alliance with the Tang dynasty & defeated Goguryeo and unified the Three Kingdoms

The 20m long rocky islet has a small pond at the center & there is a large 3.6m long, 2.9m wide & 0.9m high granite rock that marks the king's burial / cremation site, at the center of the islet, where a pool of water forms. At low tide, the top of this oval rock is almost visible above the sea surface

You can't actually set foot on the islet, since it's so small and rocky, but you can see it from the beach

Before his death, the king wished his body to be cremated & remains buried in the East Sea so that he could become a dragon & protect his kingdom even after his death, as a spirit of the sea.

Historians still debate whether King Munmu's cremated remains are buried beneath it or if his ashes were scattered into the sea.

Pass by the adjacent Gameunsa Temple with its 2 immense 3 storey Pagodas on a 2 tier foundation,        dedicated to the Dragon Spirit of King Munmu.  

King Munmu started to build this Temple to block the invasion of Japanese troops but was unable to complete it before his death.  His son King Sinmun ascended the throne & completed its construction 2 years later. He ordered that a hole be made to the east under the stone threshold of the Golden Hall in order for a dragon to come in and out.”

Drive on to the next village of Homigot located at the eastern-most end of the Korean peninsula on a point of land jutting out into the East Sea.

Homigot is a gentle hill mountainous terrain that protrudes on 3 sides into the sea except for the southern part, which is densely populated with five to six peaks at altitudes between 120 & 180 meters above sea level.

Being one of the easternmost points on the Korean peninsula, it is a gathering place for thousands to greet Korea's first sunrise of the New Year. The Sunrise Festival features activities like decorating Korean paper (Hanji) & making a kite for lucky. The most famous is the New Year's Tteokguk (Rice cake soup) eating event. On New Year Eve rice cake soup for 10,000 people is boiled & shared in a large Gamasot (this Gamasot is displayed at Homigot).

When visitors arrive at Homigot, they will see a two-part bronze sculpture in the shape of a pair of hands called ‘Hand of Harmony’ or 'Hand of Coexistence' designed & built to commemorate the new millennium, by Professor Seung-guk Kim at Yeongnam University with the support of Pohang Construction & Daegu Bank. The right hand, 8.5 meters high in the sea, & 5.5 meters high at high tide. When standing in the right angle, when the sun rises visitors are able to capture the sun’s rays slipping through the fingers & then sitting on the palm of the hand.

Aside from the most breathtaking view of the sunrise in Korea, Homigot also offers incredible views of the Eastern Sea, visible from the moment you step out of the designated parking lot for visitors.

See the Homigot Lighthouse, still active & tallest in South Korea. The 26.4 metres brick Lighthouse was built in 1900s, in an occipital shape to ensure the stability of the wider lower part.

Depart for the coastal city of Gyeongju an ancient capital of Silla kingdom (BC57-AD935), which ruled about two-thirds of the Korean Peninsula at its height between the 7^th & 9^th centuries, for close to one thousand years. Silla was a prosperous & wealthy country & its metropolitan capital of Gyeongju was the 4^th largest city in the world.

Gyeongju is often referred to as the “Museum without Walls". Gyeongju has more tombs, temples, rock carvings, pagodas, Buddhist statuary & palace ruins than any other place in South Korea. Among such historical treasures are Seokguram grotto, Bulguksa Temple, Gyeongju Historic Areas & Yangdong Folk Village are designated as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

It's a lovely city, stuffed to the gills with history. Most visitors touring the city centre are taken aback by the distinctive, low-lying urban centre sculpted by astonishing and substantial round grassy tombs - called tumuli - as well as traditional architecture, with colourful hip roofs set against a canvas of green rolling mountains. Two of Gyeongju’s not-to-be-missed sites - Bulguk-sa & Seokguram - are in the outlying districts.

Reach the hotel by evening & Check-in.

Balance of the evening at leisure to relax or for independent or optional activities (we will be happy to offer suggestions & make arrangements)

Today, you are treated to one of the 10 most historically significant sites in the world with ancient temples, weathered stone pagodas, royal tombs, Buddhist bas-reliefs & fortress ruins.

Meet the Tour-guide at 09.00 am & proceed for a full day 8 hour sightseeing of the area.

First stop will at the UNESCO World Heritage listed Seokguram grotto & Bulguksa Temple which were both built during the glorious period (BC57-AD935) of the Silla kingdom, on the slopes of Mt. Tohamsan, 4 km apart.

Gyeongju Seokguram Grotto portrays the enlightenment of Buddha & Bulguksa Temple represents the Buddhist utopia taking its form in the terrestrial world. The 2 sites are closely linked physically, historically & culturally and form a religious architectural complex of exceptional significance.

According to history,  Samgukyusa of the Goryeo Dynasty (the country that unified the Korean peninsula at the end of the Silla Kingdom, 918-1392), Kim Dae-Seong had Bulguksa Temple built for his parents in his current life & Seokguram Grotto for the parents of his former life. The grotto represents the magnificent harmony of religion, science & the arts of Buddhism, symbolizing the pure land in which Buddha resides.

Seokguram is an artificial grotto constructed of granite that comprises an antechamber, a corridor & a main rotunda.  The circular main hall enshrines a monumental statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha looking out to sea with his left hand in dhyana mudra, the mudra of concentration & his right hand in bhumisparsa mudra, the earth-touching mudra position. The Bonjon figure wearing a generous smile is seated on the stage engraved with a lotus flower design. With the surrounding portrayals of 37 devas, Bodhisattvas & disciples, all realistically & delicately sculpted in high & low relief on the surrounding walls, it is considered a masterpiece of East Asian Buddhist art. The view of the sunrise is quite beautiful & many people hike the mountain at daybreak.

The domed ceiling of the rotunda & the entrance corridor employed an innovative construction technique that involved the use of more than 360 stone slabs. The rounded ceiling looks like a half-moon or a bow and has a lotus flower decorated cover on it. The main statue & most of the stone sculptures has preserved their original form.

A short ride from the grotto is the Bulguksa Temple complex comprising a series of wooden buildings on raised stone terraces. Following the one-pillared gate & the 4 guardian's gate, you will reach 2 double level arched stone staircases - the symbolic bridges, leaving the world of sufferings behind & to enter Buddha's land. 

Up from the bridges on the terraced main courtyard stands the Hall of Great Enlightenment. The hall houses Sakyamuni Buddha who is flanked on the right by Kasyapa & Maitreya Bodhisattva and on the left by Dipankara & Ananda. Before this hall stands a stone carved lantern & 2 stone pagodas.

