Welcome to Enchanting Journeys

Welcome to incredible Azerbaijan - a tangle of contradictions & contrasts, billing itself as the 'Land of Fire’.  Neither Europe nor Asia, it' is a nexus of ancient historical empires, but also a ‘new’ nation which has undergone an extraordinary transformation from the war-ravaged post-Soviet 1990s to an oil-enriched host of Formula 1 & Europa League football.                       

Arrive in cosmopolitan capital, Baku, the gateway to an ancient world capital city.

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Baku Heydar Aliyev International Airport, subsequent to  Immigration & Customs, you will be welcomed by The Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the hotel, help you settle in & provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for the next couple of days.

Reach the hotel & Check-in.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’.

Breathtaking Antiquity | Architectural Masterpieces | Soviet Reminiscence

Azerbaijan’s capital, the port city of Baku with its UNESCO World Heritage listed medieval Old City (İçəri Şəhər) contrasting with dazzling 21^st century architecture, lies on a balmy bay of the Caspian Sea.

Baku is the cultural & commercial hub of the country and is denoted as an architectural love child of Paris & Dubai…albeit with plenty of Soviet genes floating half-hidden in the background. Few cities in the world are changing as quickly and nowhere else in Eurasia do East & West blend as seamlessly or as chaotically. Yet barely 3 hours’ drive away, timeless rural villages lie amid lush orchards backed by the soaring Great Caucasus Mountains.

At its heart, the medieval Old City lies within an exotically crenelated arc of fortress wall & which contains the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, a vast royal complex & the iconic stone Maiden Tower.  

Around this, are gracefully illuminated stone mansions & pedestrianised tree-lined streets filled with exclusive boutiques. In the last decade, countless towers have mushroomed, dwarfing or replacing tatty old Soviet apartment blocks. Some of the finest new builds are jaw-dropping masterpieces. Contemporary landmarks include the Zaha Hadid - designed Heydar Aliyev Center & the Flame Towers - 3 pointed skyscrapers covered with LED screens.

Meanwhile romantic couples canoodle their way around wooded parks & hold hands on the Caspian-front bulvar (promenade), where greens & opal blues make a mockery of Baku’s desert-ringed location.

Baku is the largest cultural centre of Azerbaijan. It is the place where a national theatre, the first in Muslim East, lifted the curtain, the first opera was performed, the first Azerbaijan newspaper was published, the first Azerbaijan library was opened. Today Baku is known to have 30 museums, 7 theatres, 11 institutions of higher education, philharmonic, opera theatre, film studio, cinema theatres & libraries housed in the city’s most beautiful buildings having an interior decoration which is every bit as good as their interior cultural content.

No services are envisaged today.

However, if time permits & you wish to explore independently, we shall be only too happy to offer suggestions.

Morning, meet your Tour-guide in the lobby at 09.00 am to proceed for a 8 hour sightseeing tour of the city.

With your knowledgeable, talkative, sociable Tour-guide explaining about the culture, history & other interesting facts about Baku, you will visit different parts of city relating to various historical periods starting from middle ages to modern era.

Start the tour with a panoramic view of Baku city & Baku Bay from Highland Park passing through Martyrs Alley; enjoying the marvelous view of the Flame Towers.

Visit the main historical side of Baku, stopping at the UNESCO World Heritage listed Old Town or Walled City. 

Walk along narrow small cobbled stone streets & stop at the 12^th century Maiden’s Tower & 14^th century Juma Mosque, 15^th century Shirvanshahs Palace described by UNESCO as "one of the pearls of Azerbaijan's architecture" & the Silk Route Caravanserai complexes – Bukhara & Multan.

The Shirvanshahs Palace is one of the oldest & most fascinating monuments of Azerbaijan architecture, which belongs to the rulers of Shirvan. The Palace ensemble has attracted the attention of researchers throughout the country, because of its unique 2 story structure occupying a reasonably large space, quite simple in architectural design.

This splendid confection of sandstone walls & domes was the seat of northeastern Azerbaijan’s ruling dynasty during the Middle Ages. Mostly 15^th century, it was painstakingly (over)restored in 2003 with artefacts adding interest plus one or two entertaining Audiovisual surprises.

You will enter via the main ceremonial courtyard. A small gateway on the left leads into the courtyard of the 1428 Divanxanə, an open-sided, octagonal rotunda where Shirvanshah Khalilullah I once assembled his court: a decidedly small court it would seem, judging from the structure’s diminutive size. Amazingly, the beautiful complex beside the palace includes some Museums as well as the Bath, Mausoleum of court scholar Seyid Yahya Bakuvi, 14^th century Caravanserais, Mosques, Baths & the market square.

You may go up rooftop cafe - Floors & buy a drink or climb to the 'secret' rooftop of the Artım Art space to get a bird’s eye view.

Maiden's Tower (Giz Qalasi) is a mysterious & eccentric tower built between 7^th & 12^th centuries and may have served as a fire beacon, defensive fortification, astronomical observatory, or Zoroastrian temple. Inside the Tower at each level, an extensive & well set permanent Exhibition describes the history & myths related to the tower.

Break for lunch (not included - direct payment). You will not want to miss the chance to taste delicious, mouth-watering, traditional ethnic food in the authentic restaurants - Kebabs, Gutabs, Pastry etc.

Post lunch, you will pass by National Flag Square which ‘was’ home to the world's second tallest Flagpole, according to the Guinness Book of Records. In September 2010, the world's tallest Flagpole (then 162m) was installed at the Bulvar's southern tip. The world record was later snatched by Dushanbe, Tajikistan, then Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. In 2018 it was removed but there are rumours that it will return taller than ever in 2020.

You can stroll around but not climb the huge base-mound. The area is pleasant for gentle bicycle rides for anyone interested (rental agents available near the Caspian Waterfront Mall).

Visit Government House, Old City Hall & Magomayev Azerbaijan State Philharmonic Hall - built in 1912 & inspired by the Monte Carlo Casino (which held the first casino in the Caucasus before being transformed to its current usage) housing the Azerbaijan State Symphony Orchestra amongst others

Stop at the "Governor's garden" & drive by Fountain Square - a tony area filled with the 19^th century mansions of the ‘old money’ oil magnates, Opera House, Musical Theatre & National Library.

You will also have the opportunity to stop at the Bibi-Heybat Mosque, one of the major monuments of Islamic architecture in Azerbaijan. The existing structure, built in the 1990s, is a recreation of the mosque with the same name built in the 13^th century by Shirvanshah Farrukhzad II Ibn Ahsitan II, which was completely destroyed by the Bolsheviks in 1936. Today it is the spiritual centre for the Muslims of the region & the modern restored mosque is a classic example of the Shirvan architectural school, having 3 domes decorated with green & turquoise mirrors, which are bordered with gilded inscriptions from the Quran.

Drive along the seaside boulevard, passing by Upside Hill, Martyr's Alley, Turkish Alley, Flame Towers & enjoy the panoramic view of Baku. 

The sightseeing concludes & you are transferred back to the hotel (or you can continue exploring on your & return to the hotel on your own).

Museums are the gems of the country to show artefacts belonging to various periods of history & culture. Azerbaijan having 2000 years of recorded history has a lot of things to show its guests. In Baku, there are many Museums worth visiting, if time permits (or in your free time).

One of Baku's charming oddities, the small Museum of Miniature Books presents books that are so small you would need a magnifying glass to read the print. The fact that so many minuscule publications have been printed at all is a surprise & amassing the thousands shown here has been a lifetime's passion for collector Zərifə Salahova who started the place in 2002.

Another interesting one is Museum Centre in a column-fronted neoclassical building has a sternly photogenic facade that looks best seen from across the Bulvar. Once a Lenin Museum, the top floor holds changing exhibitions, often good & usually free. The somewhat sparse 2^nd floor Museum of Musical Culture (AZN1) will teach you what it means to be a Tarzan in Azerbaijan. The 3^rd floor Museum of Independence (AZN5) gives a somewhat dry, if unashamedly partisan, political history of the nation.

Baku’s exclusive carpet shops & many souvenir markets offer a great variety of aesthetic choices from the minimalist to the lavish.

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 09.00 am & proceed on a full day tour to discover the cultural heritage of the erstwhile Silk Route.

