Welcome to Enchanting Journeys

Real travelers love South America. Andean peaks, Amazonian rainforest, Patagonian glaciers, Incan ruins, colonial towns, white-sand beaches and vertiginous nightlife: the wonders of South America set the stage for incredible adventures. It is as though the continent was built for travel; a place that excites, thrills, challenges & infuriates.

Landscapes rivalled by few….Beautiful, defiant & intense. It is apparent why Argentina has long held travelers in awe with its streetside tango, wafting grills, futbol (soccer), gaucho culture & the mighty Andes, Patagonia. It is one formidable cocktail of wanderlust.

And, Buenos Aires combines faded grandeur of European colonial architecture with Latin passion. Sexy & alive, this beautiful city gets under your skin.

Arrive in Buenos Aires (Spanish translation "fair winds" or "good airs"), the capital & largest city of Argentina located on the western shore of the estuary of the Río de la Plata, on the South American continent's southeastern coast. BA was founded in the 16^th century & it’s original name was "Real de Nuestra Senora Santa María del Buen Ayre", named after the Madonna of Bonaria in Sardinia. An energetic & seductive port city that has been the gateway to Argentina for centuries, with charming neighbourhoods offering their own colourful flavours.

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport, subsequent to Immigration & Customs, you will be welcomed by The Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the hotel, help you settle in & provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for the next few days.

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes of waiting, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer.  Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel.

Reach the hotel & Check-in.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’.

Balance of the day at leisure or perhaps opt for one of the options available (we will be happy to offer suggestions & make arrangements).

Sexy, alive & supremely confident, this beautiful city gets under your skin. Like Europe with a melancholic twist, Buenos Aires is unforgettable.

Steak, Wine & Ice Cream| Art & Architecture| Nightlife |Tango

Arriving in Buenos Aires is like jumping aboard a moving train. The modern metropolis whizzes by, alive with street life from busy sidewalk cafes, to hush parks carpeted in purple jacaranda blooms in springtime. There are heaps of bookstores, creative boutiques & gourmet eats.

BA is an amazing city, an astonishing metropolis that looks a bit like Europe, but with an edgy Latin American twist. Stylish Portenos (as BA residents are called) savor public life – whether it is sharing mate (a tea-like beverage) on Sunday in the park or gelato under handsome early 20^th century stone facades. Portenos are passionate, opinionated & - once you get past their hard-city facade - very friendly. Walk among them along the busy avenues, taking in the street life & often the craziness that goes along with it. This is a very special place, beautiful in its own unique way, resilient & creative. It is the kind of city travelers fall in love with, dream about & then move to!

Look closely: this city is beautiful. Sure, it might look like a concrete jungle from certain angles, but stroll through the streets, paying attention to the magnificent architecture around you, and you will soon be won over. Grand French & Italian-style palaces grab the limelight, but you will see interesting architectural details in the buildings of even low-key, local barrios. These days the beauty of these traditional neighborhoods is further enhanced by colorful murals painted by artists involved in the city's vibrant street-art scene. For these talented individuals, the city is their canvas.

Cultural activities abound here. Tango is possibly Argentina’s greatest contribution to the outside world. The steamy dance has been described as ‘making love in the vertical position’. Folklore says it began in the bordellos of long-ago Buenos Aires, when men waiting for their 'ladies' passed time by dancing amongst themselves. Today, glamorized tango shows are supremely entertaining with their grand feats of athleticism. You will also find endless venues for perfecting your moves, from salons to milongas (dance events) to cafes. Just realize that some people become addicted - & can spend a lifetime perfecting this sensual dance.

BA doesn't sleep. Take a disco nap, down some coffee & be prepared to stay up all night. Restaurants get going at 9.00 pm, bars at midnight & clubs at 2.00 am at the earliest; serious clubbers don't show up until 4.00 am. And it is not just the young folk who head out on the town in this city; BA's diverse range of bars, clubs & live-music venues offers something for everyone, from DJs spinning electronica to live jazz sets.

And what about futbol (soccer)? Argentines are passionately devoted to this sport & if you are a fan, chanting & stomping alongside other stadium fanatics should definitely be in your plans. Add a distinctive Argentine take on literature, cinema, music & arts, and you have a rich, edgy culture – part Latin American & part European – that you can’t help but fall in love with.

Fancy some Indian, French, Vietnamese, Lebanese, Thai, Scandinavian, Mexican, Brazilian, Peruvian, Armenian or American food during your stay in BA? No problem. But for many travelers, it is the city's carnivorous pleasures that shine. Satisfying that craving for juicy steaks isn't hard to do in the land that has perfected grilling those wonderfully flavorful sides of beef. Parrillas (steakhouses) sit on practically every corner & will offer up myriad cuts, from bife de chorizo (sirloin) to vacio (flank steak) to ojo de bife (rib eye). But leave room for ice cream, if you can – a late-night cone of dulce de leche (caramel) helado can't be topped. Vegetarians, you have been warned!

It is no joke: Buenos Aires is a shopper's paradise. The city is laced with shopping streets lined with heaps of clothing & shoe stores, leather shops & nearly everything else you can think of. Large shopping malls are modern & family-friendly, offering designer goods, food courts & even children's play areas. But perhaps the city's best shopping is in Palermo Viejo, where countless upscale boutiques live; these offer avant-garde clothing, unique housewares & fun souvenirs. And let us not forget San Telmo, where antiques aficionados flock; the Sunday fair here is famous & entertaining, and will easily fill up a long afternoon.

Take a cat nap, down your coffee & be prepared to stay up all night - this is a city that never sleeps! Restaurants open at 9.00 pm, bars at midnight & clubs at 2.00 am - at the very earliest. If you are cool, of course, you will show up after 4.00 am & dance till dawn. International DJs are the rage, spinning electronica & house to legions of hip, trendy & well-dressed crowds. But you can also enjoy live music such as rock, blues, jazz & even folk - just remember that you will be doing it all very late!

Evening around 06.00 pm, you will be met by a Journeys Rep / Driver & proceed for Dinner at Restaurant “Un Aplauso pa’l Asador”, which is not only a roasted grilled dinner but a truly Argentinean experience. You will also see a folk dance & music show, during & after the dinner.

