Welcome to Enchanting Journeys

Africa. There is nowhere like it on the planet for wildlife, wild lands & rich traditions that endure. No other continent comes close to it for scale, variety and pure, raw impact. Prepare to fall in love.

Welcome to mystical Ethiopia – dubbed the Cradle of Humanity. Ethiopia is like nowhere else on the planet, a beautiful country blessed with a peerless history, fabulous wildlife & some of Africa's most soulful peoples. 

Arrive in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s sprawling capital in the highlands bordering the Great Rift Valley & the country’s commercial & cultural hub.  

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Addis Ababa Bole International Airport, subsequent to Immigration & Customs, you will be met by The Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the hotel, help you settle in & also provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for the next few days.

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes of waiting, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer.  Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel.

Reach the hotel & Check-in.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the hotel for a complimentary early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’.

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s sprawling capital in the highlands bordering the Great Rift Valley, is the country’s commercial & cultural hub. And yet, Addis - Africa’s fourth-largest city & its diplomatic capital - is also a traffic-choked, sprawling city of no discernible beauty which many foreign visitors try to transit as quickly as possible. Since its establishment in the 19^th century, Addis Ababa has always seemed like a magical portal, a gateway to another world.

And yet, Addis - Africa’s 4^th largest city & its diplomatic capital - is also a traffic-choked, sprawling city of no discernible beauty which many foreign visitors try to transit as quickly as possible. This urban center serves as the gateway to Ethiopia’s mythical & ancient world, and continues to earn its reputation for friendly people, delicious food & the world’s best coffee.

This urban center serves as the gateway to Ethiopia’s mythical & ancient world, and continues to earn its reputation for friendly people, delicious food, and the world’s best coffee. For the rural masses of Ethiopia it was, & is, a city whose streets are paved in gold; for a foreign visitor, the gateway of Addis Ababa is at the verge of an ancient & mystical world.

Its National Museum exhibits Ethiopian art, traditional crafts and prehistoric fossils, including replicas of the famous early hominid, "Lucy." The burial place of the 20^th century emperor Haile Selassie, copper-domed Holy Trinity Cathedral, is a neo-baroque architectural landmark.  By skipping out on the contradictions of this complex city, you run the risk of failing to understand Ethiopia altogether.

Later in the afternoon, meet the Tour-guide at 02.00 pm & embark on a 4 hour sightseeing tour to explore the vibrant neighborhoods & historic landmarks of Addis Ababa.

Despite its size, Addis retains a small-town feel with lively markets, donkey carts hurrying down main streets and traditional coffee shops.

See the richly decorated interior of Holy Trinity Cathedral which commemorates the patriots who fought the Italian aggression in the 1930s, then trace Ethiopia’s long history through the Museum of Ethiopia - rated one of the best sub-Saharan museums - which gives you a good introduction to Ethiopian history & culture, by showcasing an extensive collection of Ethiopian antiquities. There is also a replica of the 3.5 million year old skull of "Lucy" or Dinknesh (Amharic for ‘wonderful’), whose discovery made Ethiopia the Cradle of Mankind.

Explore Haile Selassie’s former palace, now the fascinating Ethnological Museum & go deep into the traditions of Ethiopia’s diverse communities as you view cultural materials from over 80 ethnic groups of the region. Drive up to the Entoto hills from where we get a panoramic view of the city.

Come back to the hotel to freshen up..

Evening, you will be invited for dinner at one of the best traditional restaurants of Addis to see the folkloric dances of the Ethiopian people & to taste the variety of meals of the Ethiopian people

Come back to the hotel.

Overnight.  D 

Very early morning, you will be transferred to the Addis Ababa Bole International Airport for the short flight to Bahir Dar.

Arrive in Mekelle, Ethiopia’s 5^th largest city & the economic, cultural & political hub of northern Ethiopia.

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Mekele Alula Aba Nega Airport, you will be welcomed by The Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort, provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for the next few days & see you off on your drive to your final destination of Ghiralta, after a brief tour of the city.

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes of waiting, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer.  Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel.

The rapidly expanding university city of Mekelle (or Makale) was founded by Emperor Yohannes IV, as the capital of the Tigray province. in 1881. During his reign, the emperor built a number of churches, including Medhane Alem & Kidane Mihret, during the 1870s, a palace in the 1880s & the churches of Saint Teklehaimanot. 

In the center, the grand palace of emperor Yohannes IV is now the Yohannes IV Museum. The tall Martyrs’ Memorial Monument commemorates those who fought the communist Derg regime in the late 20^th century. The city’s markets are an important stop for salt merchants arriving from the Danakil Depression in the country’s northeast.

Except for a moderately dense eucalyptus cover on the hills in eastern edges of Mekelle and some exotic species of trees and shrubs lining the streets, the surrounding landscape is almost treeless.

Today the modern & clean city with a vibrant cafe culture, is wealthier than most in Ethiopia & has thrived under Ethiopia's Tigrayan rulers. There is a rising university which developed out of the pre-1991 Arid Agricultural College, & about a dozen other governmental & private colleges. The city sometimes called by writers as "the northen star", & recently in social media people have started to call the city "the home of spartas" to show the resistance of tigryan for 3000 years against enemy. Capital of the Tigray region but away from the main tourist trail, Mekele is relatively unknown & travellers are honoured guests but it also serves as a useful base for the northern Tigray churches.

After enjoying a hearty traditional breakfast, drive around the city & stop at the Museum.

The Italian-designed stone palace built for Emperor Yohannes IV (r 1872–89) is now an interesting Museum. Although the palace itself is undergoing a thorough restoration, the 3 part collection (royal regalia, religious paraphernalia & Tigrayan crafts) is on display in another building.

Later depart for Ghiralta, 133 km away.

Enroute, stop at a couple of interesting rock hewn churches.