First stop will be the giver the National Museum of History of Azerbaijan located in the former mansion of an Azerbaijani oil magnate, well-presented exhibits on Azerbaijan’s history & culture might miss the odd century here & there, but there is more than enough to fill several hours if you’re really interested.

Even if you are not a history buff, it is still worth a brief trot through to admire the opulent 1895 -1901 mansion of Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev, one of Baku’s greatest late 19^th century oil baron & philanthropist.

By visiting the Museum, you will see how the rich people of that time lived on as well. The Museum was restored recently & includes several interactive exhibits. Don't miss the dazzling neo-Moorish ‘Oriental Hall’ & Tagiyev's rebuilt art-nouveau bedroom.

Built in 1893 - 1902, the Italian Renaissance-style mansion is immense, taking up an entire city block & was designed by Polish architect Jozef Gosławski. There are 4 floors in some parts of the building.

On the 2^nd floor of Taghiyev's residence, side by side there are 2 major ballrooms. One is based on Oriental designs (Mauritanian) style & the other, on Occidental design. The Oriental Room has enormous plate glass windows, gilded arches, highly ornamental walls, ceilings & chandeliers. The lines in the Occidental Room are more perpendicular to each other - rectangular.

According to photographs that are about 90 years old, one of the most elaborate rooms was Taghiyev's wife's boudoir (private sitting room). All of the movable furniture & paintings in this room have disappeared. Nothing remains today except the ornate mirrored mosaic ceiling.

During the Soviet period, 4 layers of white paint were applied over the highly decorative floral designs on the walls. Still in the main Halls of the residence, the original paint has withstood the passage of time incredibly well. The paint was made of finely ground egg shell as was the practice of artists of Byzantine icons. Nearly 100 years later, the original colors with their subtlety & sophistication have neither faded nor chipped.

When the Red Army entered Baku in April 1920, Taghiyev's residence – like that of other wealthy oil barons – was immediately confiscated. Under a resolution of the USSR People's Commissariat, the residence was established as a Museum in June 1920, only 2 months after the Bolsheviks took Baku.

Azerbaijan History Museum is one of the oldest (& the largest) as well as biggest Museum. The collection & exhibits show the development of the material & spiritual culture, originals of the documents of political history & social-economic life of Azerbaijan from ancient times till nowadays.

Excavations were carried out in Khojaly, Qabala, Ganja, Kharaba Gilan, Orangala, Mingechevir & other places. The Museum’s collection consists of the materials discovered during these excavations & from other ethnographic expeditions. Undoubtedly, museum’s collection allows enriching data for a great many books & thesis.

Next stop will be the raison d’etre for this journey.

In the ancient world, carpet commerce along the famed Silk Road was valued by weight like precious metals. Floors, walls & ceilings, there is no surface carpets have not conquered. People have been rolling out the red carpet for special occasions since the Greeks used it to welcome home their Warriors two millennia ago.

Since traditional Azerbaijani carpet weaving was registered as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010, the practice has been enjoying renewed attention both from international consumers and the next generation of local artisans. Azerbaijan and its capital Baku are at the epicenter of the 21st century carpet renaissance.

Proceed to the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum to see the Azerbaijani carpets & rug items weaved in various periods of the history. Considered a treasury of Azerbaijan national culture, the Museum’s unique shape will attract your attention even from outside. Designed by the acclaimed Austrian architects Franz Janz & Walter Mari, the façade of the building looks like a rolled up carpet. The Museum features 3 floors full of handmade Carpets as well as applied art works, highlighting all areas of the Azerbaijani carpet making school. It was established for researching, keeping & displaying Carpets and the Museum has the largest collection of Azerbaijan carpets & thread-work samples in the world, of different weaving techniques & materials,

Carpet weaving in Azerbaijan appeared a long time ago: it is the oldest type of applied art in the region, a fact that has been proven by numerous archaeological findings from around the country.

It was a gifted carpet master, a National Artist of the Azerbaijan SSR Lyatif Kerimov, who first had the idea to make a Museum dedicated to carpets & restore the ancient sketches of Azerbaijani carpets, to keep alive the artistic traditions & transmit them to future generations, and to achieve due promotion of Azerbaijani carpets by organising their trade at international level. Thanks to his efforts, the first Museum specializing in the study & protection of Azerbaijan’s ancient carpets was opened.

It was originally housed at the historic Juma Mosque in the heart of Icheri Sheher (Old Town). After independence in 1992, it moved into a building formerly occupied by a Vladimir Lenin museum. Work to collect exhibits & items began in 1967 & in 1972, the rare exhibits were opened to public. The original location fits perfectly, as the ancient carpets perfectly complemented the interior of the old Mosque. In August 2014, the Museum was shifted to the spectacular new building, which itself is an architectural masterpiece in technical terms.

Ever since the beginning, the Museum housed not only carpets, but also other Azerbaijani art. Today, there are more than 14,000 exhibits, including rare carpets, exquisite jewelry, clothing, embroidery, delicate glass pieces, wood & felt. The 1^st floor of the Museum has flat-weave carpets & various examples of applied arts, including bags & saddles for horses. The 2^nd floor is pile carpets from different regions in Azerbaijan, showing off the unique patterns & designs of this country. The 3^rd floor is all about modern designers, the history of the Carpet Museum & a children’s room.

The Azerbaijan Carpet Museum presents different schools & techniques from around the entire country, as well as covering various historical stages & the development of carpet weaving. Among some of the oldest exhibits are a rare spectacular Tabriz rug, called Ovchulug, & a Karabakh rug, the Dragon Carpet, both of which were woven in the 17^th century, as well as the Khila Afshan carpet, woven in the 18^th century in the village of Hila village of Azerbaijan. Along with the new exhibits, there is a group of rugs from the former Carpet Museum in Shusha.

Beyond just the exhibits, the people who work at the Museum work to preserve & popularize the ancient art of carpet weaving by holding discussions, workshops, exhibitions & symposiums, often with the support of UNESCO.

Pieces from the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum have been exhibited in more than 50 countries, on almost all the continents of the world. Today, the Museum is a large scientific study center that attracts researchers & art lovers from around the world.

In the Museum, you will have an opportunity to attend a master class & try carpet weaving together with the local artists.

See the in-house Carpet factory “Azer-Ilme”, where carpets are made by using the latest technologies. You will observe the entire process of carpet production including yarn dyeing, carpet weaving, carpet washing, drying & ironing. 

Also, there is an old carpet restoration department, where we will see how restorers, carefully restore very old carpets& rugs. Move on to the Museum carpet shop where you see & buy your favourite carpets & other handicrafts.

After the tour, you will be transferred back to your accommodation.

The tour concludes & you return back to the hotel to freshen up & relax for a while.

Evening, meet the Journeys Rep & embark on another exciting experience beyond Baku’s chic 21^st century facade, deep into the city’s underbelly.

Discover the hidden world of ‘once thriving’ Baku’s Pigeon keepers (Fanciers is the new name they prefer to use today). The hobby of raising birds is a famous pastime in Azerbaijan, especially on the rooftops of Baku.

Traditionally, it is the men of Baku who raise doves on the city's rooftops. From father to son, grandfather to grandson, the art of calling the birds home has been passed from generation to generation for centuries.

Pigeons have been kept domestically for millennia and for a multitude of reasons – for exhibiting, eating, racing & as recently as Second World War, they were famously used to send messages. The tradition of raising birds at home dates back centuries. Some Azerbaijani families have cared for birds at home for over a hundred years, passing the hobby on through the generations.  Until recently pigeon keeping was a popular pastime in the Azerbaijani capital & its nearby villages.

The hobby is dying as the face of the city changes, however. In addition, the tradition is falling out of favor as today men prefer to watch TV or surf the Internet in their spare time. One obvious reason for the gradual disappearance of this subculture from central parts of the city is the quickly changing urban environment & the economic factor as feeding, housing, guarding pigeons has become increasingly costly for the regular folks. But as young men are losing interest, a few women have started picking up the hobby, sparking a debate about who has the right to raise pigeons.  Azerbaijani mentality does not accept the idea of a woman climbing to the roof to whistle for birds.