For Argentines, an Asado Criollo is a ritual, a tradition, a good excuse to meet with friends & relatives. That is why we invite you to discover the secrets of cooking a delicious Asado.

The experience commences with lighting the fire, preparing the beef & the right dressing: the “Chimichurri” sauce. We will also get tips on the proper temperature & cooking time. True Asadors master their grill with flare and finesse.

Then you will enjoy more the Asado you just helped in cooking!

You will notice another tradition… if the Asado is really good & tasty one of the guests at the table stands up and says “Un aplauso pa’l asador!” (clap your hands & congratulate the cook!). Wine is also an important part of this experience. A basic principle of food & wine pairing is to match wines with regional dishes, since local flavors tend to have a natural affinity. This becomes evident when enjoying Argentine Malbec with the Asado.

Return to the hotel.

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 09:00 am & proceed for a 4 hour sightseeing tour of Buenos Aires, a cosmopolitan city that shows the influence of the numerous waves of immigrants that formed it.

Start at the historic Plaza de Mayo Square, the oldest public Square in BA that has been the scene of many of the most important events in the city's history, from the second founding of the city in 1580, through the revolution of independence, to more recent political demonstrations. Plaza de Mayo is the place where Argentines gather in vehement protest or jubilant celebration.

Its current name commemorates the May Revolution of 1810 that began in what was then called the Plaza de la Victoria. Six years later Argentina won independence from Spain & the Square was given its current name, May Square. At the center is the Piramide de Mayo, a white obelisk built to mark the first anniversary of independence from Spain.

Among the 3 important historic buildings surrounding the Plaza are the pink coloured Casa Rosada (or Casa de Gobierno) - the executive mansion & office of the President of Argentina & considered one of the most emblematic buildings in Buenos Aires which also houses a Museum, which contains objects relating to former presidents of Argentina.

The Town Hall Cabildo, dating back to 1580 which was the site of Spain's colonial administration in the city. Originally constructed from adobe & thatch, the current building was constructed over the second half of the 18th century, witnessed the Argentine Revolution in 1810 & served as an important administrative building during the first century of Argentine independence.

The Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral - the main Catholic church in Buenos Aires where Archbishop Jorge Bergoglio used to perform mass before assuming office in the Vatican in 2013 as Pope Francis. In Bergoglio's honour, the Cathedral now houses the Pope Francis Museum, which exhibits some of his personal & liturgical objects.

Every major city in the world has a famous main avenue, for example, New York has 5^th Avenue & Paris has the Champs Elysees. Buenos Aires is no exception & like its steak sizes, the Portenos were generous when constructing the 3km main avenue, Avenida 9 de Julio, a major thoroughfare in the city centre with its 8 lanes divided by small green squares with old leafy trees, enriched by sculptures & fountains. Named after the day of Argentina’s Independence on 9^th July 1816, construction of the imposing Avenue began in the 1930s & was finally completed in 1980, gaining the title of the widest street in the world!

As the traffic lights turn red, jugglers, fire eaters & other street performers begin their short shows in order to make a few pesos. However, within all this noise & energy, you can enjoy the tranquillity of the small tree-lined plazas & gardens which run the length of the avenue.

Find a bench and pass some time soaking up the liveliness of Buenos Aires by watching the street performers, the frenzied traffic, or taking the opportunity to try & fit the whole of the Avenue into one incredible panoramic photograph capturing all aspects of Buenos Aires life.

At the very center of the avenue where it crosses with Avenida de Mayo, is one of Buenos Aires’ most famous & recognized landmarks. The Obelisk, or Obelisco, is a 70m high, white, needle-like structure that was constructed to commemorate Buenos Aires’ 400^th Anniversary. Today it is the focal point for many Porteno celebrations & the starting point of many of the political demonstrations. There are plenty of other wide avenues with some green patches which attempt to slow down the rhythm of this vertiginous city.

Continue walking south to the picturesque & colorful port neighborhood of La Boca where you will find the famous Caminito street (little path, in Spanish) - a street museum of colourful painted houses typical of the immigrant dwellings that reflects through its architecture & customs, the influence of the European citizens who arrived on these shores in the late 19^th century, especially Genoese sailors.

The place acquired cultural significance because it inspired the music for the famous Tango "Caminito", composed by Juan de Dios Filiberto. Today, there are several works by Argentine artists incorporated as part of the street museum & the Caminito has become a favourite with visitors to the city. Several restaurants offer tango & folk dance shows and street fills with artists offering original crafts & paintings.

Continue on towards San Telmo, indoor market (Mercado de San Telmo) built in 1897 in one of Buenos Aires oldest neighborhoods surrounded by colonial houses & cobbled streets in the eponymous neighborhood.

Explore the covered market, which is largely a foodie affair, but has booths of collectables such as antique dolls, second-hand records, vintage jewellery & clothing.

Every Sunday, the area around the market hosts the city’s most famous street fair, the Feria de San Telmo, when hundreds of vendors line the streets surrounding Plaza Dorrego, most of them dealing in one-of-a-kind antiques. What started as a small gathering of about 30 antiques vendors in 1970, when the fair was inaugurated, has expanded to a crowd of nearly 300.

During the rest of the week, locals buy fresh produce & meat at the indoor market, which is said to have some of the best coffee in town.

There is stall upon stall laden with the bright & shiny: used copper kitchenware, vintage buttons, military regalia, toys, magazines, books, posters, records, ancient telephones, lamps, pieces of lace, exquisite art, tortoiseshell spectacle frames, fans, beaded bags, fragile antique clothing, memorabilia from the Peron era & all manner of ornaments that show the South American, Spanish & Italian influences of modern Buenos Aires.

Tango dancers, buskers & other entertainers vie for the attention of the thousands of shoppers who flood the San Telmo neighborhood on Sundays. San Telmo being the oldest neighborhood in BA is one of the best places in the city to experience the passion of the Argentine tango. Visitors are likely to see an impromptu Tango performance right out on the street during the weekly Feria de San Telmo.