Abreha Wa Atsbeha - the oldest rock hewn church group in the country, with its size & complex architecture, is incredibly impressive. It is one of the best & largest of the churches of Tigray and was built for the legendary kings of Aksum, the brothers Abreha & Atsebha, who introduced Christianity to Ethiopia during the 4^th century. Every year on October 14^th thousands of pilgrims make the religious journey to Abreha Wa Atsbeha, creating a unique ceremonial spectacle.

The church is blinding with its white painted face with its exterior cut free from the rock behind it & is built into the red rock overlooking a valley. The facade boasts four columns in front with two large blue doors under arches & it is covered in post- 17^th century mural paintings & frescoes depicting Biblical scenes & saints. The church holds the prayer cross which according to church officials, belonged to Frumentius who was the first Bishop of Ethiopia.

Then, see Mikael Milhazengi, - a church dedicated to Saint Mikael, which is carved out of an isolated hill at 9,055 feet above sea level. There are a number of graves & ancient indigenous trees inside the courtyard. The most remarkable feature of the church is its beautifully decorated dome.

After spending a couple of hours, continue driving through the beautiful countryside & arrive in Gheralta by afternoon.

Check-in at the lodge.

The Gheralta cluster is home to the most famous, most visited and simply the most (about 30) rock-hewn churches. It is the gloriously high & remote locations as much as the churches themselves that provide the attraction & visitors must be properly fit to reach many of them. Since it gets by far the most visitors, there are more reports of hassles, but in our experience it's rarely enough to ruin the experience.

Balance of the day is at leisure to explore independently (we would be happy to offer suggestions).

Overnight.  B  L D 

Morning at 08.00 am, accompanied by the Tour-guide / Driver, embark on a 4 hour excursion to visit one of Gheralta’s rock-hewn churches located on the top of one of the Gheralta ‚Pillars -  Abune Yemata (Guh), named for one of the nine saints who came to Ethiopia.

From the foot of the Gheralta mountain, a 30 minute guided walk brings you to the foot of the perpendicular rock mountain Church at Debre Tsion, which appear as though they are pillars touching the sky.

The Church is carved into the cliff face & is the most spectacular of all rock churches in Ethiopia - & the most challenging to access! The interior of the church is reached via a small fissure in the rock, and is noted for its beautiful frescoes. It is truly awesome that such great works of art have existed for centuries in such an unusual place - seemingly closer to the moon than to the earth.

Return the Lodge for lunch.

Shortly after, continue the sightseeing, driving though the beautiful countryside to see another historical site.

Reach Adigrat - Tigray’s 2^nd largest town situated on what was Ethiopia’s most important junction with Eritrea before the border was closed. Tradition attributes the origin of the name Adigrat, which means "the country of farmland", to the then popular Tigrayan chief Akhadom. Adigrat seems to have been under cultivation for a long time. It has a settlement history dating back at least to the 14^th century.

Pass by the small town of Negash, considered to be the earliest Muslim settlement in Africa where followers of Mohammed were given shelter by the Ethiopian king.

After much suffering at the hands of the Quraysh in Makkah, the Prophet commanded a small group of Muslims to make Hijrah (migration) to a safe place in the country of Abyssinia (original name of Ethiopia). Abyssinia at that time was ruled by a Christian King (who later on embraced Islam), famous for his mercy & equity, whose title was Negus. The Muslims were confident that they would receive protection & live in peace there.

In Rajab of the 5^th year of the Mission (614-615 CE), the first group of 12 men & 5 women emigrated to Abyssinia. The Quraysh pursued them to the port of Shuaibah by the Red Sea to capture them, but their vessels had left the shore. When the group reached Abyssinia, they heard the rumour that the whole tribe of the Quraysh had accepted Islam.

Based on this change, they eturned to their country. But on approaching Makkah, they learnt that it was a false rumour & the persecutions were going on unabated. Some of them decided to return to Abyssinia & the rest entered Makkah, seeking the protection of a few influential people. This is known as the first migration to Abyssinia. Later on, a bigger group of around 83 men & 18 women came to Abyssinia and this is called the second emigration

The Qureysh did not like the emigrations & the thought of peace enjoyed by the fugitives gave them no rest. They sent a delegation to Abyssinia led by Amr bin Aas (a non-Muslim at the time) with handsome presents for the king, his courtiers & the clergy. The delegation first met the chiefs & the priests and, by offering them presents, succeeded in winning the court officials to their side.

When the king gave audience to the Quraysh, Amr bin Aas said that the Muslims in Abyssinia were not refugees from persecution but were fugitives from justice & law and requested the king to extradite them to Makkah. The king, however, wanted to hear the other side of the story also before giving any judgment and after all deliberations, allowed the Muslims to stay there.

Negash is also known for having one of Africa's oldest mosques - Negash Amedin Mesgid & a 7^th century cemetery has been excavated inside the village boundaries, an area where a just ruler, Ashama ibn Abjar (King Negus) lived at the time of the Prophet

King Negus is buried within the masjid compound as are several Muslims who died there. Negash is, therefore, not only the burial place of the world’s first Muslim king but also the resting place of the bodies of the early Muslims of the world who were denied a home to be buried in because of their beliefs.

After spending time there, drive back to the lodge.

Balance of the day is at leisure.

Spend the afternoon at leisure relaxing, bird watching or exploring the grounds of the lodge & taking in the amazing vistas.

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Overnight.  B  L D 

Morning, depart for Axum driving through the interesting rock formations at Adigrat. Passing deep canyons & terraced barley fields, the road with its distant views of the Adwa Mountains where the Ethiopians defeated the Italians in 1896, is a contender for Ethiopia’s most beautiful drive.

Stop at the famous & oldest standing monastery in Ethiopia & possibly all of Africa (women are not allowed & you will only see it from the view point / road).

Debre Damo is one of Ethiopia's most important standing monasteries and is thought to date back to Aksumite times & the 6^th century reign of King Gebre Meskel.

The monastery’s formidable cliffs make for one of Ethiopia's most memorable experiences (for men, at least – women aren't allowed up). To reach the monastery, you will need to scale a sheer 15m cliff; there is a thick leather rope to help you climb & the monks will tie a second line around your torso & help pull you up. The whole experience takes some nerves & a good head for heights.