Many Fanciers simply find harmony in the company of the birds and this is also true of Baku’s pigeon keepers. There was a time when every morning in the rays of the rising sun, one could see hundreds of pigeons fluttering in the sky, hearing the sounds of flapping wings in the suburban stillness & their owners sitting, usually, on the roofs of one & two storey houses. And there can’t have been any houses in Baku’s villages where pigeons weren’t kept. Even when moving each summer to the dacha they would take the Pigeons with them.

There is even an iconic local breed of pigeon called the Baku Tumbler which is renowned for its flying abilities, typically soaring so high as to disappear from sight, remain in the air for up to 8 hours, from time to time clicking its wings & performing acrobatic rolls. And then dutifully, coming back to the Keeper.

For some today, though, breeding pigeons is actually a business & a single bird can fetch anything between just a few manats & several hundred. There are pigeon lofts with alarms & even with guards. There is a weekly market where all the pigeon fanciers from all the surrounding villages.

From here, walk to Mugam Club, a restaurant in an old Caravanserai near the harbour & adjacent to the Maiden Tower.

Enjoy an exotic folk dance show as you enjoy a sumptuous dinner of traditional Azerbaijani kebab, plov, dushpere, qutab, qu-qu, as well as traditional sweets & beverages.

Return to the hotel.

Morning, meet your Tour-guide in the lobby at 09.00 am to proceed for a 8 hour excursion to Absheron Peninsula just outside the city, which boasts of several interesting sites (in contrast to the ‘scenic’ routes, the scenery along this route is fascinatingly ugly - a desert wasteland with white salt flats & natural oil pools seeping up to the surface).

Fist stop will be at Yanar Dag - meaning "fire-mountain" - on Azerbaijan's Absheron Peninsula.  A natural gas fire blazes continuously on a hillside & has burned continuously for 4,000 years" even in the rain, snow, wind. The tall flames jetting into the air 3 meters from a thin, porous sandstone layer, dance restlessly across a 10 meter stretch of hillside, making a hot day even hotter.

A side effect of the country's plentiful natural gas reserves, which sometimes leak to the surface, Yanar Dag is one of several spontaneously occurring fires to have fascinated & frightened travelers to Azerbaijan over the millennia.

Baku, over thousands of years, opened its gates to millions of people from different corners of the world & became a homeland for these ancient tribes & nations. Venetian explorer Marco Polo wrote of the mysterious phenomena when he passed through the country in the 13^th century. Other Silk Road merchants brought news of the flames as they would travel to other lands. Consequently, Azerbaijan earned the moniker the "land of fire".

At one time they played a key role in the ancient Zoroastrian religion, which was founded in Iran (in Azerbaijan was part of the Persian Empire) & flourished in the first millennium BCE. For Zoroastrians, fire is a link between humans & the supernatural world, and a medium through which spiritual insight & wisdom can be gained. They believe it is purifying, life-sustaining & a vital part of worship.

Arrive at the no-frills Yanar Dag visitors' Center for the spectacle rather than religious fulfillment. The experience is most impressive at night, or in winter. When snow falls, the flakes dissolve in the air without ever touching the ground. The beauty & power of nature appears in front of the people, looking at this magnificent process. After spending an hour here, you will realize the true reason of calling Azerbaijan “The Land of Fire"!

Move on to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage listed Baku Ateshgah, often called the "Fire Temple of Baku", an ancient, castle like temple complex once used as a Hindu, Zoroastrian & Sikh place of worship, based on Persian & Indian Sanskrit inscriptions supposedly carved between the 1668 & 1816 AD..

The region had immense importance for the trading because it fell on one of the most famous ‘Silk Road” trading routes which actually connects the West to the Indian Sub-continent through Central Asia.

The Baku Ateshgah was originally a place of worship, pilgrimage & philosophical centre for Zoroastrians. The 4 holy elements of their belief were: ateshi (fire), badi (air), abi (water) & heki (earth). The Temple was built over a pocket of natural gas that fuelled a vent providing an ‘eternal’ fire. This kind of use of fire in Zoroastrian temples led to the followers of Zoroaster (Zarathustra).

The fortified pentagonal complex as seen today, which has a courtyard surrounded by cells for monks & a tetrapillar-altar in the middle, was built during the 17^th & 18^th centuries by Indian Shiva devotees, from Northwestern Indian Subcontinent, who were involved in trade with the Caspian area via the famous "Grand Trunk Road". It was abandoned in the late 19^th century, probably due to the dwindling of the Indian population in the area.

The natural eternal flame went out in 1969, after nearly a century of exploitation of petroleum & gas in the area, but is now lit by gas piped from the nearby city.

The Temple ceased to be a place of worship after 1883 with the installation of petroleum plants (industry) around the region.  The complex was turned into a Museum in 1975.

Return to the Baku by afternoon.

Another exciting ‘Silk Road’ experience awaits. .

Meet the Journeys Rep & proceed to one of Hammams (Public baths) that have been an important part of Azerbaijani life since the Middle Ages.

A place for cleansing & contemplation, for relaxation & conversation - a social institution where people got together, chatted, discussed issues & strike deals over tea & games of nard, the local version of backgammon. Women's hammams were a natural hunting ground for mothers eager to get a closer look at potential young brides. Long before the Soviets did away with religious conservatism.

Azerbaijan's old Hammam culture may have waned in recent years, but many of the city's older residents recall with nostalgia the weekly ritual of visiting the city's public baths. In the days of the shahs, the khans & even the Russian Empire, Hammams in Azerbaijan were about much more than just getting clean.

Azerbaijani cities in the Middle-ages were separated into small neighborhoods known as Mehelle & each one had its own Hammam & Mosque, catering to both the spiritual & physical needs of local Muslims.

In the days of the Silk Road, for example, a Hammam stood at both entrances of Baku's Old City & travelers could only enter after burning their old clothes & having a good scrub. Hammam culture dipped a little in Soviet times as apartments were increasingly fitted with their own baths & showers, but Hammam were / are still the first port of call whenever there was a water crisis.

Today there is still a loyal crowd of locals that can't live without a Hammam. In Azerbaijan, they are strictly segregated: Some are just for men, some for women & some for both but on different days. While this segregation rule has relaxed a little since the Middle Ages, mixed bathing is still a complete no-no.

Our Rep will explain the Dos & Don’ts & supply the towels, soap. flip-flops that patrons are supposed to bring.

There are a set of etiquette to be followed in different sections. There isn’t any time restriction on how long you possibly can spend in the Hammam, but 6 hours should be ample time to relax in the lounge, scrub, steam, massage, shower & finally drink tea, to complete the ritual. 

After the ‘treatment’, you will be transferred back to the hotel, completely rejuvenated.

Later in the evening / night, you might want to stroll around & click some ‘memorable’ photographs of the vast & jaw droppingly original iconic internationally recognized architectural work Haydar Aliyev Center, designed by the acclaimed Iraqi designer Zaha Hadid & noted for its distinctive architecture & the flowing, curved style that eschews sharp angles.

Confounding context, scale & materiality, the Heydar Aliyev Centre, named after Heydar Aliyev, the first secretary of Soviet Azerbaijan from 1969 to 1982 & the first President of Azerbaijan Republic, adds to a repertoire of prodigious object buildings in the ambitious, oil-rich capital of Azerbaijan. The Center has become a signature landmark of modern Baku due to its innovative & cutting-edge design.

This building featured in Extreme Engineering, a documentary television series that airs on the Discovery Channel & Science Channel, is a majestic statement of fluid 21^st century architecture forming abstract waves & peaks that seem to melt together.

The real delight is simply pondering & photographing the extraordinary exterior from ever-changing angles.

Extending on 8 floor levels, the interior is impressive, too, accommodating a 1000-seat auditorium, temporary exhibition spaces, a conference center, workshops & a Museum. Arguably the best part of the permanent collection is 'Treasures of Azerbaijan', which walks you through the nation's cultural highlights.

Overnight.  B L 

Morning, depart for Gabala, stopping at a couple of places.

Fist stop will be Lahij (or Lahic or Lahich) one of the main points on the Great Silk Road & one of the most ancient human settlements in Azerbaijan on the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountain.

Lahıc can feel just a little touristy at weekends when Bakuvians arrive to get photographed in vaguely preposterous sheepskin costumes. Listening to the mellifluous calls to prayers from the Mosques as mists swirl around the partly forested crags & meeting locals who, more than in any almost other village in Azerbaijan, speak a smattering of English, you will find delightful.