Then walk towards the modern & well-off district of Puerto Madero; Palermo neighbourhood, with its elegant residences framed by wide green areas; and finally see the tony district of Recoleta, the most sophisticated area where the rich live.

The sightseeing ends & you are transferred back to the hotel (or continue exploring & go back to the hotel on your own).

In the evening, enjoy a memorable night out in Buenos Aires & experience the passion of the Argentine Tango at an evening at one of the city’s most unique tango performances.

Around 05.30 pm, you will be met by a Journeys Rep / Driver, who will accompany you to an unforgettable Tango Show performed by the best dancers & singers, while you enjoy a delicious meal. This is the perfect way to discover Buenos Aires, the city of Tango.

Legend has it that Tango developed in the brothels & backstreets of Buenos Aires' port districts. Today, the passionate dance form is on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

Head to the cobblestone streets of San Telmo (you were there in the morning during your tour), the birthplace of Tango & the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires.

Arrive at a Conventillo, a restored historic tenement & now used as a restaurant-theater, where La Ventana takes place. As you stroll through the theater’s preserved architectural interior, travel back in time to the Tango grandeur of the early 1900s. The intimate setting of the theater creates a special atmosphere for this intense and sensual live Tango show with professional dancers, incredible wardrobe, male and female singers & live tango orchestras.

Throughout the 3 hour Dinner & Show, taste the flavors of a traditional Argentine meal featuring a wide array of Argentine & international dishes, accompanied by Argentine wines (wines - direct payment) & then watch the choreographed drama unfold before your eyes. The cabaret-style atmosphere allows you to feel like you are right in the middle of the action with the tuxedo-clad performers, honey-voiced vocalists & sensual dancers.

2 Tango orchestras & an Argentine Folk Music group provide live accompaniment to the 5 smartly costumed couples on stage, who grace the stage with sensuality & breathtaking precision. Listen to both Spanish & indigenous styles of music from the bands as well as vocalists.

Get a glimpse of the gaucho culture, or Argentina’s version of cowboys, through a demonstration of boleadoras, used to wrangle livestock.

After the show closes with a moving tribute to Eva Peron, your Driver takes you back to the hotel,

Morning, meet the Tour-guide, a qualified historian, at 10.00 am & embark on a 3 hour walking tour designed for the folks with an intellectual bend. The curated literature tour forms the genesis of modern Argentine literature, in following the footsteps of some of Argentina’s biggest hitters.

Argentina has a long literary tradition, and some of the world’s foremost authors have come out of the Southern Cone. BA is a haven for lovers of literature. Garnering fame internationally in 2015 when The Guardian reported that it had more bookshops per person than any other city in the world, the capital & its plethora of bookshops make for a fascinating visit for bookworms.

The tour follows a ‘few’ of the Literary giants of who made the city their home. Step into the worlds of Jorge Luis Borges, Julio Cortazar, Ernesto Sabato & discover the creative heart of Buenos Aires.

Learn about BA’s unique literary heritage as you visit the writers’ former homes, the locations that inspired famous novels & the iconic cafes & bohemian hangouts where poets & writers would converge.

Stop at "London City" on Avenida de Mayo between Peru street & May Avenue, right in the heart of Buenos Aires. Since 1954, the Cafe was a refuge for poets, artists, politicians who walked from the Municipal Palace to the adjacent Deliberative Council building. Journalists frequented the neighboring building of the newspaper La Prensa and portenos (as the locals are known) worked in the business establishments along the beautiful Avenida de Mayo. The iconic Cafe which still exists was immortalised when Argentine writer Julio Cortazar wrote his novel "Los Premios", which states on its first page "It was in the London of Peru & Avenida…..”

Walk 5 minutes to Cafe Tortoni in the Monserrat neighborhood, with an imposing façade by architect Alejandro Christophersen, that overlooks Avenida de Mayo. The notable Bar is one of the oldest in the city. Its marble tables & walls are an important part of the history of Buenos Aires. Its first owner was a French immigrant who baptized it in honor of the famous Cafe Tortoni in Paris. It is still a favoured haunt of literary crowd as its most prominent regulars were the writers Jorge Luis Borges, Luigi Pirandello, Federico Garcia Lorca & Julio Cortazar, as well as the musicians Arthur Rubinstein & the mythical Carlos Gardel.

Next stop is Plaza San Martin. Jorge Luis Borges loved to walk around BA & the Square was one of his favorite places. Borges mentioned La Plaza San Martín in his first book, “Fervor de Buenos Aires”, in 1923. In the poem, he writs "How good is the afternoon from the easy repose of the banks. Down below the port yearns for distant latitudes & the deep equalizing place of souls opens like death, like the dream". That still existing port he saw in the 20s from the elevation of Plaza San Martin, is not visible now.

Walk to La Biela cafe. When it opened its doors as a small terrace cafe in 1850, it was named "La Veredita", but later changed its name to the Aeroclub Bar, due to its popularity among the members of the nearby Civil Association of Argentine Pilots. La Biela acquired its current name in 1950, at the beginning of fashion motorsport, when it became a favoured haunt of the race car drivers & aficionados. Notice the old black & white photos of car racing champions. Behind the Bar, there are photographs taken by the Argentine writer Adolfo Bioy Casares, who was one of those who used to frequent the Cafe with his friend writer Jorge Luis Borges & who took these photographs to illustrate a book they wrote together. When tourists enter the traditional Cafe, they can see life-size figures of both literary giants seated at one of the tables near the entrance.

Next stop is Biblioteca Nacional, the most important library in the country, set up in 1810 in the Cabildo of Buenos Aires & later moved to Recoleta. Writer Jorge Luis Borges held the position of Director from 1955 to 1973. During his administration, the construction of a new headquarters (the present location) was promoted.