It was Abuna Aregawi, one of the most revered of the Nine Saints, who established Debre Damo monastery atop a sheer-sided amba (flat-topped mountain). It may seem like it would have been impossible for the first person to reach this island in the sky, but Abuna Aregawi had God on his side and God, knowing this was a fine place for a saint to find peace, made a giant snake lower its tail down the mountain, allowing Aregawi to clamber up it to the summit.

Thanks to a major restoration in 1948 it is in excellent condition, but still has a truly ancient feel with an almost prototypical example of Aksumite architecture & features. The same style of doors & windows found on Aksum’s stelae. Notable are the beams & ceiling, famously decorated with carved wooden panels depicting Ethiopian wild animals. Debre Damo has long been used as a safeguard for religious treasures & its collection includes some of Ethiopia’s oldest illuminated manuscripts.

The Monastery's location once allowed Aksumite monarchs to coop up excess male members of the royal family here, thus removing possible threats to their reign. Today it hosts some 150 monks, who are entirely self-sufficient. They grow their own crops, raise their own livestock (all male) & have water reservoirs hewn deep into the rock.

Continue driving & arrive in Axum (or Aksum) by late afternoon.

Check in at the hotel & relax as you have a busy night ahead. .

Aksum - the earliest Capital of Ethiopia, is a riddle waiting to be solved.

Did the Queen of Sheba really call the town’s dusty streets home? Does the very same Ark of the Covenant that holds Moses’ 10 Commandments reside in a small Aksum chapel? Are there still secret hordes of treasure hidden inside undiscovered tombs? And what exactly do those famous stelae signify?

It is often described as ‘the last of the great civilisations of Antiquity to be revealed to modern knowledge’. Yet even today, despite being one of the most important ancient sites in sub-Saharan Africa, Aksum has revealed only a tiny fraction of its secrets, and an exploration of its ruined tombs & palaces is sure to light a spark of excitement.

The original capital of the Kingdom of Aksum or Axum, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Africa. Around 100 - 940 AD, it was a trading nation in the area of Eritrea & Northern Ethiopia & was a major player in the commercial route between the Roman Empire & ancient India. 

The Aksumite rulers facilitated trade by minting their own Aksumite currency, the state established its hegemony over the declining Kingdom of Kush & regularly entered the politics of the kingdoms on the Arabian Peninsula, eventually extending its rule over the region with the conquest of the Himyarite Kingdom. Its ancient capital, also called Aksum, was in northern part of Ethiopia & the Kingdom used the name "Ethiopia" as early as the 4^th century. The Persian Prophet Mani regarded Axum as third of the four greatest powers of his time after Persia & Rome, with China being the fourth.

Aksum is more than just a collection of lifeless ruins, though. Proudly Tigrian, the town remains rural at heart & has a vibrancy, life & continuing national importance very rarely found at ancient sites. Pilgrims still journey here in the thousands to pay homage at its great churches and what they have no doubt is the magical Ark of the Covenant.

Late evening, accompanied by the Tour-guide, attend services in the Church of St. Mary Zion, on the eve of Hidar Tsion festival. 

The huge new Church of St Mary of Zion was built in the 1960s so women had a place to worship & it displays Haile Selassie’s usual hideous taste. Still it does cut a dramatic silhouette on the skyline. Beside it, a disproportionately tall bell tower, inspired by the stelae, sprouts heavenwards.

Finally, in between the old & new churches, is the real reason for most people’s devotion: a tiny, carefully guarded chapel that houses what most Ethiopians believe is the legendary Ark of the Covenant. Don’t think you can take a peek: just one specially chosen guardian has access to the Ark. Nobody else is allowed in the chapel & foreigners aren’t even allowed to approach the fence guarding the chapel grounds because previously some foreigners tried to scale the fence & rush into the chapel! No matter what you think of the legend, there’s no denying that to be in this church compound during a major service or festival, when thousands of pilgrims pour into the city, is an experience of pure devotion & faith that that will leave you spellbound.

Though religions have come & gone, Aksum remains a holy city throughout. Opposite the Northern Stelae Field, in a walled compound, lies the centre of the universe for Christian Ethiopians.

A church of some form or other has stood at this spot since the very earliest days of Ethiopian Christianity & it was God himself who, descending from heaven, indicated that a church should be built here, though the original church is long gone.

The rectangular old church (men only) at the southern end of the complex is a remarkable example of traditional architecture built by the Emperor Fasiladas, the founder of Gonder, in 1665. Inside there are fine original murals, including a painting of the Nine Saints.

Walk back to the hotel when you want to.

But, for an unforgettable experience, we suggest you make your way to the compound of the St Mary of Zion church again between 1.00 am & sunrise on the day of the festival and witness a sea of white-robed pilgrims curled up asleep. Standing among the slowly shifting sea are a few scattered priests reading by candlelight.

Today is the raison d’etre for this journey to the ‘cradle of civilisation’.  

Ethiopia is a country where religion plays a prominent role & the celebration of holy days is a way of life.  Virgin Mary is one of the most venerated of all religious figures in Ethiopia (about 33 days are annually dedicated to different celebrations in the commemoration of Mary).

Saint Mary of Zion claims to contain the original Ark of the Covenant. Reportedly, the Ark was moved to the Chapel of the Tablet adjacent to the old church because a divine ‘heat’ from the Tablets had cracked the stones of its previous sanctum. Emperor Haile Selassie’s wife, Empress Menen, paid for the construction of the new chapel.

According to tradition, the Ark came to Ethiopia with Menelik I after he visited his father King Solomon. Only the guardian monk may view the Ark, the guardian monk is appointed for life by his predecessor before the predecessor dies. If the incumbent guardian dies without naming a successor, then the monks of the monastery hold an election to select the new guardian. The guardian then is confined to the chapel of the Ark of the Covenant for the rest of his life, praying before it and offering incense.

The Feast of Hidar Tsion is associated with the presence of the Ark of the Covenant in Axum and the belief that the Ark itself is a symbol of her womb.