This medieval pretty, highland town is one of the most famous in the Caucasus and is much more beyond its trade & shopping centers. A unique living district, with its unusual planning lay out, transport systems, and its public, private & religious buildings, Lahij is an example of early urbanization & architecture, as illustrated by its cobbled streets & squares, together with its developed sewerage systems & water pipelines. Subterranean kurabandis (‘sewerage system’), made from river stones & dating back to almost 1000  - 1500  years, are thought to be one of the most ancient sewerage systems used in the world. None of the residents know where the Sewerage starts & where it ends, and by what principle it works, which does not prevent the collector from functioning for many centuries. Due to frequent earthquakes local people have developed sophisticated & authentic construction techniques.

During the Medieval Period, Lahij became an important centre of Craftsmen in Azerbaijan. Lahij master craftsmen could create 40 types of items related to Folk Art. These skilled craftsmen included jewelers, blacksmiths, carpenters, carpet makers, engravers, painters, tanners, shoemakers, sock weavers & others. Skilled potters & wood carvers make articles of copper, leather, embossing here & especially famous are the manufactured cold steel & copper utensils, decorated with engraved ornament.

The residents of Lahij are divided into 3 categories, based on their craftsmanship or professions: Baadvan, Azavarro & Araghird. Each of these categories has its own Village Square, Mosque, Hammam & Graveyard. One of the most striking features of the urban look of Lahij, are the respective village squares, which, today, still have specific roles in the public life of the village. With a population of approximately 860 ONLY ethnic Tats who speak the Tat language with a Persian dialect, Lahij is a notable place with its authentic handicrafts & traditions, particularly related to copper & weapon production in Azerbaijan in the 18^th & 19^th centuries.

Copper work is the most important of the skills developed by Lahij craftsmen, renowned for producing arms & copper items, decorated with carved ornaments. The development of copper production triggered the formation of such professions in Lahij as tinsmith, blacksmith & others, together with the creation of bituminous coal.

The structure & supplies of Copper Workshops, as well as its traditional external look & production processes remain preserved today, as they were in previous centuries.  Written sources, as well as, the rich copperware collections that may be seen in the Museums of Azerbaijan, Georgia, Russia & Europe, prove the existence of over 80 types of copperware equipment used in copperware manufacturing in Lahij.

Leather goods’ manufacture was the 2^nd biggest craft skill in Lahij, after that of Coppersmith. The local leather goods’ master craftsmen were expert in using shagren, tumaj & yuft as raw materials for various products such as shoes, belts, leather quilted jackets, book covers and bridles. Leather production in Lahij created suitable conditions for the development of other craftsmen, with associated skills – such as saddle makers, bridle makers, cobblers, hat makers and sheepskin makers. The village's carpet & rug crafts are also well known in Azerbaijan & South Caucasus.

Lahij, due to its unique & original features, has, throughout its history, been a centre of gravity for writers, scholars, artists & filmmakers, and, today, the residents make considerable efforts to promote the Region's cultural heritage & both Azerbaijani & foreign experts have written research papers about this unique village. Lahij & its residents have been featured in films shown at international contests & film festivals.

Carpet weaving builds sustainable livelihoods for women in the remote mountain communities of Azerbaijan. In Lahij, centuries old techniques are still traditionally used by Azerbaijani carpet artisans.

Carpet weaving is closely connected with the daily life & customs of the communities & its role is reflected in the meaning of the designs & their applications. Thus, girls seated on carpets tell fortunes & sing traditional songs at Novruz (the regional New Year).

Carpets are widely used in the daily life of local people throughout Azerbaijan to this day; they are used to cover floors, walls & roofs of houses. Special carpets are often woven for prayer, wedding ceremonies, mourning rituals, prayers or the birth of a child.

The intricacy, precision, and complexity of Azerbaijani carpets makes it difficult to believe they are the work of human hands. You must see it with your own eyes: it has incorporated the entire coloring of Azerbaijan nature - blue of the sky & greens of woods, deep shadows on of mountains slopes & whiteness of snow-capped peaks. Magically shimmering carpet colors have absorbed the ruby brightness of pomegranate seeds & golden light of quince, copper of saffron & lilac shades of grapes. An inexhaustible texture of patterns, the flight of creative imagination & great skillfulness - here is a brief characteristic of an Azerbaijani carpet.

Produced predominantly by women, carpet-weaving is a family tradition transmitted to new generations both orally and through practice. As tradition goes, the weaving is undertaken during winter, as extended family members assemble, each to perform their portion of creative work, with girls learning from their mothers and grandmothers, and wives assisting their mothers-in-law.

Walk around in the quaint historic village & visit the home workshop of a 3^rd generation carpet-weaver from Lahij village - Kamala Nesrullayeva who was taught to weave when she was 5 years old. She set up her loom atop her mother’s dowry rug - a rug knitted by her grandmother. As her son sits at Kamala’s loom to show his weaving skills, 4 generations of Azeri culture is captured in the moment.

Spend an hour interacting with her & her family as she explains about the Looms & demonstrate the weaving techniques.

Drive on to Samaxi (or Shamakhi or Shemakha), one of the ancient cities of the east.   

Shamakhi has a rich heritage & has provided the backdrop to major political events throughout much of its 2 millennia of existence & it became famous as the home of many prominent Azerbaijani philosophers, architects & scientists, such as Khagani, Nasimi, Bakuvi, Sabir, Shirvani, Hajibababekov.

The town, rightly considered to be one of the most beautiful cities of the Orient, used to be the capital of medieval state of Shirvan & in 9^th – 18^th centuries, it was the capital & the center of Shamakhi Khanate of Shirvan Empire & played one of the major roles in the region until its destruction in 1717 by Dagestanian semi-states.

Under the Russian Empire Shamakhi was the capital of Shemakha Governorate, but the devastating earthquake of 1859 hurt the city. Then capital moved to Baku & the Governorate was renamed. Shemakhi is mentioned by the great Russian poet A.S. Pushkin in "The Tale of the Golden Cockerel" ("Give me to you a damsel, Shemahan queen").

Present day Shamakhi is a recognized center of Winemaking & Carpet weaving. Besides, it is a city of literature since it was the native land of many Azerbaijani poets. Right near Shamakhi there is an amazing place called Pirkuli famous for its snowy hills. It is probably the only place in sunny Azerbaijan where you can enjoy active winter pastime: skiing & snowboarding.

The main landmark of the city is Gulistan fortress (11^th - 12^th centuries) – the last refuge of Shirvan Dynasty built for the city's defense. Equally interesting are the Mausoleum of Addy-Gyumbez (The Seven Domes) with numerous burial places of Shamakhi governors, Djuma cathedral mosque (10^th century & reconstructed in the 19^th century) & numerous ruins of the 10^th - 17^th centuries.

To get to the site of excavations of Gulistan Fortress & see the remains of the towers and the camp of the fortress, a short hike out of Shamakhi, you will need to climb to the top of the ‘steep’ mountain.

Built in the 8^th - 9^th centuries & rebuilt in the 12^th - 13^th centuries, the site of the excavation contains a lot of fragments of various medieval ceramics (sometimes with traces of medieval paint), which you are allowed to take with you as a souvenir. Note: visitors have to be very careful about Snakes in Spring & Summer especially.

Juma Mosque built in 743 by Abu Muslim, is considered as the oldest one in the Caucasus after the Friday mosque of Derbent (constructed in 734). Built during the governance period of Caliphate's vicar in the Caucasus & Dagestan, the Mosque underwent numerous damages due to plundering, earthquakes & wars. It was repeatedly repaired, especially after the earthquakes of 1859 & 1887.

Strongly damaged once again as a result of the next devastating earthquake of 1902, it was rebuilt & reconstructed in 1905 -1910, by the architect Iosif Ploshko. The white-stone iron-concrete structure with iron domes also suffered as a result of a fire during the March 1918 events. In the Soviet years it was not used for its intended purpose & was repaired only in 1980. The Mosque was returned to its original appearance with the preservation of the old structure (side & rear walls, columns of the façade, etc.). In the courtyard, you can see old photographs of the Mosque.