Final stop will be Plazoleta Julio Cortazar. Originally known as Plaza Serrano, this Square witnessed the cultural growth of the Palermo neighborhood during the 1980s. The neighborhood, known for being the epicenter of a Bohemian explosion in the city, is still home to writers, painters, philosophers & psycho-analysts. Among its most illustrious members was Jorge Luis Borges, who dedicated several of his works to the neighborhood of Palermo, where he lived for years. In 1994, the City decided to rename the Square as Julio Cortazar Square, in honor of another renowned Argentine writer who also made reference to this place in some of his stories, such as "Simulacros".

Jorge Luis Borges, immortalised on an Argentine coin, is not only Argentina’s most well known author, but one of the foremost protagonists of Spanish-language literature in general. He has been credited with creating the literary genre “magical realism”, of which famed Colombian writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez was also a proponent. His works deal with metaphysical spaces like fantastical libraries & labyrinths & also philosophy & religion, inspiring a legion of writers who are drawn to his idiosyncratic style. Check out Labyrinths, a collection of fiction short stories & non-fiction essays for an introduction to this famous Argentine author.

Julio Cortazar was one of the most important authors to come out of Argentina in the 1960s & 70s, forming part of what was known as the Latin American Boom, a period of literary richness in the southern continent. Influenced by Borges, Cortazar was a master of both the short story & the novel & his works have been the basis of a number of films made by influential filmmakers, such as Jean-Luc Goddard’s 1967 film Week End.

The tour ends & you walk back to the hotel on your own. Balance of the afternoon is at leisure.

People who are really hooked on, may want to visit a couple of iconic Bookshops.

The daddy of all of BA’s many bookshops, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is located in a former theatre & has maintained all the charm of this prestigious venue, coupled with the allure of aisles & aisles of books. Have a coffee on the stage or find a comfortable nook in one of the theatre boxes on the first floor for the full Ateneo experience.

Another one is Librosref located near a picturesque corner in Palermo & the building itself is a delight to be in. With a carefully curated selection of books, both new, old & rare editions, Librosref stands out because of the informed staff & the friendly, literary atmosphere. Give yourself some time to browse here, you won’t want to leave.

Walrus Books situated in a quaint, wood panelled building in BA’s San Telmo neighbourhood. is the city’s only fully English-language bookshop. They also run a number of literary workshops, from creative writing classes to feminist literature reading groups & short story study courses.

Every April, Latin America’s biggest book fair - Feria del Libro - takes place here & its 2 weeks of presentations, talks, workshops, readings & of course, book sales are a must for anyone with even a passing interest in books & literature. Argentina’s biggest names in writing, publishing & reading are in attendance.

Evening, get ready for an exciting experience, the raison d'être for this journey to the land of Tango.

Meet the Journeys Rep & proceed to a Milonga (places whereTango is danced) which offers an integral service of classes, dance & shows.

Once a furtive dance relegated to the red-light brothels of early 1900s Buenos Aires, Tango has experienced great highs & lows throughout its lifespan. Legions of European immigrants, mostly lower-class men, arrived here to seek their fortune & settled on the capital’s fringes in areas of La Boca & Barracas. Missing their motherlands & the women they left behind, they sought out Cafes & Bordellos to ease the loneliness. Here (so the myth goes), these immigrant men danced with each other while they waited for their paramours to become available - women were scarce back then!

These days, however, the sensual dance is back with a vengeance. Tango is not just a "dance for old people" or a show & it has evolved quite a bit in the last few years. Everyone from Seattle to Shanghai is slinking their way down the parquet floor, trying to master those elusive dance steps & the rhythm that make it so damn hard to perfect. Tango is a party that is celebrated among friends in a tradition highlighted by the new tango generation. Tango’s popularity is booming at both amateur & professional levels and among all ages & classes.

BA has many Milongas, scattered around the various neighborhoods, where Circuits are organized (a different Milonga opens every night of the week).

Forget about the stereotyped man in a suit & hair gel, the nostalgic look & the woman in a slash dress. Today, gender does not determine anything & roles can be reversed in the middle of the dance. Nowadays, there are Milongas where the woman leads the man & others where the man leads the man. Or ones with women wearing slippers & men wearing high heels!

You will participate in a 2 hour Tango class with experienced bilingual teachers. The  environment is conducive to learning & classes are created to meet the needs of different Tango levels - beginners, intermediate & advance.

The atmosphere at these venues can be modern or historical, casual or traditional. Most have Tango DJs that determine musical selections, but a few utilize live Orchestras. The dance floor is surrounded by many tables & chairs and there is often a Bar to the side.

At a proper, established Milonga, choosing an adequate partner involves many levels of hidden codes, rules & signals that dancers must follow. After all, no serious Bailarina (female dancer; the male equivalent is a bailarin) wants to be caught out dancing with someone stepping on her toes (& expensive tango heels).

However, for those who are just starting out or taking lessons, it is not necessary to go in pairs or to have experience. They will learn the Dance from the first steps or interact with others ‘seniors’ to perfect the steps. The crowd is varied & both Argentineans & foreigners are perfectly integrated.

It is advisable, though not mandatory any more, to go to a Tango shoe store to pick the right shoe (we can make the arrangements, if required).

3 – 5 songs make a Session (known as Tandas) that alternate between Tango & Vals (the Argentine version of the waltz) & Milonga; they are followed by a Cortina (a short break when non-tango music is played). It is considered polite to dance an entire Tanda with any partner, so if you are given a curt gracias after just one song, consider that partner unavailable for the rest of the night.

So why is it that Tango becomes so addictive for some, like an insidious drug? You will live the true feeling of Tango, a perfect & balanced union of music, dance, images & passion that this unique experience contains.

Experienced dancers will tell you that the adrenaline rush you get from an excellent performance is like a successful conquest. Some days it lifts you up to exhilarating heights & other days it can bring you crashing down. You fall for the passion & beauty of Tango’s movements, trying to attain a physical perfection that can never be fully realized. The best you can do is to make the journey as graceful & passionate as possible.

Enjoy Dinner after the Class finishes.

Transfer back to the hotel.

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 09.00 am & embark on a 4 hour Tango tour that will provide insights into the origin of Tango.