Mariam Zion (Hidar Zion- celebration of Saint Mary of Axum) is one of the main festivals celebrated annually in Axum to venerate St. Mary & especially to honor the believed existence of the Ark of the Covenant in St. Mary Church of Axum, the first to be built in Ethiopia.

This is one of Ethiopia’s largest festivals & the celebration starts from the eve of the actual festival date. In the days leading up to the event in November, thousands of pilgrims arrive from all over Ethiopia & from all over the World and sleepy Aksum the “sacred city of the Ethiopians.” truly awakens. Faithful & pilgrims from places as far as Addis Ababa gather to celebrate the festivities.

Celebrations start in front of the Northern Stelae Field, where the monarchs of the Orthodox Church line the steps & watch performers in the street below.

You will be an observer at one of the most joyous annual pilgrimages in Axum as this remarkable event is marked by processions of chanting priests beating the drums & parishioners dressed in colorful robes with the ubiquitous umbrellas.

Spend as much time as you want, walking along the procession.

Later in the afternoon at 02.00 pm, meet the Tour-guide again & proceed to discover Axum on a 4 hour sightseeing.  

Visit Archaeological Museum of Aksum containing an impressive haul of treasure, including an unsurpassed collection of former Ethiopian rulers’ crowns and a dazzling display of gold & silver chalices, crosses, jewellery & even drums. It clearly demonstrates the immense wealth of the Church.

Then, move to the 6^th century palace & tombs of King Kaleb & his son, King Gebre Meskel.

Although the twin tombs’ architecture resembles the Tomb of the False Door, they show more sophistication, using irregular-shaped, self-locking stones that don’t require iron clamps. The tomb consists of one chamber & five rooms, with one boasting an exceptionally finely carved portal leading into it. Inside that room are three sarcophagi, one adorned with a cross similar to Christian crosses found on Aksumite coins. This points toward an age around the 6^th century, which, as seldom happens, corresponds with local tradition

Like Meskel’s tomb, King Kaleb’s is accessed via a long straight stairway. Inside you’ll notice the stones are larger, more angular and less precisely joined. Of those who attribute the making of the tomb to Kaleb, few accept that he was actually buried here. The common theory is that his body lies at Abba Pentalewon Monastery, where he lived after abdicating his throne. The tomb’s unfinished state fits with the theory. Local rumour has it that there’s a secret tunnel leading from here to the Red Sea.

Next, you will see Dungur Palace.

The structure at Dungur is popularly known as Queen of Sheba’s Palace, though historians think it is the mansion of a nobleman. It’s fully excavated & though in places rather clumsily restored, you can make out enough of the 44-room layout to make a visit interesting. Nobody is certain of the complex’s age, but it probably dates to around the 6^th century AD.

It has small undressed stones & walls recessed at intervals and unusually tapering with height. The well-preserved flagstone floor is thought to have belonged to a throne room. The palace also contains hidden treasure rooms, a private bathing area & a kitchen, where a large brick oven can still be seen. The stairwells suggest the existence of at least one upper storey.

Last point will be Queen of Sheba’s Bath.

Despite the colourful legends, this large reservoir wasn’t where Sheba played with her rubber duck. It was an important reservoir rather than a swimming pool or gargantuan bath. Nobody is totally sure of its age, but it’s certainly been used as a water source for millennia & its large size is even more impressive considering it is hewn out of solid rock. It is also known as Mai Shum, which translates to ‘Chief’s Water’.

The tour comes to an end & you return to the hotel.

Balance of the evening is at leisure (we would be happy to offer suggestions).

Morning, depart for Debark, the entry point for venturing to Simien Mountains, one of Africa’s most beautiful ranges, passing through the beautiful scenery of the Tekeze Valley & views of the cliffs of Simien Mountain.

No matter how you look at them, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Simien Mountains is awesome. This massive plateau, riven with gullies & pinnacles, offers tough but immensely rewarding trekking along the ridge that falls sheer to the plains far below. High up in the Simien Mountains, we look down on landscapes similar to those of the Grand Canyon (only greener!) - a high plateau that gives way to deep, sloping valleys. Simien Mountains are often called God's playground because of their unique formations.

Simien Mountains National Park is an exotic setting with unique wildlife & breath-taking views on a landscape shaped by nature & traditional agriculture.

The main attraction of the Simien Mountains National Park is its biosphere: the steep cliffs & the cool climate at the altitude of the Erica tree line (3600 - 4000m) have created conditions that are appropriate for the survival of an ibex species endemic to the Simien Mountains.

57 tree species & a variety of herbaceous plants, 22 large, 13 small mammals & about 180 bird species have been recorded. Despite the severe restriction of their habitat over the last centuries, several hundred animals have survived up to the present.

Apart from the Walya ibex, many other animal species are found in the Park, for example the endemic Simien fox or Ethiopian wolf, several birds of prey, the endemic Gelada baboon, the Klippspringer & Menelik's bushbuck.

It is not just the scenery (& altitude) that will leave you speechless, but also the excitement of sitting among a group of gelada baboons or watching magnificent Walya ibex joust on rock ledges.

Immediately on arrival, proceed for a visit to the western escarpments where you will encounter troops of the endemic Gelada baboons (found only in Ethiopia). - the only grass-eating baboons left in the world. They are often referred to as the bleeding heart baboon or the lion monkey. Their coat is shaggy resembling a lion whilst their chest has a marked red heart or patch.

After spending time there, continue on to a very special traditional style Eco-lodge, with wonderful views from the top.

Check-in & relax.

Balance of the day is at leisure.

Overnight.  B L D                 

Morning, enjoy another Nature Walk in the Park, watching the antics of Gelada Baboons troops, different birds & plants at close distances.