Yeddi Gumbaz Mausoleum is situated in a Cemetery with a group of mausoleums, burial vaults of the Shirvan khans of the 18^th & 19^th centuries. Visitors can get inside only 3 of the 4 surviving mausoleums. The Tombstones inside the Mausoleums are decorated more richly than the ones outside. Also, in the Cemetery, there is the grave of the Azerbaijani poet-satirist Mirza Alakbar Sabir of the 19^th century.

Shahandan Mausoleum in the most ancient Cemetery of the city, where supposedly there is a grave of the 15^th century poet of Shahandan, brother of poet Imadaddin Nasimi. The Mausoleum was erected on this grave in the 17^th century, which has survived to this day & you can see it from inside. The grave of the Azerbaijani poet-satirist of the 19^th century Seyid Azim Shirvani is also located here.

The Museum of Mirza Alakbar Sabir, the Azerbaijani poet-satirist born in 1862 in Shamakhi was established in 1998 on the site of the house where he was born & contains 7 exposition rooms. There are about 600 exhibits stored relating to the poet and the era in which he lived & worked.

You will ‘some’ of the city’s more prominent landmarks (as many as the time permits).

Here also, you will have the opportunity to visit a Carpet factory run by the Evsen Group which has more than 100 workers who follow the traditional forgotten methods of the Azerbaijan carpet - weaving school. It also serves for heightening the national spirit & immortalizing of our carpet weaving culture as inside the country & abroad.

Spend a couple of hours here before proceeding to your final destination.

Arrive in Gabala by late afternoon & Check-in at the hotel.

Gabala, is one of the most beautiful parts of Azerbaijan, rightly called “Azerbaijani Switzerland”, with a rich & ancient history. There is a great number of historical & cultural monuments of different eras in this region.

Sometime in the past this city (Kabbalah) was the capital of Caucasian Albania for 600 years, mentioned in the works of antique historians of the 1^ST century. Later in the Arabian sources, it was mentioned as Khazar. Up to this present time there are the ruins of the ancient city and the main gate of Caucasian Albania. Ongoing excavations near the village Chukhur confirm that Gabala from 4^th - 18^th centuries was one of the major cities with developed trade & crafts.

At first Gabala was a part of Shirvanshahs state & later Sheki khanate. The city was repeatedly exposed to devastating invasions. But despite this, Gabala has preserved material evidence of its civilized past.

The ruins of ancient Gabala are a short distance away from the present day city but the excavation finds from the ancient settlement can be seen in the City Museum. The area around Gabala also boasts of numerous historical & architectural monuments amidst the ruins of an ancient city said to be about 2,000 years old.

Among the local attractions here, are the famous 500 year old nut & chestnut forests - so called Russian forests, river valleys & numerous picturesque villages. Blooming chestnuts are a unique sight in the spring time.

Flora & fauna of the district are extraordinary rich: in the woods & mountain pastures can be found noble deer & wild boar, hare, bears, wolves, foxes and numerous birds - pheasant, grouse, francolin, etc. The abundance of game in the season attracts many hunters.

After passing through the picturesque streets of the city, you will visit the largest open air amusement park in Azerbaijan - Gabaland covering an area of 16 hectares. The town also hosts an annual International Music Festival of classical music, jazz & Mugham, which is attended by bands & artists from all around the world. Not surprisingly that exactly in Gabala, is located a factory for piano manufacturing under the famous Dutch brand Beltman.

Balance of the day is at leisure to relax or for independent exploration (we shall be happy to offer suggestions about optional programs & arrange). 

You may visit the Spa complex (with its swimming pools, Turkish bath, saunas, massage, etc.) of the Qafqaz Resort hotel (where you would be staying). Or, you may enjoy a Catamaran ride on Lake Nohur.  

Morning, Check-out & accompanied by the Tour-guide at 08.00 am, proceed for a 4 hour sightseeing of Gabala.

Later, depart for Sheki.

Enroute, make a couple of interesting stops.

First stop will be at Mingachevir, the 4^th largest city in Azerbaijan, known as city of lights because of its hydroelectric power station on the Kur River, which splits the city in half.   

The area has been settled for thousands of years, but the current city was founded in 1948, partly by German soldiers who were taken prisoner during World War II. A fierce battle took place between the powerful army of Roman command under Pompey & the yet army of Albanian governor.

Historical facts also prove that the ancient Silk Road passed via Mingechevir & interestingly, the road passing from here used to be called the “road of messenger” which connected lots of camelcades & caravans. Several mosques, workshops manufacturing fiber silk & silk cloth, operating in this settlement.

Mingachevir is a neat, planned city of well-tended wide green avenues, attractive parks and several interesting public statues.

That Dam created a vast reservoir of around 600 square kilometres that is now Azerbaijan’s biggest lake. Meanwhile, the river gorge through which the waters once surged is now calmed into a steady-flowing wide waterway that cuts the city in two, the Kura forming a limpidly perfect setting for Azerbaijan’s National Rowing & Canoeing Centre. The Centre is a state-of-the-art facility popular throughout the winter with Russian rowers seeking warmer climes. And the main section of rowable river lies handily close to the main bridge at the heart of town.

Just north of the bridge, a tree-shaded Park attractively filters the sunlight for tea drinkers at comparatively unsophisticated summer cafes. At the back of the cafes are a couple of jetties from which visitors can take very short pleasure cruises – daring the superstitious to ride on a boat named ‘Titanik’. A few hundred metres south of here is the main sports complex that includes a full Olympic size swimming pool and a river-view tower-restaurant which looks like a futuristic airport control tower. The city has many Parks & a couple of historical monuments

Visitors may enjoy a boat cruise here (direct payment – not included). 

The Mingachevir Historical Museum was established in January 1968 & features 2 sections - Martyrs’ Memorial & Independence Museum with 14,461 exhibits. The city is also home to Mingachevir Gallery, which includes 310 works of art by Azerbaijani & Russian artists.

East of the river the town appears to pivot around a large oval of mid-Soviet era public buildings dominated by an archetypal theatre named after Marziyya Davudova, an actress of Tatar descent who reached the height of her fame in 1949 (named People’s Artist of the USSR) just as Mingachevir was being built. To the southeast, the city’s sizeable mosque is worth a look for its oddly shaped minarets, like intercontinental ballistic milk-churns.

Drive on to Kish, one of the oldest of Azerbaijani villages, well known for the unique ancient Albanian temple.

This antique temple - mother of Alban churches, has a special status among Christian Albanian monuments. It is valuable not only as an architectural monument but also because of its outstanding historical significance. The official date of its birth is the 1^st century AD when the territory of Azerbaijan included the Caucasian part of Albania.

Historians assume that the Church was founded by Apostle Elise who brought Christianity to Albania. “Elise having received the Orient as his lot went from Jerusalem to Persia & started to preach with his 3 pupils. There, he was persecuted so he came to Kish where he founded a Church & made a bloodless sacrifice”

The Church has been of intense interest to scholars & excavations revealed that it was built in 5^th century on a site that once held a pagan Moon Temple. The Church is being renovated & will be turned into a Museum of History highlighting Caucasian Albania’s 1000 year of the existence. It is believed that the Church in Kish is one of the most ancient centre of Christianity in the entire world.

Spend an hour here before driving to Sheki.

Arrive by late afternoon & Check-in at the hotel.

Few foreigners visit Azerbaijan beyond its capital city of Baku. In so doing, they overlook a true gem in the form of Sheki.

A relatively small city, Sheki is set in a picturesque setting - it lies in the rolling, thickly forested foothills, which spread out to the south, while to the immediate north are the dramatic, snow-capped peaks of the Greater Caucasus - a mountain area rich in narrow gorges & green valleys, springs, purest rivers, waterfalls & mineral water springs framed by dense wood & alpine meadows.

But more than anything, the relaxed pace of life evident in Sheki's central market & tea houses makes the city a welcome respite from whatever cares may trouble you. Rich in Islamic architecture, Silk Road history, good food & friendly people, this is travel & leisure in the Caucasus at its finest. Sheki has its own theatre, a historical museum, the house-museum of the Azerbaijan writer & philosopher M.F. Ahundov.

Throughout its history, Sheki swung between independence & foreign domination.