Tango & Buenos Aires are synonymous & intrinsically linked. Today we walk along the neighbourhoods that gave rise to the tango, and we go into details that helps us to understand why UNESCO declared it an Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Our tour takes us around some of the neighbourhoods where the Tango was developed: La Boca, mentioned as the birthplace of the Tango influenced by European immigrants. San Telmo, where it expanded in bars such as Bar Sur, the first Tango show & the corner of El Viejo Almacen, considered the Temple of the Tango that was declared as City Heritage. Boedo & Almagro, birthplace of many characters & the Bars which played a pivotal role in the evolution of Tango.

Immerse yourself in the "Tango of Buenos Aires", in the neighbourhoods of the city & in the "Berretín" as you see the places where Tango has left its mark, including house where the great Tango maestro, Carlos Gardel, lived & composed his music.   

First stop will be at the legendary Abasto neighborhood, the very origin of Tango.

While Abasto is not known as an "official" neighborhood in Buenos Aires map - it belongs to Balvanera -, an unassuming area. But scratch the surface just a little bit & you will discover a pocket of the capital that speaks volumes about the city’s culture, past & present.

Synonymous with Tango par excellence, every corner retains the air of the early 20^th century as reflected in the colorful houses & tenements that still exist; in homemade bars, where music & dancing are scurry & in small theaters spread in the corners. Inside Abasto lies the spirit of Argentina, bubbling with passion, chaos, music & an energy that pulses like the heartbeat of the city.  If you just go through its streets & its history, surely you will feel surprised.

Abasto gets its name from the monumental building that defines its core, a huge Art Deco structure that was formerly Mercado de Abasto Proveedor (or the city’s central fruit & veg market). Opened in 1934, for nearly 100 years the Abasto was a symbol of progress & technology in a city that was experiencing rapid growth in both population & size. But in 1984, the Market’s central location had become problematic & it was moved to the outskirts of the city. The urban monolith was essentially abandoned until it was reincarnated as a Shopping Center in 1999.

Although Abasto may not be the ‘happening’ hotspot that is Palermo, it can hold its own in terms of drinking, dining & dancing. While Tango may have been born in La Boca, it came of age in Abasto. This is thanks to the poster boy of Tango, Carlos Gardel, also known as “El Morocho del Abasto” (“the dark-haired guy from Abasto”). It is impossible to turn a corner, without some mention of its most famous resident who, although reportedly born in France, was raised in this neighborhood.

The Subway station is named after him, as is one of the city’s most well-known Tango shows, Esquina Carlos Gardel & his image is plastered around the many bars & restaurants in the area.

Although technically in the adjacent neighborhood of Almagro, the Milonga La Catedral & the Bar El Boliche De Roberto are relics of a bygone era that are certainly inspired by Gardel. El Bandarin in Calle Guardia Vieja is an unmissable Bar notable (or heritage Bar) & the Musetta Cafe will make you feel like Borges or Hemingway, such is its laid-back literary feel.

For dancing, theater, music & art, the only place you need to know is the Konex, one of the city’s best cultural spaces. Loud & lively, Monday night’s Bomba del Tiempo, an improvised drum show, will get your blood pumping. Stick around after for the afro-beat street parties that happen on side streets around the Konex.

A predominantly Jewish neighborhood for many years, Abasto is now a lower & middle class area. The McDonald’s in the Abasto is kosher, perfect for anyone of the Jewish faith needing their fix of the golden arches. The go-to area for the best Peruvian or Chinese food the city has to offer, in abundance, a firm favorite with Argentines, Peruvians & foreigners in the know.

Another must see is "Paseo del Fileteado" created in homage to "Morocho del Abasto" (as Gardel was addressed by the locals) on the Jean Jaures 735 street (also called Carlos Gardel Passage) where its most famous resident maestro Carlos Gardel lived with his mother.

Fillet Paseo sector in Abasto neighborhood displays streets decorated with colorfully ‘threaded’ early 20^th century Buenos Aires houses.

Graffiti folk art of Filleting, now a national heritage, emerged with immigration from Europe early last century & was initially used as advertising on cars of dairy farmers & grocers & later applied on bigger trucks. The technique uses a durable synthetic enamel brightly colored paint.

The tableau is divided into figures & phrases: the figures are usually flowers & faces. The sentences are often ambiguous & typically, people would be scratching their head to understand what the advertiser is trying to say.

During the last military dictatorship in 1975, for some reason the government banned street art & it was confined to Galleries only. In 2004, however, it was declared a Cultural Heritage. The idea gained traction after the residents of the block, through a competition, chose 6 facades that would be sliced / painted by renowned artists of the country, recognizing the art that represents much of the architecture, decoration & traditions of the Argentinean Creole people. And Tango & Gardel is obviously the predominant theme of the displays.

Carlos Gardel was the greatest Tango Maestro of all time. Visit the house he lived in, that has been turned into a Museum where personal items & examples of his work showing the history & evolution of this genre, are displayed.

A few meters ahead, you will bump into Pasaje Zelaya, a street of cultural spaces. There is the Argentine Center of Blind Theater, only theater in the world where all the shows are developed in total darkness & every week, people come to enjoy & marvel at the performances conducted entirely by the visually disabled, an unforgettable & humbling experience. There is also the Cube theater & Pata de Ganso, a center for training, research & artistic production.  

You will see some of the haunts of Gardel & friends, major figures of the Argentine Tango heritage.

See the "El Progreso" & Cafe Tortoni & Cafe Los Angelitos Bars on Anchorena street, which he frequented. Or the canteen on Lavalle & Billinghurst where Astor Piazzolla used to eat. And a few blocks away, on Avenida Corrientes, is the house of Osvaldo Pugliese, brilliant pianist, conductor & composer

Lavalle Street features several boutiques, hidden treasures with touches of art & design - vintage clothing, retro, domestic & imported brands, decorative items, accessories & many curiosities.

In the corner stands a monument “Chanta Cuatro” erected in his name. And on weekends a “tanguería” (where Tango shows take place) called Esquina de Carlos becomes scene of street performances.

From here, continue walking to La Chacarita Cemetery to see the Tomb of Carlos Gardel & other important figures of tango, such as the best bandoneon player, Anibal Troilo & one of the best referents of Tango, Agustin Magaldi.