Trekking in the National Park offers a unique combination of animals & incredible landscapes. The scenery is dramatic in the extreme, with stomach-turning cliffs dropping away & birds of prey soaring on the thermals above them. Curiously-shaped rock pinnacles pierce the horizon & waterfall-carved valleys stretch up to grassy plains spotted with palms & cacti. It’s with good reason that this region of Ethiopia is known as the Roof of Africa, as most of the hike will be at an altitude of 3,000 - 4,000 metres. The solitude in such a pristine natural environment is wonderful, especially given the endless seas of over-populated agricultural land which has taken over 95% of the country. Nature or wildlife lovers are richly rewarded for their efforts in reaching the “Roof”.

Enjoy a picnic lunch before driving back to the lodge.

Check-out & depart for Gondar - the royal & ancient capital of Ethiopia, passing through the beautiful landscapes at Amba Ghiorgis & Kossoye. and a patchwork quilt landscape of barley, tef, beans & wheat fields.

Enroute, stop at the abandoned Jewish (Falasha) village of Wolleka, once home to Ethiopian Jews known for their craftsmanship, now a kitschy visitors’ spot, but the current residents proudly preserve its Jewish heritage. “Wolleka Falasha Jewish Village,” the hand-painted sign with a brightly painted Star of David proclaims.

A few hundred thriving Jews lived in this village for generations, until they left in the 1980s & early 90s & today none remain. They were airlifted to Israel during Operation Moses in 1984. Others made their way to Addis Ababa & other cities.

After the adoption of Christianity as the state religion, Ethiopia’s Jews, called “Falashas” or “strangers,” were typically not allowed to own land or property and had their land confiscated for refusing to convert. To survive, many became skilled craftspeople working with pottery, blacksmithing, embroidery, cloth & basket weaving. Research suggests Falashas may have provided the labour for the construction and decoration of Gonder’s castles.

Sadly, the pottery for which they were once famous has mostly degenerated into half-hearted art, though the figurine trinkets do make cool souvenirs. Luckily, the NGO Project Ploughshare Women’s Crafts Training Center is helping disadvantaged women rekindle this craft, along with traditional Amhara weaving & basketry. You can interact with the women working there & buy the high-quality pottery every day.

Interestingly, the current residents have chosen to celebrate the village’s Jewish roots rather than let them fade into history. There are a few original houses with interesting artwork on their fronts & a small synagogue.  

One family keeps the keys to the old synagogue, a round, squat building with turquoise Stars of David painted on the mud walls outside. But the interior’s intricate paint job is still preserved, a mosaic of natural paints made from red earth, ash, and water.

Arrive by late evening & Check-in at the hotel.

It is not what Gondar is, but what Gondar was that’s so enthralling. The city lies in a bowl of hills where tall trees shelter tin-roofed stone houses, but rising above these & standing proud through the centuries, are the walls of castles bathed in blood & painted in the pomp of royalty. It is often called the 'Camelot of Africa', a description that does the royal city a disservice: Camelot is legend, whereas Gondar is reality.

Emperor Fasilidas is believed to have moved his royal camp & founded Gondar as his imperial seat in 1636 and the city was both the capital & a great commercial center from the 17^th - mid 19^th century. 

It was the home of many emperors & princesses who led the country from the 12^th century to the last decade of the 20^th century. It served as the capital of both the Ethiopian Empire & the subsequent Begemder Province. The city holds the remains of several medieval castles rising above a landscape of tin-roofed stone houses,

The Royal Court developed into a compound called Fasil Ghebbi (the Royal Enclosure), which consists of six major building complexes & is surrounded by a 900m long wall. In this area alone, there are around twenty different palaces & royal buildings as well as thirty churches.

Surrounded by fertile land with rich sources of gold, civet & ivory and lying at the crossroads of 3 major trading caravan routes, it is easy to understand why Emperor Fasiladas (reigned 1632 - 67) made Gondar his capital in 1636.

To the northeast is Massawa with access to the Red Sea, and to the northwest, lies Sudan & Egypt.

At the time of Fasiladas’ death, Gondar’s population already exceeded 65,000 & its wealth & splendour had become legendary. Drifting through the old palaces, banqueting halls & former gardens, it is not difficult to imagine the courtly pageantry, ceremony & intrigue that went on here.

The city flourished as a capital for well over a century before infighting severely weakened the kingdom. In the 1880s what remained of Gondar was extensively looted by the Sudanese Dervishes. Despite this, & further damage sustained by British bombs during the liberation campaign of 1941, much of Gondar remains intact.

Although Gondar is fairly spread out, it is still a great place to navigate on foot. The Italian-built piazza marks the centre of town and packs in most shops & services travellers need.

Balance of the day is at leisure.

Overnight.  B L D  

Morning, meet the Tour-guide / Driver at 08.00 am & proceed for a 4 hour sightseeing of this ancient city. You will visit the various ruined buildings including the remains of a bathing pool.

First stop will be the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the imperial Castle Compound of Gondar. See the1640 Fasilides Castle - home of King Fasilides & his ‘Bath’ used today for the religious ceremony of Timkat (Epiphany) every January. On this major festive occasion, a nearby river is diverted to fill an area the size of a small swimming pool & Worshippers plunge into the cold water in a re-enactment of the baptism of Christ in the River Jordan. 

Visit Iyasu Palace - home of Emperor Iyasu I. An earthquake & bombings by the British destroyed its once ornate & lavish interior, but the structure itself remains mostly intact & is the largest in the area; the 17^th century AD Church of Quskuam Mariam; the residence of Empress Mintwab.

Then it is on to the 17^th century Debre Birhan Selassie Church, a short distance away.

One of the country's famous churches, it seems more like a fortress than a church at first glance. This is because the local churches were once vulnerable to attacks by the Sudanese. Churches like this were once quite common in the area, but this is the only church to survive the Sudanese attacks, making it even more of a treasure. There are twelve towers guarding this church, each representing one of the twelve apostles. Marvel at the amazing intricately painted frescoes of more than 80 winged angels on the ceiling & walls.

After lunch, leave for Bahir Dar - the capital of the Amhara region, is the third largest city in Ethiopia inhabited by the Amhara people, the country's ethnically & geographically second ethnic largest group

Arrive by evening & Check-in at the hotel.