3 storied Seokgatap (Pagoda of Sakyamuni) with its calm simplicity of lines & minimal decoration and Dabotap (Pagoda of Bountiful Treasures) with highly ornate masonry work of the Silla kingdom & the noted complexity of the universe stands blending well into the architectural harmony. The architectural design of Bulguksa is one of constrained dignity, peace & harmony and the temple still remains one of the most remarkable achievements of the ancient Far East.

Continue to Gwaereung - Tomb of the King Wonseong, 38^th king of the Silla Kingdom (785-798) 

Gwaereung is styled after Tombs of the Tang dynasty, but still retains all the characteristics typical of Silla tombs; namely, the stones around the tomb. The tomb is 21.9m in diameter & 7.7m high on a circular mound made of piled-up soil, encircled by a stone fence decorated with 12 oriental zodiac images on the protective walls & decorative stonework.

What makes this tomb really significant and unique are the statues carved from granite along the promenades leading up to it - a two sets of lions, a couple of scholars & a pair of military guards who in particular is a favorite among visitors because it appears to be a person of Arabic or Persian descent, much like the merchants who came to Silla in ancient times.

The area is also home to a number of stone monuments that stand facing each other: Hwapyoseok (marking the border of the tomb), Muninseok (civil servant statue), Muinseok (statute of a military officer) & Dolsaja (a stone lion that protects the tomb). Muinseok in particular is a favorite among visitors because of its exotic appearance. The statue is sometimes compared to a strong and charismatic person of Arabic or Persian descendant, much like the merchants who came to Silla in ancient times.

Next stop is Gyeongju National Museum immediately adjacent to the royal tomb complex, in an area which also includes the Gyerim forest, Cheomseongdae observatory, Banwolseong palace & Anapji Pond.

There are a number of national museums in key locations across Korea, but the national cultural heritage collection of this Museum devoted to relics of the Silla kingdom, of which Gyeongju was the capital, is especially important because it allows the public, archaeologists & historians to understand the rise of civilization in southeast Korea.

It houses numerous historical & cultural artifacts of the Silla dynasty (57 BC - AD 935). The volume of archaeological & historical artifacts in the collection of the Museum is so large that most of the objects cannot be displayed & are thus stored out of the view of the general public. 

They include the 8^th gigantic Emille Bell, of such artistic beauty of design, which is said to ring with the sound of a child who was sacrificed for its casting.

You will marvel at the priceless archaeological & historical artifacts excavated from the Anapji Pond & Hwangnyongsa Temple site including splendid golden Silla crowns gold crowns, earrings, belts, ornaments, glassware, potteries, and clay figures as well as a royal barge. Many holdings are displayed outdoors, a common practice in Korean museums.

Gyeongju National Museum is contributing to the community & re-establishing its identity as a museum by making efforts to provide lifelong learning opportunities & improve management. As a significant cultural center, the Museum not only strives to preserve, exhibit & research the rich history & culture of Silla, but it also strives to take a leap forward to become a cultural multi-complex center by promoting international exchange opportunities, social education programs & a variety of special exhibitions.

Then head to the world's oldest existing astronomical observatory, Cheomseongdae constructed during the reign of Queen Seon-deok (r. 632-647), to observe stars in order to forecast the weather.

Cheomseongdae is the oldest surviving astronomical observatory in Asia & possibly even the world. The stone structure is a beautiful combination of straight lines & curves and was designated as National Treasure. Cheomseongdae was built in a cylinder shape with stones. The pavilion stone is believed to have been used as a standard of deciding directions, north, south, east & west. Each of the 362 stone used in the observatory piled up to make 27 levels, bears symbolic meaning; the same number of the days of the year by lunar calendar, the number of the major stars, the months of the year & the numbers of the seasonal divisions.

Walk to the nearby Tumuli Park (Daereungwon Tomb Complex) that encompasses 23 huge tomb mounds where Silla rulers were buried.

From the Latin word tumulus ‘mound’ or ‘small hill’, tumuli are found all over the world, from Sweden, to India to…South Korea. Mounds of soil & rocks piled high over the ensconced coffin or corpse within, over the centuries these burial sites attain a smooth & vivid mantle of green grass that look just a little bit alien to Western eyes, more accustomed to their deceased being buried six feet under.

Lasting almost 1000 years from just before the time of Christ, the Silla dynasty in Korea was one of the longest in recorded history & the people of that time revered their dead through the erection of tumuli.

The largest of these were, of course, for royalty. If the queen was also buried with her husband, the mound would be a little smaller, adjoining the larger mound for the king, resulting in a tumuli with the profile of a gourd cut lengthways, lying on its side.

While the largest were for royalty, this didn’t preclude the commoners from also following the same traditions in the burial of their dead. You may stumble upon these small mounds of soil, perhaps a metre high & a couple of metres diameter. In some cases the deceased had been long forgotten, but in others there was still evidence of ongoing care & maintenance by family.

The tomb complex is one of many in Gyeongju. The Daereungwon Tomb Complex in the ancient capital city Gyeongju provides an opportunity to walk around & even inside one of these incredible structures.

One of the tombs, Cheonmachong, is opened to the public & provides an opportunity to walk around & even inside one of these incredible structures to see how the tombs were made & also replicas of the treasures excavated in 1973.

Next stop is Poseokjeong Pavilion.

Poseokjeong Pavilion served as a separate summer palace where the later Silla kings enjoyed banquets with nobles. The building no longer exists & all that can be seen now is the abalone-shaped stone channel through which at one time a cool stream of water was directed into the palace. The abalone-shaped stone water canal, which has an estimated length of 10m & a width of approximately 35 cm with an average depth of 26 cm, still remains, which is speculated to have been built during the Unified Silla period with the exact year unknown. There is an Elm tree with a large trunk & gnarled with age that may have witnessed the final day of Silla.

Last stop of the day is Bunhwangsa Temple.

Bunhwangsa from the Old Silla era of Korea, is recorded to have been built in 634 under the auspices of Queen Seondeok, the 27^th ruler of the Silla Kingdom. Prominent Buddhist priests Wonhyo & Jajang resided at the temple.

The Temple has a long history & it once held many historical relics, which have been lost due to the Mongolian invasion & the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. The remaining relics are 9.3m Mojeon Stone Tower built using bricks carved from andesite rocks. While the tower is presumed to be originally a 7-9 story structure, only 3 stories remain today.

The nearby open field was once occupied by Silla's largest temple Hwangyongsa & Hwajaengguksabibu (a memorial stone placed in memory of Wonhyo, a renown Buddhist priest from the Silla Kingdom) & Samnyongbyeoneojeong (a well in which 3 dragons that protected Silla were believed to reside).