Then, walk to La Boca, originally a shipyard.  Every now & then, one finds a touristy neighbourhood that is really worth the visit & colourful La Boca is one such. The Italian dock workers who lived there were so poor that they built their houses using cast-away ship building materials such as planks & corrugated sheet metal. ... But there wasn't enough paint of the same color to cover an entire house, so the houses became colorful patchwork.

The old derelict working-class area received its colourful makeover in the 1950s, when a resident decided to clean up & reclaim the land. The area was known as "El Putin" (abbreviation of "bridge" in Genoese dialect) & until 1920, a train used to run to the outskirts of the city of La Plata, south of Buenos Aires.

He sought the help of the local artist, Benito Quinquela Martin, who named the cleaned 100 meters passage "Caminito" in honor of the famous 1926 Tango composed by Gabino Coria Penalosa & Juan de Dios Filiberto (the lyrics refer to a road in the province of La Rioja).

Later, additional works were contributed by other artists such as Luis Perlotti, Roberto Caputo, Juan Leona, Ricardo Sanchez & Julio Vergottini and in 1959, Caminito street was officially declared an Open Air Museum.

With technicolored buildings & Tango Studios galore, this vivacious working-class suburb has evolved into an artist colony & is a favorite among camera-toting tourists & local bohemian youth.

The centerpiece is the cobblestone strip, El Caminito (or little walkway) dotted with paintings & sculptures and surrounded by picturesque colorful "Conventillos" & typical houses, offering insights on Argentina’s culture.

Last stop will be San Telmo, one of BA's most attractive neighborhoods, with narrow cobbled streets & low-story colonial houses.

Full of charm & personality, this is where some of the first homes were built in the early years of the colony. This neighborhood was originally inhabited by the wealthiest families in BA until the 1871 yellow fever epidemic forced them to move north. These elaborate mansions then converted into Conventillos (tenement housing) for European immigrants.

Famous for its pastel-colored colonial-era edifices, it is among the most vibrant neighborhoods in the city. And despite having many of BA’s most historic buildings, the suburb is best known for its trendy & youthful vibe. Amid the melancholy of homesickness of the immigrants & the merging of musical traditions in the shared patios of the Conventillos, Tango music was born.

The cobblestone tree-lined streets, colonial architecture, busy plazas, open-air pop-up art galleries, street vendors, antiques dealers, late-night bars, raucous steakhouses & street murals lend old San Telmo a bohemian vibe.

There is the iconic San Telmo Market building inspired by La Boqueria de Barcelona, with 120 years of history, which originally housed only businesses of fruits, vegetables & meats. But in recent years it has been modernized & has become one of the tourist attractions in the neighborhood. Visitors can find antique shops, small cafes, wine bars & restaurants, co-existing with the food businesses of yesteryear. The Coffee Town stand serves different varieties of coffee from around the world. The Market Burguer offers delicious gourmet burgers & Je Suis Raclette is ideal for lovers of melted cheese.   

Hundreds of stalls set up shop every Sunday flea market along Calle Defensa & Plaza Dorrego & an average of 10,000 people pour through the streets, looking for bargains on costume jewelry, handmade lace or copper pots. There are street performers attracting tourists.

The leafy walkways & tranquil ponds amongst the charming landscaped gardens around tall jacaranda trees in Parque Lezama make it a lovely spot for a stroll. Named after a wealthy family who donated it to the city in 1894.

If time permits you may walk inside Museo Historico Nacional housed in a salmon-pink colonial Mansion along the shady Parque Lezama. The Museum offers a comprehensive look through the country’s history. From pre-Hispanic Andean groups, to Spanish colonization & independence and through the series of 20^th century military dictatorships.

The 18^th century Convento de Santo Domingo has been a central building in Buenos Aires’ history. It was under siege during the British invasions of the early 19^th century & was used as a Museum when the Dominican orders were expelled about 20 years later. It now houses the Tomb of Manuel Belgrano, one of the country’s national heroes of independence.

Another tourist attraction in San Telmo are the El Zanjon de Granados tunnels. Years ago, when construction crews were excavating under an 1830s Mansion in the heart of San Telmo. They uncovered a zanjon, or ravine, running underground for blocks. It revealed an archaeological maze of centuries old tunnels & ruins, dating back to Buenos Aires’ early foundations. It is possible to explore the sub-terranean waterways & learn about the immigrant families who lived in the house after the wealthy owners departed.

There is also the stunning Russian Orthodox Church with its striking blue roof, made with materials shipped over from Saint Petersburg.

The sightseeing ends & you return to the hotel.

Balance of the afternoon at leisure to relax or for independent exploration.

Evening, accompanied by the Journeys Rep, proceed to a different Milonga for another set of Tango lessons. Learn the steps & traditions of this rhythm from a professional Instructor who will adapt to the level you need.

It is curious that the same place can work different Milongas according to the day of the week, organized by different groups. The atmosphere, the music & the audience could be completely different from one day to the next.

Dinner after the lessons.

Transfer back to the hotel.

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 09.00 am & embark on another walking tour to discover some more.

Visit Teatro Colon, the leading Opera House in BA, as well as an architectural landmark, known for its remarkably restored 19^th century interiors.

The Colon operated in its first venue from 1857 until 1888, after which the building was closed for the construction of a new house. The new venue opened on May 25^th in1908 with a performance of Aida. Many Opera maestros such as Maria Callas, Placido Domingo & Luciano Pavarotti, dancers such as Vaslav Nijinski, Mijail Barishnikov, among dozens of others have performed here.

Legendary Colon has secrets in every corner & is an integral part of Argentine & world culture. Absorb amazing details about the acoustics, history, architecture, staircases, sculptures, ceilings or vitreaux as you explore the Main Hall, the Foyer, Bustos Gallery & the magnificent Golden Hall

The Foyer, the high ceiling entrance hall is dominated by an honor staircase with marbles of different colors & crowned by French stained glass. Main Auditorium is probably the most important hall in the country, famous throughout the world for its acoustics & decorative richness. Most of the relevant personalities of lyric, ballet & music have passed through its stage. Richly decorated in French style, the Golden Hall is a permanent center for concert chamber music, conferences & parallel exhibitions.