Bahir Dar is one of Ethiopia's most attractive towns & some people like to describe Bahir Dar as the Ethiopian Riviera. The moniker may sound strange, but when you pull into town & see the wide streets shaded by palm trees & sweeping views across Lake Tana’s shimmering blue waters, you will understand. More than a block back from the shore, however, Bahir Dar is just another busy Ethiopian city.

Clean & well-maintained by African city standards, it got somewhat popular with national tourists as the lake & easy climate even made it the emperor's choice for his summer residence.  In the 16^th & 17^th centuries, various temporary Ethiopian capitals were established in the vicinity of Lake Tana. It was here that the Jesuits attempted, with disastrous consequences, to impose Catholicism on the Ethiopian people. One moss-covered Jesuit building, which was built by the well-known Spanish missionary Pedro Paez, can still be seen today in the compound of St George’s monastery

Being a relatively flat city with wide streets, Bahir Dar is an excellent city for cycling, and bikes can be rented at various locations in the city. There are numerous places to play pool, enjoy draft beer in garden style bars and have fresh fruit juices and the choice from big menus in plenty of cafés and restaurants.

Bahir Dar makes a pleasant base to explore the Blue Nile falls and the island monasteries of Lake Tana.

Balance of the evening is at leisure (we would be happy to offer suggestions). Tonight, you may join the locals in one of their cultural bars to see some traditional music & dance - you may even get the chance to try out some local dances yourself. 

Morning, meet the Tour-guide in the Lobby at 08.00 pm & proceed for a 8 hour visit to the Blue Nile Falls, also known as Tis Abay, mean 'smoking water' in Amharic.

You will drive through the countryside to the village of Tis Abay & from there, walk to the Falls.

Smaller than Victoria Falls, but amazingly scenic, the Blue Nile Falls as James Bruce - the 18^th century Scottish traveler described it: "A magnificent sight that ages added to the greatest length of human life, would not efface or eradicate from my memory”

The Blue Nile Falls start as a gentle river flowing 5,223 km north of the Mediterranean Sea before joining the impressive falls. The waterfall itself is around 150ft high & half a mile wide, which is just spectacular to witness. Surrounded by immense natural beauty, the falls attract parrots, bee-eaters, white throated seedeaters & vervet monkeys, just to name a few. 

Spend some time enjoying the scenery before embarking on a boat trip on Ethiopia’s largest water body - Lake Tana (3,600 Sq. Km) to visit the island Monasteries where you can experience a great calmness.

The 'boatman' will also take you to the place where the river flows out of the Lake. Here, you have a high probability of spotting hippos

Lake Tana is the largest lake in Ethiopia, measuring approximately 84 km long & 66 km wide, is also the source of the Blue Nile. The lake contains 37 islands but their visibility varies according to seasonal water fluctuations, which are regulated to measure inflow to the Blue Nile Falls.

The islands accommodate some of the world's oldest Churches & about 20 Monasteries, which are used to store religious artifacts due to their remote location. In some of these monasteries, women are not allowed to enter. Be cautious & aware of the traditions and rules of the Ethiopian Orthodox church when you visit (but don’t worry, we are here to guide you accordingly).

Among others, the 14^th century Ura-Kidane Mihret is the largest & most impressive monastery on the peninsula, situated near one of the prettiest & most secluded inlets in the area, which you will visit.

You will also have the opportunity to visit Azwa Mariam, Mehal Zege, Kibran Gabriel, Entos Eyesus  & guess just how far back Christianity goes in this region Christianity has a long history in Ethiopia, and the whole ancient culture, architecture & art surrounding it, is fascinating..

Come back to the shore to Mango Park to sit & watch the pelicans. You will see the local boatmen feeding the pelicans in front of the lakeside "promenade" just before sunset.

Return to the hotel.

Balance of the evening is at leisure (we would be happy to offer suggestions).

Very early in the morning, depart for Lalibela,, driving on the scenic Debre-Tabor road through quaint tribal villages. You will be passing through the beautiful landscape around Nefas Mewcha & Gashena wetlands & Wereta where you will see some interesting birdlife.

On arrival by late afternoon, Check-in & relax.

The small rural town of Lalibela with its extraordinary monolithic churches, built during the reign of 12^th century King Lalibela, is known around the world & is a pilgrimage site for Coptic Christians.   

When the King’s rivals began to increase in power, Lalibela sought the support of the powerful Ethiopian Orthodox Church by building the churches in this small town.

Lalibela is history & mystery frozen in stone, its soul alive with the rites & awe of Christianity at its most ancient & unbending. No matter what you have heard about Lalibela, no matter how many pictures you have seen of its breathtaking rock-hewn churches, nothing can prepare you for the reality of seeing it for yourself. It is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but truly a world wonder.

Lalibela is a high place of Ethiopian Christianity, still today a place of pilgrimage & devotion. Originally known as Roha, this rural town is known around the world for its monolithic rock hewn churches, which were built during the reign of 12^th century King Gebre Mesqel Lalibela, who commissioned these extraordinary churches. When his rivals began to increase in power, Lalibela sought the support of the powerful Ethiopian Orthodox Church by building the churches in this small town.

King Lalibela's sought to recreate the holy city of New Jerusalem for those who could not make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land (& to create a sacred city to rival powerful Aksum, with its Ark of the Covenant). According to some reports, he had been to the Holy Land himself & was inspired by what he saw. But the king made no attempt to copy the churches of the Holy Land; in fact, Lalibela's sacred architecture could not be more unique.

To this day, some, not all, of Lalibela’s features remain similar to those of Jerusalem, such as The Tomb of Adam, the Jordan river & Calvary. But the king made no attempt to copy all the churches of the Holy Land; in fact, Lalibela's sacred architecture could not be more unique.

Spending a night vigil here during one of the big religious festivals, when white-robed pilgrims in their hundreds crowd the courtyards of the churches, is to witness Christianity in its most raw & powerful form.

With its cobblestone streets, distant views, good food & lack of cars, the town itself is a pleasant surprise.