There are two 3.6m high Danggan flagpoles made of either wood, metal or stone that were used to hang flags which signified Buddhist festivals so that even people far away would be aware of them. The pillar flagpoles located at the entrance of Punhwangsa Temple, are supported by stone turtles, a unique feature as most pillars do not possess such characteristics.

There are also statues of Buddha now displayed in the yard of Gyeongju National Museum, which were found in a well situated 30m north of the rear wall of Bunhwangsa Temple.

Return to the hotel.

Balance of the evening is at leisure or for independent activities (we would be happy to offer suggestions).

Morning, depart for Songnisan, with a couple of stops enroute.

First stop will be at Goryeong County.

Visit Tumuli Museum located below the group of ancient tombs. Here, you will see a perfect replica of the Jisan-dong Tomb No. 44 itself, a large-scale living burial to be first discovered in Korea.

The Republic of Korea is the home to roughly 780 tumuli from the ancient federation known as Gaya that existed in the southern part of the Korean Peninsula. The individual tombs identified within these sites number in the hundreds of thousands

The 1^st & 2^nd centuries, when tombs started to be built in clusters, were characterized by the construction of wooden coffin tombs. Tombs from this period shed light on the process of the formation of individual polities by the fact that they were built closely together as a group, as well as through the types of grave artifacts they contained. Graves for rulers & for the ruled were not constructed separately, but grouped together within a single area. For tombs for the ruling classes, a separate hole was additionally made under the coffin to bury grave goods.

Into the later part of the 5^th century, a graveyard for people of royal status in Goryeong Jisan-dong Tumuli was distinctively separated & the scale of human sacrifice expanded. The construction of this type of ultra-large tomb in the Jisan-dong Tumuli testifies to the emergence of Dae Gaya as a central power in the Gaya confederacy at the time & indicates the efforts toward forming a centralized state. However, military pressure from stronger neighbors & internal disintegration within Gaya society impeded such ambitions. In the mid-sixth century, the Gaya confederacy fell, putting an end to tomb construction

Drive on through a scenic countryside to Gayasan National Park to see the magnificent 9^th century Haeinsa Temple.

Haeinsa is one of the head temples of the Jogye Order of Korean Seon Buddhism & notable for housing the world's oldest & complete collection of the Buddhist sutras.

The first gate to the temple is Iljumun which means "single pillar gate" & symbolizes a true path of enlightenment which leads to the world of Buddha. One has to climb 108 stairs to the last building in the compound from this gate. On each step one can renounce each of 108 worldly desires of the mind.

Within the main Prayer Hall (Hall of Great Peace & Light), you will see Vairocana Buddha who is flanked on the left by Manjusri, the Bodhisattva of Perfect Wisdom & on the right by Samantabhadra, the Bodhisattva of Perfect Compassionate Action. Behind the statues are highly detailed & rather unusual wall paintings of Buddha's life. And on the outside walls are a fair number of paintings portraying Buddhist stories.

At the back of this hall is another flight of steps that lead you up to a group of four 15^th century UNESCO  World Heritage listed depositories or Janggyeong Panjeon designed to have natural ventilation by facing different size windows in the front & rear of the building. 

The Depositories house Tripitaka Koreana - carved onto 81,350 wooden printing blocks, which it has housed since 1398. The printing blocks are some 70cm wide, 24cm long and 2.8cm thick on the average. Each block has 23 lines of text, each with 14 characters, on each side & each block thus has a total of 644 characters on both sides. Some 30 men carved the total of 52,382,960 characters in the clean & simple style. The characters are perfectly carved as if from the same hand. They were completed in 1251 after 16 years of work in Jeondeungsa temple on Ganghwado & were transported here for safekeeping.

Tripitaka Koreana - carved onto 81,350 wooden printing blocks, which it has housed since 1398.

The Mongol forces eventually took over the Goryeo Dynasty but the wooden blocks remain preserved today having survived other invasions, wars & fire. Even more amazing aspect is that neither birds build nests nor spiders make webs on these buildings.

Drive on to Songnisan National Park, comprised of 1,058m mountain Mt. Songnisan which has given the park its name & the valleys of Hwayang, Seonyu & Ssanggok. Mt. Songnisan is one of Korea’s most beautiful sites & the sharp granite peaks & the deep valleys of sedimentary rocks are spectacular.

You will pass through Maltijae, a 12 hairpin turn that will lead you a 600 year old pine tree. Shaped like an open umbrella, it is 15m high with a girth of 4.5m. This tree was granted a ministerial title when it reportedly lifted its branches in order to let king's palanquin pass in the mid15^th century. In recent years several branches were damaged by wind & snow, though what remains is still beautiful.

Mt. Songnisan's deep valleys & the many Natural Monuments attract countless mountaineers & tourists. The cherry blossoms in the spring, green pine forest in the summer, and the lovely autumn leaves in the fall make this place beautiful all the year round. The vegetation changes from rich reds to golden greens through the seasons.

Inside the Park area, stop at Beopjusa one of Korea's largest temples,

The Temple is open all year round, but the deciduous trees surrounding the temple make spring and fall the most beautiful times to visit. Spring brings fresh golden greens in the hilltops, a number of flowering trees& gardens in full bloom. Fall turns the oak trees a brilliant red. The weather is also the most temperate this time of year making the visit more enjoyable

Before the entrance & on the hillsides above the Temple, there are many sculptures of turtles. One can be seen in the river just downstream of the temple & it is made from 3 boulders. One boulder with carved eyes representing the head & two representing the front flippers.

With its numerous treasures, Beopjusa Temple is the best place in which to experience the brilliant history of Buddhist civilization.

On the temple’s grounds, distinguished wooden structures dating from the early 1600s are located amidst dramatic, pine-covered peaks while ancient graffiti is etched into huge granite boulders. Upon entering Beopjusa Buddhist Temple‘s main temple gate, towering pine trees stands on either side of the stone pathway.

Gazing down at the Palsangjeon is a 33m high & 160 ton Maitreya Buddha, the “Buddha of the Future” - Cheongdongmireukbul, which is the largest Buddha statue in the world. The years have damaged the figure quite a bit, but it still maintains its original beauty.

There is also a giant iron pot with 2.7m diameter that may well had been used to feed 3,000 priests in the early 12^th century. A stone carved lantern supported by twin lions standing face to face is a rare example of the magnificent Silla sculptures. A stone water cistern shaped like an open lotus flower is known for its unique & beautiful design. This stone lotus blossom from the 8^th century is supported by a round short stone carved like a mushroom. Nearby stand 2 stone pillars which once held the temple banner pole. An excellent carved relief called Maaebul also can be seen near the entrance to the temple.