In earlier centuries, Sheki was the seat of an Albanian kingdom, which was invaded repeatedly by the Persian, Roman, Parthian, Arab, Mongolian & other empires. In the past millennium, Sheki fell under the influence & often the direct rule of Persia or the Shirvanshahs of Baku. Shortly after the 18^th century collapse of the Safavid Empire, Sheki became the capital of the independent Sheki Khanate, during which the Khansarai was built. But Sheki's independence did not last long; it was absorbed in the early 19^th century by an expansionist Russian Empire.

Archeological data testify that the city can be considered one of the oldest settlements in the Caucasus; many finds on its territory are dated as old as 2,500 years. Due to Sheki's rather tumultuous political history (in a turbulent region), the majority of Sheki's preserved historic & architectural monuments date from only the 16^th - 19^th centuries.

In addition to enjoying the views & wandering the leafy streets, there are 2 sights in Sheki that you really cannot miss: the Khansarai & the Caravansarai. .

Sheki is a major center of crafts. The city still has street names that indicate the ancient professions - Duluzchular (potters), Zargarlar (jewelers), Halvachylar (confectioners), etc. By the way, be sure to try the famous, mouth-watering Sheki baklava, which is manufactured and sold in numerous family confectionary stores in the city center. You can buy jewels & engravings by local craftsmen.

There are numerous unique monuments of history that have survived, scattered around Sheki. Among those are the 18^th century “Kyumbazi” Towers in Kutkashen, Sumug Fortress & a mosque in Ilisu, a Fortress & Kish Mausoleum, a 4^th century Fortress in Ukhary -Chardahlar & numerous ruins. Depending on the available time, you might visit a couple of those.

Balance of the day is at leisure to relax or for independent exploration (we shall be happy to offer suggestions). 

Today, travel back to the atmosphere of the Silk Road in Sheki's UNESCO World Heritage old town.

Meet the Tour-guide at 08.00 am & proceed for a 4 hour sightseeing tour of the city.

Soak up the bucolic atmosphere, admire the intricate brickwork & hunt for some historical relics. This upper part of the city is made up of 19^th century merchant housing with distinctive gabled roofs, mosques & hammams, reflecting Sheki’s long history as a former hub of the Silk Trade.

You can visit house museums to local literary heroes Mirza Fatali Akhundzade & Bakhtiyar Vahabzade and call into the Sheki Khans’ House.

The city can boasts many historical & architectural places of interest, but its pride is that magnificent work of Islamic architecture, UNESCO World Heritage Site of Khansarai - the 18^th century majestic royal palace of Sheki Khans with its magnificent wall paintings & tracery windows in the stone citadel. During the city's period of independence as the Sheki Khanate, Khan Hussein constructed the palace, its gardens, and fortifications to serve as the summer palace of the Sheki Khans. The palace is exquisite, inside & out, and the courtyard boasts panoramic views of the city & the surrounding mountain forests. It is said that during the construction of the palace, not a single nail was used. You can hardly find another Palace like this.

The other ‘must-see’ located close by is the Caravanserai, constructed by the Sheki Khans to house caravans as they passed through on the Silk Road to & from China.

Sheki was famous as the city of craftsmen & merchants. Merchants & traders from the countries of the Great Silk route used to gather there. Therefore, a great attention was paid to construction of caravanserais. Caravanserais were built with a view of all convenience & safety of merchants & their goods. In Sheki caravanserais merchants stored their goods in cellars, traded on the first floor & lived on the second. Each floor had more than 200 rooms. According to the tradition caravanserais had two & even four entrances. When closed, caravan serais turned into fortresses. This was one of 5 such stops in Azerbaijan during the 18^th & 19^th centuries, and was the biggest Caravanserai on the Silk Road in the entire Trans-Caucasus region. Only two of them have survived.

To this day, The Upper caravanserai (floor) still serves as a place for travellers to stay & eat (in addition to being a main sight, it is also one of the city's few hotel options), & also as a place where one can simply admire its beautiful architecture.

You will also be visiting the picturesque 18^th century Juma Mosque decorated with exquisite geometric designs & with its 40m spire, from which you will hear the resounding call to prayer 5 times a day.

Sheki, in addition to being and an important stop along the Silk Road, has been a major silk producer over the past 4 centuries & is famous for its various silk products.

On the historic trading street named after legendary local writer Mirza Fatali Akhundzade, step into small boutiques & admire the authentic craftsmanship, whether it be witnessing patterns being printed onto the colourful kelaghayi headscarves traditionally worn by Azerbaijani women or decorating clothes & cushions with intricate floral designs using a technique known as takalduz embroidery.

Meet talented artisans making pots, papags (a national hat), miniature caskets & national instruments whose skills have been passed down through generations. In the Sheki Fortress, call into the shebeke workshop to see spectacular mosaics being painstakingly composed of thousands of tiny pieces of stained glass held together in wooden lattices of all shapes and sizes.

Step into Sheki's boutiques & admire their authentic craftsmanship.

Sheki's silk factory is about a 15 minute walk from the centre of town.

Silkworms were cultivated in local gardens & hundreds of local shops produced silk & silk garments. By 16^th century, Sheki was the most important silk producing centre in the whole of the Caucasus & one of the world’s biggest Silk factory was built in 1829. By 19^th century, it became known as the “Caucasian Lyon”, a reference to the centre of silk production in France.

Merchants & travellers traded and exported beautiful silk fabrics & gold-embroidered shawls from here &  from 15^th century onwards, gossamer-like Sheki silk became renowned for its durability & consequently, was highly prized.

Today, the Sheki Silk factory makes silk carpets, shawls & scarves using natural dyes.

However, it is quite difficult to gain entrance into the factory but there is a store adjoining the factory, where you can find fine silk goods made in the factory. (we would be able to get permission to go inside in case of Groups of 15+).

Return to the hotel.

Balance of the day is at leisure to relax or for independent exploration (we shall be happy to offer suggestions). 

Morning, depart back to Baku, enroute stopping at some more iconic places with a Textile or Carpet relevance & of course, Azerbaijani folklore.

Stop at the small town of Ismayilli, capital of the Ismailli Rayon province, situated on the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus, surrounded by forests & mountains,

The territory, like all of northern Azerbaijan, was part of the Albanian state in the 4^th century B.C and the area formed the kingdom of Mehran Gyrdymans from the Sasanies dynasty.  Albanian rulers Varaz Grigor & his son Djavanshir (616 - 681) were the most prominent rulers of Albania.

Ismailli district has a number of ancient historical monuments from different periods that have been preserved.

A number of colorful settlements in the area, especially Lahydj & Basgal, Ivanovka, Galadjyg, Talystan & Diyarly villages where various Tribes live & practice their traditional crafts, are notable for their ancient history & special beauty.

Ismailly district has a rich nature. The forests are composed of oak, hornbeam, beech-tree, alder-tree, birch-tree, poplar, pear, spoke & other trees. Fauna in the forests includes elk, mountain goat, chamois, deer, roe deer, bear, boar, lynx, fox, wolf, squirrel, coon, pheasant, partridge, eagle, falcon & tetra.

You will be able to see some (based on the available time) of the famous landmarks, inside the city & outside.

If time, permits, you will also briefly visit a Carpet workshop here.

Near the city center, is the Heydar Aliyev Park, with its musical fountain, cozy benches & stylish lanterns made to order in Europe. Very popular with the locals, both old & young, crowds gather here in the evenings, sit under the majestic century-old plane trees, listen to music & watch the news on the huge monitor installed on the building of the Ismayilli Center for Culture & Tourism.

Throughout the Park on the lawns are installed large ceramic jugs & various sculptural compositions. A multi-stage central fountain of rectangular shape divides the Park into 2 & attracts attention with an illuminated Art Nouveau Glass Bridge. In one of the corners, is a Japanese Garden, with decorative trees planted among the picturesquely placed stones and you will see people sitting here in the Gazebos, contemplating the surrounding beauty.

Right next to the Park is the Ismayilli Museum of Local History, where one can get acquainted with the rich history of the region.

The Collection includes more than 1000 exhibits, among which there are many unique ones, such as, for example, the oldest ‘preserved’ butter found in the world! It was discovered in an amphora in the village of Mollaisagli during the construction of the Oguz-Gyabala-Baku water pipeline. Specialists of the capital's Museum of Archeology along with the Scientists, conducted an extensive examination & found that the origin of butter is related to 3^rd century BC.