Balance of the day is at leisure (we would be happy to offer suggestions & make arrangements, if).

Stroll around town, catch up on postcards, or possibly visit some locals in their homes (you may get invited home for a "coffee ceremony", where the beans are roasted, pulverized & the most delicious coffee in the world is made before your eyes!).

Overnight.  B L D  

Morning, meet the Tour-guide at 08.00 am & proceed for a full day 8 hour visit to the other churches.

The churches of Lalibela were not constructed - they were excavated. Each church was created by first carving out a wide trench on all four sides of the rock, then painstakingly chiseling out the interior. The largest church is 40 feet high & the labor required to complete such a task with only hammers & chisels would have been astounding.

Popular legend has it that angels came every night to pick up where the workmen had left off. One of the churches, Bet Maryam, contains a stone pillar on which King Lalibela wrote the secrets of the buildings' construction. It is covered with old cloths and only the priests may look on it.

King Lalibela's project for gaining the church's favor had two unexpected results: the creation of a holy place of unparalleled beauty & the king's conversion to a religious life. After laboring for 20 years, he abdicated his throne to become a hermit, living in a cave and eating only roots & vegetables. To this day, Ethiopian Christians regard King Lalibela as one of their greatest saints.

There are 11 UNESCO World Heritage listed churches, assembled in three groups.

Visit the Western section today. The churches are still all in use today as a place of worship and contain many old treasures: beautiful coloured frescoes, ancient books, and processional crosses. Prepare to be amazed!

See Bet Giyorgis, a cross-shaped church entirely carved out of a giant rock, said to be the most finely executed & best preserved church. This is the most prominently featured church on the Lalibela postcards.

Then, you will visit the Northern Group today. Get up on a mule & ride to the hill top to see the 13^th century semi monolithic Church of Asheton Mariam In the Northern Group today Getting to the top of the hill rewards you with great & unforgettable scenery of the area.

See Bet Medhane Alem - home to the Lalibela Cross & believed to be the largest monolithic church in the world, probably a copy of St Mary of Zion in Aksum. It is linked to Bet Maryam (possibly the oldest of the churches), Bet Golgotha (known for its art & said to contain the tomb of King Lalibela), the Selassie Chapel & the Tomb of Adam.

Continue on to the Eastern Group.

Amanuel (possibly the former royal chapel), Bet Merkorios (which may be a former prison), Bet Abba Libanos & Bet Gabriel-Rufael (possibly a former royal palace) are linked to a holy bakery. The best way to access this group is to enter via Bet Gabriel-Rufael, then via a dark trench next to the church you will access Bet Merkorios, Amanuel and Abba Libanos.

The churches have been in continuous use since they were built in the 12^th century. The first Europeans to see these extraordinary holy sites were Portuguese explorers in the 1520s, one of whom noted in his journal that the sights were so fantastic, he expected readers of his descriptions would accuse him of lying.

The tour comes to an end & you return to the hotel.

Balance of the evening is at leisure (we would be happy to offer suggestions).

Early morning, Check-out & drive out of town to see the cave church of Neakutoleab

The Monastery Church of Neakutoleab was originally built inside a natural cave by King Lalibela in the 12^th century. Though the original structure was destroyed by Muslims in the 16^th century, the church was rebuilt in 1936 using local limestone & red rock. While the church is newish, the implements used in services that are still performed every Sunday are ancient.

Among the treasured pieces kept at the Monastery Church are an 800 year old Orthodox bronze cross & censer. Also among the treasures is the rare & irreplaceable 500 year old “Miracle of St. Mary” manuscript that sits on a stand beneath the cave’s overhang, exposed to the elements each & every day.

In time, drive to Lalibela Airport for your flight back to Addis.

Arrive in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s sprawling capital in the highlands bordering the Great Rift Valley & the country’s commercial & cultural hub.  

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? - Addis Ababa Bole International Airport, subsequent to Immigration & Customs, you will welcomed by The Journeys representative who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the hotel, help you settle in & also provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area as well as discuss the program for the next few days.

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes of waiting, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer.  Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel.

Reach the hotel & Check-in & freshen up.

Immediately, meet the Tour-guide & embark on a 4 hour sightseeing tour to explore the vibrant neighborhoods & historic landmarks of Addis Ababa.

Despite its size, Addis retains a small-town feel with lively markets, donkey carts hurrying down main streets and traditional coffee shops.

See the richly decorated interior of Holy Trinity Cathedral which commemorates the patriots who fought the Italian aggression in the 1930s, then trace Ethiopia’s long history through the Museum of Ethiopia - rated one of the best sub-Saharan museums - which gives you a good introduction to Ethiopian history & culture, by showcasing an extensive collection of Ethiopian antiquities. There is also a replica of the 3.5 million year old skull of "Lucy" or Dinknesh (Amharic for ‘wonderful’), whose discovery made Ethiopia the Cradle of Mankind.

Explore Haile Selassie’s former palace, now the fascinating Ethnological Museum & go deep into the traditions of Ethiopia’s diverse communities as you view cultural materials from over 80 ethnic groups of the region. Drive up to the Entoto hills from where we get a panoramic view of the city.

Shortly, get ready for another exciting experience.

An Ethiopia visit is not really complete without an authentic Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony & Cuisine experience.

Early evening, you will be transferred to the comfortable, clean ‘home’ of Daniel & Tigist, in the calm & green suburbs of Addis.

They are from the Oromia region of Ethiopia but love to experiment & cook fusion dishes from around the country. Tigist learned to cook helping her mother around the house as a child & ran her own kitchen after marrying Daniel. The cosmopolitan professional couple enjoys discussing diverse subjects from food & history to politics. Daniel, a tourism professional, has a Master's degree in Social Anthropology. Their kids also speak English & may join in the discussions.

The experience commences with visit to the Keta / Asco market, 15 minutes away from their home. Here, you will be introduced to local ingredients that you will use in your cooking class later. The local Market is known for its spices, cereals, vegetables & other industrial materials. While the market opens on all days, Saturdays are especially interesting for visitors as all the locals shop today & it offers a kaleidoscope of the various cultures & tribes prevalent here.