The Temple holds a Dharma bell striking ceremony at sunset. The bell, which almost all Korean temples are equipped with, is one of the 4 Dharma instruments together with Dharma drum, wooden fish & a cloud-shaped gong. Hearing it reverberating through the universe, you will reflect upon the profound symbolism of the instruments. It is a great vow to save, or enlighten the creatures in the universe including those on land, in the sea, in the air & in hell.

Buddha's Birthday is celebrated here according to the Lunisolar calendar & usually occurs between the end of April to the end of May. During Buddha's Birthday, the temple grounds are full of colorful lanterns that cover the Temple center, as well as through the paths leading up to the entrance gate & there are parades of monks, fragrant flowers & free meals for visitors.

Return to the hotel.

Evening at leisure to relax or for independent activities (we will be happy to offer suggestions & make arrangements).

Morning, depart for Andong located on the Nakdong River is the capital of Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Andong is the self-proclaimed "Capital City of Korean Spiritual Culture", having maintained aspects of the traditional culture of Korea throughout the past 2,000 years. It is a terrific base for exploring the notably 280 cultural & historical assets scattered around the city.

The old ‘hanja’ name for the city that you will see outside the train station & in other places is Peaceful East. The city itself has a very laid-back vibe and is strikingly friendly, with a good selection of places to eat & stay.

Famous for its mackerel, particularly strong soju (local vodka), wooden masks & of course, myriad ancient sites but its international claim to fame comes from having been visited by Queen Elizabeth II of England. So the story goes, the Queen asked to be taken to the most Korean place in Korea & the Korean government took her to Andong.

Immediately on arrival in the city, proceed to see the 15^th century UNESCO World Heritage listed Hahoe -maeul Village (translating to “Village Enveloped by Water”) which became internationally famous after Queen Elizabeth of England visited on April 21, 1999. You can enjoy the true folk culture of Korea & glimpse a bucolic enchantment & gentle rhythms of countryside village life.

Hahoe Village located at the foothills of Hwasan Mountain, an offshoot of Taebaek Mountain that rises up to the east, gets its name from Nakdong River, which flows around the town’s perimeter. 

The best preserved traditional village portraying & spanning the life of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) has 480 fully functioning Korean traditional large tile-roofed houses, adding their own unique charm to the surrounding thatched roof huts of the common people encircle them. Unlike most Korean villages where all the houses face south, the dwellings in this community face in all directions each capturing a unique aspect.

Graced by raised gates representing the power & social status of the Clan, the tile roofed Yangban houses stand serenely & impressively in the central part of the village. The 2 most significant structures are Yangjindang, the head house of the Ryu clan of Pungsan & Chunghyodang - home to descendants of 16^th century scholar & prime-minister, Seoae Ryu Seong-ryong.

This delightful traditional riverside village formed by people who actually live there in every house, is a place to commune with the traditional fabric of old Korea which has preserved the housing architecture & the village structure of the Joseon Dynasty.

You cannot possibly miss an old zelkova tree, the home to the village spirit Samshin-goddess. At the tree's base is where residents still make their wishes by walking around it three times & writing your wish on a tag. Peace or reunification seems to be common answers if stumped. The sight alone of all the aging tags hung off such an ancient tree is worth a peek.

Hahoe Village boasts exquisite scenic sights: the elegant Nakdong River flowing around the village, the magnificent Buyongdae Cliff, endlessly unfolding sandy beaches & lush, ancient pine trees.

The 64m Buyongdae cliff is where at one time the ruling class would conduct a poetry meeting as a traditional fireworks display would pop and crack above the river. Visitors can take the little wooden ferry boat to the Cliff for a rather spectacular panoramic view of the entire village.

Nearby attractions include Bongjeongsa Temple (built during the Silla Period), Gosan Seowon (Confucian Academy), Gwiraejeong, Gyemyeongsan Mountain Recreational Forest, Hakgasan Mountain Recreational Forest & Waryongsan Mountain.

The village is also known for traditional festival, Hahoe Mask Dance which gave common people the opportunity to mock those in authority & in particular, the Byeolsingut, a shaman ritual exorcising evil spirits, dating back to the Goryeo dynasty.

In addition to breathtaking scenery, Hahoe Village offers delectable local delicacies. Try the Andong Soju (distilled alcoholic beverage), Heotjesabap (a type of Bibimbap eaten by the nobles), Andong Gangodeungeo (salted mackerel), and Andong Guksu (a kind of noodle dish).

You will participate in a traditional paper-making workshop to get a glimpse into the world of hand-made paper manufacturing - a painstaking process which hasn't changed much from ancient times. Start with bark from the mulberry tree, then separate the bark from the fibers that would eventually be transformed into paper. After straining the pulp, adding some glue, drying the paper & cutting or coloring according to need, they get a quality paper that is unique to Andong.

Visit Andong Folk Museum offering in-depth information of traditional life & illustrating of Confucian culture. The Museum exhibits a variety of legacies relating mainly to four cardinal ceremonies, coming of an age, wedding, funeral, ancestral memorial service, as well as dozens of pieces of pottery, utensils, clothing, farming tools and traditional folk games in small models. Its outdoor area has thatched houses and a pair of carved totem poles.

The sightseeing concludes & you are transferred to the hotel.

Balance of the day is at leisure to relax or for independent activities (we will be happy to offer suggestions & make arrangements).

Morning, depart for Samcheok, stopping at a couple of places enroute.

But before leaving Andong, view another landmark - Ichon-dong Stone or Jebiwon Buddha.

The awe-inspiring Buddha statue has stood guard over the northern entrance way to Andong for nearly 1000 years, in the southeastern foothills of Cheondeung-san. The 2.43m high head of granite Meitreya Buddha rests on top of a 9.95m high & 7.72m wide stone outcropping engraved with the Buddha's body. It is a relief-carving of the body on a sheer boulder-side, under a 3D-carved head made from a natural stone found on top of that cliff. It is now cared-for by a small temple tucked below & behind it.

Drive on to Punggi, well known throughout Korea for its Ginseng.

As the royal ancestral tablets of the Goryeo Dynasty were enshrined in Mt. Myeongbong, they were named Punggi, after the satire of Eunpung & the flag of Kicheon and promoted the prefecture to the county. A portion of Sobaeksan National Park & the Memorial Park for the Korea Liberation Corps are located in Punggi-eup. It is also the home of Dongyang University.

On arrival, visit the Ginseng market & get a glimpse of the rural ambience in a remote Korean town. 