Many samples of pottery of that time, bronze ornaments, Burial relics of people dating to the 2^nd century BC can also be seen. The Museum also has a ‘Stone’ collection, presumably from a Meteorite that flew to earth from the depths of the Cosmos. The unusual molten surface of the stone, large weight with small dimensions leaves no doubt about its origin.

Outside the city core, you will see the most famous monument of the area in the village of Hanaghay, about 10 km from the district center, is the Maiden's Tower located on top of a steep mountain covered with such a dense forest that it is possible to say that the sun's rays do not penetrate, which is why there is always coolness here.

To reach the Maiden Tower, you will drive across a fast mountain river, which adds a certain amount of excitement to the journey. From the Parking zone, there is a slight walk (or you can opt to ride a horse). But, the indescribably beautiful panoramic views from the top make it a worth the effort.

From the Tower there is an underground tunnel leading to the Djavanshir Fortress, a few kilometers away in the neighboring village. Over time, the Tunnel collapsed, but some of its parts have survived to this day.

The Fortress is the pride of Ismayilli. In the vicinity of the village there are traces of 4 other ancient settlements & 5 Cemeteries. It is assumed that the territory has a 2000 year history & the construction date varies from 7^th – 11^th century. This defensive fortress, covering an area of 1.5 hectares, was erected on the right bank of the Ah-Oh river, on top of a mountain surrounded by steep cliffs.

The Fortress consists of the outer & inner parts (Ichgala). The thickness of the outer southern wall is 2 meters & the height is 10 meters. The inner living area Ichgala, covering 2 hectares, is built on the very top of the mountain. Only some towers, walls & part of the terrace have been preserved. Near the Fortress, surrounded by a dense forest, there is a picturesque waterfall.

You may also drive by the picturesque village of Galachyg, which gained fame as the location of the famous episodes from the classics of the Azerbaijani cinema "Stepmother". This is the only village in the Ismayilli region, where once can see huge chestnuts trees everywhere, covering the surroundings with the shadow of their powerful foliage.

Then, there is Ivanovka village where you will see miles & miles of golden wheat fields

Ivanovka, which preserved all its customs, traditions, folklore & way of life since the time it was a Soviet Collective Farm. The system of collective social labor still functions seamlessly & it grows wheaten, sunflower, vegetables & produce dairy products - butter, sour cream, cheese & honey. In many shops in Baku, eco-friendly products grown in Ivanovka are sold.

Residents of Ivanovka call themselves "Molokans," who were exiled for not wanting to accept Russian church reform & adhered to the Old Believers.

The migration of Molokans in the first half of the 19^th century to Azerbaijan was part of the Tsarist policy of the Russification of the conquered territories.

The ancient unique Houses in Ivanovka are classical standard wooden buildings with carved platbands lined up in a row. The rows of houses are separated by roads that form wide streets. Near each house there is a bench & in the back gardens, people grow fruits, melons, corn, sunflowers, etc.

But the highlight of today is when you visit the village of Basgal, the home of Azerbaijani Kelaghayi making.

The legacy of the Silk Road is still visible in the picturesque village of Basgal. At first glance, resembling the old Baku fortress, the village pleases the eye with its well-groomed look. The population of the village is small. 20 years ago there lived 3,000 people, now there are about 1,500 left but keeping alive the ancient traditions & culture.

Narrow streets, paved with cobblestone & houses built from the same stones, create a special atmosphere. The construction style is unique in view of the frequent earthquakes in the region. In building the structure with river stones, after every 5-6 layers of stones, there is a layer of strong wooden logs. Specialists call this "seismic belt", where the Logs absorb the pressure & are almost resistant to earthquakes. They also have a 12^th century Sewage system called kyurebend which is fully functional & performing as it did for centuries.

A unique feature is that all the houses are facing the facade to Mecca. Another distinctive feature is that since the 17^th century, the Hammams here were arranged inside the 2 story houses with courtyards, neatly lined along the street. On the 1^st floor there are utility rooms, the 2^nd floor is residential.

In honor of this village the well-known Azerbaijani melody "Basgal" was created. Some episodes of the classic Soviet film series "On the Far Shores" (1958) were filmed here.

Since the Middle Ages, Basgal was one of the pre-eminent centers of crafts & silk spinning on the Silk Road & almost every house had old silk spinning machines. The art of dyers, weavers & silkworms passed from generation to generation. The most popular silk product of course, was the Kelaghayis - the exquisite silk headscarves & shawls traditionally worn by Azerbaijani women.

A wonderful example of Azerbaijani folk art, Kelaghayi is produced exclusively in Azerbaijan & was one of the main attributes of Azerbaijani women's clothing, regardless of social status. Kelaghayis were produced for girls, for middle-aged & elderly women.

The headscarves can be of different colors & sizes with patterns are usually decorated with vegetal or geometric patterns all over the edge & / or the center of the product, made using the batik technique - a method of stamping on hot wax to prevent the dye from colouring the fabric. The most valuable Kelaghayi produced in Basgal are the ones with 6 or 7 colors.

Usually for Weddings, red coloured Kelaghayi is used. For mourning events everyone wears black Kelaghayi. On a daily basis, women wore white, cream & brown Kelaghayi.

The way how a Kelaghayi is worn also has different connotations. Younger women covered their heads with a Kelaghayi as "Orpeg", & older women tied a Kelaghayi as "turban" or "dinge". At present, Kelaghayi can be worn, for example, as a shawl worn over the shoulders, like a pareo, pancho, etc.

In the past, silk weaving & Kelaghayi making were practised in every single household in the village, but these crafts found themselves on the verge of disappearance by the end of the Soviet period & the  national Kelaghayi went out of fashion.

The revival began in the early 2000s when a Baskal Silk Center was established here & today, a new generation of designers being inspired by the headscarf’s symbolism & beauty, are striving to modernise it & make it fashionable again. In addition to Kelaghayi, other silk products are also produced.

You will visit the Center to attend an impromptu  hour long Kelaghayi masterclass & learn the secrets of producing a Kelaghayi. There is also a small Museum of Kalagayi.

Finally, it is time to begin your drive to Baku.

Reach by late evening & Check-in at the hotel.

Balance of the evening is at leisure.

Early morning, meet the Tour-guide & depart on a full day excursion to visit Guba, enroute making a visiting a few interesting places.

Stop at Qusar.

Qusar is located not far from Bazarduzu, Shahdagh Mountains & the Russian border. Only in 1938, Qusar settlement acquired a city status. There exist many versions about origin of the city, but the most possible one is a version of Tamilla Khalilova, a notable historian.

According to historical data, the Arabs began a conquest of the South Caucasus in the 7^th century & reached a territory of present Qusar Rayon.

According to the historians’ version, the name of the river originated from Arabian Al-Qausar. In translation from the Holy Quran into English “Al Qausar - in translation, means a river of abundance that is a heavenly river, water of which is whiter than milk & sweeter than honey. Its fragrance is nicer than musk & birds with beautiful long necks like necks of camels fly around it.”   The settlement got its name from the river - Qusar

There is a Museum & an impressive new Turkish-style mosque but the ruins of Qarabulaq offer the only intriguing sight.

Qarabulaq was a 21^st century holiday retreat, designed with lots of brilliantly idiosyncratic Tolkein-esque twiddles, including concrete knights brandishing flame-throwing weapons. Then, in 2005 authorities discovered that the location had been used for criminal activities & was promptly closed down. Now, creepers are slowly overrunning its eclectic buildings and this adds further to the already bizarre atmosphere.

Next stop will be Candy Cane Mountain (or Khizi Mountains), which has a remarkable variety of landscapes.

On the flat Caspian coast, there are irrigated cattle & chicken-breeding lowlands around Shurabad & then, the Xızı road climbs gently through sharply colored semi-desert landscapes.  The Mountains are part of the Greater Caucasus range & contain numerous belemnites from the Cretaceous period. The mountains’ colors are a result of the groundwater that has altered the oxidation state of the iron compounds in the earth. Popular with the locals who consider it a sacred place & you will come across lots of visitors.

Drive on to Stop at the ethnic Laza Village, located in a mountain hollow in height 1300m, on the ancient caravan routes across the passage of the Main Caucasian Ridge.