The cooking class will take place in their home kitchen. Ethiopian cuisine is comprised of a variety of spices in its wots (stews) & tibs (curry), making the cuisine hot & piquant.

Tigist will show you how to make a traditional Ethiopian dish as well as how to pour & cook the perfect Injera (traditional fermented bread). You might learn to make Shiro (chickpea or broad bean stew) or Tibs (stir-fried meat with vegetables & spices).

And finally, it is time to ‘reap what you sow’ (eating what you just cooked).

You will eat as Ethiopians do, from communal plates lined with Injera which acts like an edible plate with other dishes piled on top. Teff flour is used to make the soft, spongy injera bread, which is perfect to mop up the delicious juices & gravies that soak through it. The diners tear off into morsels to eat with hands (fork & spoon on special request only) & even feed each other in a gesture called gursha that is meant to strengthen bonds.

(If you are interested in learning to make a ‘specific’ or additional dish, they will be happy to oblige although it will extend the cooking time).

And now comes the grand finale that is synonymous with Ethiopian heritage.

The rituals & ceremony around certain types of foods are very prevalent all over the world. In some places, it isn’t so much as the food itself than it is about the ritual & ceremony around the preparation & serving.

An invitation to attend a coffee ceremony is considered a mark of friendship or respect & is an excellent example of Ethiopian hospitality.

The traditional ‘buna’ Coffee Ceremony is an important part of Ethiopian culture & involves roasting coffee beans, preparing boiled coffee in a vessel akin to the ibriks used to make Turkish coffee & finally ‘drinking’.

Ethiopia is the largest coffee producer in Africa & the 5^th largest producer in the world. Coffee industry is a major part of the GDP. But, there is one distinction that makes Ethiopia different from the other major producers like Kenya & Colombia. While their internal consumption is 3% & 14% respectively, Ethiopians drink 50% of their production. Proving that Ethiopians take their coffee extremely seriously.

Coffee isn’t just Ethiopia’s national drink. It is had throughout the day but never consumed alone. Unlike in other cosmopolitan cities of the world, where ‘coffee-to-go’ is almost a norm these days, in Ethiopia every meeting includes coffee & coffee always requires company.

It is more than just a cup of coffee for Ethiopians. It is a cultural celebration of an Ethiopian staple - an integral part of the social & cultural life in the country.

‘Buna tetu’ which translates to ‘come drink coffee’ is a famous communal tradition in Ethiopia. Families will send children to knock on their neighbours’ homes to invite them to come share some coffee. This bonding nature of Ethiopians is a key thread in the fabric of its society.

The coffee brewing has many special elements. The Ceremony involves processing the raw, unwashed coffee beans into finished cups of brewed coffee. Before this event, the dining room undergoes some preparatory rites for the ritual. Firstly, the coffee cups are all arranged on a table along with snacks. Freshly cut grass is displayed on both the floor & the table. And sweet incense is burnt as a way to clarify the space.

Preparing a traditional cup of coffee or buna can take more than an hour & actually drinking it can be longer, especially during festivities & celebrations. Drinking coffee is sensory experience in Ethiopia unlike any other.

The process begins with washing & roasting the beans on an iron pan called mitad. The person preparing the beans is typically dressed in the traditional Ethiopian clothes called habesaha semis. When the coffee beans are roasted, the mitad is taken to the guests so that they can inhale & smell the roasting beans. This is a huge part of the Ethiopian Coffee sensory experience.

The coffee beans are then brewed in a traditional mortar before putting them in a jebena (a traditional clay pot made specifically for preparing coffee comes in various shapes & sizes and hold essential value in every Ethiopian household)  in which the water has already been set to boil.  Jebena’s have one, two or three spouts depending on the region where they are made & used.

Once coffee beans have been added to the simmering water, it is left to steep in the jebena. When the coffee foam discharges from the top hole of the jebena, it is removed from the heat & left to allow all the solid coffee particles to settle at the bottom of the pot. Once all the coffee cups are gathered on the rekebot (coffee platter), coffee is poured into the first cup. This first cup is culturally not for consumption but to confirm the murky liquid is free of all coffee grind.

The drinking ceremony can finally begin and coffee is offered with multiple seasoning options including sugar, salt, or rue. Often coffee will be accompanied by traditional Ethiopian snacks.

Traditional cup of Ethiopian coffee served with aromatic incense, usually frankincense & myrrh. The incense is ignited by a hot coal to produce smoke that is said to carry away any bad spirits. Conversations start flowing freely as sweet incense dissipates in the room. From abol - the first cup of coffee, to tona - the second cup & finally to bereka - the last cup of coffee, the jebena is refilled until the settles coffee bits squeeze out their very last taste & guests are finally satisfied.

It is considered impolite to leave the ceremony without consuming at least 3 cups. Ethiopians believe that your spirit transforms when you complete all 3 rounds. Of course, you are free to take as many cups as you wish afterward.

It is clear that the coffee culture in Ethiopia is as much of a ritual as it is about drinking that cup of coffee - a great way to slow down & engage with your friends & neighbors.

The 4 hour Cooking experience, that we are sure will stay with you for a long time, comes to an end & you are ready to depart for the hotel.

Reach the hotel around 10.30 pm.

Overnight.  B  L D

Alas, like all good things, the wonderful experience comes to an end. Time to say good-bye to enchanting Ethiopia & go home. But, we sure hope that you may want to discover a bit more of “Cradle of Mankind” with its amazing history, wonderful cultures, friendly faces & stunning landscapes, on your next visit. 

Check-out of the hotel by 12:00 noon (if the departure time is later in the evening, we will request the hotel to allow the use of the hotel facilities & leave the luggage at the Bell Desk if you have the time to walk out). 

In time, you will be met by a Journeys Rep, who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to Terminal? - Addis Ababa Bole International Airport for the flight back home.  B

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