There are small stalls in the covered market, all of which has piles of fresh ginseng roots, ginseng preserved in wine in fancy bottles, dried ginseng, tea, extract, candy & honey ginseng slices. There are also many shops along the street leading out from the painfully quiet train station. Street vendors sell flowers, fruits, food stuff, grains & vegetables.

This mysterious root, which has a good smell better than it tastes, has historically been considered an empowering medicine & a cure-all; effective in recovering the liver's functions, improving anticancer  & immunity functions & treating diabetes, hypertension, low blood pressure & stress. Ginseng also facilitates recovery from fatigue & the activation of nervous cells.

Continue driving towards Samcheok.

Stop at Sosu Seowon (also called Baekundong Seowon),was the first private Neo-Confucian academy established in 1543 by Ju Se-bung (magistrate of Pungseong county & Confucian scholar) as a birthplace of Confucian education & a cradle of prominent scholars.

Ju Se-bung was a man ahead of his time. Private academies blossomed across Korea in short order, but because Sosu Seowon was the first, it became one of the richest. After Ju Se-bung departed as magistrate, local scholars continued fund raising campaigns, receiving vast donations of grain, land & slaves to support the academy.

It comprises of 9 seowon, representing a type of Neo-Confucian academy of the Joseon dynasty (15^th - 19^th centuries). There are several old buildings where scholars learned & studied loyalty, filial piety, veneration of scholars, manners, knowledge & interaction with the environment were the essential functions of the seowons, expressed in their design. Situated near mountains & water sources, they favoured the appreciation of nature & cultivation of mind & body. The pavilion-style buildings were intended to facilitate connections to the landscape. The seowons illustrate a historical process in which Neo-Confucianism from China was adapted to Korean conditions.

It was found at the entrance of Suksusa Temple & has been well preserved retaining most of its old structures. The institute includes Munseonggong a Shrine, built to enshrine An Yang, a local Confucian scholar who lived during the end of the Goryeo Dynasty & who had brought Neo-Confucianism to Korea from China in the 13^th century. An Bo, An Chuk & Je Se-bung are also enshrined here & a Memorial service takes place twice a year on the first day of the 3^rd & 9^th months by the lunar calendar.

The basic principle of Chinese architectural locates the study facilities at the front of the structure & the Shrine to the rear, as seen in most Korean Confucian academies. But Sosu Seowon is based on the arrangement of having the study facilities placed in the east & the shrine placed in the west, positioning the greater emphasis on the east. About 4,000 scholars, including the pupils of Confucian scholar Toegye Yi Hwang, studied at the institute.

Inside the institute is the Sosu Museum which exhibits a wide range of traditional Confucian cultural assets.

After spending an hour, drive on to Buseok to see Buseoksa Temple located near Mt. Bonghwang

Also called the "Temple of the Floating Stone", it was founded by the prominent scholar-monk Uisang in 676 AD, the 16^th year of King Munmu of Silla. The Temple was built following Uisang's return from China, where he had heard reports that the Chinese emperor was planning to invade Korea (these reports turned out to be true). Uisang convinced the king of Silla that constructing Buseoksa would invoke Buddha's help in warding off this threat. Apparently it worked, for the Koreans fended off the Chinese armies & secured the unification of Korea. Part of “Flower Garland” sect of Buddhism, Buseoksa is so-named because of a large rock beside the western hall that appears to float above the stones underneath.

108 steps that symbolize 108 sufferings and evil passions lead visitors to the main hall - Muryangsujeon, the second-oldest wooden structure in Korea.

Enshrined here is the 7^th century Amitabha Buddha with the earth-touching & evil-expelling hand posture. A stone lantern made during Unified Silla period stands in the front & to the west of the hall at the bottom of a steep bluff, there is a legendary floating stone.

To the east is a 3 story Pagoda behind which is a pavilion dedicated to the Chinese girl who, in the form of a dragon, helped Master Uisang. In addition, the Temple has many treasures, stone pagodas, the flagpole supports, the Goryeo wood-blocks, the stupa in which the remains of famous monks are kept &  some of the mural paintings which have survived Korea's turbulent history.

Drive on to Hwanseon Cave is one of the largest limestone caves in Asia & the biggest in Korea with 6.2 km of known passages & a total suspected length of 8 km, 1.6 km of which are visited by over a million people annually.

The Cave itself is super massive & it would take well over one hour to explore. Be prepared for wet walkways, maneuvered up a narrow corridor with a rapidly flowing creek below it and hung off the side of the cave's walls above the creek.

Legend has it that long time ago, a monk came to this cave to meditate but no one ever saw him came out. People thought that he became a hermit, thus the Cave was named Hwanseongul.

In the stream near the entrance, many salamanders are living. Along the walls of the cave often time a phenomenon known as cave coral, and pockets up on the ceilings could be spotted. The walls spout water from innumerable cracks & seeps, which join to make good-sized streams, waterfalls & pools. Several tributary streams merge into one that flows out through the entrance. Many waterfalls are actively eroding the floor; this cave is truly a high-energy cave.

One of the most popular sights in the cave is this hollowed out rock formation shaped like a heart. Follow a rope suspension bridge over an extremely deep chasm, leading you to the second main chamber. Later down one of the side chambers is an unusual rock formation that looks like the Virgin Mary. And, on a side trail, you will go around a rock formation known as the Great Wall.

Finally, reach Samcheok by late afternoon & Check-in at the hotel.

With lovely green hills all about, sedate little Samcheok is the gateway to an unusual mix of sightseeing spots in the neighboring towns. The town has a rousing Full Moon Festival in February, with tug-of-war competitions.

There is an inimitable Haesindang Penis Park (with phallic sculptures, not body parts) within a lovely wooded setting & pretty beaches tucked away in quiet coves.

Legend has it that long ago, a young girl died a virgin, by drowning in the ocean (different versions of the legend have different stories of how/why she died). After she died, the nearby fishing village started having problems - all the fish were gone. One day, some guy exposed his penis to the ocean (whether by urinating or what have you) & then the fish came back. The villagers finally understood that the virgin girl’s ghost was driving away the fish & the only way to please her was to build statues of penises to look at. So they did. And thus, Haesindang Park was born.

Balance of the day s at leisure to relax or for independent exploration.

Morning, depart for Samcheok, stopping at a couple of places enroute

Today, you will explore the charm & excitement of one of Korea’s most unique areas - mountains & ocean vistas.

Stop at Jeongdongjin, a tiny picturesque village located by the ocean & one of the most popular sites in Korea for watching the sunrise on New Year's Day.

In ancient times, at Jeongdongjin, the King held a memorial service for the Dragon King of the 4 seas. At the beginning of the Korean War, the beach was a landing area for the 766^th Independent Infantry Regiment from North Korea.