The 50 minutes tour finishes & you embark on another discovery, retracing the life of another iconic Argentinean figure.

Eva Peron, known more affectionately as Evita, is a global historical & cultural icon. Over the course of her short life, she became loved by the masses & was a champion of women’s & workers’ rights.

Be inspired by the legend of one of Argentina’s most beloved icons - Eva Peron or Evita, on this 3-hour private history tour of Buenos Aires. Listen to her famous speeches at the Evita Museum & learn about her early life, her rise to prominence & the Peronism political movement, fronted by her husband Juan Domingo Peron. Visit iconic Casa Rosada where she famously addressed the people from the balcony & see the filming locations for Madonna’s 1996 movie Evita, then pay your respects at her Tomb in Recoleta Cemetery.

First stop will be at Casa Rosada - the seat of the Executive Power of the Argentine Republic, in front of the historic Plaza de Mayo in Monserrat.

The pink building is considered one of the most emblematic in Buenos Aires & it houses the office of the President of Argentina. Inside, one can find the "Eva Peron Room", that was used by Eva as one of her offices when she presided over the foundation that bears her name. Photographs are shown that show some highlights of Eva's life & a cap that she wore at the 1949 Youth Championships. There is also the Museum of the House of Government, which displays objects related to various Presidents of the country. Yes, you may step out on the balcony from where the Perons really did address their devoted throngs in the late 1940s & early ‘50s.  

After spending 15 minutes inside, walk on to the Luna Park Stadium where young Evita, who had moved from the country to Buenos Aires to become an actress, met Colonel Juan Domingo Peron at a charity gala on January 22, 1944, to raise money for the victims of an earthquake in San Juan. Today, the Stadium is a popular Concert & Events venue situated close to the Kirchner Cultural Center, inaugurated by ex-President Cristina Kirchner, who is considered by some to be akin to a modern-day Evita. due to her social upliftment programs. 

Stop at Museo Evita inaugurated in 2002 to commemorate the 50^th anniversary of the death of Eva Peron.

Evita’s skill at connecting with the poor went hand-in-hand with her great talent for irking the wealthy. A case in point: her decision to turn a beautiful Italian renaissance Mansion in a then-ritzy corner of the Palermo neighborhood into Shelter for Homeless Women & Children, started by her in 1948, makes it all the more fitting that her own Museum should be located here. Those women were evicted following Juan Peron’s ouster from office in 1955, but in 2002, the building was re-opened as Museo Evita.

The Museum has a magnificent exhibition that illustrates the intense life of Evita in an entertaining & interesting way, a journey through the history of Eva Peron using photographs, videos & documents of the time in chronological order of her rise from humble beginnings, her work on behalf of the poor & women, her famous “Rainbow Tour” of Europe in 1947 & her eventual sickness & early death at 33. There is a wealth of paraphernalia & memorabilia & even some of her personal possessions, including clothes. Visitors are transported into the past to visualise Argentina of that time & the context in which Evita evolved since childhood to her meeting Peron & the beginning of her social acts after becoming First Lady.

After spending time at the Museum, continue on & snap a couple of photos at the Monumento a Eva Peron located in the Plaza on Avenida del Libertador between Aguero & Austria, on the premises of Biblioteca Nacionalhe (National Library).  

The site used to be the former residence of President Juan Peron & the First Lady. This was where she lived out her last days in a battle with cancer & where she eventually died in 1952.  The Unzue Palace spread over 3 city blocks, became something of lore following the military coup that ousted Peron from power in 1955 (3 years after her death). The new regime had the couple’s home demolished as part of an effort to eradicate all traces of Peronism. It was only in 1999, following decades of disorder & dictatorship, that an official monument was erected to commemorate Evita in the Park next to the library. The large bronze Statue eschews glamour, depicting Evita striding forward while barefoot, as befits a woman of the people.

Next stop will be Facultad de Ingenieria of the University of Buenos Aires. One of the few Evita-related buildings allowed to remain standing after Juan Peron was exiled, is this columned hulk along Paseo Colon on the east side of the city. It was once the headquarters of La Fundacion Eva Peron, a charity established in 1948 by Eva to help the underprivileged where it operated for 7 years. Nowadays, the Doric style building, considered a National Historic Monument, is used by the Engineering Department but bears almost no signs of its former purpose, aside from a Plaque in the lobby. Visitors can pop in for a quick look but are asked to avoid disturbing Faculty & Students.

Next will be the famous Cemiterio de Recoleta containing the Tombs of many outstanding personalities of the country ensconced in numerous imposing Mausoleums & Vaults adorned with marbles & sculptures.  

Its architectural value is a sample of the times when Argentina was an emerging economic power in the late 19^th century & the wealthiest families of the city began moving to the Recoleta area & building splendid Pantheons in the Cemetery.

Buenos Aires’ most famous graveyard is the final resting place of Eva Peron. Although, this wasn’t always the case. Most people slow down after they die, but Evita has had a remarkably active afterlife. In response to her death from cancer in 1952, a lavish outpouring of grief clogged the streets of BA with truckloads of flowers & millions of mourners lamenting the loss of their “Santa Evita”.

Her embalmed body was put on display at the Confederacion General del Trabajo (Ministry of Labor), outside which Argentines queued for 2 weeks to see her body, such was the grief felt by the populace.

Her body remained in her office for almost 2 years while they planned to construct a monument to her, before the military overthrew Peron & exiled to Spain, at which point her body disappeared.

For the better part of the next 2 decades, Evita’s body was schlepped to Italy, Spain & who knows where else, while Argentina’s military leaders tried to make the population forget the Perons ever existed. It didn’t work - Peron returned to office in 1973 (though he died the next year). 