The soaring mountain valley surrounding Laza is one of the most stunning sights anywhere. Dramatic grass-clad slopes descend from noble Shahdag (4243m) & craggy Qyzylqaya (3726m). A series of ribbon waterfalls drop over perilous cliff edges & carpets of wildflowers add to the vivid greens throughout late spring & summer

The tiny village is diffuse & its banal houses lack the striking austerity of Xynalyq’s dark stone architecture. The vicinity of the village is very picturesque, numerous waterfalls flow down from rocky walls. A rocky pinnacle beside the rusty-roofed little mosque adds foreground for photos of the mind-blowing mountain panorama.

In the ancient village, live ethnic Lezghins whose history is connected to the Caucasian Albania - one of the most ancient states in the territory of Azerbaijan.

During the centuries, there was a gradual movement of a part of the Lezghin tribes to southern, foothill & aound the Caspian zones. It is important to note that the historical destiny of the Lezghin people is closely related to Azerbaijan & the Azerbaijani.

Inhabitants of the village live a usual life of high-mountainous settlements, conduct housekeeping, and hold birds, large horned & fine horned livestock. In summer they drive away the herds on high-mountainous pastures "Shah Yaylag" & "Shah Nabat".

Inhabitants talk to each other in the native Lezghin language. They freely communicate with visitors in the Azerbaijan language. Many middle-aged men speak Russian adequately. Schoolboys study the English language since recently has grown the stream of the foreign tourists making ascensions on the highest plateaus & tops "Shahdag", "Gizil Gaya", "Tufan", "Bazar-Duzu", etc.The settlement consists of 26 houses, which about 130 inhabitants live in. There is a school with 4 year-education.

Continue on to Guba.

Reach Guba by noon & continue exploring.

Quba located in the picturesque hillsides, is one of the largest cities in Azerbaijan. It was once the capital of Quba khanate which was founded in the mid18^th century.

Indeed, the sceneries of Quba are hard to describe with words. It seems nature has collected there the brightest colors: juicy greens of the alpine meadows, white snow caps, rapid transparent-blue mountain- rivers. Guba is also called the land of apples – orchards stretching for kilometers with the most delicious & juicy fruits that have made it famous far beyond the borders of Azerbaijan.

There were 26 tribes in this empire. Today the remnants & descendants of these Tribes (Ketish, Haput, Lezgin, Tat, cCek, etc) mostly live in the Guba region & have been able to preserve their language, culture, & traditions till today. Here, you can meet original villages - a kind of ethnographic open-air museum, in each of which the peoples living in them speak their unique language - Haputlin, Kryz, Jack, Hynalyg. In these small villages, a few original houses have been preserved. The largest ethnographic village is Khinalig, deep in the mountains.

A historical city founded in the 4^th century, Guba is famous for ancient mosques & for its unique carpets.

It is Azerbaijan’s largest center of carpet weaving & Guba carpets woven here adorn museums & private galleries in many countries of the world.

The Golu Chichi carpet, made by Guba craftsmen in 1712, is now on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Guba carpets are characterized by complex geometric patterns & restrained color schemes. You can see the skill of weavers in local workshops that allow visitors. The professional carpet-making enterprises weave handmade carpets for every taste & size. When dyeing threads from which carpets are woven, only natural dyes are used.

Obviously due to its long history, there are many places to see here. You will visit only ‘some’ of the notable landmarks.

Start with Memorial Complex.

In many countries of the world, there are monuments reminiscent of the tragic pages of its history. In Azerbaijan, it is the Memorial complex of the genocide in Guba.

The location of the Monument was not chosen by chance. In the spring of 1918, Guba County became one of the epicenters of the bloody drama organized by Armenian military units & resulting in the deaths of tens of thousands of innocent people. These facts remained hidden for many years, preserved only on the yellow pages of archival documents. Until April 2007, when mass graves of people who died in the tragic days of 1918 were discovered in the region of Guba.

In 2013, at the place of mass burial, in memory of the victims of the tragedy, the Genocide Memorial Complex was erected. The monument consists of three parts – 2 structures resembling pointed knives, as well as from the main hall, in the middle of which is a Memorial Stone. The sharp ends represent a huge pain, tearing apart the heart. And the fact that they come out of the ground suggests that it is impossible to hide the truth.

Guba mosques have their own unique architecture, which will undoubtedly attract the attention of a curious tourist.

One of them is the 19^th century Juma Mosque (aka Dzhuma or Friday Mosque), erected in the city center, whose construction style is typical only for the mosques of Quba province.  It has the shape of a regular octagon, inside of which there is one large hall, crowned by a huge 16 metre diameter huge dome.

Next stop is the Sakina-Khanum Mosque, another monumental religious structure built in 1854 by the widow of Abbasgulu Agha Bakikhanov - the well-known Azerbaijan scientist, writer, historian, diplomat, military translator & an officer of the Russian army, to commemorate her late husband.

The burnt red brick building of the 9 domed Mosque is 27 meters high & is designed to looks like a faceted cylinder. Each facet has a window in the form of a semicircular arch. Top of this stately building is crowned with a big white metal dome in the shape of a multi-faceted helmet trimmed with numerous faces & decorated by a graceful thin spike. Locals claim that the mosque was built without the use of cement, and eggs were used as a fastening element.

Another interesting place next door to the Mosque is wife built, is the house where Abbasgulu Aga Bakikhanov (1794-1847) lived. He was born in the Absheron village of Amirjan, but as a child moved with his family to live in the village of Amsar of Gubinsky district.

In memory of the great Azerbaijani in 1943, the Abbasgulu Agha Bakikhanov Museum of Local History was opened in an old 19^th century house in which Bakikhanov himself lived at one time. The Museum stores about ten thousand different exhibits. There is another House-Museum in the village of Amsar, where Bakikhanov lived for many years. Here are collected unique exhibits of the 19^th century, his books & much more.

You may also see the Chukhur Hamam, the 18^th century historical bathhouse (currently under restoration). Built of red brick, it is a quadrangular building with a large dome, allowing the Keeper to regulate & keep the desired temperature & humidity in the room. The Bathhouse consists of 4 rooms & the decorations on the walls depict colorful national ornaments.

Walk around the Red Settlement, called the village of millionaires because it is from here that many rich Jews hail.

It was here that famous Russian businessmen Akif Gilalov, Zarakh Iliev & God Nisanov were born. And although they live abroad, nevertheless, each of them has their own Mansions here. The Billionaires & Millionaires also donate to the local Synagogue & participate in social projects.

In turn, Red Settlement is the only community of Mountain Jews in the CIS. The local population loves pomposity – huge villas resembling palaces are built in the village & expensive cars drive around its streets. It is known that Jews appeared on Azerbaijani soil in the 5^th century – they were orthodox Jews who professed the teachings of not only the Old Testament but also the Talmud & rabbinical beliefs and speaking the language of the Iranian Juhuro group.

The highlight of the Guba trip is another opportunity to further enhance your knowledge about Azerbaijan carpets by participating in another Carpet weaving masterclass, a great way to experience these age-old traditions.

Carpets in Guba are traditionally woven in winter and considered some of the finest in the Caucasus. It is time for you to learn how to do it too!

Along with its beautiful nature & magnificent mountains, Guba is an ancient city with colourful traditions. People here have been weaving carpets since time immemorial, which you can learn about from local weavers at several carpet factories open to curious visitors.

Over 30 types of carpet are woven, traditionally by women, in villages such as Pirebedil, Devechi, Gonagkend, Zeiwa & Garagashli.

A unique feature is that each village’s carpets have their own individual characteristics, for example carpets woven in Pirebedil are famous for their elaborate floral designs on blue or ivory backgrounds, while those woven in Gonagkend often have a central medallion, and those called ‘Butali’ usually feature buta elements, representing fire.

Guba carpets are decorated with vegetable, zoomorphic ornamental motifs, executed with the help of geometric patterns.

You will return to Baku by late evening.

Balance of the evening free to relax or wander around on your own.

Finally, it is time to say good-bye to the "Land of Fire" & go home.  We sure hope that you may want to discover a bit more of Azerbaijan on your next visit. 

Check-out of the hotel by 12:00 noon (if the departure time is later in the evening, we will request the hotel to allow the use of hotel facilities & to leave the luggage at the Bell Desk). 

In time, you will be met by a Journeys Rep / Driver & transferred to Terminal? - Baku Heydar Aliyev International Airport for your onward flight back home. .  B

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