Long a favorite spot among the locals, the area gained wider popularity after being chosen as the filming location for the popular soap opera Moraeshigae (meaning Sandglass) in 1994. There is a huge hour-glass monument that measures a full year & a very surreal hotel in the shape of a Cruise Liner on top of a cliff.

Here, you will find a quaint railway station notable for its location as being the closest to the ocean anywhere in the world, alongside a 250m sandy beach which has 3 major swimming spots: in front of the Station, at Moraeshigae Park & at the Jeongdongjin Seawalls. The numerous rocks in front of the Station are home to shellfish, mussels, sea urchins & sea mustard.

Aside from swimming, visitors can further appreciate the beauty of nature by checking out the Sculpture (Sunrise) Park & Heonhwaro, located to the south of the Park.

A key attraction of Jeongdongjin is the ‘sunrise’. The early morning sun rising over the ocean & outlining the Station & surrounding pines is a sight that has been described as "straight out of a fairy tale". Many visitors trek up to the summit of Mt. Goseong, located at the Park’s center, to the Yeongin Pavilion, a prime location for catching the sun’s first rays During the New Year, Jeongdongjin Sunrise Park is the location of the Sunrise Festival & the ceremonial "turning of the hourglass", signifying the changing year.

The Jeongdongjin Sunrise Tourist Train has become a crowd favorite as well, ever since its inauguration in 1997.

Fishermen sailing from the small harbor catch Pacific saury, abalone & sole. A ceremony asking God to protect the town, combined with ceremonial prayers for a large catch of fish, is held twice a year in Jeongdongjin. The day of the first full moon of the lunar year & Dano are also festive occasions.

Drive on to nearby Gangneung, the largest city on the Gangwon-do coast which has hosted many events of the 2018 Winter Olympics including Figure & Speed Skating, Ice Hockey & Curling.

Gangneung is considered special in that it has access to both a lake & the sea, particularly near the sandy Gyeongpo Beach, which has a line of fresh seafood restaurants. It’s close proximity to Seoul making it a popular summer destination.

Its cultural hotspots include the well-preserved Joseon-era buildings like Gyeongpodae - a pavilion built with 28 pillars, overlooking Gyeongpo lake near the city centre.  It is said that one can see the moon 5 times when at Gyeongpodae. Once in the sky, once reflected in the lake, once reflected in the sea, once reflected in the drinking glass & once more in the eyes of a lover. The best view of the moon is on the 15^th of the lunar month.

Gangneung also has numerous festivals. The biggest & most famous is the UNESCO World Heritage listed ("Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity") Gangneung Dano Festival at the Dano fairground near the Namdae River. Nowadays, it is a combination of several commemoration rites & traditional plays. A highlight is the traditional Gwanno Mask Dance (Gwanno Gamyeongeuk), which is only performed at this festival.

In addition to well established festivals like the Dano, there are several newer festivals in Gangneung, such as the IJAF (International Junior Art Festival) - a cultural festival for youth from all over the world. The Festival includes both performances of the participating groups & a diversified cultural program demonstrating the essence of Korean culture.

There are a number of historical remains & Museums in Gangneung. The most prominent being the Ojukheon Museum, which is named after a special black bamboo growing in this area. It was the birthplace of the famous artist, calligrapher & poet Shin Saimdang (1504 - 1551) (whose image is on the 50,000 won note) & her son, the scholar Yulgok (1536 -1584) (whose image is on the South Korean 5,000 won note). It includes one of the oldest wooden buildings in Korea. Several shrines & old residential buildings deliver insight into the lives of these famous Koreans.

Next to the Ojukheon Museum, there is the Gangneung Municipal Museum which features folklore & antique pieces illustrating the history of the city. Located in the hills surrounding Gangneung City, there is the revealing Daegwallyeong Museum. It consists of a private collection with more than 1000 artifacts & shows the agricultural history of the region. They are matched by quirky modern attractions, such as a Museum lovingly dedicated to Thomas Edison & a North Korean submarine.

You will drive past the North Korean submarine that ran aground & was wrecked in the nearby coastal waters on the 18^th of September, 1996. 3 armed guerillas came aground while others remained on standby in the submarine.

The leader gave a signal to the submarine to come closer to the seashore. However, while approaching, it was struck by big waves & hit the big boulders on the beach.  They tried to move it back to the sea but eventually gave up. They set a fire inside the submarine in order to destroy the evidence such as confidential information & documents and escaped from it.

The South Korean Counterespionage operation was in progress for 49 days & all guerrillas were mopped out; one was captured alive, 13 spies were shot & 11 were murdered by their colleagues. The South Koreans salvaged the Submarine & put it on display together with retired Korean navy ship.

Continue on to the next stop - Pyeongchang county notable for hosting the 2018 Winter Olympics.

Travellers still come for the snow; two main ski resorts in the area, Alpensia and Yongpyong, hosted most of the 2018 events. Alpensia served as the main Olympic Village, hosting the ski jumping, luge, bobsleigh & cross-country skiing, while Yongpyong, which is one of northeast Asia’s better ski resorts, hosted the downhill slalom events.

It is also known for Odaesan National Park, with trails crisscrossing the Taebaek Mountains.

The Park is also home to several Buddhist temples, including Woljeongsa Temple - a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, founded in 643 by the Silla monk Jajang, located on the eastern slopes of Odaesan

Enshrined in the Main Hall is a statue of Sakyamuni, but the more important statue is a 1.8m high Bodhisattva, probably a Medicine Bodhisattva. Said to have been found in the Diamond Pond to the south of the temple, the statue’s head is covered with a hat, with a long face & ears partially hidden by long hair. Around the neck there are three lines which are so beautifully carved hat they look like necklaces. The elbow is resting on the head of a young boy.

Next to the Bodhisattva is an octagonal 9 story 15.2m high Pagoda which is representative of the many-angled, many-storied stupas of the Goryeo Period.

Another amazing part of the temple is the 800m road passing under an arch of 1,700 tall fir trees. Stroll the path listening to the trickles of stream & smelling the fresh yet musky fir trees.

You may also drive over the scenic Jingogae road to enjoy the wonderful colors as the seasons change - Pink azaleas decorating the valleys, the thick forest & crystal clear stream water cooling off the summer heat, the fantastic autumn foliage putting on a brilliant show of color & the snow creating a sublime scenery.

Spend time at the Temple.

You may also visit the Lee Hyo-seok Culture Village - the place where the 20^th century poet & author Lee Hyo-Seok (pen name “Gasan”) was born & raised. The village is also the setting of the author’s story "When the Buckwheat Blossoms,” one of the most celebrated Korean short stories to date. The village features the author's house, a water mill, Chungjujip, Gasan Park, Lee Hyo-seok Memorial Hall & a Buckwheat Museum.