For 16 years, the whereabouts of her remains were unknown, until in 1971 it was discovered that her body was in Milan. It was flown to Spain, where it sat in Juan Peron’s living room of the house he shared with his then wife Isabel. The remains were brought back to Buenos Aires by Peron & were finally interred in a heavily fortified Duarte family crypt 16 feet underground in Recoleta Cemetery, the city’s elegant necropolis containing the very oligarchs the Perons had despised.

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The 30s art deco Duarte family vault, with a carved bronze door depicting flowers & leaves that serve as a background to a Latin cross, was opened to receive Maria Eva Duarte de Peron, in 1974 when her remains were repatriated from Spain.

The tour ends & you return to the hotel

Balance of the afternoon at leisure to relax or for independent exploration.

Evening, accompanied by the Journeys Rep, proceed to a different Milonga for another set of Tango lessons. Learn the steps of Tango from a professional Instructor who will adapt to the level you need.

It is curious that the same place can work different Milongas according to the day of the week, organized by different groups. The atmosphere, the music & the audience could be completely different from one day to the next. Join local tango enthusiasts at 2 different Milongas & see talented dancers displaying their skills. Practice what you have learned while merging with the locals on the dance floor.

Dinner after the lessons.

Transfer back to the hotel.

Today, we have planned for you to experience another cultural aspect of Argentina. Meet the Journeys Rep at 08.00 am & embark on a full day excursion to meet the Gauchos in their traditional surroundings in an Estancia (ranch).

Perhaps the most popular enduring image of Argentina, of national icons, their lives retold in stories & legends, is that of the Gaucho, the country's larger than life cowboy riding the endless plains & pampas, who is a master of horsemanship & at the same time, commanding a wealth of rural traditions & tenaciously true his code of honor. Just as the United States had its cowboy & Mexico its charro - both nearly extinct now - Argentina was & still is home to the Gaucho. What passes for myth in the United States is very much reality in Argentina.

While most Gauchos now live more settled lives today & you may see a Gaucho using a cell phone & (on the largest Estancias) even a GPS, but they remain absolute masters of the horse & the rope as well & his way of life reflect this symbiotic relationship. Many of the traditions remain intact & their distinctive dress - which incorporates items that are originally based on designs from as far away as England & Turkey - makes them instantly recognizable. There is an entire genre of dances, folktales, songs & words exclusive to the Gaucho culture alone & their cultural contribution to Argentina is enormous.

Gauchos initially roamed all of not only Argentina, but also much of Brazil & Uruguay. Their numbers have declined over the last several decades & the exact number is unknown. But throughout the length & breadth of the country, thousands of these horsemen still practice a way of life that bear a great deal of resemblance to what it was hundreds of years ago. They continue to play a vital role in Argentina’s cultural & economic life, even seen as the symbol of the nation. So powerful & feared were the first Gauchos that they often were used by the government as a means of keeping order in the rural provinces instead of the army.

A visit to an Estancia allows visitors a first-hand look at just how talented these legendary outdoorsmen are. A Gaucho's exploits on horseback literally must be seen to be believed: horse & rider act as one seamless & graceful being and their roping skills are considered the best anywhere in the world.

There is a lot of nothingness here. Little grows in the harsh climactic conditions of the steppe, a desolate region of bunch grasses, emptiness & howling winds. Only the lonely Estancias & forgotten villages dot the expansive landscape & the still largely untouched land is a great place for eco-tourism adventures.

These enormous Ranches dotting the entire countryside, play a huge part in Argentina's culture, economy & history. In the early days these establishments were responsible for making Argentina one of the biggest meat & grain producers in the world. The best steaks in the world come from here & for Argentines, superlative beef is not just a pastime but a national obsession, with more than 50 different cuts of meat that are offered in many city restaurants. The Estancias are completely self-sufficient with their own Tea House, Nursery, Stables, Dairy, Slaughterhouse, Mill & Chicken Farm.

Most Estancias are over 200 years old & still maintain a daily way of life that is firmly grounded in traditional practices & values. The elegant & historic restored colonial Mansions overlooking vast expanses of countryside where cattle, sheep, goats & horses graze, are in a combination of French, English architectural styles with the main residence usually having been converted to receive guests. It is also common to see a group of people at a camp-fire playing the guitar in the evenings & even a Tango show. If you know Spanish & can hold a tune, expect to be asked to join in!

Estancias are also known for their excellent cooking, especially when it comes to Asado, traditional Argentine barbeque, which usually means fresh local meats of lamb & beef with vegetables from the garden, empanadas (stuffed bread or pastry) & plenty of other local specialties, which often include dishes for which Argentina is not as well known for such as finest freshwater fish offerings. Some Chefs may even let you in on their recipes.

Guests have the opportunity to participate in life on the working Ranch to varying degrees & to experience the unique Gaucho culture in a tranquil & beautiful setting of untamed countryside. In some cases, you may help in the sheep, cattle & horse enclosures and may even go along for the round up or help with the cattle drive. It is typical to see a jaw-dropping taming or a horse show arranged on a daily basis, as well as impromptu ones staged out in the fields during the cattle drives.

With its array of different ecosystems & beautiful, wide-open countryside, the grounds are perfect for day outings on horseback, foot or bike. There is usually a full realm of activities including swimming pools, tennis courts, gardens, canoeing fishing on the lake & photo safaris.

And finally, the day comes to an end & you transfer back to the hotel by 06.00 pm.

Balance of the evening is at leisure (we will be happy to offer suggestions & make arrangements if you want to paint the town red on your last evening here).

Alas, like all good things, the wonderful experience comes to an end & it is time to say good-bye to Buenos Aires. But, we sure hope that after this glimpse, you may want to discover a little bit more of the Argentine Culture, practice your Tango & discover Argentina’s vast natural wonderland on your next visit.

Check-out of the hotel by 11:00 am (if the departure time is later in the evening, we will request the hotel to allow the usage of the facilities & to leave the luggage at the Bell Desk). 

“Travel is like knowledge. The more you see the more you know you have not seen” - Mark Hertsgaard

In time, you will be met by a Journeys Rep, who will ensure your comfort & obtain your feedback about the arrangements for the tour. 

The iconic Journey comes to an end and it is time to go home. You will be transferred to Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport for your onward journey.   B

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