In the blossoming season, you can enjoy the beautiful scenery of snow-white fields of buckwheat flowers & from late August to early September, the annual Lee Hyo-seok Cultural Festival takes place here.During the festival, visitors can enjoy makguksu (buckwheat noodles) & memil buchim (buckwheat pancakes) & see the locales mentioned in the famous short story.

You will drive by Gisamun beach, in the middle of which runs the 38^th parallel north latitude that divided the country in 1945. Tucked away in a small village, the beach is rather unpopular to casual vacationers while popular among surfers, being one of the best five winter surfing spots in Korea. The water runs deep and the beach has high waves that approach the shore in a straight line without breaking up into small waves.

Then, the journey continues to 7^th century Naksansa Temple -  a Korean Buddhist temple complex of the Jogye order of Korean Buddhism that stands on the slopes of Naksan Mountain (also called "Obongsan Mountain"),  overlooking the East Sea.

In April 2005, the temple with all the surroundings was burned to the ground. Today, 12 temple buildings & facilities have been restored. During a repair, it is said that a Buddhist rosary & a magic bead were sealed inside the pagoda.

Naksansa's 7 storied stone Pagoda, Naksansa Chilcheung Seoktap built in 1467, the 13^th year of the reign of King Sejo.  The Pagoda is an example of the Goryeo style, having a single square foundation. The square foundation on this pagoda is carved with 24 lotus petals & with thin eaves, a straight slope & upward edges.

The exquisitely decorated main Hall is full of statues of the Bodhisattva in various poses & you will appreciate the skill of Korean woodcarving. There is a fine 6.2m tall seven-story stone pagoda that is believed to have been erected in the 15^th century.

Built on the edge of the cliff, Hongryeonam built by Uisang as a Hermitage above a stone cave, is among the popular spots in the temple. In the sanctuary floor there is a 10cm opening through which you can see the sea below.  An unimaginable sight, you can see the surging waves constantly & mercilessly crushing against the cliff. The sound of waves crashing goes up into the temple & the fresh sea air also fills the temple. Near the Hermitage, is Uisangdae pavilion perched on top of a cliff by the sea, where Uisang used to sit & meditate.

Drive on to Seoraksan National Park.

The rugged peaks, fantastic cliffs, numerous waterfalls, unique rock formations & scenic valleys altogether make this Park & surrounding area some of the best scenery on the Korean peninsula, and give this area an unparalleled popularity around the year.

The spring brings full blooms & summer creates lush green vegetation & crystal clear streams tumble over the cataracts. Fall changes the foliage into brilliant colors & even in winter, the snow blankets the hushed landscape, bringing serenity & a quiet beauty.

Finally, reach the hotel by evening & Check-in.

Balance of the evening is at leisure.

Today is devoted to a full day of Hiking.

There are many self-guided hikes to choose from, walking amidst dramatic scenery & landscapes to explore with valleys, impressive waterfalls, and fancy rock formations providing just a glimpse into the natural beauty of Seoraksan.

Only a small distance from the Park entrance, following the one-pillared gate, you will marvel at one of the largest bronze statues in Korea.

The 10m high Unification Buddha symbolizing Korean people's hope for reunification of the country, sits on a lotus pedestal, which is flanked with 16 inscribed panels describing the entire path of Buddha's enlightenment. You will also explore one of the oldest Zen Temple in Korea - Sinheungsa dating back to AD 652, situated at a fork in the scenic trails.

Your hiking begins at the Temple as there are 2 main trails available leading you to Cheonbuldong valley & Ulsanbawi. The signs are prominently displayed & there is a constant flow of people on the hiking trails.

Cheonbuldong Valley Trail is the most impressive Tail in the Park, leading to Biseondae, Yangpok waterfalls & the peak of Seoraksan (1,708m).

One hears many legends of the heavenly nymphs who come down to play at Biseondae while taking a bath in the placid pools of the valleys that are hidden from the human eyes. You will follow the path along this valley which is most well-known for its breathtaking view. Near Biseondae rises Janggunbong majestically & among the crags of it is Geumgang cave with a tiny temple inside.

The trail maintains a relatively gentle slope until reaching the base of the peak, where it immediately turns arduous as it heads up a very steep 600m incline. Even though there are stairs with guardrail, the climb up can still be steep & exhausting. You can scale only by carefully ascending the long, steep, metal stairs bolted onto the sheer cliff face. The hike, although hard, comes with a stunning view of numerous cliffy peaks & mountain valley.

Ulsanbawi Trail: About an hour & a half into the walk, you will arrive at the 7^th century Gyejoam Hermitage located at the base of Ulsanbawi & the point at which the trail takes a sharp rise upwards.

In front of the Hermitage, on a spacious stone slab is a huge spherical rock called Heundeulbawi. This rock is so perfectly balanced that it can be shaken with some effort, but nobody gets further than waggling it.

Your adventure begins by climbing a massive steep staircase that winds its way up the side of the cliff that angle up Ulsanbawi, a 2.8km long ridge of gray stone peaks jutting 873m into the sky from the rock's base. An hour of sweaty, thigh burning, calf clenching climbing later, you will finally step off the stairs and back onto solid rock at the summit. Overall, the rock is worth a visit to those who love nature & adventure.

Biryong Waterfall Trail is relatively easy & you will see a very pretty waterfall at the end.

And for non-hikers, there is a Cable Car that starts from the valley floor to the Gwongeumseong offering a panoramic view of the entire valley.

The peak is surrounded by cavernous drop-off cliffs, cloaked in more towering rocky summits. At the top, you will enjoy sweeping panoramic views of the Park, the Pacific Ocean & the small beachside town of Sokcho.

One has to be careful as the top is always crowded & there is not much space to move about .

Come back to the hotel & relax for the balance of the day.

Morning, depart for more discoveries on your way to Hwacheon, driving through tranquill nature & beautiful landscape.   

Enroute, stop at Hwajinpo, a charming coastal town near the military demarcation line & by the scenic lagoon edged by sweetbriers & reeds.

Here, you will see the Villa of Kim Ilsung, former leader of North Korea, perhaps better known as the Castle of Hwajinpo, for its fortress-like exterior.

Situated at the foot of a small mountain by the beach, it is where Kim Ilsung & his family spent their summer holidays until 1950 & also by high-level members of the Communist Party from 1948 to 1950.

It was designed & built by Weber, a German in 1938 after Korea became an independent nation on August 15, 1945. The Castle in Hwajinpo Lake was built with stone as a 2 story structure. The interior keeps history alive through a set-up of personal items used by the Kim family including photos, documents & materials chronicling the life of Kim Ilsung & modern Korean history.  There is one photo in particular of a young Kim Jong il standing at the foot of the stairs, that brings a sense of intimacy to this secretive family.

After ‘38 line was made, the whole area of Goseong-gun was occupied by Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK). In 1950, when the Korean War broke out, the south area of Goseong-gun was included to South Korea. When the Korean War ended in 1953, the border between the Koreas was redrawn, and the Hwajinpo wound up in the South. In 1964 it was rebuilt by the South Korean Army & had been used as Military resort. Photographs containing the old villa's look & the model of a living-room suite etc are exhibited.

There are also other places to see, depending on the time. Hwajinpo Ecology Museum, an educational museum designed to preserve environments, the nearby Maritime Museum, Songjiho Migratory Bird Observation Tower, etc.

Next stop is at Geojin where the quaint charm of this coastal town captivates every visitor.

As you stroll down through the fishing village, you will see the boats sailing in & off, fishermen tending their nets & elderly women drying fishes in the sun & selling fishes on the sleepy roadsides off the dock - a delightful treat to a rural lifestyle.

Drive on as the road gradually rises up to a higher elevation & villages or farmlands disappear from view & you get the feeling of locked in the mountains. It generally has very light traffic in this comparatively remote area.  

Stop at the small village of Haean that sits in the circular concave shape of the terrain resembled a punch bowl.

It is a natural geologic bowl several kilometers across, ringed by steep mountains on four sides. The bowl encompasses the starkly beautiful farmland in the area. Many fierce battles were fought here during the Korean War because of its strategic location. The Battle of Bloody Ridge took place here in August 1951 immediately followed by the Battle of Heartbreak Ridge just a couple of months later. Meanwhile the US 1st Marine Division reinforced by the Korean Marine Corps Regiment captured the line of hills in the Battle of the Punch Bowl later.

See the nearby Eulji Observation Post & the 4^th Tunnel

The Eulji Observatory located on the ridge of Gachilbong, about 1 km south of the Military Demarcation Line & 7.2 km from the Yanggu Unification Hall.

On December 12, 1987, the President visited the Army's 1862 unit to propose the establishment of a Security Education Center and the complex was including the Observatory was built.

This Observatory is a 2 story concrete slab building with a height of 10m & a floor of 98 pyeong.  From the Observation Deck, 1000m above sea level, in good weather, you can enjoy the stunning 360 degree panorama of the Punch Bowl & the 4 Peaks (Ceilbong, Wolchulbong, Mireukbong, Sunrisebong) in addition to an ominous view of North Korea.

Then, explore one of the 4 known tunnels passing under the DMZ, dug secretly by the North & check out a vivid hint of the surprise attack & plans for future military operations against the South.

The 4^th Tunnel located 1,200m from the Military Demarcation Line in the demilitarized zone was discovered on March 3, 1990. This is the only tunnel to be discovered that provides full access to public on guided tours. Instructions are given in the square outside the tunnel. Around the entrance, there are many safety centers & monuments including military equipment to see.

Among the artifacts, the most noticeable is the statue of the military dog, ‘Hunt’ - an investigatory dog that died during the process of initial exploration & discovery of the Tunnel. It died as it stepped on a North Korean mine & thus saved the lives of the Squad.  There are no ranks for military dogs, but Hunt was declared as a lieutenant upon his death.

The Safety Education Center has a theatre & an exhibition hall with a capacity of 200 people & offers 3D projections featuring the North Korean sites to enable a better understanding of North Korea.

Next stop is the Peace Dam that measures 125m high & 601m wide. It was built to stave off possible catastrophic flooding should the upstream Imnam Dam in North Korea collapse, either intentionally or by accident.

Although it can hold back 2.63 billion tons of water, there is no reservoir behind this dam. Peace Dam was built as merely preventive. Near the Dam is a small Water Museum, which teaches the importance of water conservation. Alongside the dam are plaques with prints of photos & wish-well notes from Nobel Peace Prize winners.  

In the Peace Dam complex, there is the International Peace Art Park with all kinds of manifestations to demonstrate what the South Koreans (& presumably the North Koreans) really want: peace. There are brightly colored tanks, one of them chained to the ground, another turned into a slide for kids, a third on which the barrel has been sculptured into a trumpet.

You will also see World Peace Bell made in 2008, using empty cartridge cases gathered from the around 30 of the world’s conflict zones & it certainly carries a significant meaning.

The humongous bell weights 37.5 ton but is incomplete. One part is missing: a piece of a decorative pigeon wing, which is visible behind glass on the side with a note “When the reunification is a fact, the wing will be added” to signify that Bell would be completed on the day of unification of Korea.

Alongside are displays with cartridges that weren’t used. Behind them are explanatory panels with copies of the sender of those cartridges. It tells personal stories that had made people feel connected this project. Among the countries that contributed were:

·          Mexico (1846-1848 American Mexican War and 1910-1917 Civil War)

• UK (1812-1814 Anglo American War)
• Ethiopia (1935-1936 Italy Ethiopia War)
• China (various confrontations, with Taiwan, Indian border and Tibetan independence movement)
• Among the others are Israel, Papua New Guinea, Japan, Russia & Vietnam

Continue on Hwacheon County, just 9 km away from the DMZ.

Reach the hotel & Check-in.

The county consists largely of mountains & rivers, between which are small farming communities, military bases & military training grounds. The area is renowned for its rivers, lake trout, indigenous otters & natural scenery.

Before 1900, Hwacheon was extremely sparsely populated, with only a few small villages alongside major rivers, due to its rugged terrain & harsh winters. Once the Hwacheon Dam was completed in 1944 & electricity was generated, it proved to be a boon. However, it also became a source of conflict during the Korean War due to its strategic value as both a power plant & potential weapon (by intentionally flooding downstream areas). But it ended up well inside allied territory with the establishment of the DMZ to the north in 1953.

Hwacheoncheon is very cold & is home to the yearly Sancheoneo ice fishing festival & almost a million visitors try to catch as many Sncheoneo (Korean wild trout) as possible in the month of January. The Hwacheon Sancheoneo Festival is denoted by CNN as one of the 7 wonders of winter.  Other annual events in Hwacheon include the Jjokbae (water raft) Festival in late July, the Tomato Festival in mid-August & the Dragon Festival.

Balance of the day is at leisure to stroll around on your own.

Morning, depart for Seoul.

Arrive by noon & Check-in

Balance of the day free to relax or for optional activities (we would be happy to offer suggestions & make the arrangements).

 Day 18 - | Depart ✈ Seoul at ????